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Topic: Avalon ASIC users thread - page 172. (Read 438387 times)

member
Activity: 111
Merit: 10
June 02, 2013, 11:39:26 PM
Does anyone know how to rest the password on the Avalon unit? Each time I try to log in it says wrong password.


 
sr. member
Activity: 315
Merit: 250
Official sponsor of Microsoft Corp.
June 02, 2013, 03:02:14 PM
WinTame2012:  Interesting idea about the wifi power draw being affected by the antenna.  I had installed 9dB antenna's on mine, which have now been decommissioned, of course.  Above, senseless says that he was not using wifi when the chip was burned, but it was still enabled.  No doubt he wasn't using an antenna, if he wasn't using wifi.  And that is the scenario during which his chip was burned.
Yes, I think the Wi-Fi interface is working in the bridge mode in Avalon so it can still be powered while is 'not used'. And without antenna attached PHY layer have to ramp up its power to have more/less stable signal while just listening around. Xiangfu said that this happens not on all TP-LINK units so probably there is HW bug in some SoC revisions which is related to power management as well.

If anybody with fried USB hub chip care to share his antenna condition (attached or not) this would clear this guess up a lot.
newbie
Activity: 33
Merit: 0
June 02, 2013, 02:30:54 PM
WinTame2012:  Interesting idea about the wifi power draw being affected by the antenna.  I had installed 9dB antenna's on mine, which have now been decommissioned, of course.  Above, senseless says that he was not using wifi when the chip was burned, but it was still enabled.  No doubt he wasn't using an antenna, if he wasn't using wifi.  And that is the scenario during which his chip was burned.

spiccioli:  I think that under the 'interface' tab, where the LAN and WWAN devices are listed, it allows for disabling, if I remember correctly.  Under the wifi tab it offers an option to remove the instance that is setup, below the scan button.  I removed this instance and the WWAN listing on the 'interface' tab had then disappeared.  I am assuming the kernel doesn't load the wifi software/driver, if there is no listing there, but I don't know enough to check this.

ProfMac:  Yes, this is good news.  I do note that the decision to make this change had already been made by the time senseless was in the Avalon irc chat with xiangfu when he learned of the news of this.  I was there with senseless and abracadabra when he was being shown the pics of the burned chip and hearing senseless's news.  ngzhang had communicated to him already that F1 fuse removal was a good idea... and that the remaining batch2/3 unites were being made with the revision.

drakness
legendary
Activity: 1246
Merit: 1001
June 02, 2013, 01:25:00 PM
Just as a cursory reader of this thread it might help if someone posted a picture of the before and after job of what the fuse looks like when it is cut.  Or at least a photo with a very clear arrow pointing to whichever fuse is the culprit.


Is this "fuse" thing specific to Batch 2 units? I've never seen anyone discussing it before Batch 2 started shipping, now it's suddenly a big deal...

It's specific to the v1.5 control module. From what I understand they've already fixed all new batch 2 units shipping out. So if you receive a unit on or after May 29-June 1 it probably already has the fuse removed.



This is evidence that the team is tuning the design.
I myself am glad to know this.
sr. member
Activity: 315
Merit: 250
Official sponsor of Microsoft Corp.
June 02, 2013, 12:45:36 PM
I removed wifi on my batch #2's on Thursday evening... have not cut/removed fused F1, yet.  Wanted to report that the NEC usb hub chip is room temperature, to the touch (during hashing).

Leaving it alone, for now.  Anyone else besides btclvr try the mod?
Batch#2 was shipped w/o antenna...
I've catched a thought last night that chip overheating could take a place when TP-LINK have enabled Wi-Fi module but missing antenna. If TP-LINK implements dynamic power calibration for Wi-Fi PHY lacking of antenna could force it drawing much more power hence USB-hub chip overheating. This is just my deduction though.
legendary
Activity: 1378
Merit: 1003
nec sine labore
June 02, 2013, 12:38:32 PM
I removed wifi on my batch #2's on Thursday evening... have not cut/removed fused F1, yet.  Wanted to report that the NEC usb hub chip is room temperature, to the touch (during hashing).

Leaving it alone, for now.  Anyone else besides btclvr try the mod?

Drakness, 

There are two options on the GUI: disable wifi and remove wifi, which one did you choose?

I've disabled it friday evening and since then my units have been hashing without problems. In a couple of days I'll stop one and open it to see if chips on the control board show signs of overheating.

spiccioli
newbie
Activity: 33
Merit: 0
June 02, 2013, 09:30:00 AM
I removed wifi on my batch #2's on Thursday evening... have not cut/removed fused F1, yet.  Wanted to report that the NEC usb hub chip is room temperature, to the touch (during hashing).

Leaving it alone, for now.  Anyone else besides btclvr try the mod?
legendary
Activity: 1378
Merit: 1003
nec sine labore
June 01, 2013, 02:55:50 PM
Anyone with a successful removal of fuse F1, yet?

Yes, I removed it from my Avalon and all appears to be working again. The fuse would not pop completely off the pads but enough of it has been removed to open the circuit. It was more of a cut than a removal. A better soldering station might have helped.

Had you noticed any overheating of the NEC usb hub chip?

There were no signs of damage from heat and the Avalon has been stable before and after the mod was performed. The component temperature was not measured.

Btclvr,
are you, were you using wifi ?

spiccioli
newbie
Activity: 29
Merit: 0
June 01, 2013, 01:33:30 PM
Anyone with a successful removal of fuse F1, yet?

