Topic: [Reward] Power? AsicMiner Blade V2 (Read 2133 times)
A fuse is a fuse - as long as it meets the current rating it'll be fine. Cubes and 49-port hubs use automotive fuses. I've used automotive fuses on Blades. As long as you can get it to solder on reliably, it'll work.
Still have to wait for the fuses to come in before i can start hashing 
I probably can't use that auto fuse right? lol
I probably can't use that auto fuse right? lol
As long as it is 10A, it will be fine, maybe sidehack can vouch / verify
Still have to wait for the fuses to come in before i can start hashing
I probably can't use that auto fuse right? lol
I probably can't use that auto fuse right? lol
Good to hear that worked. Yeah testing for power on these blades is sorta deceptive - you have to check on the downhill side of the fuse for 12V or you won't know if what's on the board is actually going anywhere.
Glad you got it working. Happy hashing.
BTC in sig.
BTC in sig.
If you measured 12V across the fuse, then it means the fuse is blown. You're getting power into the Blade's inputs, but not past the fuse. Sparks when testing voltage at the fan header could definitely cause the fuse to blow. Check the DC resistance of the fuse with no power applied - if it reads high (open-circuit) then it's blown.
The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.
If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.
The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.
If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.
Excellent, Ill test this right away. I really appreciate it. Ill report back later today.
I did just buy 5 fuses just in case I need them. Ill do the testing later on today.
Yahtzee!! - I held a 10a automotive blade fuse across the fuse and the LED lit up.
I have the fuses on order and ill get them in place.You two rock - If you both could - PM me your btc address and Ill send you a little thank you.
I really appreciate it!
If you measured 12V across the fuse, then it means the fuse is blown. You're getting power into the Blade's inputs, but not past the fuse. Sparks when testing voltage at the fan header could definitely cause the fuse to blow. Check the DC resistance of the fuse with no power applied - if it reads high (open-circuit) then it's blown.
The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.
If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.
The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.
If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.
Excellent, Ill test this right away. I really appreciate it. Ill report back later today.
I did just buy 5 fuses just in case I need them. Ill do the testing later on today.
If you measured 12V across the fuse, then it means the fuse is blown. You're getting power into the Blade's inputs, but not past the fuse. Sparks when testing voltage at the fan header could definitely cause the fuse to blow. Check the DC resistance of the fuse with no power applied - if it reads high (open-circuit) then it's blown.
The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.
If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.
The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.
If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.
Excellent, Ill test this right away. I really appreciate it. Ill report back later today.
If you measured 12V across the fuse, then it means the fuse is blown. You're getting power into the Blade's inputs, but not past the fuse. Sparks when testing voltage at the fan header could definitely cause the fuse to blow. Check the DC resistance of the fuse with no power applied - if it reads high (open-circuit) then it's blown.
The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.
If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.
The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.
If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.
Bad board, the microprocessor isn't powering up then. If IC 73 isn't damaged, I would guess bad voltage regulators, although it could be bad batch of caps to.
With it being more than one board, and if they were used, over voltage comes to mind. Pump to much power into it, frying the voltage regulator shorting it closed and good by board. Best case, the voltage regulator shorted open and didn't damage any componets.
With it being more than one board, and if they were used, over voltage comes to mind. Pump to much power into it, frying the voltage regulator shorting it closed and good by board. Best case, the voltage regulator shorted open and didn't damage any componets.
Well the second board was my fault i do believe. For the fan output x12, when i was probing the voltage out of it, it sparked because i think the probe contacted both pins. After that, this happened. As for the first one, Its just as we discussed above. Any thoughts on the second one?
I really appreciate you taking the time to help
I got the spark to when I was probing X12, board still works fine, hashing away, I believe the X12-14 are protected in case of fan failures.
I just test my other boards, none of them have power on X12-14 so I'm not sure on that. Just to make sure I tested all the points and ~3.3 in the spots where it should be.
I hate to say it but it sounds like someone sold you their mistake. If I had a schematic of these things I could help more but I don't know which voltage regulator goes to what, especially with this board being layered, I can't follow traces.
Maybe sidehack has more more insite, he knows quite a lot more on these boards.
Bad board, the microprocessor isn't powering up then. If IC 73 isn't damaged, I would guess bad voltage regulators, although it could be bad batch of caps to.
With it being more than one board, and if they were used, over voltage comes to mind. Pump to much power into it, frying the voltage regulator shorting it closed and good by board. Best case, the voltage regulator shorted open and didn't damage any componets.
With it being more than one board, and if they were used, over voltage comes to mind. Pump to much power into it, frying the voltage regulator shorting it closed and good by board. Best case, the voltage regulator shorted open and didn't damage any componets.
Well the second board was my fault i do believe. For the fan output x12, when i was probing the voltage out of it, it sparked because i think the probe contacted both pins. After that, this happened. As for the first one, Its just as we discussed above. Any thoughts on the second one?
I really appreciate you taking the time to help
Bad board, the microprocessor isn't powering up then. If IC 73 isn't damaged, I would guess bad voltage regulators, although it could be bad batch of caps to.
With it being more than one board, and if they were used, over voltage comes to mind. Pump to much power into it, frying the voltage regulator shorting it closed and good by board. Best case, the voltage regulator shorted open and didn't damage any componets.
With it being more than one board, and if they were used, over voltage comes to mind. Pump to much power into it, frying the voltage regulator shorting it closed and good by board. Best case, the voltage regulator shorted open and didn't damage any componets.
It sounds like a faulty voltage regulator.
Probe the serial lines, one section over from the 3.3 section, you will have gnd, tx, rx. Probe the tx and rx and see if you have 3.3 on there. If you have an oscilloscope you could check the output, but seeing if 3.3 is on the tx and rx lets you know whether or not the serial port is active.
