The Chili – 30+GH/s BFL based Bitcoin Miner Assembly - page 14.

twib2

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Quote from: bx8389 on January 29, 2014, 04:37:45 AM

Quote from: twib2 on January 28, 2014, 07:38:24 PM

I'm still trying to get my second Chili back up and reliable. Right now, it stops talking to cgminer/bfgminer after 2-8 minutes and needs to be powered off/on and the miner restarted to resume mining. Rinse and repeat. I've posted the errors earlier (https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.4557778). Anyone have any ideas/suggestions?

So far, I've tried: reflashing the the 1.1v-limited firmware, reflowing the FTDI chip, reseating a nearby small SMD capacitor that might have gotten dislodged, but so far still unstable. Before I had the pin 5-6 shorting mishap (hit an adjacent pin at the same time during a reset, trashing my FTDI chip), it was pretty solid, though I did have to reset it about once a day. Replaced the FTDI chip with a new one, programmed it (thanks Mr. Teal!), and was back hashing, but never stable or even usable.

Help?

Lucko's cointamination thread have a lot of info about problems and some solutions for chilli boards. I think desserve some attention: start here but look before and after
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.4417461

Thanks, but supposedly the non-Lucko boards don't have the hairdryer problem. Still, I might try that for good luck. Maybe the initial problem somehow duplicated the strangeness of the Lucko boards...

twib2

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Quote from: MrTeal on January 29, 2014, 10:54:12 AM

Quote from: twib2 on January 28, 2014, 07:38:24 PM

I'm still trying to get my second Chili back up and reliable. Right now, it stops talking to cgminer/bfgminer after 2-8 minutes and needs to be powered off/on and the miner restarted to resume mining. Rinse and repeat. I've posted the errors earlier (https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.4557778). Anyone have any ideas/suggestions?

So far, I've tried: reflashing the the 1.1v-limited firmware, reflowing the FTDI chip, reseating a nearby small SMD capacitor that might have gotten dislodged, but so far still unstable. Before I had the pin 5-6 shorting mishap (hit an adjacent pin at the same time during a reset, trashing my FTDI chip), it was pretty solid, though I did have to reset it about once a day. Replaced the FTDI chip with a new one, programmed it (thanks Mr. Teal!), and was back hashing, but never stable or even usable.

Help?

So, it doesn't reset or anything, it just stops talking?
Do you have a multimeter, and the next time it stops talking can you measure the voltage across C19 (one of the unpopulated ceramic capacitors between the PSU and ASICs).

When that happens, the indicator lights go dark and the miner can't talk to it anymore. It will actually reset smoe/most of the time, but of course the miner program doesn't notice that and has to restart before it'll catch again. Once it's back up it repeats the crash with these three errors randomly streaming/repeating (mostly the timed out and unexpected queue result ones):

Code:

[2014-01-16 22:57:42] BFL 1: Failed to send queue
[2014-01-16 22:57:43] BFL 1: Error: Get temp returned empty string/timed out
[2014-01-16 22:57:43] BFL 1: Received unexpected queue result response:

I'll hook it back up again once I have a free PSU and look at the voltage across C19. What should it be, and what are you hoping to see from that?

MrTeal

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Quote from: twib2 on January 28, 2014, 07:38:24 PM

I'm still trying to get my second Chili back up and reliable. Right now, it stops talking to cgminer/bfgminer after 2-8 minutes and needs to be powered off/on and the miner restarted to resume mining. Rinse and repeat. I've posted the errors earlier (https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.4557778). Anyone have any ideas/suggestions?

So far, I've tried: reflashing the the 1.1v-limited firmware, reflowing the FTDI chip, reseating a nearby small SMD capacitor that might have gotten dislodged, but so far still unstable. Before I had the pin 5-6 shorting mishap (hit an adjacent pin at the same time during a reset, trashing my FTDI chip), it was pretty solid, though I did have to reset it about once a day. Replaced the FTDI chip with a new one, programmed it (thanks Mr. Teal!), and was back hashing, but never stable or even usable.

Help?

So, it doesn't reset or anything, it just stops talking?
Do you have a multimeter, and the next time it stops talking can you measure the voltage across C19 (one of the unpopulated ceramic capacitors between the PSU and ASICs).

