Topic: NanoFury Project - Open Source Design - page 6. (Read 75414 times)
Don't you have to program them or something?
In the last few days I build 2 NF1's.
Unfortunattely they are not recognized by windows/minepeon.
They don't beep when plugged in, and don't show up in devicemanager.
So I double checked, triple checked the board and there are no bridges, misplaced polar components etc...
It is identical to the schematic I used and pictures I find on the internet.
I think it is unlikely that both MCP2210's are not working as they should.
Also when building I wore a anti-static wrist band just in case, so I am assuming nothing is fryed by ESD in the process.
The process of reflowing may not be ideal but it was alright I think, I used a baking device that looks something like this:
http://s.s-bol.com/imgbase0/imagebase/large/FC/9/3/0/8/9000000011158039.jpg
The max temperature is 215 C, which apparently is enough to melt the tin. (yes the joints looks shiny)
I have no idea why the miners are not working, so comments/criticism are very welcome.
Unfortunattely they are not recognized by windows/minepeon.
They don't beep when plugged in, and don't show up in devicemanager.
So I double checked, triple checked the board and there are no bridges, misplaced polar components etc...
It is identical to the schematic I used and pictures I find on the internet.
I think it is unlikely that both MCP2210's are not working as they should.
Also when building I wore a anti-static wrist band just in case, so I am assuming nothing is fryed by ESD in the process.
The process of reflowing may not be ideal but it was alright I think, I used a baking device that looks something like this:
http://s.s-bol.com/imgbase0/imagebase/large/FC/9/3/0/8/9000000011158039.jpg
The max temperature is 215 C, which apparently is enough to melt the tin. (yes the joints looks shiny)
I have no idea why the miners are not working, so comments/criticism are very welcome.
EDIT: no occurence of "generic NFU name" in any file... Searched by notepad++ in all files...
It's just updated hours ago. I guess it's not ready for next rev. package. You should go to github to get the latest source.
I've added support for NF2 and NF6 into cgminer git master branch.
EDIT: no occurence of "generic NFU name" in any file... Searched by notepad++ in all files...
It's just updated hours ago. I guess it's not ready for next rev. package. You should go to github to get the latest source.
I've added support for NF2 and NF6 into cgminer git master branch.
....
you would see also this in the source code:
In what file? I get 0 results when try to find in cgminer-4.3.3 repository.you would see also this in the source code:
/* Identify number of chips, and use it in device name if it can fit
* into 3 chars, otherwise use generic NFU name. */
val = sscanf(bitfury->usbdev->prod_string, "NanoFury NF%u ", &info->chips);
https://github.com/ckolivas/cgminer/search?q=generic+NFU+name&ref=cmdform
Code:
if (opt_debug) {
struct gpio_pin gp;
mcp2210_get_gpio_pindirs(bitfury, &gp);EDIT: no occurence of "generic NFU name" in any file... Searched by notepad++ in all files...
It's just updated hours ago. I guess it's not ready for next rev. package. You should go to github to get the latest source.
....
you would see also this in the source code:
In what file? I get 0 results when try to find in cgminer-4.3.3 repository.you would see also this in the source code:
/* Identify number of chips, and use it in device name if it can fit
* into 3 chars, otherwise use generic NFU name. */
val = sscanf(bitfury->usbdev->prod_string, "NanoFury NF%u ", &info->chips);
https://github.com/ckolivas/cgminer/search?q=generic+NFU+name&ref=cmdform
Code:
if (opt_debug) {
struct gpio_pin gp;
mcp2210_get_gpio_pindirs(bitfury, &gp);EDIT: no occurence of "generic NFU name" in any file... Searched by notepad++ in all files...
....
you would see also this in the source code:
In what file? I get 0 results when try to find in cgminer-4.3.3 repository.you would see also this in the source code:
/* Identify number of chips, and use it in device name if it can fit
* into 3 chars, otherwise use generic NFU name. */
val = sscanf(bitfury->usbdev->prod_string, "NanoFury NF%u ", &info->chips);
https://github.com/ckolivas/cgminer/search?q=generic+NFU+name&ref=cmdform
....
you would see also this in the source code:
In what file? I get 0 results when try to find in cgminer-4.3.3 repository. you would see also this in the source code:
/* Identify number of chips, and use it in device name if it can fit
* into 3 chars, otherwise use generic NFU name. */
val = sscanf(bitfury->usbdev->prod_string, "NanoFury NF%u ", &info->chips);
I think it is unlikely, but suppose both my MCP2210's are faulty, how could I measure this?
