Topic: GekkoScience Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread - page 101. (Read 268015 times)
November 08, 2015, 05:59:00 AM
I wonder if the reason Raspberry Pi's dont like powered USB 3.0 hubs is because all Pi's use USB 2.0?
November 08, 2015, 04:43:04 AM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1JM2KX2792
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/asicpuppynet-terminus-moonlander-2-2pacs-in-stock-btcltcethbch-612390
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/asicpuppynet-terminus-moonlander-2-2pacs-in-stock-btcltcethbch-612390
That looks like a decent hub 12v x 5A
.Thanks for the link, sending crazyguy a message now
. November 08, 2015, 04:12:29 AM
Interesting...I remember on S1 thread everyone was so helpful.
I think thats because there were many more people buying and setting up S1s than there are these sticks. Plus S1s were very easy to set up. These are still pretty new and people are finding out what works and what doesn't.
I will repeat my two questions one more time:
1. Is it better to run these sticks on USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 powered hubs? I already have candidates to order in each case.
1. Is it better to run these sticks on USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 powered hubs? I already have candidates to order in each case.
From what I understand Raspberry Pis will not work with USB 3.0 so you need a 2.0. Problem is even the good ones will struggle with a few of these sticks overclocked.
Another answer here: https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.12898156
2. can someone provide a simple setup for using rasp pi in conjuction with these sticks.
All i need to know what to order, i will try to figure out software by myself.
BTW, Pi connects to its own power source, then to computer via usb or to router directly?
then you connect USB 2.0 hub to pi and stick sticks into the hub?
All i need to know what to order, i will try to figure out software by myself.
BTW, Pi connects to its own power source, then to computer via usb or to router directly?
then you connect USB 2.0 hub to pi and stick sticks into the hub?
I had a reply with links when I asked the same question: https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.12893784
Raspberry Pi acts as controller so it connects directly to hub to control your sticks. No need to have Pi connected to a pc.
I'm not exactly sure how to set it up as I haven't done it myself. When I do I'll make notes and share
.Crazyguy is selling Raspberry Pi's with pre-installed software to run these sticks: https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/asicpuppynet-terminus-moonlander-2-2pacs-in-stock-btcltcethbch-612390
Thanks hurricandave for the link
.Or you can download image compiled by edonkey as mentioned in the first post of this thread ( I'm downloading it now ):
I have not yet tested it but edonkey was nice enough to upload a custom minera image with cgminer-gekko enabled as a custom miner. You can set the frequency under manual options as: --compac-freq 150. Link:
https://dbtbmm05cubzd.cloudfront.net/cryptocurrency/mods/minera_compac_mod.zip
https://dbtbmm05cubzd.cloudfront.net/cryptocurrency/mods/minera_compac_mod.zip
Thanks edonkey
November 08, 2015, 01:03:08 AM
Interesting...I remember on S1 thread everyone was so helpful.
I will repeat my two questions one more time:
1. Is it better to run these sticks on USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 powered hubs? I already have candidates to order in each case.
2. can someone provide a simple setup for using rasp pi in conjuction with these sticks.
All i need to know what to order, i will try to figure out software by myself.
BTW, Pi connects to its own power source, then to computer via usb or to router directly?
then you connect USB 2.0 hub to pi and stick sticks into the hub?
I will repeat my two questions one more time:
1. Is it better to run these sticks on USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 powered hubs? I already have candidates to order in each case.
2. can someone provide a simple setup for using rasp pi in conjuction with these sticks.
All i need to know what to order, i will try to figure out software by myself.
BTW, Pi connects to its own power source, then to computer via usb or to router directly?
then you connect USB 2.0 hub to pi and stick sticks into the hub?
2. Pi to the router with cat 5 or cat 6 cable, usb 2.0 hub to the pi, and sticks in the hub. That's the easiest set-up, if you got room to set it up by the router or an easy path to run the cat cable.
November 07, 2015, 08:22:01 PM
Interesting...I remember on S1 thread everyone was so helpful.
