I have the same hub as you... I've found it to be very good!
But I think you need a bigger heatsink :p
Topic: GekkoScience Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread - page 95. (Read 268015 times)
November 16, 2015, 05:46:06 AM
November 16, 2015, 01:46:45 AM
I had an old burnt up bfl jalapeno, so I took the heat sink fan combo and mounted it onto a GS stick. I also had some stick on heat sinks from the s1s and put them on the back side of the pcb for a little extra cooling. OC is at 400 right now and running smooth for a few hours with 0 hw errors, I will have to mod my usb hub to get any higher clocks but this baby stays cool. I usually see 22 to 28 ghs. This baby will be pushed to the max and hopefully survive, I do have plans of getting a few more and doing other odd ball cooling and OC.
Is this legit for the OC club?
November 16, 2015, 01:44:47 AM
I expect it's probably trivial to upgrade the BFGMiner used by MultiMiner, but I'm not sure how exactly.
The name "Compac" you see is coming from the device itself. Notice the driver is "antminer", which won't necessarily work up to par with Compac.
The name "Compac" you see is coming from the device itself. Notice the driver is "antminer", which won't necessarily work up to par with Compac.
November 16, 2015, 12:14:00 AM
looks like it says compac in there somewhere..hmmm?
November 15, 2015, 10:45:17 PM
Hi everyone
Got my stickminer form bitshopper.de (easy to order from and quick tracked delivery) and have been playing with Multiminer ever since, as I could not get old/GekkoScience cgminer or bfgminer to even find the stickminer.
My config:
- i3 Ivybridge / 8GBRAM / SSD
- Windows 8.1 Pro
- Multiminer 4.0.4 (latest available on GitHub), incl. bfgminer 4.9.0
- Zadig USB driver removed, so that MultiMiner could find the stickminer on the COM port
Got hashing quickly, but impossible to get the hashing above 4GH/s, although I have:
- Turned the voltage up as per post #1,
- Been using a brand new Y-cable connecting 2 USB 2.0 ports to the stickminer,
- Added --set compac:clock=x0d83 (to boost the clock rate to 175MHz) in the SHA 256 argument of the Advance Miner setting (I even tried --set compac:clock=x0d83 in the Pool arguments of the pool config!),
- Stopped mining, unplugged stickminer, re-plugged stickminer, re-started mining between config changes.
But no luck so far in getting over 4GH/s on the Home dashboard or in the API monitor...
Any anybody been able to achieve a better rate (no one so far, looking at previous posts)?
If yes, how?
Got my stickminer form bitshopper.de (easy to order from and quick tracked delivery) and have been playing with Multiminer ever since, as I could not get old/GekkoScience cgminer or bfgminer to even find the stickminer.
My config:
- i3 Ivybridge / 8GBRAM / SSD
- Windows 8.1 Pro
- Multiminer 4.0.4 (latest available on GitHub), incl. bfgminer 4.9.0
- Zadig USB driver removed, so that MultiMiner could find the stickminer on the COM port
Got hashing quickly, but impossible to get the hashing above 4GH/s, although I have:
- Turned the voltage up as per post #1,
- Been using a brand new Y-cable connecting 2 USB 2.0 ports to the stickminer,
- Added --set compac:clock=x0d83 (to boost the clock rate to 175MHz) in the SHA 256 argument of the Advance Miner setting (I even tried --set compac:clock=x0d83 in the Pool arguments of the pool config!),
- Stopped mining, unplugged stickminer, re-plugged stickminer, re-started mining between config changes.
But no luck so far in getting over 4GH/s on the Home dashboard or in the API monitor...
Any anybody been able to achieve a better rate (no one so far, looking at previous posts)?
If yes, how?
I've had the exact same issue. Nothing worked for me except multiminer and had 5 sticks maxing out at 3.5-3.8 Gh/s each. I don't feel as crazy now that someone else has the same issue. If you figure it out. Please let me know. Thanks!
