GridSeed 5-chip USB miner voltage mod - page 20.

amix

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Quote from: happydaze on April 28, 2014, 10:50:33 AM

re: troubleshooting 1 out of 5 chips working after voltage mod attempt

Is there anyway to trace things back from chip 4? Chip for is either the last or the first. 0,1,2,3,4 depending how things are connected.

How can I tell if power is getting to chip 3 for example? How can I tell it is getting a signal to start?

Cpuminer shows it is sending the command to set the frequency for all chips and start mining but maybe that is more of a com chip function. Maybe the other chips aren't even on. I can't figure out what to look for from the pdf schematic.

Could a break after chip 4 stop the other chips from working? Chip 4 is closest to the 12v power jack I think. Chip 2 is in the center. Chip 2 had the solder oozing out from under. I've been mopping that up but might need a better magnifying glass or even a microscope to inspect.

Are there any test points on the board to check for general working condition?

I want to work on it but I don't know what to do next. Sad

i glad you mentioned that as i was wondering myself which physical chip on the board corresponds to sandors111 0,1,2,3,4 chips. Im assuming that 0 in the cpuminer corresponds to the M1 in the schmatic through to m5 (being chip4 in cpuminer).
And looking at the PCB

	M1
M3	M2	M4	Power Supply
	M5

Looking at the PCB -from above - with the power supply on your Right

so M1 = CPUminer chip0
M2 = "" "" 1
etc etc
M5 = "" "" 4
If sandor could confirm that itd be great

amix

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Quote from: wolfey2014 on April 28, 2014, 08:51:06 AM

amix, are you saying you're feeding the 12V power with 5V? That can't be good for it Wink

Oh and watts are watts no matter the supply voltage. In fact, if you feed it less than the required voltage, current draw hence power consumption will go up! Not down. Sorry, matey!

Say you who feed a 12v fan 5v from the usb port!
itll draw the current it needs to run, regardless of its supplied voltage. in theory it should go slower.
wiht voltage current CONVERSION as you up/down one the other changes in repect (energy can not be destroy only converted from one form to another - physics 101). so up the voltage ampage goes down. drop the voltage ampage goes up. wiht a conversion, say 12v conversion to 5v conversion - as appears to happen wihtin the grids.
Im not converting 12v to 5v im marly supplying 5v to start with.
and hashing away at 650 - easy break in - its drawing a steedy 0.79A.
At 5v * 0.79A = 3.95 Watts
Compared to 12v at 0.6A (i think but that was just startup never measured the current draw for 650 hash rate!) = 12v*0.6A = 7.2 Watt.
So already its less wattage. oh at startup it pulled 0.47A
5v *0.47A = 2.35 Watts

nst6563

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Activity: 252

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Quote from: cbutters on April 28, 2014, 11:19:43 AM

Quote from: cbutters on April 28, 2014, 09:11:23 AM

Quote from: nst6563 on April 27, 2014, 09:48:48 PM

:EDIT: If I remove the --log parameter it doesn't freeze. When I add it back in, it freezes after just a minute or two.

I can report this same issue, I'm trying it now without --log to see what happens. Thanks for the tip.

Hmmm... I can confirm that the new miner lasts longer without --log, but it still ends up freezing on my box after about 2 hours, I had no problems with the last version freezing.

my batch file:
minerd.exe --freq=1200 --gc3355-autotune --gc3355=\\.\COM3,\\.\COM4,\\.\COM5,\\.\COM6 --gc3355-chips=5 --debug --url=stratum+tcp://xxx:4444 --userpass=xxx:xxx

Also, the miner in the output says it will adjust the voltage in steps of 25, ie " 2565 steps until frequency adjusts to 1175MHz" but then it really only bumps it down to 1190 from 1200 on the status display at the top. I can't tell what frequency it really adjusting it to.

I'm restarting for another run, lets see if it can stay up longer this time.

Once I removed both the --debug and --log from the command line my miner has been running all night without any hiccups. It doesn't seem to like something about those two parameters. Memory allocation maybe? Dunno...

nst6563

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Quote from: gtraah on April 28, 2014, 10:02:19 AM

Hmm I dont think the above ebay link is the correct one as I found out the part number and its 300ma which equals 0.3amp Where as I should be getting 3A I am guessing... Any atleast this one here shows the exact numbers so I will order.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10x-742792121-FERRIT-SMD-300OHM-3A-1206-RoHs-/111311029878?pt=Bauteile&hash=item19eaa78676&_uhb=1

I would definitely replace those two components and not run the gridseed very long at all without them. I think your gc3355 chips may be ok since the blown parts are part of the 12v circuitry. Don't discount any damage yet though. I had a problem with the 12v mosfet and one of my gc3355 chips took a hit. The rest seem to work ok, but that one chip just isn't stable anymore at almost any speed.

cbutters

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Quote from: cbutters on April 28, 2014, 09:11:23 AM

Quote from: nst6563 on April 27, 2014, 09:48:48 PM

:EDIT: If I remove the --log parameter it doesn't freeze. When I add it back in, it freezes after just a minute or two.