I will repeat my two questions one more time:
1. Is it better to run these sticks on USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 powered hubs? I already have candidates to order in each case.
2. can someone provide a simple setup for using rasp pi in conjuction with these sticks.
All i need to know what to order, i will try to figure out software by myself.
BTW, Pi connects to its own power source, then to computer via usb or to router directly?
then you connect USB 2.0 hub to pi and stick sticks into the hub?
I will repeat my two questions one more time:
1. Is it better to run these sticks on USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 powered hubs? I already have candidates to order in each case.
2. can someone provide a simple setup for using rasp pi in conjuction with these sticks.
All i need to know what to order, i will try to figure out software by myself.
BTW, Pi connects to its own power source, then to computer via usb or to router directly?
then you connect USB 2.0 hub to pi and stick sticks into the hub?
2. rpi uses its own ethernet connection.
(to make things more confusing, they also support PoE, than it does not require its own power source, you need a router that supports it tho, lets not get into that)
November 07, 2015, 07:06:20 PM
Interesting...I remember on S1 thread everyone was so helpful.
I will repeat my two questions one more time:
1. Is it better to run these sticks on USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 powered hubs? I already have candidates to order in each case.
2. can someone provide a simple setup for using rasp pi in conjuction with these sticks.
All i need to know what to order, i will try to figure out software by myself.
BTW, Pi connects to its own power source, then to computer via usb or to router directly?
then you connect USB 2.0 hub to pi and stick sticks into the hub?
I will repeat my two questions one more time:
1. Is it better to run these sticks on USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 powered hubs? I already have candidates to order in each case.
2. can someone provide a simple setup for using rasp pi in conjuction with these sticks.
All i need to know what to order, i will try to figure out software by myself.
BTW, Pi connects to its own power source, then to computer via usb or to router directly?
then you connect USB 2.0 hub to pi and stick sticks into the hub?
November 07, 2015, 03:11:48 PM
Alternatively, I can just connect that nonpowered stick into PC and Pi into it and have Anker setup just for sticks.
Will Pi work then
You mean:
Plug unpowered hub in PC (as a regular hub)
Then plug the RPI in the hub as you would a printer or memory key ?
You'll need a USB A male to USB A male cable and you will probably get pretty unexpected behaviour
November 07, 2015, 03:05:12 PM
Anybody have an opinion on Orico 10 port/3A vs Orico 9 ports/2.5A (this one says hot swappable, but 10 ports does not say it) or Etekcity 10 ports/2.5A?
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
I'm still quite confused too. From what I think though is that the Raspberry Pi's doesnt like many USB 3.0 powered hubs, but USB 3.0 provides the extra power required to run these sticks overclocked. I've got an Anker 60w USB 3.0 powered hub on order I'll let everyone know if it works once I've had a chance to test it.
I'm running 2 sticks via USB 2.0 ports on the front of a pc @ 150Mhz (stock speed) and they've been running perfectly for about 24 hours now although you could fry an egg on the heatsinks
. I would however like to run them overclocked via a Pi and hub and add more sticks with cooling too.
The PI does not like 3.0 at all. You are doing much easier to go with usb 2.0. You might adjust voltage and see if that lowers heat a little bit.
Or you can add a fan, even a regular PC fan will help compared to passive cooling. That is what I used for cooling mine down.
Tbh I ordered the USB 3.0 hub and it had been dispatched before I read about the issues so I'll try when it arrives if it doesn't work I'll send it back and get a USB 2.0 instead.
Thanks for the voltage suggestion, I'll have a play with the voltage to see if I can reduce the heat as my digital USB voltage meter arrived today
. November 07, 2015, 03:04:40 PM
Anybody have an opinion on Orico 10 port/3A vs Orico 9 ports/2.5A (this one says hot swappable, but 10 ports does not say it) or Etekcity 10 ports/2.5A?
