Using a 220V wash machine outlet for power.....

MrTeal

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Quote from: perlboy on April 07, 2012, 07:34:16 PM

Quote from: DeathAndTaxes on April 07, 2012, 06:29:42 PM

1) Outlets of a PDU have insufficient wattage to run a dryer.

So the dryer is going to use more than 15 amps? Cause that's what one type of these PDUs will deliver.

Quote

3) Plugging dryer into a PDU (even if possible) doesn't eliminate the issue of unsufficient wattage on the circuit

See 1.

The dryer could very well use more than 15 amps. Most do. Even then, it doesn't matter how many 15A circuits the PDU has, the breaker is likely 30A. If you're pulling 20A from the dryer you won't be able to draw 15A from the rig, regardless of what the PDU says. Dryer circuits are wired to supply a dryer and that's it. They're not really intended to be shared.

perlboy

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Quote from: DeathAndTaxes on April 07, 2012, 06:29:42 PM

1) Outlets of a PDU have insufficient wattage to run a dryer.

So the dryer is going to use more than 15 amps? Cause that's what one type of these PDUs will deliver.

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2) US dryers require both 120V & 240V which no PDU outlet supplies

I didn't know that.

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3) Plugging dryer into a PDU (even if possible) doesn't eliminate the issue of unsufficient wattage on the circuit

See 1.

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4) There is no need to change the PSU as virtually all PSU work on 100V to 250V.

True true.

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5) Changing voltage doesn't change the wattage. 100W on 110V is 100W or 240V or 208V or 220V.
Or you could just read the thread.

Me thinks perhaps I should.

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Like I said you managed to get every single thing wrong which is kinda amazing.

I'll blame early mornings for now and return to a topic I know more about.

Stu

DeathAndTaxes

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Gerald Davis

1) Outlets of a PDU have insufficient wattage to run a dryer.
2) US dryers require both 120V & 240V which no PDU outlet supplies
3) Plugging dryer into a PDU (even if possible) doesn't eliminate the issue of unsufficient wattage on the circuit
4) There is no need to change the PSU as virtually all PSU work on 100V to 250V.
5) Changing voltage doesn't change the wattage. 100W on 110V is 100W or 240V or 208V or 220V.

Or you could just read the thread.

Like I said you managed to get every single thing wrong which is kinda amazing.

perlboy

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Quote from: DeathAndTaxes on April 07, 2012, 06:25:43 PM

Quote from: perlboy on April 07, 2012, 06:24:01 PM

To the OP, if you've got a 220V outlet you can look at some datacenter level distribution boards (like the APC 0U PDU system) retailed in countries where 220-240 is native (ie. Australia). That'd get you multiple outlets, hang your dryer off one of them, retrofit your computer PSU with a bunch of Australian ones and the chances are you'll be able to run your rig and the dryer fairly easily (remembering that 110V 100W's is gonna be like 50W for 220V).

Just my 2c, good luck!

Stu

Magically there was absolutely nothing correct about that post.

How so?

DeathAndTaxes

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Gerald Davis

Quote from: perlboy on April 07, 2012, 06:24:01 PM

To the OP, if you've got a 220V outlet you can look at some datacenter level distribution boards (like the APC 0U PDU system) retailed in countries where 220-240 is native (ie. Australia). That'd get you multiple outlets, hang your dryer off one of them, retrofit your computer PSU with a bunch of Australian ones and the chances are you'll be able to run your rig and the dryer fairly easily (remembering that 110V 100W's is gonna be like 50W for 220V).

Just my 2c, good luck!

Stu

Magically there was absolutely nothing correct about that post.

perlboy

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To the OP, if you've got a 220V outlet you can look at some datacenter level distribution boards (like the APC 0U PDU system) retailed in countries where 220-240 is native (ie. Australia). That'd get you multiple outlets, hang your dryer off one of them, retrofit your computer PSU with a bunch of Australian ones and the chances are you'll be able to run your rig and the dryer fairly easily (remembering that 110V 100W's is gonna be like 50W for 220V).

Just my 2c, good luck!

Stu

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Quote from: DeathAndTaxes on April 02, 2012, 11:55:33 AM

Quote from: d3m0n1q_733rz on April 02, 2012, 11:53:40 AM

All this talk about capacitive loads, current draw and the like really has me glad that I use a PFC on my house. Grin

Please tell me you are kidding. Whole house PFC are snake oil in a box. Completely worthless.

Low power power factor increases phantom load observed by power company (and their cost) but power meters measure watts not volt amps so low powerfactor has no cost to residential users. High demand industrial consumers are penalized for having a poor PF but residences are not. PF isn't even calculated for residential users. If you wanted to you could intentionally reduce your PF to stick it to the power company (same amount of work at same amount of cost to you and higher cost to power company).

Correct. The device saves the power company money, not you. Because some meters show the savings, demonstrations are shown using those meters to convince people to buy.

http://www.nist.gov/pml/div684/power_121509.cfm

There is only one SLIGHT grain of truth to them.... they may make very old motors slightly more efficient and run cooler. But if your fridge or AC was built in the last 20 years it is probably not one of them.

