What's Bitminter's server time based on, which time clock?
It shows that it's the 6th already yet its still 10:00PM EST on the 5th of November.
Topic: [1050 TH] BitMinter.com [1% PPLNS,Pays TxFees +MergedMining,Stratum,GBT,vardiff] - page 129. (Read 837101 times)
November 05, 2013, 10:09:31 PM
November 05, 2013, 09:29:41 PM
Lenovo 45N0058 135W 20V 6.75A
Quote
I know the OEM brick wont run full 20, so I do know thatt yes I will need the brick you specified. Either way I will need to use all 20 port even though 4 of them will be used by fans and the other 16 ASICs.
Sorry if I got on your nerves... I just cant afford to burn something out even if that something is as little as $20.
Sorry if I got on your nerves... I just cant afford to burn something out even if that something is as little as $20.
Its cool the upgraded brick is not cheap and sometimes writing a clear easy to understand explanation is hard for me to do.
I have run my 20 port with 20 sticks I have run it with 16 sticks and 4 fans. all with the better brick.
here is the 20 port in action on the upper left . the better brick is in use.
November 05, 2013, 06:39:47 PM
you use 1 brick at TIME . that hub is a 20 stick hub. THE OEM 90 watt brick is 20 volts and 4.5 amps. the hub converts the 20 volts to 5 volts.
most dc to dc converters are 80%. so the 90 watt oem brick only has 90 x .8 = 72 real watts the 20 sticks pull about 2.5 -3 watts constantly or 60 watts . to run gear 24 /7/365 80% of max is a safe number... so 80% of the 72 real watts is 57.6 watts. This means that the oem brick can safely deliver 57.6 watts under 'perfect' conditions. since your 20 sticks may pull up to 60 watts the oem brick is short just a little.. but the brick I pointed out is 135 watts with the jack an exact match.
So 135 x 80% = 108 real watts at 5 volts then 80% of that is 86.4 watts which is over and above the 60 watts needed.
So the tock brick is just a paper weiht then, I thought you meant you used both bricks lol.most dc to dc converters are 80%. so the 90 watt oem brick only has 90 x .8 = 72 real watts the 20 sticks pull about 2.5 -3 watts constantly or 60 watts . to run gear 24 /7/365 80% of max is a safe number... so 80% of the 72 real watts is 57.6 watts. This means that the oem brick can safely deliver 57.6 watts under 'perfect' conditions. since your 20 sticks may pull up to 60 watts the oem brick is short just a little.. but the brick I pointed out is 135 watts with the jack an exact match.
So 135 x 80% = 108 real watts at 5 volts then 80% of that is 86.4 watts which is over and above the 60 watts needed.
I'm still lost in the math on the replacement brick, I thouht you always went by the amperage and since 1 amp is 1000ma / 2 ASIC's since each one pulls approx 500ma then the total advertised amps of the replacement brick would do 13 ASIC sicks.
Lenovo 45N0058 135W 20V 6.75A
Even then, the amperage on the stock is 4.5 which would be 7 sticks at 500ma each. I know I'm probably missing something here but I've always seen people discuss the amperae as what matters.
I just dont wana spend money on something to litterally have it blow up on me. I've already invested just under $200 and I don't even have my hub yet, as far as asics go. I could only afford 4 to start off.
okay that 20 port hub can not run 20 sticks with the oem power brick. this is a fact as I own the hub and have tested it with the 20 ports and the oem brick.
if you have this hub just run 14 to 16 sticks and you will be fine.
Sorry if I got on your nerves... I just cant afford to burn something out even if that something is as little as $20.
What's with the string of bad luck the past few days? I'm starting to feel bad for not switching to another pool and instead staying for the Mint Race.
What's this bad luck everyone keeps talkin about, with pools nothins ever guaranteed. November 05, 2013, 06:15:46 PM
What's with the string of bad luck the past few days? I'm starting to feel bad for not switching to another pool and instead staying for the Mint Race.
November 05, 2013, 04:45:00 PM
you use 1 brick at TIME . that hub is a 20 stick hub. THE OEM 90 watt brick is 20 volts and 4.5 amps. the hub converts the 20 volts to 5 volts.
most dc to dc converters are 80%. so the 90 watt oem brick only has 90 x .8 = 72 real watts the 20 sticks pull about 2.5 -3 watts constantly or 60 watts . to run gear 24 /7/365 80% of max is a safe number... so 80% of the 72 real watts is 57.6 watts. This means that the oem brick can safely deliver 57.6 watts under 'perfect' conditions. since your 20 sticks may pull up to 60 watts the oem brick is short just a little.. but the brick I pointed out is 135 watts with the jack an exact match.
So 135 x 80% = 108 real watts at 5 volts then 80% of that is 86.4 watts which is over and above the 60 watts needed.
