The Chili – 30+GH/s BFL based Bitcoin Miner Assembly - page 16.

Bogart

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Quote from: MrTeal on January 16, 2014, 09:05:16 PM

The less annoying and higher performance method (the backplate is in the better orientation) is to use some 6-32x2" screws to hold it in place though.

Hm, I don't seem to have any #6-32s on hand. I guess it'll be another day until I'm up and hashing.

Thanks.

MrTeal

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Quote from: Bogart on January 16, 2014, 08:44:10 PM

I just received some Chilis yesterday from our TechnoBit friends across the pond, and today received the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo coolers for them.

Do you guys have any tips on attaching the coolers? The included hardware doesn't seem to quite fit right. I started by attaching the back-plate to the back side of the board, using the included tall stand-offs and nuts, but when I then try to secure the cooler to the top side using the included scissors-style "X" clip, there is still a gap left between the cooler and the chip surfaces after the screws have been threaded all the way into the standoffs.

The short stand-offs don't looks like they are made to pass through the boards. If I try to use them, there is not enough thread on the back side to attach the nuts with the back plate still in place.

How did you guys do it?

Quote from: MrTeal on December 23, 2013, 09:40:24 AM

The less annoying and higher performance method (the backplate is in the better orientation) is to use some 6-32x2" screws to hold it in place though.

lightfoot

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I fix broken miners. And make holes in teeth :-)

Quote from: Bogart on January 16, 2014, 08:44:10 PM

I just received some Chilis yesterday from our TechnoBit friends across the pond, and today received the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo coolers for them.

Do you guys have any tips on attaching the coolers? The included hardware doesn't seem to quite fit right. I started by attaching the back-plate to the back side of the board, using the included tall stand-offs and nuts, but when I then try to secure the cooler to the top side using the included scissors-style "X" clip, there is still a gap left between the cooler and the chip surfaces after the screws have been threaded all the way into the standoffs.

The short stand-offs don't looks like they are made to pass through the boards. If I try to use them, there is not enough thread on the back side to attach the nuts with the back plate still in place.

How did you guys do it?

Bolts from Home Despot.

Bogart

legendary

Activity: 966

Merit: 1000

I just received some Chilis yesterday from our TechnoBit friends across the pond, and today received the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo coolers for them.

Do you guys have any tips on attaching the coolers? The included hardware doesn't seem to quite fit right. I started by attaching the back-plate to the back side of the board, using the included tall stand-offs and nuts, but when I then try to secure the cooler to the top side using the included scissors-style "X" clip, there is still a gap left between the cooler and the chip surfaces after the screws have been threaded all the way into the standoffs.

The short stand-offs don't looks like they are made to pass through the boards. If I try to use them, there is not enough thread on the back side to attach the nuts with the back plate still in place.

How did you guys do it?

Hands

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Activity: 67

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Quote from: MrTeal on January 16, 2014, 09:10:59 AM

Quote from: Hands on January 16, 2014, 07:32:32 AM

I am running CGMiner 3.8.5 I also came home to one of my miners in that weird state (all lights off, zero hashing)... Rebooted the farm (with my 20 minute wait to cool down) and all was happy...

* I tested giving a miner 5 minutes of power and fans running to cool itself down enough to self test and it didn't...
* I also tested if the pi's could be turned on at the same time as the miners and would they complete their self test and start mining (even with work issued to them early) and that DID work so I can put the miners and the pi's on the same wifi controlled power switches if I want so that's good :-).

Like I mentioned before, if they are too hot to self test within 30 seconds, I have never seen them self test after that.

Thanks

On the bolded part, did you power cycle the unit when you did that? Also, what's the density of the installation, and were all the other units running? I can unplug mine from running full out and plug them back in immediately, and while it can take a minute to cool down they always come back up.

Yes I've power cycled the device... I've never had one auto-reconnect on their own.

Right now I have 3 that I power cycled and are just blinking (number 7, so waiting for temp).. but they have been off for 1/2 an hour... each card cooled with an h80 and is 6~8" from the next one.. The temp up stairs (where the cards are) is maybe 80 degrees.

bx8389

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Quote from: Mudbankkeith on January 16, 2014, 12:38:30 PM

Quote from: twib2 on January 16, 2014, 12:24:47 PM

Quote from: MrTeal on January 16, 2014, 11:55:15 AM

For the second one, try flashing it again with 1V1, it shouldn't go (much) above 1.1V though 1.11V wouldn't be unexpected. Does it go up to 1.15? You don't need to keep the bottom heatsinks warm during operation, the issues with the boards needing to be warmed up prior to startup with a hair dryer is exclusive to the boards made by Lucko. It shouldn't have an effect on your board.