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
I'm still quite confused too. From what I think though is that the Raspberry Pi's doesnt like many USB 3.0 powered hubs, but USB 3.0 provides the extra power required to run these sticks overclocked. I've got an Anker 60w USB 3.0 powered hub on order I'll let everyone know if it works once I've had a chance to test it.
I'm running 2 sticks via USB 2.0 ports on the front of a pc @ 150Mhz (stock speed) and they've been running perfectly for about 24 hours now although you could fry an egg on the heatsinks
. I would however like to run them overclocked via a Pi and hub and add more sticks with cooling too.
The PI does not like 3.0 at all. You are doing much easier to go with usb 2.0. You might adjust voltage and see if that lowers heat a little bit.
Or you can add a fan, even a regular PC fan will help compared to passive cooling. That is what I used for cooling mine down.
what do you think about Anker for sticks (it is powerful at 60W and 5A, but usb 3.0).
If I will be getting Anker, I figure, I just stick a non-powered usb 2 (http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M) into it, then pi into that. Will it work?
Alternatively, I can just connect that nonpowered stick into PC and Pi into it and have Anker setup just for sticks.
Will Pi work then
November 07, 2015, 02:54:42 PM
Hehe, i'm cooling mine with a 80mm fan.
November 07, 2015, 02:52:04 PM
Anybody have an opinion on Orico 10 port/3A vs Orico 9 ports/2.5A (this one says hot swappable, but 10 ports does not say it) or Etekcity 10 ports/2.5A?
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
I'm still quite confused too. From what I think though is that the Raspberry Pi's doesnt like many USB 3.0 powered hubs, but USB 3.0 provides the extra power required to run these sticks overclocked. I've got an Anker 60w USB 3.0 powered hub on order I'll let everyone know if it works once I've had a chance to test it.
I'm running 2 sticks via USB 2.0 ports on the front of a pc @ 150Mhz (stock speed) and they've been running perfectly for about 24 hours now although you could fry an egg on the heatsinks
. I would however like to run them overclocked via a Pi and hub and add more sticks with cooling too.
The PI does not like 3.0 at all. You are doing much easier to go with usb 2.0. You might adjust voltage and see if that lowers heat a little bit.
Or you can add a fan, even a regular PC fan will help compared to passive cooling. That is what I used for cooling mine down.
November 07, 2015, 02:51:16 PM
Mine are running @210Mhs/750mA on the switch mentionned attached to a RPi.
Not rock stable as I have one that stops hashing every so often, but I've yet to figure out why (not always same stick or port or time or duration).
I'm waiting to receive the 4 more I ordered to experiment/troubleshoot.
Not rock stable as I have one that stops hashing every so often, but I've yet to figure out why (not always same stick or port or time or duration).
I'm waiting to receive the 4 more I ordered to experiment/troubleshoot.
November 07, 2015, 02:45:26 PM
Anybody have an opinion on Orico 10 port/3A vs Orico 9 ports/2.5A (this one says hot swappable, but 10 ports does not say it) or Etekcity 10 ports/2.5A?
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
I'm still quite confused too. From what I think though is that the Raspberry Pi's doesnt like many USB 3.0 powered hubs, but USB 3.0 provides the extra power required to run these sticks overclocked. I've got an Anker 60w USB 3.0 powered hub on order I'll let everyone know if it works once I've had a chance to test it.
I'm running 2 sticks via USB 2.0 ports on the front of a pc @ 150Mhz (stock speed) and they've been running perfectly for about 24 hours now although you could fry an egg on the heatsinks
. I would however like to run them overclocked via a Pi and hub and add more sticks with cooling too.
November 07, 2015, 02:31:24 PM
Has to be USB 2 for RPi
See there for tests (with block erupters, so you'll have to calculate how many compac sticks it'll support as they're using more power)
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/which-usb-hub-to-use-with-block-erupters-nanofury-nf1-bpmc-red-fury-ant-u1-253749
I'd say it would have to be USB 3 as they deliver up to 900mA/port versus 500mA f USB 2....