So the tock brick is just a paper weiht then, I thought you meant you used both bricks lol.most dc to dc converters are 80%. so the 90 watt oem brick only has 90 x .8 = 72 real watts the 20 sticks pull about 2.5 -3 watts constantly or 60 watts . to run gear 24 /7/365 80% of max is a safe number... so 80% of the 72 real watts is 57.6 watts. This means that the oem brick can safely deliver 57.6 watts under 'perfect' conditions. since your 20 sticks may pull up to 60 watts the oem brick is short just a little.. but the brick I pointed out is 135 watts with the jack an exact match.
So 135 x 80% = 108 real watts at 5 volts then 80% of that is 86.4 watts which is over and above the 60 watts needed.
I'm still lost in the math on the replacement brick, I thouht you always went by the amperage and since 1 amp is 1000ma / 2 ASIC's since each one pulls approx 500ma then the total advertised amps of the replacement brick would do 13 ASIC sicks.
Lenovo 45N0058 135W 20V 6.75A
Even then, the amperage on the stock is 4.5 which would be 7 sticks at 500ma each. I know I'm probably missing something here but I've always seen people discuss the amperae as what matters.
I just dont wana spend money on something to litterally have it blow up on me. I've already invested just under $200 and I don't even have my hub yet, as far as asics go. I could only afford 4 to start off.
okay that 20 port hub can not run 20 sticks with the oem power brick. this is a fact as I own the hub and have tested it with the 20 ports and the oem brick.
if you have this hub just run 14 to 16 sticks and you will be fine.
November 05, 2013, 04:37:47 PM
is it me or the pool hashrate is following the BTC/USD exchange rate...??
The hashrate grows every time DrH calls for more jiggawatts.
November 05, 2013, 03:40:44 PM
is it me or the pool hashrate is following the BTC/USD exchange rate...??
November 05, 2013, 02:32:54 PM
Seems today was the worst luck. 
What happned ? November 05, 2013, 02:21:02 PM
Seems today was the worst luck.
November 05, 2013, 01:19:51 PM
you use 1 brick at TIME . that hub is a 20 stick hub. THE OEM 90 watt brick is 20 volts and 4.5 amps. the hub converts the 20 volts to 5 volts.
most dc to dc converters are 80%. so the 90 watt oem brick only has 90 x .8 = 72 real watts the 20 sticks pull about 2.5 -3 watts constantly or 60 watts . to run gear 24 /7/365 80% of max is a safe number... so 80% of the 72 real watts is 57.6 watts. This means that the oem brick can safely deliver 57.6 watts under 'perfect' conditions. since your 20 sticks may pull up to 60 watts the oem brick is short just a little.. but the brick I pointed out is 135 watts with the jack an exact match.
So 135 x 80% = 108 real watts at 5 volts then 80% of that is 86.4 watts which is over and above the 60 watts needed.
So the tock brick is just a paper weiht then, I thought you meant you used both bricks lol.most dc to dc converters are 80%. so the 90 watt oem brick only has 90 x .8 = 72 real watts the 20 sticks pull about 2.5 -3 watts constantly or 60 watts . to run gear 24 /7/365 80% of max is a safe number... so 80% of the 72 real watts is 57.6 watts. This means that the oem brick can safely deliver 57.6 watts under 'perfect' conditions. since your 20 sticks may pull up to 60 watts the oem brick is short just a little.. but the brick I pointed out is 135 watts with the jack an exact match.
So 135 x 80% = 108 real watts at 5 volts then 80% of that is 86.4 watts which is over and above the 60 watts needed.
I'm still lost in the math on the replacement brick, I thouht you always went by the amperage and since 1 amp is 1000ma / 2 ASIC's since each one pulls approx 500ma then the total advertised amps of the replacement brick would do 13 ASIC sicks.
Lenovo 45N0058 135W 20V 6.75A
Even then, the amperage on the stock is 4.5 which would be 7 sticks at 500ma each. I know I'm probably missing something here but I've always seen people discuss the amperae as what matters.
I just dont wana spend money on something to litterally have it blow up on me. I've already invested just under $200 and I don't even have my hub yet, as far as asics go. I could only afford 4 to start off.
November 05, 2013, 10:24:42 AM
DrHaribo, if I have the prepay BTC perk turned on, should I ever see any BTC in the "unconfirmed" column under account details?
You wouldn't normally see it. But it takes a few seconds for the pool to distribute funds to miners after a block is found. It also takes a few seconds after that for cash out to happen for those who are over the threshold.
Have patience, and don't stare at the screen waiting for blocks - it causes bad luck
Ah, okay - so it was my fault! I'll try not to be such a compulsive reloader.
November 05, 2013, 09:39:52 AM
Hello all...I have been away from the mining (BitMinter) game for awhile...is graphic card mining "officially dead" now? Is around 500 Mhps even worth doing anymore? 2nd question: are those USB stick ASIC miners any good/worth it (seem much cheaper, but what about "value"..."per hash price", etc.) Thanks!
I'd suggest looking into scrypt coin mining with a GPU, if your electricity is cheap enough it might be worth it.
