GekkoScience Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread - page 51.

Biodom

legendary

Activity: 3892

Merit: 4331

Quote from: bctmke on February 25, 2016, 10:50:28 AM

Quote from: bctmke on February 21, 2016, 01:12:02 PM

Quote from: sidehack on February 20, 2016, 03:27:41 PM

Does it initialize but the white light never once flashes? If so, it's a bad connection between the ASIC and PCB.

It's funny because for a short while it hashed out of the box. Then I started running into this. But yes at the moment it does initialize (light up) but then never a single flash.

I need to do further testing - I got the same error no matter which port on the hub I used, nor a usb port on the server.

More testing to come. I'm going to knock the voltage and frequency way back and see if things play nicer.

Second stick from this batch is acting up now.

[2016-02-21 13:09:16.037] COMPAC 2: No valid hashes for over 10 secs, attempting to reset
[2016-02-21 13:09:16.217] COMPAC 2 attempted reset got err:(0) LIBUSB_SUCCESS

BUT - again i haven't had the time to rule out the superpbag so I'm not making any conclusions. I just need time to test.

Buddy picked up three of these I believe and he's having similar issues with two of them. He's doing similar testing (might be issues with the superpbag).

Maybe that particular Superbpag. I have three sticks on 325 and three sticks on 275 on S-pag and they are all stable for 32 days and counting.

epg

member

Activity: 63

Merit: 10

Quote from: sidehack on February 25, 2016, 10:01:49 AM

Alrighty, well yours is the new version without a 0.9V LDO. The two resistors right above it (331 and 471) are a voltage divider that gets your 0.9V line. I don't know why you'd see 0.48V on 0.9V (after testing some 400 current-version sticks I've never seen that error) but it could be a problem there. If those resistors are seated correctly and doing their job, it must be something broken inside the ASIC.

Thanks for looking into it and responding quickly. I checked the 0.9V connection on the other 3 sticks and they show between 0.90-0.93 V, so this one does seem to be the odd stick out. I'll PM you for further steps to take for repair/replacement.

bctmke

sr. member

Activity: 294

Merit: 250

Quote from: bctmke on February 21, 2016, 01:12:02 PM

Quote from: sidehack on February 20, 2016, 03:27:41 PM

Does it initialize but the white light never once flashes? If so, it's a bad connection between the ASIC and PCB.

It's funny because for a short while it hashed out of the box. Then I started running into this. But yes at the moment it does initialize (light up) but then never a single flash.

I need to do further testing - I got the same error no matter which port on the hub I used, nor a usb port on the server.

More testing to come. I'm going to knock the voltage and frequency way back and see if things play nicer.

Second stick from this batch is acting up now.

[2016-02-21 13:09:16.037] COMPAC 2: No valid hashes for over 10 secs, attempting to reset
[2016-02-21 13:09:16.217] COMPAC 2 attempted reset got err:(0) LIBUSB_SUCCESS

BUT - again i haven't had the time to rule out the superpbag so I'm not making any conclusions. I just need time to test.

Buddy picked up three of these I believe and he's having similar issues with two of them. He's doing similar testing (might be issues with the superpbag).

sidehack

legendary

Activity: 3374

Merit: 1859

Curmudgeonly hardware guy

Alrighty, well yours is the new version without a 0.9V LDO. The two resistors right above it (331 and 471) are a voltage divider that gets your 0.9V line. I don't know why you'd see 0.48V on 0.9V (after testing some 400 current-version sticks I've never seen that error) but it could be a problem there. If those resistors are seated correctly and doing their job, it must be something broken inside the ASIC.

epg

member

Activity: 63

Merit: 10

Quote from: sidehack on February 24, 2016, 10:27:36 PM

So your 0.9V is reading at 0.5V? That's very not right. Poke around on the legs of the SOT23 LDOs over on the side there and see what you get.

I Google'd what a SOT23 LDO was and there was only one on the side that I saw. Let me know if I measured the wrong points or if this is completely off. These were my readings:

sidehack

legendary

Activity: 3374

Merit: 1859

Curmudgeonly hardware guy

So your 0.9V is reading at 0.5V? That's very not right. Poke around on the legs of the SOT23 LDOs over on the side there and see what you get.

epg

member

Activity: 63

Merit: 10

Thanks for the suggestion. It seems like the pot was turned quite low as a result of my fiddling. I've turned it back up and have VCORE at 0.70 V, other readouts are identical to before. However, still no dice on seeing the unit mine yet.

aarons6

legendary

Activity: 1736

Merit: 1006

Quote from: epg on February 24, 2016, 09:40:29 PM

Quote from: sidehack on February 24, 2016, 07:09:10 PM

Not underneath the heatsink, below the heatsink Slightly closer to the USB connector than the edge of the heatsink. The reset testpad is the pad on the back labeled "reset".

A visual inspection doesn't show any clearly damaged areas, but I've included more pictures just in case. https://imgur.com/a/tOHbY

I measured the voltage using the reset testpad and these were my readings:

VCORE: 0.55 V
1V8: 1.80 V
0V9: 0.48 V
RESET: 1.61 V

im not sure but it looks like the pot is turned all the way down.. this isnt enough to run the compac..

id turn the pot clockwise until the flat part is pretty much on the bottom _ this is around .7v

epg

member

Activity: 63

Merit: 10

Quote from: sidehack on February 24, 2016, 07:09:10 PM

Not underneath the heatsink, below the heatsink Slightly closer to the USB connector than the edge of the heatsink. The reset testpad is the pad on the back labeled "reset".