MrTeal

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Quote from: DeathAndTaxes on April 02, 2012, 11:55:33 AM

Quote from: d3m0n1q_733rz on April 02, 2012, 11:53:40 AM

All this talk about capacitive loads, current draw and the like really has me glad that I use a PFC on my house. Grin

Please tell me you are kidding. Whole house PFC are snake oil in a box. Completely worthless.

Power power factor increases phantom load observed by power company but power meters measure watts not volt amps. High usage industrial consumers are penalized for having a poor PF but residences are not.

What are you talking about? I installed one of these in my car along with a 200MPG carb and a rare-earth magnet super-generator, and now I can drive anywhere I want without using gas AND power my rig at the same time. they're great.

*Available to anecdotal endorsements.

DeathAndTaxes

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Gerald Davis

Quote from: d3m0n1q_733rz on April 02, 2012, 11:53:40 AM

All this talk about capacitive loads, current draw and the like really has me glad that I use a PFC on my house. Grin

Please tell me you are kidding. Whole house PFC are snake oil in a box. Completely worthless.

Low power power factor increases phantom load observed by power company (and their cost) but power meters measure watts not volt amps so low powerfactor has no cost to residential users. High demand industrial consumers are penalized for having a poor PF but residences are not. PF isn't even calculated for residential users. If you wanted to you could intentionally reduce your PF to stick it to the power company (same amount of work at same amount of cost to you and higher cost to power company).

d3m0n1q_733rz

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All this talk about capacitive loads, current draw and the like really has me glad that I use a PFC on my house. Grin

MrTeal

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Quote from: silverbox on April 02, 2012, 09:41:54 AM

I'll take my chances Wink

. Most likely shit won't happen Wink

.

Lotto tickets are a better deal then insurance Wink

Depends on the insurance.

silverbox

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I'll take my chances Wink

. Most likely shit won't happen Wink

.

Lotto tickets are a better deal then insurance Wink

rjk

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1ngldh

Quote from: silverbox on April 01, 2012, 12:40:54 AM

Quote from: bitcool on March 31, 2012, 09:49:19 PM

Quote from: silverbox on March 31, 2012, 09:08:46 PM

What the heck is this homeowners insurance you all keep talking about..

it's a way to burn your house down and get out of the upside-down mortgage.

then your will either get a newer bigger house, or move to a government subsidized boarding facility.

Ahh so I only need it if I'm going to burn my house down. Gotcha.

Or get it flooded, or hit by lighting, or blown away by a tornado, or rammed by a stray car, or whatever. Shit happens.

silverbox

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Quote from: bitcool on March 31, 2012, 09:49:19 PM

Quote from: silverbox on March 31, 2012, 09:08:46 PM

What the heck is this homeowners insurance you all keep talking about..

it's a way to burn your house down and get out of the upside-down mortgage.

then your will either get a newer bigger house, or move to a government subsidized boarding facility.

Ahh so I only need it if I'm going to burn my house down. Gotcha.

bitcool

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Live and enjoy experiments

Quote from: silverbox on March 31, 2012, 09:08:46 PM

What the heck is this homeowners insurance you all keep talking about..

it's a way to burn your house down and get out of the upside-down mortgage.

then your will either get a newer bigger house, or move to a government subsidized boarding facility.

Beaflag VonRathburg

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I thought about doing the exact same thing for a while. The issue I had was finding an affordable outlet, wiring, power strip / pdu, etc... I gave up on that and was planning on running a 30amp line down into my garage as I could get some of the parts from work for free. While I was working on planning out how to run the new line I ended up finding that someone had previously chained a second line off of my 240v 20amp air conditioner breaker and decided to use that.

I bought a dual 6-20 outlet and two universal 240v power strips for less than $100. This setup can hold over 4000 continuous watts of electricity. With my current estimated 2.222 KW setup I could of run it off of a single power strip, but wanted to have the second one for expansion purposes. If I was you I'd price out what it would cost to run an extra line and run more of a standard house (6-15 / 20) outlet. If you're main breaker can take the extra amps you could probably run a 50 amp breaker and wire it into five 10 amp outlets using a MWBC. With that you could use cheap 13 amp power strips and expand as you need it.

silverbox

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What the heck is this homeowners insurance you all keep talking about..

RobertRibbeck

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How about the electric range outlet ??
If you don't have an electric stove

If you have electric stove and electric drier just punt another breaker in the box and a new properly sized line for mining... no hassle or worry leaching power to mners if wifey uses the appliances

and btw check you home owners insurance diy electrical work may not be covered
If not done by a licensed electrician and/or inspected if there is a fire

MrTeal

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Pipe the hot air into your central air. Heats the whole house, and take the place of a humidifier. It's win win.

bitcool

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Quote from: Valalvax on March 30, 2012, 09:30:57 PM

Because moist air is a bad thing for PCs

Never thought about that Wink

No, I was just kidding. We all kind of went overboard, a little.

Topic: Using a 220V wash machine outlet for power..... (Read 10781 times)