All roads are leading to a faulty board. No 3.3 would lead to a voltage regulator, and it the vr went bad and opened it could cause a whole host of problems. Now for all your baldes to have the same issue is troublesome.
Probe the serial lines, one section over from the 3.3 section, you will have gnd, tx, rx. Probe the tx and rx and see if you have 3.3 on there. If you have an oscilloscope you could check the output, but seeing if 3.3 is on the tx and rx lets you know whether or not the serial port is active.
All roads are leading to a faulty board. No 3.3 would lead to a voltage regulator, and it the vr went bad and opened it could cause a whole host of problems. Now for all your baldes to have the same issue is troublesome.
Unfortunately do not have an oscilloscope. I get nothing out of the TX nor the RX
It sounds like a faulty voltage regulator.
Probe the serial lines, one section over from the 3.3 section, you will have gnd, tx, rx. Probe the tx and rx and see if you have 3.3 on there. If you have an oscilloscope you could check the output, but seeing if 3.3 is on the tx and rx lets you know whether or not the serial port is active.
All roads are leading to a faulty board. No 3.3 would lead to a voltage regulator, and it the vr went bad and opened it could cause a whole host of problems. Now for all your baldes to have the same issue is troublesome.
Probe the serial lines, one section over from the 3.3 section, you will have gnd, tx, rx. Probe the tx and rx and see if you have 3.3 on there. If you have an oscilloscope you could check the output, but seeing if 3.3 is on the tx and rx lets you know whether or not the serial port is active.
All roads are leading to a faulty board. No 3.3 would lead to a voltage regulator, and it the vr went bad and opened it could cause a whole host of problems. Now for all your baldes to have the same issue is troublesome.
When you checked for the 3.3 volts, your black lead stick it in ground, you can clamp it in the 12- on the board if you want or the port on the top with the piece that slides in.
Ok - I get nothing out of 3.3v
When you checked for the 3.3 volts, your black lead stick it in ground, you can clamp it in the 12- on the board if you want or the port on the top with the piece that slides in.
Measure across the fuse - black lead on one side, red lead on the other. If you measure 12V across the fuse, I'd say your fuse is blown and should be replaced. No volts across any of the output caps for the various regulators means none of them are working, which means either every single one is somehow disabled, every single one is blown, or every single one is not getting power. The last option is by far the most likely, and the chief culprit is the fuse.
Is this a green-board blade with a fuse soldered on, or a blue-board blade with a socket? I've seen a few of the socketed blue-boards that had a bunged socket where the fuse made bad contact at one end, or the solder job was done poorly and didn't connect at one end.
Is this a green-board blade with a fuse soldered on, or a blue-board blade with a socket? I've seen a few of the socketed blue-boards that had a bunged socket where the fuse made bad contact at one end, or the solder job was done poorly and didn't connect at one end.
I get 12V across the fuse at top (f1)
This is the Green board with the fuse soldered on.
You think it would be a good start to replace that fuse? Where do they sell replacements? I haven't been able to find one around my area.
This is the case on two of my blades.
Measure across the fuse - black lead on one side, red lead on the other. If you measure 12V across the fuse, I'd say your fuse is blown and should be replaced. No volts across any of the output caps for the various regulators means none of them are working, which means either every single one is somehow disabled, every single one is blown, or every single one is not getting power. The last option is by far the most likely, and the chief culprit is the fuse.
Is this a green-board blade with a fuse soldered on, or a blue-board blade with a socket? I've seen a few of the socketed blue-boards that had a bunged socket where the fuse made bad contact at one end, or the solder job was done poorly and didn't connect at one end.
Is this a green-board blade with a fuse soldered on, or a blue-board blade with a socket? I've seen a few of the socketed blue-boards that had a bunged socket where the fuse made bad contact at one end, or the solder job was done poorly and didn't connect at one end.
You should see 3.3V across C286, and 1.05V at C166/167, C181/182 etc
Also take a close look at IC73, the PIC, to see if it's got any craters in it. I have partially-functional blade with visible rupture on this chip.
Also take a close look at IC73, the PIC, to see if it's got any craters in it. I have partially-functional blade with visible rupture on this chip.
Not getting anything across 286 nor the C166/167. Have to be honest though, like the comment above, Im not sure If I am probing the correct spots.
IC73 does not have any craters or ruptures in it.
Thanks for your help!
Have you taken a vmm to the power terminals on the board to see if it is getting power?
With the power supply on hook up your vmm to the 12+ and 12- on the board, if you get 12v then do the same thing on the top of the blade, if you get power there then you have a defective blade.
If you get power on the board but not the top of the blade, a fuse is blown.
If you don't get power on the board terminals, then it is the power supply.
With the power supply on hook up your vmm to the 12+ and 12- on the board, if you get 12v then do the same thing on the top of the blade, if you get power there then you have a defective blade.
If you get power on the board but not the top of the blade, a fuse is blown.
If you don't get power on the board terminals, then it is the power supply.
Thank you for your input. Ill check with what you suggested and check back in.
Thanks
k, I have 12.6v on the board as well as at top of the blade
I also have 12.6 at the resistor at the top too.. Suggestions?
One thing I noticed is that I don't have any power coming out of the X12 output (at the top)...
^ i feel like the kid i bought this off of maybe shorted this? What can be done here to fix the blade. Theres power throughout the blade except here.
X12,13,14 are for fans. I have brand new blades and don't have power on them either, although that could be my own fault too.
If you have power at all the points, then it is most likely a faulty board. Have you checked the 3.3 tp also?
where is 3.3 tp?
Thanks!
X7 (XXXXX)
^
Checked 3.3, I'm not getting any reading off of that. However, i must state I am not sure what I need to read in combination of this pin. Where should I place my meter probes?
Thanks
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