MrTeal

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Quote from: ZBC3 on January 26, 2014, 12:15:43 AM

In that case, are you working on any designs using other chips ?

I have a design here with the Coincraft A1 chips, but due to an error in their datasheet the pads are the incorrect size. It's already fixed, but I haven't sent the modified boards off to be made as I'm going to be extremely time limited this next month. To be honest, I'm not sure we'll pursue it at all. Their pricing needs to come down to make sense, $87.50 for a 30GH/s chip is going to be a tough sell with the delivery timelines they're talking about.

Mudbankkeith

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Quote from: bx8389 on January 29, 2014, 04:37:45 AM

Quote from: twib2 on January 28, 2014, 07:38:24 PM

I'm still trying to get my second Chili back up and reliable. Right now, it stops talking to cgminer/bfgminer after 2-8 minutes and needs to be powered off/on and the miner restarted to resume mining. Rinse and repeat. I've posted the errors earlier (https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.4557778). Anyone have any ideas/suggestions?

So far, I've tried: reflashing the the 1.1v-limited firmware, reflowing the FTDI chip, reseating a nearby small SMD capacitor that might have gotten dislodged, but so far still unstable. Before I had the pin 5-6 shorting mishap (hit an adjacent pin at the same time during a reset, trashing my FTDI chip), it was pretty solid, though I did have to reset it about once a day. Replaced the FTDI chip with a new one, programmed it (thanks Mr. Teal!), and was back hashing, but never stable or even usable.

Help?

Lucko's cointamination thread have a lot of info about problems and some solutions for chilli boards. I think desserve some attention: start here but look before and after
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.4417461

There is a "slow rise version" of the software being installed on some of the newer boards, maybe MrTeal can send it to you?

bx8389

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Quote from: twib2 on January 28, 2014, 07:38:24 PM

I'm still trying to get my second Chili back up and reliable. Right now, it stops talking to cgminer/bfgminer after 2-8 minutes and needs to be powered off/on and the miner restarted to resume mining. Rinse and repeat. I've posted the errors earlier (https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.4557778). Anyone have any ideas/suggestions?

So far, I've tried: reflashing the the 1.1v-limited firmware, reflowing the FTDI chip, reseating a nearby small SMD capacitor that might have gotten dislodged, but so far still unstable. Before I had the pin 5-6 shorting mishap (hit an adjacent pin at the same time during a reset, trashing my FTDI chip), it was pretty solid, though I did have to reset it about once a day. Replaced the FTDI chip with a new one, programmed it (thanks Mr. Teal!), and was back hashing, but never stable or even usable.

Help?

Lucko's cointamination thread have a lot of info about problems and some solutions for chilli boards. I think desserve some attention: start here but look before and after
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.4417461

twib2

sr. member

Activity: 280

Merit: 250

Helperizer

I'm still trying to get my second Chili back up and reliable. Right now, it stops talking to cgminer/bfgminer after 2-8 minutes and needs to be powered off/on and the miner restarted to resume mining. Rinse and repeat. I've posted the errors earlier (https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.4557778). Anyone have any ideas/suggestions?

So far, I've tried: reflashing the the 1.1v-limited firmware, reflowing the FTDI chip, reseating a nearby small SMD capacitor that might have gotten dislodged, but so far still unstable. Before I had the pin 5-6 shorting mishap (hit an adjacent pin at the same time during a reset, trashing my FTDI chip), it was pretty solid, though I did have to reset it about once a day. Replaced the FTDI chip with a new one, programmed it (thanks Mr. Teal!), and was back hashing, but never stable or even usable.

Help?

GrapeApe

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Quote from: GrapeApe on January 25, 2014, 06:06:24 PM

Quote from: asjfdlksfd on January 25, 2014, 05:29:25 PM

Quote from: GrapeApe on January 25, 2014, 05:01:36 PM

Hey Mr.Teal I have several caps that broke off of my boards from Lucko from a rough delivery. I have little to no soldering experience but am willing to buy an iron and get some. Can you please give a little more instruction on how to solder them back on. Also I'm here in Austin so if you think it would be better to take them in somewhere do you have any recommendations?