Thanks, I was wondering about the hairdryer thing. The problem board does get above 1.15v in cgminer sometimes - that seems to be the majority of the times it's crapping out (bfgminer doesn't show it getting that high when it craps out). It also sometimes now does the 200+ GHs with practically all errors too, if that info helps.

The "hairdryer mod" is only good for boards that "stick" just under 1v it just gives the warm up a bit of a push.
The secondary cooling is mainly to move the air under the board. Heat rises, so the spill off from the main cooling fan is enough to ventilate the top.

A thought has just struck me, Will the Lucko boards with a problem work better upside down!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, is strange, but I use upside down config for my boards ...

Mudbankkeith

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Quote from: twib2 on January 16, 2014, 12:24:47 PM

Quote from: MrTeal on January 16, 2014, 11:55:15 AM

For the second one, try flashing it again with 1V1, it shouldn't go (much) above 1.1V though 1.11V wouldn't be unexpected. Does it go up to 1.15? You don't need to keep the bottom heatsinks warm during operation, the issues with the boards needing to be warmed up prior to startup with a hair dryer is exclusive to the boards made by Lucko. It shouldn't have an effect on your board.

Thanks, I was wondering about the hairdryer thing. The problem board does get above 1.15v in cgminer sometimes - that seems to be the majority of the times it's crapping out (bfgminer doesn't show it getting that high when it craps out). It also sometimes now does the 200+ GHs with practically all errors too, if that info helps.

The "hairdryer mod" is only good for boards that "stick" just under 1v it just gives the warm up a bit of a push.
The secondary cooling is mainly to move the air under the board. Heat rises, so the spill off from the main cooling fan is enough to ventilate the top.

A thought has just struck me, Will the Lucko boards with a problem work better upside down!!!!!!!!!!!

twib2

sr. member

Activity: 280

Merit: 250

Helperizer

Quote from: MrTeal on January 16, 2014, 11:55:15 AM

For the second one, try flashing it again with 1V1, it shouldn't go (much) above 1.1V though 1.11V wouldn't be unexpected. Does it go up to 1.15? You don't need to keep the bottom heatsinks warm during operation, the issues with the boards needing to be warmed up prior to startup with a hair dryer is exclusive to the boards made by Lucko. It shouldn't have an effect on your board.

Thanks, I was wondering about the hairdryer thing. The problem board does get above 1.15v in cgminer sometimes - that seems to be the majority of the times it's crapping out (bfgminer doesn't show it getting that high when it craps out). It also sometimes now does the 200+ GHs with practically all errors too, if that info helps.

twib2

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Activity: 280

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Helperizer

Quote from: Mudbankkeith on January 16, 2014, 11:31:30 AM

MrTeal and Lucko are evaluating some more firmware versions, maybe they will have something soon.
Do you use any secondary cooling?

Thanks, yep, good fan to blow across the heatsinks on the underside. For the watercooled one, it's actually angled a bit and gets to the top part of the tall heatsinks. I tried cooling the top for the problem board and I wasn't sure if it helped or hurt so I took it off.

MrTeal

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Quote from: twib2 on January 16, 2014, 11:26:53 AM

Still having intermittent problems now, but I think these are "normal" ones. Couple of questions:

- What is the recommended miner and version that seems to perform best with these Chilis (and even what flags enabled/disabled if it's known)? I'm looking for the most stable, not necessarily the fastest; I'd rather get rid of these intermittent zombie/sick attacks.

- I'm running the 14e version with the 1.1v limitation on both chilis, but one (212 Evo cooled) still gets above 1.1v and predictably craps out sometimes. The other is fine usually (H60 refurb water cooled). Any ideas what I can do? There are heatsinks on the bottom under the mosfets and above on the 4 chips above the heatsinks on the bottom. Should I be letting some part of it keep warm somehow (cold room in winter), or is there a recommended firmware for this situation? BTW, the Chili that is acting up has all 16 cores enabled on all 8 chips so I was really hoping the 1.1v limiation would do the trick - but alas, no.

Thanks for any help!
- Tye

I don't really have a preferred version. I believe I'm using 3.8.5, but I just haven't bothered to upgrade. I probably should try again to see if 3.10.0 handles reconnecting USB devices better when I have hub issues.