Yes, I removed it from my Avalon and all appears to be working again. The fuse would not pop completely off the pads but enough of it has been removed to open the circuit. It was more of a cut than a removal. A better soldering station might have helped.

Had you noticed any overheating of the NEC usb hub chip?

There were no signs of damage from heat and the Avalon has been stable before and after the mod was performed. The component temperature was not measured.
hero member
Activity: 742
Merit: 500
Circle gets the Square
June 01, 2013, 12:29:15 PM
Just as a cursory reader of this thread it might help if someone posted a picture of the before and after job of what the fuse looks like when it is cut.  Or at least a photo with a very clear arrow pointing to whichever fuse is the culprit.


hero member
Activity: 1118
Merit: 541
June 01, 2013, 12:24:33 PM
Just as a cursory reader of this thread it might help if someone posted a picture of the before and after job of what the fuse looks like when it is cut.  Or at least a photo with a very clear arrow pointing to whichever fuse is the culprit.


Is this "fuse" thing specific to Batch 2 units? I've never seen anyone discussing it before Batch 2 started shipping, now it's suddenly a big deal...

It's specific to the v1.5 control module. From what I understand they've already fixed all new batch 2 units shipping out. So if you receive a unit on or after May 29-June 1 it probably already has the fuse removed.

sr. member
Activity: 367
Merit: 250
Find me at Bitrated
June 01, 2013, 12:15:20 PM
Just as a cursory reader of this thread it might help if someone posted a picture of the before and after job of what the fuse looks like when it is cut.  Or at least a photo with a very clear arrow pointing to whichever fuse is the culprit.
hero member
Activity: 742
Merit: 500
Circle gets the Square
June 01, 2013, 09:56:55 AM
Mine wasn't even warm, but I removed it anyway...better safe than sorry.
hero member
Activity: 956
Merit: 1001
June 01, 2013, 09:49:13 AM
Anyone with a successful removal of fuse F1, yet?

Yes, I removed it from my Avalon and all appears to be working again. The fuse would not pop completely off the pads but enough of it has been removed to open the circuit. It was more of a cut than a removal. A better soldering station might have helped.

Had you noticed any overheating of the NEC usb hub chip?
newbie
Activity: 29
Merit: 0
June 01, 2013, 12:09:54 AM
Anyone with a successful removal of fuse F1, yet?

Yes, I removed it from my Avalon and all appears to be working again. The fuse would not pop completely off the pads but enough of it has been removed to open the circuit. It was more of a cut than a removal. A better soldering station might have helped.
newbie
Activity: 33
Merit: 0
May 31, 2013, 01:31:57 PM
Anyone with a successful removal of fuse F1, yet?
hero member
Activity: 1118
Merit: 541
May 31, 2013, 01:11:23 PM
I finally got altium viewer installed and looked at the board designs. Removing J1 would remove all power to the USB. But you would need to power the tp-link by some other means

You are reading it wrong Smiley F1 powers USB-A1, nothing is connected there. The tp-link is connected to USB-B1.


First time reading one of these things, I'm going blind! What a horribly tedious job designing this stuff must be.

At least it's an easy fix for anyone who's cloning the avalon design. Should just be able to delete the one pathway that leads back to the usb-hub from the usb-a1, no?

mrb
legendary
Activity: 1512
Merit: 1027
May 31, 2013, 01:06:53 PM
I finally got altium viewer installed and looked at the board designs. Removing J1 would remove all power to the USB. But you would need to power the tp-link by some other means

You are reading it wrong Smiley F1 powers USB-A1, nothing is connected there. The tp-link is connected to USB-B1.
mrb
legendary
Activity: 1512
Merit: 1027
May 31, 2013, 01:04:32 PM
Thank you for the explanation. Another question that I haven't been able to find an answer for. Why does removing the fuse matter if there is nothing plugged into the port?

Because the fuse supplies 5V to both USB-A1 (unused) and to the USB hub (which is supposed to get 3.3V).
Removing it makes USB-A1 unpowered (we don't care) and stops the overvoltage of the USB hub (which is okay with 0V/GND on this pin).

From the link to github I read BitSyncom answer where he says: "Thanks, this is true, will cause the chip to be about ~20C higher than avg, which is still fine [...]"

So, adding a small heat sink could be a "simpler" solution, isn't it?

With all due respect to Yifu, I think he is too negligent here. I don't think it is "fine". We all saw senseless' picture of a melting chip package. And nobody has enough data to proves whether a heatsink is sufficient or not. Even if it helps, the chip's pin input is still being overvolted, so it is still reducing its operating life...
hero member
Activity: 1118
Merit: 541
May 31, 2013, 12:56:29 PM
Disabling wifi was always a good idea.

Hard line is far more reliable in general, rather than suffer a wifi drop at a bad moment (submitting a difficulty 64 hash).  It also uses less memory.

I wasn't using it, it just wasn't disabled.

Bump senseless's question.

If F1 is the power line to USB-A1... if nothing is plugged into USB-A1, how is this causing too much power to be drawn from the control board?  Perhaps that is why Bitsyncom said "this is fine"?

I finally got altium viewer installed and looked at the board designs. The fuse definitely needs to be removed.

I thought maybe you could just remove the J1 jumper, but it looks like the usb-hub chip will still be overvolted unless the fuse is removed.
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