I can report this same issue, I'm trying it now without --log to see what happens. Thanks for the tip.

Hmmm... I can confirm that the new miner lasts longer without --log, but it still ends up freezing on my box after about 2 hours, I had no problems with the last version freezing.

my batch file:
minerd.exe --freq=1200 --gc3355-autotune --gc3355=\\.\COM3,\\.\COM4,\\.\COM5,\\.\COM6 --gc3355-chips=5 --debug --url=stratum+tcp://xxx:4444 --userpass=xxx:xxx

Also, the miner in the output says it will adjust the voltage in steps of 25, ie " 2565 steps until frequency adjusts to 1175MHz" but then it really only bumps it down to 1190 from 1200 on the status display at the top. I can't tell what frequency it really adjusting it to.

I'm restarting for another run, lets see if it can stay up longer this time.

happydaze

full member

Activity: 140

Merit: 100

re: troubleshooting 1 out of 5 chips working after voltage mod attempt

Is there anyway to trace things back from chip 4? Chip four is either the last or the first. 0,1,2,3,4 depending how things are connected.

How can I tell if power is getting to chip 3 for example? How can I tell it is getting a signal to start?

Cpuminer shows it is sending the command to set the frequency for all chips and start mining but maybe that is more of a com chip function. Maybe the other chips aren't even on. I can't figure out what to look for from the pdf schematic.

Could a break after chip 4 stop the other chips from working? Chip 4 is closest to the 12v power jack I think. Chip 2 is in the center. Chip 2 had the solder oozing out from under. I've been mopping that up but might need a better magnifying glass or even a microscope to inspect.

Are there any test points on the board to check for general working condition?

I want to work on it but I don't know what to do next. Sad

jamieb81

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Activity: 308

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wow you guys rock on the CPUminer development right now, very nice!

michelem

legendary

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Quote from: sandor111 on April 27, 2014, 08:51:19 PM

Git and binaries have been updated.
TUI is included, and a number of bugs have been fixed.
A number of useful commands have been added, check --help for more info.
Win: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ttqa9p851siz8oi/minerd-gc3355.zip
Rpi: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xc3lvysi8vtrt00/minerd-gc3355

Great job!

I'm developing a basic web monitor for sandor-cpuminer, here you can see a very-alpha screenshot:

It looks like nice but if I could have direct JSON stats via http instead create a socket, this could be more useful and easy to use, because I could give a simple html file which you can use without installing anything on the raspberry or where you put the "minerd" command. (simply tell me the IP and API port and I will fetch data via getJson method).

Do you think is possible to add a http API call?

Then, I saw the '{"get":"stats"}\n' command doesn't work always, many times I receive no response, may be for timeout issue, did you experience something like this?

Many thanks again.

gtraah

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Activity: 420

Merit: 250

Hmm I dont think the above ebay link is the correct one as I found out the part number and its 300ma which equals 0.3amp Where as I should be getting 3A I am guessing... Any atleast this one here shows the exact numbers so I will order.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10x-742792121-FERRIT-SMD-300OHM-3A-1206-RoHs-/111311029878?pt=Bauteile&hash=item19eaa78676&_uhb=1

gtraah

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Activity: 420

Merit: 250

Quote from: happydaze on April 28, 2014, 08:52:15 AM

gtraah - they are the same according to the docs https://github.com/gridseed/usb-miner/tree/master/hardware and assuming they are right.

Should be 4 in that general area.

FB27, FB28, FB23, FB24
FERRITE BEAD_R1206_300OHM@100MH
Value: 300ohm@100MHz,3A

Anyone know of a free dsn viewer? I can't open that file from the github docs.

Thanks for your help amix - time for me get get working on that pod.

I think this is it on EBay, can someone please confirm - I just dont want to make a mistake thanks boys!!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KOA-1206-Chip-Ferrite-300-Ohm-CZB2BFLTE301P-100pcs-/400231544721?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2fa8b791&_uhb=1

Edit: And I have now pulled off the burned chips cleaned out around there with some Metho & toothbrush, I can now see the shiny contacts to solder the new ferrite... I thought I am going to try plug only the usb in and see if windows picks it up, YES, I loaded Cgminer to see if this picks it up, YES... So now i either try bypass it and hope it doesnt ruin any other chips or just buy the ferrites and wish for the best..

If somone can confirm they are the right ones i will order them now.

cbutters

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Activity: 294

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Quote from: nst6563 on April 27, 2014, 09:48:48 PM

:EDIT: If I remove the --log parameter it doesn't freeze. When I add it back in, it freezes after just a minute or two.

I can report this same issue, I'm trying it now without --log to see what happens. Thanks for the tip.

EDIT: ALSO THANKS SANDOR! This new minerd design is awesome, its great to be able to see the status of all the miners at once and I love the autotuning feature too!