For the second one, try flashing it again with 1V1, it shouldn't go (much) above 1.1V though 1.11V wouldn't be unexpected. Does it go up to 1.15? You don't need to keep the bottom heatsinks warm during operation, the issues with the boards needing to be warmed up prior to startup with a hair dryer is exclusive to the boards made by Lucko. It shouldn't have an effect on your board.

Mudbankkeith

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Activity: 868

Merit: 1000

Quote from: twib2 on January 16, 2014, 11:26:53 AM

Still having intermittent problems now, but I think these are "normal" ones. Couple of questions:

- What is the recommended miner and version that seems to perform best with these Chilis (and even what flags enabled/disabled if it's known)? I'm looking for the most stable, not necessarily the fastest; I'd rather get rid of these intermittent zombie/sick attacks.

- I'm running the 14e version with the 1.1v limitation on both chilis, but one (212 Evo cooled) still gets above 1.1v and predictably craps out sometimes. The other is fine usually (H60 refurb water cooled). Any ideas what I can do? There are heatsinks on the bottom under the mosfets and above on the 4 chips above the heatsinks on the bottom. Should I be letting some part of it keep warm somehow (cold room in winter), or is there a recommended firmware for this situation? BTW, the Chili that is acting up has all 16 cores enabled on all 8 chips so I was really hoping the 1.1v limiation would do the trick - but alas, no.

Thanks for any help!
- Tye

MrTeal and Lucko are evaluating some more firmware versions, maybe they will have something soon.
Do you use any secondary cooling?

twib2

sr. member

Activity: 280

Merit: 250

Helperizer

Still having intermittent problems now, but I think these are "normal" ones. Couple of questions:

- What is the recommended miner and version that seems to perform best with these Chilis (and even what flags enabled/disabled if it's known)? I'm looking for the most stable, not necessarily the fastest; I'd rather get rid of these intermittent zombie/sick attacks.

- I'm running the 14e version with the 1.1v limitation on both chilis, but one (212 Evo cooled) still gets above 1.1v and predictably craps out sometimes. The other is fine usually (H60 refurb water cooled). Any ideas what I can do? There are heatsinks on the bottom under the mosfets and above on the 4 chips above the heatsinks on the bottom. Should I be letting some part of it keep warm somehow (cold room in winter), or is there a recommended firmware for this situation? BTW, the Chili that is acting up has all 16 cores enabled on all 8 chips so I was really hoping the 1.1v limiation would do the trick - but alas, no.

Thanks for any help!
- Tye

MrTeal

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Quote from: Hands on January 16, 2014, 07:32:32 AM

I am running CGMiner 3.8.5 I also came home to one of my miners in that weird state (all lights off, zero hashing)... Rebooted the farm (with my 20 minute wait to cool down) and all was happy...

* I tested giving a miner 5 minutes of power and fans running to cool itself down enough to self test and it didn't...
* I also tested if the pi's could be turned on at the same time as the miners and would they complete their self test and start mining (even with work issued to them early) and that DID work so I can put the miners and the pi's on the same wifi controlled power switches if I want so that's good :-).

Like I mentioned before, if they are too hot to self test within 30 seconds, I have never seen them self test after that.

Thanks

On the bolded part, did you power cycle the unit when you did that? Also, what's the density of the installation, and were all the other units running? I can unplug mine from running full out and plug them back in immediately, and while it can take a minute to cool down they always come back up.

Mudbankkeith

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TeamViewer is a good FREE pc remote controller (free for domestic use)

Ideal for managing remote PC when running miners (and other software)

You can remote control many PC's from home.

Hands

member

Activity: 67

Merit: 10

I am running CGMiner 3.8.5 I also came home to one of my miners in that weird state (all lights off, zero hashing)... Rebooted the farm (with my 20 minute wait to cool down) and all was happy...

* I tested giving a miner 5 minutes of power and fans running to cool itself down enough to self test and it didn't...
* I also tested if the pi's could be turned on at the same time as the miners and would they complete their self test and start mining (even with work issued to them early) and that DID work so I can put the miners and the pi's on the same wifi controlled power switches if I want so that's good :-).

Like I mentioned before, if they are too hot to self test within 30 seconds, I have never seen them self test after that.

Thanks

Hands

member

Activity: 67

Merit: 10

Quote from: MrTeal on January 15, 2014, 12:19:54 PM

What firmware on the Chilis and cgminer version?

Power cycling it will bring the draw back down to the few watt mark again, whether you wait a couple seconds or a couple hours.