Well, the bfg 4.9.0 says it all.
Any thing older than version 5.3 in bfg, doesn't have support for compacs in it.
It's probably using U2 drivers or something.
November 15, 2015, 09:28:13 PM
Hi everyone
Got my stickminer form bitshopper.de (easy to order from and quick tracked delivery) and have been playing with Multiminer ever since, as I could not get old/GekkoScience cgminer or bfgminer to even find the stickminer.
My config:
- i3 Ivybridge / 8GBRAM / SSD
- Windows 8.1 Pro
- Multiminer 4.0.4 (latest available on GitHub), incl. bfgminer 4.9.0
- Zadig USB driver removed, so that MultiMiner could find the stickminer on the COM port
Got hashing quickly, but impossible to get the hashing above 4GH/s, although I have:
- Turned the voltage up as per post #1,
- Been using a brand new Y-cable connecting 2 USB 2.0 ports to the stickminer,
- Added --set compac:clock=x0d83 (to boost the clock rate to 175MHz) in the SHA 256 argument of the Advance Miner setting (I even tried --set compac:clock=x0d83 in the Pool arguments of the pool config!),
- Stopped mining, unplugged stickminer, re-plugged stickminer, re-started mining between config changes.
But no luck so far in getting over 4GH/s on the Home dashboard or in the API monitor...
Any anybody been able to achieve a better rate (no one so far, looking at previous posts)?
If yes, how?
Got my stickminer form bitshopper.de (easy to order from and quick tracked delivery) and have been playing with Multiminer ever since, as I could not get old/GekkoScience cgminer or bfgminer to even find the stickminer.
My config:
- i3 Ivybridge / 8GBRAM / SSD
- Windows 8.1 Pro
- Multiminer 4.0.4 (latest available on GitHub), incl. bfgminer 4.9.0
- Zadig USB driver removed, so that MultiMiner could find the stickminer on the COM port
Got hashing quickly, but impossible to get the hashing above 4GH/s, although I have:
- Turned the voltage up as per post #1,
- Been using a brand new Y-cable connecting 2 USB 2.0 ports to the stickminer,
- Added --set compac:clock=x0d83 (to boost the clock rate to 175MHz) in the SHA 256 argument of the Advance Miner setting (I even tried --set compac:clock=x0d83 in the Pool arguments of the pool config!),
- Stopped mining, unplugged stickminer, re-plugged stickminer, re-started mining between config changes.
But no luck so far in getting over 4GH/s on the Home dashboard or in the API monitor...
Any anybody been able to achieve a better rate (no one so far, looking at previous posts)?
If yes, how?
I've had the exact same issue. Nothing worked for me except multiminer and had 5 sticks maxing out at 3.5-3.8 Gh/s each. I don't feel as crazy now that someone else has the same issue. If you figure it out. Please let me know. Thanks!
November 15, 2015, 07:25:00 PM
Hi everyone
Got my stickminer form bitshopper.de (easy to order from and quick tracked delivery) and have been playing with Multiminer ever since, as I could not get old/GekkoScience cgminer or bfgminer to even find the stickminer.
...
But no luck so far in getting over 4GH/s on the Home dashboard or in the API monitor...
Any anybody been able to achieve a better rate (no one so far, looking at previous posts)?
If yes, how?
Got my stickminer form bitshopper.de (easy to order from and quick tracked delivery) and have been playing with Multiminer ever since, as I could not get old/GekkoScience cgminer or bfgminer to even find the stickminer.
...
But no luck so far in getting over 4GH/s on the Home dashboard or in the API monitor...
Any anybody been able to achieve a better rate (no one so far, looking at previous posts)?
If yes, how?
Have you let it run for more then 5-10 minutes I have notice some sticks can take a little bit of time to climb to the speed.
Also this:
What versions of BFGMiner have you tried standalone? Only 5.3 and newer have proper Compac support.
November 15, 2015, 06:06:09 PM
What versions of BFGMiner have you tried standalone? Only 5.3 and newer have proper Compac support.