The ASIC Miner USB's are still a bit overpriced, but if you can get a good deal they can be worth it. Like buy some from one of the group buys, then sell some on ebay to reduce the unit cost for what you keep.
this is true of the usb sticks. they are close to okay if you buy this
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=303640.420
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=303640.340
50 sticks and a 49 port hub I am running 3x of them on one pc very hard to run this many sticks on 1 pc,
but if running just 1 use 35 of the 49 ports sell the other 15 sticks on ebay and it is pretty good.
November 05, 2013, 09:23:14 AM
Have patience, and don't stare at the screen waiting for blocks - it causes bad luck
and eyesight ;-pStill lookin for that brick answer to my previously posted reply above if anyone can help ;-)
lenovo 135 watt is the next step up . I have that hub with the stock 90 watt and the 135 watt
linky
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0038LYW8O/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used
I got mine on ebay for 35 bucks
more links
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0038LYW8O/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
Best I can tell using both bricks would power 22 ASIC's doesnt leave much for headroom, maybe try two lenovos instead ?
you use 1 brick at TIME . that hub is a 20 stick hub. THE OEM 90 watt brick is 20 volts and 4.5 amps. the hub converts the 20 volts to 5 volts.
most dc to dc converters are 80%. so the 90 watt oem brick only has 90 x .8 = 72 real watts the 20 sticks pull about 2.5 -3 watts constantly or 60 watts . to run gear 24 /7/365 80% of max is a safe number... so 80% of the 72 real watts is 57.6 watts. This means that the oem brick can safely deliver 57.6 watts under 'perfect' conditions. since your 20 sticks may pull up to 60 watts the oem brick is short just a little.. but the brick I pointed out is 135 watts with the jack an exact match.
So 135 x 80% = 108 real watts at 5 volts then 80% of that is 86.4 watts which is over and above the 60 watts needed.
November 05, 2013, 04:07:24 AM
Hello all...I have been away from the mining (BitMinter) game for awhile...is graphic card mining "officially dead" now? Is around 500 Mhps even worth doing anymore? 2nd question: are those USB stick ASIC miners any good/worth it (seem much cheaper, but what about "value"..."per hash price", etc.) Thanks!
I'd suggest looking into scrypt coin mining with a GPU, if your electricity is cheap enough it might be worth it.
The ASIC Miner USB's are still a bit overpriced, but if you can get a good deal they can be worth it. Like buy some from one of the group buys, then sell some on ebay to reduce the unit cost for what you keep.
November 05, 2013, 04:00:12 AM
Have patience, and don't stare at the screen waiting for blocks - it causes bad luck
and eyesight ;-pStill lookin for that brick answer to my previously posted reply above if anyone can help ;-)
lenovo 135 watt is the next step up . I have that hub with the stock 90 watt and the 135 watt
linky
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0038LYW8O/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used
I got mine on ebay for 35 bucks
more links
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0038LYW8O/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
Best I can tell using both bricks would power 22 ASIC's doesnt leave much for headroom, maybe try two lenovos instead ?
November 05, 2013, 03:23:53 AM
Hello all...I have been away from the mining (BitMinter) game for awhile...is graphic card mining "officially dead" now? Is around 500 Mhps even worth doing anymore? 2nd question: are those USB stick ASIC miners any good/worth it (seem much cheaper, but what about "value"..."per hash price", etc.) Thanks!
November 04, 2013, 10:53:26 PM
Have patience, and don't stare at the screen waiting for blocks - it causes bad luck
and eyesight ;-pStill lookin for that brick answer to my previously posted reply above if anyone can help ;-)
lenovo 135 watt is the next step up . I have that hub with the stock 90 watt and the 135 watt
linky
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0038LYW8O/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used
I got mine on ebay for 35 bucks
more links
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0038LYW8O/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
November 04, 2013, 08:18:32 PM
Have patience, and don't stare at the screen waiting for blocks - it causes bad luck
and eyesight ;-pStill lookin for that brick answer to my previously posted reply above if anyone can help ;-)
November 04, 2013, 06:01:40 PM
DrHaribo, if I have the prepay BTC perk turned on, should I ever see any BTC in the "unconfirmed" column under account details?
You wouldn't normally see it. But it takes a few seconds for the pool to distribute funds to miners after a block is found. It also takes a few seconds after that for cash out to happen for those who are over the threshold.
Have patience, and don't stare at the screen waiting for blocks - it causes bad luck
November 04, 2013, 05:37:18 PM
the brick below works on a lot of hubs
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-AD-LCD12-Monitors-Adapter-Supply/dp/B000VE7GQQ/ref=pd_cp_pc_1at a time. Do not rush
Best I can tell goin by the amperage is that brick would power what, 12 sticks at max load which would burn it out after a while if it was maxed. That being said, what would be a good brick to replace the one that comes with the below linked item, preferrably one with a little bit of head room so it's not maxed out ?http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-AD-LCD12-Monitors-Adapter-Supply/dp/B000VE7GQQ/ref=pd_cp_pc_1at a time. Do not rush
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151155337245?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1188wt_1170
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