This board hashes at 4.4-4.6 GHs with 5W consumption?
I've added support for NF2 and NF6 into cgminer git master branch. I'm not getting much love out of the NF6 just yet but they may well need so much power that even a regular USB3 port is not enough. The NF2s are behaving very nicely. This is at --nfu-bits 54:
Code:
14: NF2 00001099: | 4.670G / 4.655Gh/s WU: 65.2/m
23: NF2 00000753: | 4.447G / 4.509Gh/s WU: 63.6/m
NFU??
I meant the identity was changed. that's great. not for NF1 only, but for MCP2210 based devices... great thing
I've added support for NF2 and NF6 into cgminer git master branch. I'm not getting much love out of the NF6 just yet but they may well need so much power that even a regular USB3 port is not enough. The NF2s are behaving very nicely. This is at --nfu-bits 54:
Code:
14: NF2 00001099: | 4.670G / 4.655Gh/s WU: 65.2/m
23: NF2 00000753: | 4.447G / 4.509Gh/s WU: 63.6/m
NFU??
Heh
Fun with abbreviations!Con - I suspect he wasn't sure what the "--nfu-bits 54" part meant - which is the osc6 bits, and the "nfu..." prefix is what is used in the source code - e.g. as in this line:
mcp->value.pin[NFU_PIN_PWR_EN0] = MCP2210_GPIO_PIN_LOW;
you would see also this in the source code:
/* Identify number of chips, and use it in device name if it can fit
* into 3 chars, otherwise use generic NFU name. */
val = sscanf(bitfury->usbdev->prod_string, "NanoFury NF%u ", &info->chips);
I've added support for NF2 and NF6 into cgminer git master branch. I'm not getting much love out of the NF6 just yet but they may well need so much power that even a regular USB3 port is not enough. The NF2s are behaving very nicely. This is at --nfu-bits 54:
Code:
14: NF2 00001099: | 4.670G / 4.655Gh/s WU: 65.2/m
23: NF2 00000753: | 4.447G / 4.509Gh/s WU: 63.6/m
NFU??
I've added support for NF2 and NF6 into cgminer git master branch. I'm not getting much love out of the NF6 just yet but they may well need so much power that even a regular USB3 port is not enough. The NF2s are behaving very nicely. This is at --nfu-bits 54:
Code:
14: NF2 00001099: | 4.670G / 4.655Gh/s WU: 65.2/m
23: NF2 00000753: | 4.447G / 4.509Gh/s WU: 63.6/m
NFU??
I've added support for NF2 and NF6 into cgminer git master branch. I'm not getting much love out of the NF6 just yet but they may well need so much power that even a regular USB3 port is not enough. The NF2s are behaving very nicely. This is at --nfu-bits 54:
Code:
14: NF2 00001099: | 4.670G / 4.655Gh/s WU: 65.2/m
23: NF2 00000753: | 4.447G / 4.509Gh/s WU: 63.6/m
Hmm, getting kind of annoying.
I Didn't find anything that was wrong so I soldered a whole new nanofury.
It looks identical to the old one but I am seeing some improvements in soldering. No bridges as far as I can see
But unfortunattely the miner is not detected by windows/raspberry.
I am hearing no sound when plugging it in, and led is not on.( I don't know if the led should be on).
I Didn't find anything that was wrong so I soldered a whole new nanofury.
It looks identical to the old one but I am seeing some improvements in soldering. No bridges as far as I can see
But unfortunattely the miner is not detected by windows/raspberry.
I am hearing no sound when plugging it in, and led is not on.( I don't know if the led should be on).
Led is not normally on. Until software is running
Hmm, getting kind of annoying.