November 15, 2015, 05:47:18 PM
Hi everyone
Got my stickminer form bitshopper.de (easy to order from and quick tracked delivery) and have been playing with Multiminer ever since, as I could not get old/GekkoScience cgminer or bfgminer to even find the stickminer.
My config:
- i3 Ivybridge / 8GBRAM / SSD
- Windows 8.1 Pro
- Multiminer 4.0.4 (latest available on GitHub), incl. bfgminer 4.9.0
- Zadig USB driver removed, so that MultiMiner could find the stickminer on the COM port
Got hashing quickly, but impossible to get the hashing above 4GH/s, although I have:
- Turned the voltage up as per post #1,
- Been using a brand new Y-cable connecting 2 USB 2.0 ports to the stickminer,
- Added --set compac:clock=x0d83 (to boost the clock rate to 175MHz) in the SHA 256 argument of the Advance Miner setting (I even tried --set compac:clock=x0d83 in the Pool arguments of the pool config!),
- Stopped mining, unplugged stickminer, re-plugged stickminer, re-started mining between config changes.
But no luck so far in getting over 4GH/s on the Home dashboard or in the API monitor...
Any anybody been able to achieve a better rate (no one so far, looking at previous posts)?
If yes, how?
Got my stickminer form bitshopper.de (easy to order from and quick tracked delivery) and have been playing with Multiminer ever since, as I could not get old/GekkoScience cgminer or bfgminer to even find the stickminer.
My config:
- i3 Ivybridge / 8GBRAM / SSD
- Windows 8.1 Pro
- Multiminer 4.0.4 (latest available on GitHub), incl. bfgminer 4.9.0
- Zadig USB driver removed, so that MultiMiner could find the stickminer on the COM port
Got hashing quickly, but impossible to get the hashing above 4GH/s, although I have:
- Turned the voltage up as per post #1,
- Been using a brand new Y-cable connecting 2 USB 2.0 ports to the stickminer,
- Added --set compac:clock=x0d83 (to boost the clock rate to 175MHz) in the SHA 256 argument of the Advance Miner setting (I even tried --set compac:clock=x0d83 in the Pool arguments of the pool config!),
- Stopped mining, unplugged stickminer, re-plugged stickminer, re-started mining between config changes.
But no luck so far in getting over 4GH/s on the Home dashboard or in the API monitor...
Any anybody been able to achieve a better rate (no one so far, looking at previous posts)?
If yes, how?
November 15, 2015, 04:52:43 PM
When adjusting compac frequency using cgminer, or minera cgminer-gekko, or cgminer-gekko-win32, is there an interval that needs to be
understood when adjusting? Can I change from 276 to 277? Or is my 276 already being interpreted as 275 and a change to 276 will make no difference ?
tl:dr do I have to change frequency in intervals of 5 or 10, or can I 'effectively' make a difference playing with one or two Mhz at a time?
understood when adjusting? Can I change from 276 to 277? Or is my 276 already being interpreted as 275 and a change to 276 will make no difference ?
tl:dr do I have to change frequency in intervals of 5 or 10, or can I 'effectively' make a difference playing with one or two Mhz at a time?
there would be little to no notable difference with changing it 1MHz at a time. changing it 10 at a time till it stops hashing properly or does mostly HW errors, then go back one step and fine tune it via 2-5MHz at a time
OK and yes, I appreciate the rational approach.