I cannot recommend this, if you have no experience. The boards are so good the heat of your iron will heat the most of the pcb before the solder will melt.

If you find someone in your near (austin looks like not so a small village

you should do this by them. Best is to repair them on local shop which also repairs tv's and so on, if there any. It should not costs more than some $.

For your information, for the outer capacity + is in the inner side. That means the blue mark must shown to the outer side. On my post above you can have a look how it should not be mounted.

Cheers...

Thanks for the advice I'll find someone on Monday to do it.

Edit: ChipGeek got in touch with me he is going to take care this for me.

ChipGeek got me fixed up both boards are up and hashing away.

ZBC3

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In that case, are you working on any designs using other chips ?

MrTeal

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Quote from: ZBC3 on January 25, 2014, 08:45:24 PM

Out of curiosity are there any plans to make boards that have more than 9 BFL chips, or do the BFL chips get too hot to effectively make a larger board?

Not really, no. There's no real point in doing another design, since BFL doesn't sell the chips anymore and they're getting increasingly hard to find. There'd be boards with nothing to put on them.

ZBC3

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Out of curiosity are there any plans to make boards that have more than 9 BFL chips, or do the BFL chips get too hot to effectively make a larger board?

GrapeApe

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Activity: 476

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Quote from: asjfdlksfd on January 25, 2014, 05:29:25 PM

Quote from: GrapeApe on January 25, 2014, 05:01:36 PM

Hey Mr.Teal I have several caps that broke off of my boards from Lucko from a rough delivery. I have little to no soldering experience but am willing to buy an iron and get some. Can you please give a little more instruction on how to solder them back on. Also I'm here in Austin so if you think it would be better to take them in somewhere do you have any recommendations?

I cannot recommend this, if you have no experience. The boards are so good the heat of your iron will heat the most of the pcb before the solder will melt.

If you find someone in your near (austin looks like not so a small village

you should do this by them. Best is to repair them on local shop which also repairs tv's and so on, if there any. It should not costs more than some $.

For your information, for the outer capacity + is in the inner side. That means the blue mark must shown to the outer side. On my post above you can have a look how it should not be mounted.

Cheers...

Thanks for the advice I'll find someone on Monday to do it.

Edit: ChipGeek got in touch with me he is going to take care this for me.

asjfdlksfd

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Activity: 128

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Quote from: GrapeApe on January 25, 2014, 05:01:36 PM

Hey Mr.Teal I have several caps that broke off of my boards from Lucko from a rough delivery. I have little to no soldering experience but am willing to buy an iron and get some. Can you please give a little more instruction on how to solder them back on. Also I'm here in Austin so if you think it would be better to take them in somewhere do you have any recommendations?

I cannot recommend this, if you have no experience. The boards are so good the heat of your iron will heat the most of the pcb before the solder will melt.

If you find someone in your near (austin looks like not so a small village

you should do this by them. Best is to repair them on local shop which also repairs tv's and so on, if there any. It should not costs more than some $.

For your information, for the outer capacity + is in the inner side. That means the blue mark must shown to the outer side. On my post above you can have a look how it should not be mounted.

Cheers...

asjfdlksfd

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Activity: 128

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Quote from: MrTeal on January 25, 2014, 04:13:26 PM

Wow, I can't believe that happened, or that it wouldn't have shorted out sooner.
The best way to solder the new one on is to use an iron, and either solder paste or flux. Clean the pad off, and apply the paste to the pads. Put the new cap down, and just heat the pad and lead until the solder paste flows.

Yep, I did this with a little help from my air solder gun

I found an 1500 µF 16 V type (the only which have had more then 12 V) capacity from an old defect pc main board. I used it as a replacement so the board is hashing now (hopefully longer than before.) The 160 mm x 100 mm x 10 mm backplate heat sink is a little bit expensive with costs of 6€ , but it helps to cool the bfl chips and the power dist chips

And all these only for a few month :/

Cheers...

