Topic: GekkoScience 2Pac/Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread - page 95. (Read 177300 times)

Yes.  Which part are you referring to?  Power issues aside, the stick should not be responding to my touch.  I've pretty much verified it's defective at this point.

@tykom  Are you sure you read the above posts?

I'm attempting to mine with the 2Pac on a Raspberry Pi (Pi is powered by 2.1A supply).  When I plug the stick in to my RPi or an adequately powered hub (device shows up with lsusb and /var/log/syslog) the LED turns green.  If the voltage is set between ~1.26V and ~1.56V the LED will turn blue anytime I touch the heatsink or its screws and return to green when I release.  If the voltage is over 1.56V the light will stay blue until the stick is removed or powered off.  I think this unit has a short somewhere, that seems like very odd behavior.  Can anyone shed some light on this?  I also can't get it to work in cgminer.  I've followed all the tutorials in the official thread and everywhere else I could find.  cgminer can't detect the stick, the only time I get close is if I set the voltage to ~1.32V, put my finger on the heatsink so the LED is blue, then start cgminer with /cgminer --userpass myusername.2pac:anything --url stratum+tcp://stratum.slushpool.com:3333.  It will start cgminer but will not continue until I remove my finger from the heatsink which then outputs:
Found 0 chip(s) on GSD 0
GSD 0 failure, disabling!

The miner will then go into zombie mode and cannot be re-enabled through the USB management options.  I have tried all the voltages along with the --gekko-2pac-freq flag.  I'd love to hear that I'm just an idiot and the stick works fine but the touch issue seems abnormal.  Thanks in advance!

edit - just saw the posts above mine with the same issue, all power requirements aside, is the stick behavior normal in that it responds to my touch?  I believe that indicates a short although the voltage seems to be reading and adjusting correctly when I turn the pot.

http://imgur.com/lj2wWaC
http://imgur.com/KpSlQOC

If you're really careful you can power a Pi by the GPIO connector.  There are 3 5 volt pins and probably at least 3 grounds (in the 40 pin version).  Get a pinout, then cut down an old hard drive cable so you're hooking the right voltage to the right pins.  For older Pis use a floppy cable.

yep  my method above  has multiple cables  and the weak spot is the tiny freaking micro connection!


the older rasp pi's allowed for a mini connector which I prefer.

And if you're running the 2Pac off the Pi's USB, there's current limiting to USBs built into the Pi and even if that's not the problem you're pulling 2A through a weak-sauce USB Micro connection which is not a good idea long-term.

Better to find a good hub that can power the Pi and the stick in parallel.

Do not argue when you do not understand what you are saying.

A 2.5 amp adapter 5.2 volt rating is based on a +~ 5 percent.

So for argument let's say the rating is exact .

24/7/365 running means de rate by 80%

So the best that the hub should do 24/7/365 is 2amps

Since the rasp pi uses some of that. The best the stick is getting is under 2 amps.

And. The feed would need 0 loss from the ax plug to the USB jack.  Which can't be done by any know science .

This is why it fails.

If you use a quality wall wart charger from anker to feed the rasp pi and a y cable you would be fine.

I have a link from Amazon give me a minute .
 yours gives 10-11 watts at best this does 24 watts at best
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-2-Port-Charger-PowerPort-PowerIQ/dp/B01LCDJ7LG/ref=sr_1_11?

if your rasp pi uses a mini for power
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2HABMY1-Cable-External-Drive/dp/B003WV5DMO/ref=sr_1_7?

if your rasp pi uses a micro for power.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2HAUBY1-Cable-External-Drive/dp/B0047AALW6/ref=sr_1_1?


wall outlet--- anker charger ----- proper y cable ------ rasp pi ------- 2 pac

you can run a 2 pac with setup above.





and if you want to push the 2 pac (freq 200 or more) plug this into the rasp pi then plug the compac stick into it.

https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM/ref=sr_1_4?

this needs a fan!

If you look at post 383 (scroll up on this page), you will see that I posted this exact same problem with the solution that fixed my problem.

UM...No...maybe a single Compac but a 2Pac + Pi ...the Pi just won't share.

um it is using an adaptor that gos into the wall @ DC 5,2v  2.5A it should be more then enough to power a pi + 2pac stick

Try connecting the Pi3b to a different power source of at least 2.1A.

Hello all i am using raspberry pi 3b for the 2pac stick, but im having issues finding the device

Bus 1 Device 24 ID: 10c4:ea60 GekkoScience 2Pac BM1384 Bitcoin Miner inactive
1 total known USB device
Hotplug interval:5
0 USB devices, 0 enabled, 0 disabled, 0 zombie

it does reconize it but shows it as inactive, can anyone tell me in a noob step to step guide how to solve this?? becuase i dont even know how and where to adjust the frec or anything basicly.
ive did the install as the first page told me so and it only seems to be this issue so far, maybe to know i cant afford a hub yet so my 2pac is connected to my raspberry pi 3b

much apreciated!!

Suggestion:  Make that critical Vcore voltage easier to measure by putting a pin jack there so you can stick a probe into it.  Or even cheaper just a tiny piece of wire with a loop bent in it that you can hook a clip onto.  It is officially a test point.  I'm reluctant to adjust mine for fear the probe will go skidding off and short something out while I'm trying to turn the pot with the other hand.  I'm a lot clumsier and more blind than I was at 20.

As long as the trace has a plated-through hole in it it could be retrofit by soldering one of these into it:

More specifically, in post https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.17678108 and the one after it.

The pot is only a 1-turn device but has no stops, just goes round and round. Turn far enough CW and it jumps from max to min voltage then ramps up again as you turn.  Gotta look REAL closely at the wiper you turn. I does have an identifying mark to use as reference where it is pointed.

EDIT: Just saw new post. Turning far enough CCW makes it jump from min voltage to Max and then down again...

Prior to posting my question, I read the ENTIRE thread. You are probably referring to the posts listed below, but they don't answer my specific question. Yes, I understand the potentiometer turns continuously. Why would turning it counter-clockwise cause it to run hotter? Thanks for your help nonetheless if you feel I'm asking questions that have already been answered.

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.17678108
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.17678611
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.18628052

Pretty sure that's already been documented a couple times, probably with pictures.

I know you're going to tell me to buy a multimeter, but for now, can you explain the operation of the potentiometer? I know it spins continuously but does voltage keep going up with multiple turns? Or is the voltage range found in a complete 360 degree turn? I had turned it counter clockwise by half a turn, but now it's running so hot (100mhz) that I can't touch it all at. Is there a way I can set it to the minimum voltage and work my way up?

Power use increases with voltage and with frequency. If the board is discoloring it's way too hot. If it's too hot to touch it's way too hot. If it's way too hot you need to be cooling it.

And if it's way too hot at 100MHz the voltage is turned up way too far.

Even at 100Mhz, my 2Pac runs so hot that I cannot touch the heatsink. The board is starting to yellow due to the heat. Is this a function of voltage and an I get to to run cooler with higher (or lower voltage)?

The majority of problems people have with these sticks, especially if trying to run past 150MHz, can be solved by adjusting the voltage. That, and using a non-crappy hub, will fix almost everything.