I Didn't find anything that was wrong so I soldered a whole new nanofury.
It looks identical to the old one but I am seeing some improvements in soldering. No bridges as far as I can see
But unfortunattely the miner is not detected by windows/raspberry.
I am hearing no sound when plugging it in, and led is not on.( I don't know if the led should be on).
I Didn't find anything that was wrong so I soldered a whole new nanofury.
It looks identical to the old one but I am seeing some improvements in soldering. No bridges as far as I can see
But unfortunattely the miner is not detected by windows/raspberry.
I am hearing no sound when plugging it in, and led is not on.( I don't know if the led should be on).
The problem is the bitfury chip, some bridges have formed.
What do you think is best, use a soldering iron to remove the bridges?
Solder wick, or re-do (chipquick is some nice stuff for that).What do you think is best, use a soldering iron to remove the bridges?
http://www.theledart.com/blog/archives/1301
+1 :-)
Solder wick is your best friend!
And an old fashion toaster oven might be your second best one
Also take a look at this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_Qt5CtUlqY
(the interesting part starts after 3:30)
Also, I've been using SMT stencils for majority of my work and that's how I've been making my prototypes.
Here is how I did mine: http://imgur.com/a/5hXU4
Hi vs3,
speaking of your toster oven: Do you just use an old oven or did you modify the oven too?
I'm building one for my self and didn't see on your pictures any thermocouples or something like this, how do you control the temperature?
Thank you and best regards,
max
It happened to be on sale (for $20) so it was a brand new one
No mods whatsoever.
It has a temperature dial - which is way off but it worked for me.
- preheat: dial at 150C (which is closer to 180C), leave it there for 5min
- melt: dial 200-220C (you'll have to experiment and find out at what temp the solder starts melting - add 20C on top of that)
- measure 1min from the moment it starts melting, then unplug oven from outlet, open door and let it cool
The problem is the bitfury chip, some bridges have formed.
What do you think is best, use a soldering iron to remove the bridges?
Solder wick, or re-do (chipquick is some nice stuff for that).What do you think is best, use a soldering iron to remove the bridges?
http://www.theledart.com/blog/archives/1301
+1 :-)
Solder wick is your best friend!
And an old fashion toaster oven might be your second best one
Also take a look at this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_Qt5CtUlqY
(the interesting part starts after 3:30)
Also, I've been using SMT stencils for majority of my work and that's how I've been making my prototypes.
Here is how I did mine: http://imgur.com/a/5hXU4
Hi vs3,
speaking of your toster oven: Do you just use an old oven or did you modify the oven too?
I'm building one for my self and didn't see on your pictures any thermocouples or something like this, how do you control the temperature?
Thank you and best regards,
max
Allright, I thought that was the case.
It is compatible with 2 types of MCP2210 sizes.
The MCP2210 is probably the issue, I will try and fix it tomorrow I think.
As you may have noticed I am a total noob at this and it is mostly trial and error for me haha.
Placing solder paste on the board is a total disaster without a stencil.
The paste is not sticking to the board, so I looked it up on the internet and my solder paste is probably dried out.
I also read that you can dilute it with some flux, maybe give that a try.
( flux are 2 different things apparently, the watery stuff and the fat yellow goo)
I were to order a stencil, they ask you too upload some files in zip folder.
If this is just a picture(png/jpeg), how can they know what the actual size is.
Since it has to be printed in exactly the right size.
It is compatible with 2 types of MCP2210 sizes.
The MCP2210 is probably the issue, I will try and fix it tomorrow I think.
As you may have noticed I am a total noob at this and it is mostly trial and error for me haha.
Placing solder paste on the board is a total disaster without a stencil.
The paste is not sticking to the board, so I looked it up on the internet and my solder paste is probably dried out.
I also read that you can dilute it with some flux, maybe give that a try.
( flux are 2 different things apparently, the watery stuff and the fat yellow goo)
I were to order a stencil, they ask you too upload some files in zip folder.
If this is just a picture(png/jpeg), how can they know what the actual size is.
Since it has to be printed in exactly the right size.
where are you getting the stencil from? and they should be asking for a gerber file of the top cream layer
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