A visual inspection doesn't show any clearly damaged areas, but I've included more pictures just in case. https://imgur.com/a/tOHbY

I measured the voltage using the reset testpad and these were my readings:

VCORE: 0.55 V
1V8: 1.80 V
0V9: 0.48 V
RESET: 1.61 V

sidehack

legendary

Activity: 3374

Merit: 1859

Curmudgeonly hardware guy

Not underneath the heatsink, below the heatsink Slightly closer to the USB connector than the edge of the heatsink. The reset testpad is the pad on the back labeled "reset".

epg

member

Activity: 63

Merit: 10

Quote from: sidehack on February 23, 2016, 12:24:01 AM

Check the voltage on the reset testpad. There's a resistor and capacitor in the right corner immediately below the heatsink, make sure they're intact.

Sorry, I'm not too experienced with this. Am I looking for a resistor and capacitor underneath the heatsink after I remove it or before? Which are the reset testpad?

Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/tOHbY

sidehack

legendary

Activity: 3374

Merit: 1859

Curmudgeonly hardware guy

Oh, okay. I wasn't sure if that was a general showoff or if it was showing off for the overclock. Also it was fairly general, since a lot of the last page was just folks talking about the overclock competition.

kilo17

legendary

Activity: 980

Merit: 1001

aka "whocares"

Quote from: sidehack on February 23, 2016, 09:35:52 PM

Oh hey, cool. Say didn't someone start a separate thread for this?

I love the bit of sarcasm, actually I started the thread for the overclock competition but since about 117 posts on this thread were "show off" posts I thought I would add to it. Apparently, that is frowned upon, or at least when I post them.

Deleted the post

sidehack

legendary

Activity: 3374

Merit: 1859

Curmudgeonly hardware guy

Oh hey, cool. Say didn't someone start a separate thread for this?

cavaliersrus

hero member

Activity: 735

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★YoBit.Net★ 350+ Coins Exchange & Dice

thats cool looking from what i can see being i cant see it in high rez

kilo17

legendary

Activity: 980

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aka "whocares"

Quote from: RichBC on February 23, 2016, 04:59:27 PM

The voltage output of that Buck is too high you need 0.6V to 0.8V maybee 0.9V if you are really pushing things.
Rich

Wanting to use DI/Alcohol for cooling and hoping to push the voltage up past 1 volt

kilo17

legendary

Activity: 980

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aka "whocares"

Quote from: RichBC on February 23, 2016, 04:59:27 PM

Quote from: kilo17 on February 23, 2016, 04:32:34 PM

I am preparing for the big contest - I understand I am voiding the warranty Grin

- Is there a way to bypass the buck converter on the compac with the device below. My specialty is cooling not components, any help would be appreciated. I am going to do a little extreme cooling on it and want full control of the power Shocked

If I need to hack up the compac then that is ok

The voltage output of that Buck is too high you need 0.6V to 0.8V maybee 0.9V if you are really pushing things.

The onboard buck is very good and well overspecked for a single BM1384. Other than reducing the series resistor on the pot to allow you to get to 0.8V and adding a voltmenter no need to do anything else.

Rich

Sorry, I posted the wrong picture. The one I was looking at is adjustable down to 0.5 volts. If there is no way to hack the external device in I will probably reduce the series resistor.

Quote from: sidehack on February 23, 2016, 05:23:32 PM

If you want to push more than about 17A into the ASIC (note the S5 runs maybe 11A on stock settings) you should replace the inductor. But before you worry about that you'll probably be worrying about your USB jack.

And replace the inductor and hard wire the USB port Wink

sidehack

legendary

Activity: 3374

Merit: 1859

Curmudgeonly hardware guy

If you want to push more than about 17A into the ASIC (note the S5 runs maybe 11A on stock settings) you should replace the inductor. But before you worry about that you'll probably be worrying about your USB jack.

RichBC

hero member

Activity: 588

Merit: 500

Quote from: kilo17 on February 23, 2016, 04:32:34 PM

I am preparing for the big contest - I understand I am voiding the warranty Grin

- Is there a way to bypass the buck converter on the compac with the device below. My specialty is cooling not components, any help would be appreciated. I am going to do a little extreme cooling on it and want full control of the power Shocked

If I need to hack up the compac then that is ok

The voltage output of that Buck is too high you need 0.6V to 0.8V maybee 0.9V if you are really pushing things.

The onboard buck is very good and well overspecked for a single BM1384. Other than reducing the series resistor on the pot to allow you to get to 0.8V and adding a voltmenter no need to do anything else.

Rich

kilo17

legendary

Activity: 980

Merit: 1001

aka "whocares"

I am preparing for the big contest - I understand I am voiding the warranty Grin

- Is there a way to bypass the buck converter on the compac with the device below. My specialty is cooling not components, any help would be appreciated. I am going to do a little extreme cooling on it and want full control of the power Shocked

If I need to hack up the compac then that is ok

Topic: GekkoScience Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread - page 51. (Read 268030 times)