And the stick uses from 550mA to 800mA.
That being said I currently run 2 @ 750mA on a DUB-H7 USB2...
So I confuse myself :p
See there for tests (with block erupters, so you'll have to calculate how many compac sticks it'll support as they're using more power)
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/which-usb-hub-to-use-with-block-erupters-nanofury-nf1-bpmc-red-fury-ant-u1-253749
I'd say it would have to be USB 3 as they deliver up to 900mA/port versus 500mA f USB 2....
And the stick uses from 550mA to 800mA.
That being said I currently run 2 @ 750mA on a DUB-H7 USB2...
So I confuse myself :p
November 07, 2015, 02:04:54 PM
Anybody has an opinion on Orico 10 port/3A vs Orico 9 ports/2.5A (this one says hot swappable, but 10 ports does not say it) or Etekcity 10 ports/2.5A?
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
Or any other (better) in the same $12-$25 category.
Or, maybe Anker is better at $35, although it is USB 3.0
Does it have to be USB 2.0 or could be USB 3.0, if I eventually might use Pi as well.
Thanks, much obliged.
November 06, 2015, 05:29:17 PM
My 2 x sticks arrived today. They have now been running for nearly 4 hours on cgminer perfectly .
Running them @ 150 for now as they're on my spare pc usb ports without cooling:
I'll ideally have them running on Raspberry Pi with powered hub and fan in a few days when extra equipment arrives.
.Running them @ 150 for now as they're on my spare pc usb ports without cooling:
I'll ideally have them running on Raspberry Pi with powered hub and fan in a few days when extra equipment arrives
. November 06, 2015, 03:57:29 AM
On the other hand, bfgminer 5.4 is supposed to support both already so I could switch to bfgminer
(although I've tried a bit and I get my gekko and bfl working (more or less succesfully) but not my U3)
Try -S antminer:\\.\COMn where COMn is the port your U3 shows on.(although I've tried a bit and I get my gekko and bfl working (more or less succesfully) but not my U3)
Note you may need to un-Zadig to get the normal drivers first.
(If you don't use Windows, put -S antminer:/dev/ttyUSBn instead.)
Thank you Luke !
I'll give it a go.
my goal is to run the following on my RPI:
HUB1: 6 gekko sticks (2 running, 4 in transit) => currently on RPI
HUB2: 4 block erupters => currently on win10/multiminer
HUB3: 3 Antminer U3 + 1 BFL 30Ghs => currently on win2012/cgminer 4.9.2
as I have an assortment of USB hub, I'll see which combination works best.
November 06, 2015, 03:12:55 AM
How to kill your Sidehack Sticks.
I suppose it had to happen to someone, appears that someone is me.
I found this gigabyte sticker from a sound card or something that had adhesive left on it.
So I tore it in half and pasted a piece over the leds on my two sticks. Turns out (a little too late) that the sticker is metallic.
Ran fine when I hit the hay, but a few hours later I woke and checked things and everything had gone to to hell.
Evidently I shorted something out. Is there any hope for these guys?
I suppose it had to happen to someone, appears that someone is me.
I found this gigabyte sticker from a sound card or something that had adhesive left on it.
So I tore it in half and pasted a piece over the leds on my two sticks. Turns out (a little too late) that the sticker is metallic.
Ran fine when I hit the hay, but a few hours later I woke and checked things and everything had gone to to hell.
Evidently I shorted something out. Is there any hope for these guys?
November 06, 2015, 03:09:41 AM
On the other hand, bfgminer 5.4 is supposed to support both already so I could switch to bfgminer
(although I've tried a bit and I get my gekko and bfl working (more or less succesfully) but not my U3)
Try -S antminer:\\.\COMn where COMn is the port your U3 shows on.(although I've tried a bit and I get my gekko and bfl working (more or less succesfully) but not my U3)
Note you may need to un-Zadig to get the normal drivers first.
(If you don't use Windows, put -S antminer:/dev/ttyUSBn instead.)
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