November 15, 2015, 04:30:35 PM
When adjusting compac frequency using cgminer, or minera cgminer-gekko, or cgminer-gekko-win32, is there an interval that needs to be
understood when adjusting? Can I change from 276 to 277? Or is my 276 already being interpreted as 275 and a change to 276 will make no difference ?
tl:dr do I have to change frequency in intervals of 5 or 10, or can I 'effectively' make a difference playing with one or two Mhz at a time?
understood when adjusting? Can I change from 276 to 277? Or is my 276 already being interpreted as 275 and a change to 276 will make no difference ?
tl:dr do I have to change frequency in intervals of 5 or 10, or can I 'effectively' make a difference playing with one or two Mhz at a time?
there would be little to no notable difference with changing it 1MHz at a time. changing it 10 at a time till it stops hashing properly or does mostly HW errors, then go back one step and fine tune it via 2-5MHz at a time
November 15, 2015, 03:51:10 PM
When adjusting compac frequency using software such as cgminer, or minera cgminer-gekko, or cgminer-gekko-win32, is there an interval that needs to be understood when adjusting? Can I change from 276 to 277? Or is my 276 already being interpreted as 275 and a change to 276 will make no difference ?
tl:dr do I have to change frequency in intervals of 5 or 10, or can I 'effectively' make a difference playing with one or two Mhz at a time?
tl:dr do I have to change frequency in intervals of 5 or 10, or can I 'effectively' make a difference playing with one or two Mhz at a time?
November 15, 2015, 03:08:18 PM
Ok i guess the simplest way to explain it to any newer people is that direct north is 0.55V an dialing to the right will increase voltage to the max of 0.8V until almost back to where you started, and everything in between is a range increasing, and that red line represents a point almost at a full return to 359 degress for a 0.75V reading.
That wasn't so difficult to explain simply...was it?
Oh and since the potemtiometer doesn't have any full stops, and can spin around "as mentioned before" how would you tell without any measuring tools what your current voltage is?
Or it doesn't matter? just use the current location of the dial no matter how many times it spins around....right?
thanks!
My apologies I'm not English so I explain as well as I can...
Also I had my sticks for barely 2 weeks and I did a LOT of searching in the forum and tried and tested 4 computers (1win,3linux) and 5 USB hubs.
And I own a 10$ multimeter which is very convenient.
And yes, if you do not have a multimeter, the dial position should give you an estimation of the core V.
As it has been said:
Fire your miner at the freq you want to achieve (usb port power permitting)
Plug the compac stick
And adjust the dial clockwise slowly until you seen no HW error
Plug the next stick and repeat.
See my previous post below about USB power:
Quote
USB2 is 5v and 500mA =2.5W
USB3 is 5V and 900mA = 4.5W
Stick is 0.8V to the BM1384 chip, but still 5V to the stick...
1st post says that 137-150Mhs would use the 2.5W at 0.5V to the BM1384 chip.
Now if I want to run 6@150Mhs, that's 15W, so a 5V/3A I just enough.
But my USB3 hub is 12V/3A so 36W, so 6W per stick, but that's exceeds the port W.
However I could run 36W/4.5W = 8 sticks and reaching the USB3 max W per port.
If I want to populate all 10 slots, then the power supply is the limit:
36W = 3.6W/port = 216Mhs per stick
Assuming (bad habit) a linear ratio Mhs/W, I could reach 360Mhs for 6W. (my hub PS = 36W, I have 6 sticks, so 6W/stick available)
270Mhs is (I think) the Max achievable on stock USB3 for 4.5W.
If I want to push the sticks higher than 270Mhs, I need to use 2 hubs and a Y cable
USB3 is 5V and 900mA = 4.5W
Stick is 0.8V to the BM1384 chip, but still 5V to the stick...
1st post says that 137-150Mhs would use the 2.5W at 0.5V to the BM1384 chip.
Now if I want to run 6@150Mhs, that's 15W, so a 5V/3A I just enough.
But my USB3 hub is 12V/3A so 36W, so 6W per stick, but that's exceeds the port W.
However I could run 36W/4.5W = 8 sticks and reaching the USB3 max W per port.
If I want to populate all 10 slots, then the power supply is the limit:
36W = 3.6W/port = 216Mhs per stick
Assuming (bad habit) a linear ratio Mhs/W, I could reach 360Mhs for 6W. (my hub PS = 36W, I have 6 sticks, so 6W/stick available)
270Mhs is (I think) the Max achievable on stock USB3 for 4.5W.