GrapeApe

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Activity: 476

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Quote from: MrTeal on January 25, 2014, 04:13:26 PM

Wow, I can't believe that happened, or that it wouldn't have shorted out sooner.
The best way to solder the new one on is to use an iron, and either solder paste or flux. Clean the pad off, and apply the paste to the pads. Put the new cap down, and just heat the pad and lead until the solder paste flows.

Hey Mr.Teal I have several caps that broke off of my boards from Lucko from a rough delivery. I have little to no soldering experience but am willing to buy an iron and get some. Can you please give a little more instruction on how to solder them back on. Also I'm here in Austin so if you think it would be better to take them in somewhere do you have any recommendations?

Oh also in the image above his cap has the blue side on the inside I thought it was supposed to be on the outside.

Edit: You know after posting this I'm realizing I'm asking you to hold my hand again, so with that said any pointers would be appreciated but I'll start reading up on soldering. Thx

MrTeal

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Quote from: asjfdlksfd on January 25, 2014, 04:02:38 PM

Hi,

now I understand why one of my boards begins hashing but fails with a short on 12V after 30 minutes:

I will replace them. I hope I find one in one of my boxes. It will hard to replace them with the the backplate heatsink which is melted by thermal activated bonding foil... Sad

I will use my pre heater with low temperature (100 °C) and leaded solder.

Demounting was easy (twist left-right some times). After demontage the chilly works again and has not further an short circuit on the 12V rail any more. So I hope I get it back this evening ;-)

Cheers...

Wow, I can't believe that happened, or that it wouldn't have shorted out sooner.
The best way to solder the new one on is to use an iron, and either solder paste or flux. Clean the pad off, and apply the paste to the pads. Put the new cap down, and just heat the pad and lead until the solder paste flows.

asjfdlksfd

full member

Activity: 128

Merit: 100

Hi,

now I understand why one of my boards begins hashing but fails with a short on 12V after 30 minutes:

I will replace them. I hope I find one in one of my boxes. It will hard to replace them with the the backplate heatsink which is melted by thermal activated bonding foil... Sad

I will use my pre heater with low temperature (100 °C) and leaded solder.

Demounting was easy (twist left-right some times). After demontage the chilly works again and has not further an short circuit on the 12V rail any more. So I hope I get it back this evening ;-)

Cheers...

MrTeal

legendary

Activity: 1274

Merit: 1004

Quote from: Hands on January 25, 2014, 09:23:23 AM

Ok this is just flat confusing.

I Hanover one miner that exhibits the following symptoms

1) if it is turned on before my raspberry ip combiner doesn't see it. Then ten minutes later or so the pi will crash!!

2) if it's on after the pi, the pi crashes almost instantly

3) if I connect it to my PC and turn it on there. Then unplug the USB and plug it into my pi it runs fine for hours.

4) when "doing nothing" before crashing the miner the next to last led will be solid on. Nothing else.

* I have tried multiple pis and multiple USB hubs.

Thoughts? Should I be using bfgminer instead?

Try sending a PM to ChipGeek. I've never seen anything like that, but I don't use a Pi.

Hands

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Activity: 67

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Ok this is just flat confusing.

I Hanover one miner that exhibits the following symptoms

1) if it is turned on before my raspberry ip combiner doesn't see it. Then ten minutes later or so the pi will crash!!

2) if it's on after the pi, the pi crashes almost instantly

3) if I connect it to my PC and turn it on there. Then unplug the USB and plug it into my pi it runs fine for hours.

4) when "doing nothing" before crashing the miner the next to last led will be solid on. Nothing else.

* I have tried multiple pis and multiple USB hubs.

Thoughts? Should I be using bfgminer instead?

Mudbankkeith

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Quote from: Hands on January 21, 2014, 07:36:00 AM

is low temp + high hash rate + high hardware error rate just bad luck during the self test or a sign of something else (uneven cooling perhaps?).

I have a card running at 58degrees, 36gh but 11% or 12% error rate.

voltage is 1.08v using the 1.1v limited firmware

Thanks
~Hands

I would re check your cooler contact on that board, then add some secondary cooling UNDER the power modules. 58c seems low on a 36Gh board, possibly why the error rate is high.

I would be expecting ( with a good cooler contact and secondary cooling) 68-70c 38Gh Hw 5% or less

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