On startup the board measures three sensors and waits for them to cool if needed before enabling the chips; the internal temperature of the VRM chip (30C), the temperature of the sensor near the FETs (37C) and the internal sensor of the thermal diode measurement chip (30C). Once those have dropped and settled it uses that information to calibrate the thermal diodes on the ASICs, which can vary quite a bit from chip to chip. So long as your ambient temperature isn't very close to or over 30C, it should start.

The Firmware version is the 1.1volt limited version you sent out a while back... The Cgminer version.. I'll have to tell you when I get home and can check.. It was built right around the same time so its roughly 6 weeks old I suppose.

I tried to run bfgminer, but for some reason it doesn't see the chiles... Same setup and cgminer sees them just fine (on my laptop bfgminer sees them just fine so maybe I am doing something wrong there.. that's entirely possible.)

I am going to test, shutting the miner down for 10 seconds and timing how long they take to come back..

I am also going to test if there is a difference with the pi's on or off during the reboot of the miners.

Thanks

Mudbankkeith

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Quote from: Cascaders28 on January 15, 2014, 01:46:41 PM

In the unlikely event that anyone else is considering trying to be creative and purchase a non-Corsair water cooler for their Chili I figured I'd relay some info about one I just picked up...

The Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro can be made to work but it will require some field engineering! The default hardware didn't work but I was able to rig it up using everything for the 1156 mounting except the screws they provided. Right now that Chili is hashing at 33 Ghs at 64C. My other Chilis are running at 65C and 69C so am I correct in my belief that some active cooling over the mofset area will allow for more speed at this point? These things really are a tweakers delight and I'm amazed at what a difference just giving them some air makes.

some heatsinks under the mosfets helps cooling, a bit of air also helps, then you may see temps around 69/70c

Cascaders28

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In the unlikely event that anyone else is considering trying to be creative and purchase a non-Corsair water cooler for their Chili I figured I'd relay some info about one I just picked up...

The Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro can be made to work but it will require some field engineering! The default hardware didn't work but I was able to rig it up using everything for the 1156 mounting except the screws they provided. Right now that Chili is hashing at 33 Ghs at 64C. My other Chilis are running at 65C and 69C so am I correct in my belief that some active cooling over the mofset area will allow for more speed at this point? These things really are a tweakers delight and I'm amazed at what a difference just giving them some air makes.

MrTeal

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Quote from: Hands on January 15, 2014, 12:09:37 PM

Quote from: MrTeal on January 15, 2014, 12:05:30 PM

They shouldn't be idling at 100W after a reset, more like 10-20W the majority of which is often the fan. After a reset the board turns on the 1V power supply to the chips, but it runs at 0.85V and does not enable the clocks until the self test starts. The chips only pull a few watts at this point.

The only time I could see it idling at 100W is if it was at a high voltage after having run for awhile (like 1.15V) and for whatever reason work isn't being sent to the chips, but the clocks are still on.

Thank you for the clarification...

So any ideas why sometimes I come home with a miner with no lights on at all and CGMiner saying its connected but hashing 0? And sometimes I'll reboot the pi and the card still wont' come back.. Power it off, wait N number of minutes (more than 5, 20 works all the time) and it comes back to life just fine.

What firmware on the Chilis and cgminer version?

Power cycling it will bring the draw back down to the few watt mark again, whether you wait a couple seconds or a couple hours.

On startup the board measures three sensors and waits for them to cool if needed before enabling the chips; the internal temperature of the VRM chip (30C), the temperature of the sensor near the FETs (37C) and the internal sensor of the thermal diode measurement chip (30C). Once those have dropped and settled it uses that information to calibrate the thermal diodes on the ASICs, which can vary quite a bit from chip to chip. So long as your ambient temperature isn't very close to or over 30C, it should start.

Hands

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Activity: 67

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Quote from: MrTeal on January 15, 2014, 12:05:30 PM

They shouldn't be idling at 100W after a reset, more like 10-20W the majority of which is often the fan. After a reset the board turns on the 1V power supply to the chips, but it runs at 0.85V and does not enable the clocks until the self test starts. The chips only pull a few watts at this point.

The only time I could see it idling at 100W is if it was at a high voltage after having run for awhile (like 1.15V) and for whatever reason work isn't being sent to the chips, but the clocks are still on.

Thank you for the clarification...

So any ideas why sometimes I come home with a miner with no lights on at all and CGMiner saying its connected but hashing 0? And sometimes I'll reboot the pi and the card still wont' come back.. Power it off, wait N number of minutes (more than 5, 20 works all the time) and it comes back to life just fine.

Topic: The Chili – 30+GH/s BFL based Bitcoin Miner Assembly - page 16. (Read 137904 times)