If I want to push the sticks higher than 270Mhs, I need to use 2 hubs and a Y cable
I'm not even sure the above makes sense anyway ...
November 15, 2015, 03:04:37 PM
Ok i guess the simplest way to explain it to any newer people is that direct north is 0.55V an dialing to the right will increase voltage to the max of 0.8V until almost back to where you started, and everything in between is a range increasing, and that red line represents a point almost at a full return to 359 degress for a 0.75V reading.
That wasn't so difficult to explain simply...was it?
Oh and since the potemtiometer doesn't have any full stops, and can spin around "as mentioned before" how would you tell without any measuring tools what your current voltage is?
Or it doesn't matter? just use the current location of the dial no matter how many times it spins around....right?
thanks!
My apologies I'm not English so I explain as well as I can...
And yes, if you do not have a multimeter, the dial position should give you an estimation of the core V.
As it has been said:
Fire your miner at the freq you want to achieve (usb port power permitting)
Plug the compac stick
And adjust the dial clockwise slowly until you seen no HW error
Plug the next stick and repeat.
See my previous post below about USB power:
Quote
USB2 is 5v and 500mA =2.5W
USB3 is 5V and 900mA = 4.5W
Stick is 0.8V to the BM1384 chip, but still 5V to the stick...
1st post says that 137-150Mhs would use the 2.5W at 0.5V to the BM1384 chip.
Now if I want to run 6@150Mhs, that's 15W, so a 5V/3A I just enough.
But my USB3 hub is 12V/3A so 36W, so 6W per stick, but that's exceeds the port W.
However I could run 36W/4.5W = 8 sticks and reaching the USB3 max W per port.
If I want to populate all 10 slots, then the power supply is the limit:
36W = 3.6W/port = 216Mhs per stick
Assuming (bad habit) a linear ratio Mhs/W, I could reach 360Mhs for 6W. (my hub PS = 36W, I have 6 sticks, so 6W/stick available)
270Mhs is (I think) the Max achievable on stock USB3 for 4.5W.
If I want to push the sticks higher than 270Mhs, I need to use 2 hubs and a Y cable
USB3 is 5V and 900mA = 4.5W
Stick is 0.8V to the BM1384 chip, but still 5V to the stick...
1st post says that 137-150Mhs would use the 2.5W at 0.5V to the BM1384 chip.
Now if I want to run 6@150Mhs, that's 15W, so a 5V/3A I just enough.
But my USB3 hub is 12V/3A so 36W, so 6W per stick, but that's exceeds the port W.
However I could run 36W/4.5W = 8 sticks and reaching the USB3 max W per port.
If I want to populate all 10 slots, then the power supply is the limit:
36W = 3.6W/port = 216Mhs per stick
Assuming (bad habit) a linear ratio Mhs/W, I could reach 360Mhs for 6W. (my hub PS = 36W, I have 6 sticks, so 6W/stick available)
270Mhs is (I think) the Max achievable on stock USB3 for 4.5W.
If I want to push the sticks higher than 270Mhs, I need to use 2 hubs and a Y cable
I'm not even sure the above makes sense anyway ...
November 15, 2015, 02:57:24 PM
You mean a picture like the one in the first post ? 
No that exactly NOT the picture I am looking for. Do you think I might be blind and missed that lol
I am looking for a detailed pic with locations of the potentiometer with each range more or less. Like 90 degrees right is "X" value
90 degrees left is "X" value and so on.
Something like that would be very useful while attempting to narrow in on a specific voltage range.
Thanks!
As you've been told above (and as i've done):
Trial and error.
Blue line is 0.55V
359degres is 0.8V
So that's a range of 0.25V for 360degres
45degres gives you 0.075V
Etc etc
Ok i guess the simplest way to explain it to any newer people is that direct north is 0.55V an dialing to the right will increase voltage to the max of 0.8V until almost back to where you started, and everything in between is a range increasing, and that red line represents a point almost at a full return to 359 degress for a 0.75V reading.
That wasn't so difficult to explain simply...was it?
Oh and since the potemtiometer doesn't have any full stops, and can spin around "as mentioned before" how would you tell without any measuring tools what your current voltage is?
Or it doesn't matter? just use the current location of the dial no matter how many times it spins around....right?
thanks!
November 15, 2015, 02:41:08 PM
You mean a picture like the one in the first post ?
No that exactly NOT the picture I am looking for. Do you think I might be blind and missed that lol
I am looking for a detailed pic with locations of the potentiometer with each range more or less. Like 90 degrees right is "X" value
90 degrees left is "X" value and so on.
Something like that would be very useful while attempting to narrow in on a specific voltage range.
Thanks!
As you've been told above (and as i've done):
Trial and error.
Blue line is 0.55V
359degres is 0.8V
So that's a range of 0.25V for 360degres
180 = 0.125
90 = 0.0625
45 = 0.03125
Etc etc
November 15, 2015, 02:36:09 PM
Ok, finishing up preparations for running sticks...
i want to try both pi and pc/linux or debian to run those.
Q:
I am thinking about getting a cheap XP laptop, then install Linux and/or Debian.
The specific question would be: is it possible to partition the initial XP drive and install Linux on one half and Debian on another OR is it better to keep XP and simply run linux/debian off the stick or CD without installing on the hard drive?
If anybody comments, i would appreciate it.
My interest here would be to learn linux/debian a little while "playing" with sticks.
thanks
i want to try both pi and pc/linux or debian to run those.
Q:
I am thinking about getting a cheap XP laptop, then install Linux and/or Debian.
The specific question would be: is it possible to partition the initial XP drive and install Linux on one half and Debian on another OR is it better to keep XP and simply run linux/debian off the stick or CD without installing on the hard drive?
If anybody comments, i would appreciate it.
My interest here would be to learn linux/debian a little while "playing" with sticks.
thanks
I've got the Pi 2-B running my sticks (Ubuntu 14.04 LTS), another running U3's (Raspbian), and another is running my TV storage/streaming (Ubuntu 14.04 LTS).
Yes, you can have 2 OS (or 3, 4, ?) boot (Windows and Linux, or even a couple different versions of Linux) on the same computer (I've got Linux Mint 17.2 and Win 7 on this machine now). Learning Linux was why I did the dual boot and now I may start Win 7 maybe twice a week (still got one program I use Windows for).
I would suggest, go for a newer model laptop built for Win 7 (newer CPU's and the like, plus will be a little faster) if you go the laptop route. The laptop's built for Win 7 should be supported for years to come, where as some of the old XP laptops are already getting left behind with the new builds of Linux (search for PAE and you'll see what I mean) and you have to stick with older versions on some laptops already.
November 15, 2015, 02:30:03 PM
Well, you know one corner is 800mV and one corner is 550mV and one corner is about 640mV because you've been told all this either directly or with pictures. Doing the math, that puts the other corner at about 710mV. Doing more math will give you more approximate setpoints. The best resolution will be had by measuring the test pads with a voltmeter, which is why those test pads exist.
Of course you could always, instead of picking a voltage and then, I don't know, determining a working frequency for that voltage? You could pick a frequency or hashrate you want to achieve and then dial in the voltage by watching how well the stick works. If you want to pick a power use range, you could look at the very detailed graphs TheRealSteve put up for power use in the review thread, pick a frequency and dial in the voltage until it works.
So, three different things you can do that don't require someone else to draw you a picture, and based entirely off finding and using information already given.
Of course you could always, instead of picking a voltage and then, I don't know, determining a working frequency for that voltage? You could pick a frequency or hashrate you want to achieve and then dial in the voltage by watching how well the stick works. If you want to pick a power use range, you could look at the very detailed graphs TheRealSteve put up for power use in the review thread, pick a frequency and dial in the voltage until it works.
So, three different things you can do that don't require someone else to draw you a picture, and based entirely off finding and using information already given.
I see so in that original pic, the top is 800mV and direct south is 550mV?
The blue lines mean top and bottom opposites?
and the red line in the top left corner is 710mV?
please confirm.
thanks!
November 15, 2015, 01:30:46 PM
Well, you know one corner is 800mV and one corner is 550mV and one corner is about 640mV because you've been told all this either directly or with pictures. Doing the math, that puts the other corner at about 710mV. Doing more math will give you more approximate setpoints. The best resolution will be had by measuring the test pads with a voltmeter, which is why those test pads exist.
Of course you could always, instead of picking a voltage and then, I don't know, determining a working frequency for that voltage? You could pick a frequency or hashrate you want to achieve and then dial in the voltage by watching how well the stick works. If you want to pick a power use range, you could look at the very detailed graphs TheRealSteve put up for power use in the review thread, pick a frequency and dial in the voltage until it works.
So, three different things you can do that don't require someone else to draw you a picture, and based entirely off finding and using information already given.
Of course you could always, instead of picking a voltage and then, I don't know, determining a working frequency for that voltage? You could pick a frequency or hashrate you want to achieve and then dial in the voltage by watching how well the stick works. If you want to pick a power use range, you could look at the very detailed graphs TheRealSteve put up for power use in the review thread, pick a frequency and dial in the voltage until it works.
So, three different things you can do that don't require someone else to draw you a picture, and based entirely off finding and using information already given.
November 15, 2015, 01:26:48 PM
I'm gonna go ahead and advise the same thing I advised last week, which is the quote from the first post which states that if you have trouble the first thing you should try is turning up the voltage. The flat part in the upper right corner still puts it at pretty much dead bottom voltage. If it's one of my sticks, it left here set for about 640mV (flat in the bottom right corner) and was tested to work without error at 200MHz/11GH.
So what you do is, you turn the screw up a bit and fire it up and see if it works better. If not, turn it up a bit more and repeat. Just like the advice in the first post. I specifically sent you to read through this thread for solutions to your problem since a lot of what you need is probably in the first post.
Additionally,
So what you do is, you turn the screw up a bit and fire it up and see if it works better. If not, turn it up a bit more and repeat. Just like the advice in the first post. I specifically sent you to read through this thread for solutions to your problem since a lot of what you need is probably in the first post.
Additionally,
None of my sticks are tested to work on anything USB3, and I don't know anyone else's opinions but I've never recommended their use on a USB3 hub either, reason being they're not USB3 devices and were never tested for compatibility.
Thanks, I will try to adjust the settings more on the physical USB.
It would be great if someone can post a picture of where the actual voltage settings would range on the USB Miner from low end to max, like "this position is "x" voltage".
I think that would be extremely helpful for some.
thanks!
Easiest way would be to use 1 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3JSEG6?keywords=drok%20usb&qid=1447593939&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
However you can also just start cgminer with no sticks plugged in hub, plug 1 stick in, then turn the pot (in small increments) till it starts mining. Then adjust it some more to get rid of HW errors. Start on the end that will leave the pot in the open until the next stick is plugged in.
Plug the next stick in and adjust it, repeat, until you get all sticks plugged in and running.
Then again, I just looked at some of the 1 star reviews of the Anker 3.0 hub (that you linked to in a previous post) and I wouldn't buy one. More than a few die after a few months, some will only get 2 or 3 ports working, some will constantly drop connections, some over heat, and some only get 2.0 speed or lower (even if everything is 3.0).
Even seen some review's of another model of Anker 3.0 hub, that some programs would not run, if the hub was plugged in before opening the program (had to open the program and then plug the hub in). So seem's that the Anker 3.0 hub's are not as good as the 2.0 hub's were in the past.
Thanks for looking up all the 1 star reviews they are very helpful in buying any product. Mostly from angry people who have issues.
I have never had an issue with my hub and have used it just fine with 9 USB miners maxed out. But thanks for the suggestion.
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