Are notices like this normal:
Got nonce b713e899, Hash <= Htarget! (0x627

never saw messages like that when gpu mining. I know nonce errors are bad, but is that message above just a normal working output?

amix

member

Activity: 84

Merit: 10

Quote from: wolfey2014 on April 28, 2014, 08:19:02 AM

IF I understand your scribble, no, I didn't invent the mod, obviously. Evidently neither did Nemercry based on his being accused of copying it from someone on another forum. Maybe it was your idea originally but you didn't fly with it so others took up the task since several of us were looking for a way to overclock our pods.
I never claimed any of the mods were my origination! Never! But I did come up with a simpler way to change R52 (R139) using a standard 1/4W axial resistor, and I came up with the most efficient value of 49.9k where power usage and max profit go. I also came up with the 5V USB mod.
Some say that 47k works the best for them but I doubt they can achieve the same results with the same low number of HW errors or less.
Anyway, this is all part of a group based evolution to achieve an end result for the benefit of all miners. My goal was 24/7 operation and maximum profit from my miners. I have achieved this weeks ago now and I am happy with the results. R52 mod IS the ONLY way to go IMO and I'm sticking with it. Wink

Your totally right, i didnt run with it not for being afraid or anythgin i was simple waiting for my parts to arrive - they took nearly 2 weeks darn it! -. Yep total credit for the 5v fan mod.
Now i have an improvement on the 5v fan mod - 5v gridseed! yes its running with 5v! Spare power supply i had for a usb hub i blew by mixxing up the power supply and pluggin 12v into it -my other hub all use 12v.

You know if this works out then the 5v fan mod is gonna be no longer needed. burn in first then i start trying to overclock it while running it under 5v.
THIS IS ALL TOTALLY NEW AND IS NOT CONFIRME IN EITHER WAY - GOOD OR BAD!

R52/R139 MOD : intresting enough i came across an article in chineese and after a bit of translation turns out there is the r50 resistor as well. Checking the schmatic its 33k grounded. appears this has some influence on your voltage and hashrate. the trick is to get it to 33k. its a 1% resistor 0402 series, but it could vary and this variance afffects the overclokc voltage and hence your succesfull hashrate and hardware errors. I suggest checking it, if it more than 33k pencil mod to bring it down to 33k if its less, then either swap it or increase the resistor for the R52 mod. Im still trying to gather date to calcualte how it affects everythig, but the are related. says the optimal voltage is 1.71-1.72v.

This variance could explain why people are getting so much variance in results hash rate wise. so while 47K mihgt be good for one due to variance in resistor even at 1% its not forced to be the best for another grid!

If folks could take readings of resistance across R50, R52 (AKAR139) and the voltage across R52 maybe we can calaute the formulea to produce the required values. if you have these values PM me more data the better fit i can get.

happydaze

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Activity: 140

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gtraah - they are the same according to the docs https://github.com/gridseed/usb-miner/tree/master/hardware and assuming they are right.

Should be 4 in that general area.

FB27, FB28, FB23, FB24
FERRITE BEAD_R1206_300OHM@100MH
Value: 300ohm@100MHz,3A

Anyone know of a free dsn viewer? I can't open that file from the github docs.

Thanks for your help amix - time for me get get working on that pod.

wolfey2014

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Activity: 378

Merit: 250

Quote from: amix on April 28, 2014, 08:43:26 AM

Quote from: happydaze on April 28, 2014, 06:24:11 AM

I could screw up any mod

I bet. Sorry ZiG - I'm not blaming you at all. I did the first pod and it has run for several days.
Re: C35 - the clicking came before accidentally bridging that. I took photos and planned to post them. It looked good from several angles.
I suspect the clicking has to do with me making a poor solder connection, maybe even up at con3. The bridge to C35 came at a later attempt. I was so surprised that I did it and even more surprised that I didn't notice it before testing the pod.

Looking at the brd file:
R46 Pin 1 goes something referenced N31930727 on the board
R46 Pin 2 goes to DGND

C35 Pin 1 goes to N31930727
C35 Pin 2 goes to N31930664

It looked like the short went from pin 1 to pin 1. The components are tiny so maybe I shorted C35 itself.

I also started the pod at 1200MHz - I feel kind of dumb admitting that.
I had to post my failure. I want to focus on fixing it if I can. Turn a negative into a positive.

ZiG - Can we put a resistor between Con3 pin3 and C38 pin1 or C40 pin1 or C41 pin1 or C43 pin1?

Thank Amix for the helpful advice. I'll focus on cleaning the pins for now. The underside is clean.

Any, all suggestions, tips, advice for what to do and what to check are welcome.

Check your crystal!!! just inspected mine and found a small dent in the top - caught possible from when fitting the top and maybe overtighted a bit too much. the dent fits exactly where the edge of the central heatsink block is. darn it. time to get the drimmel out again. hopefully it aint damaged it too much. oh well looks like crystal swap is in the pipline - upgrade the crystal anyone? thinking maybe a 33mhz in there Wink

.

the frequency wont have fried it i had mine at over 2200MHZ back in the ealry days of this thread - got too many hadware errors though!

Oh something of importance :i just plugged my new gridseed into a 5v yes thats right 5v power supply.i had one laying around and was just about to chop the barrell connector off it when i had the idea. guess what its running fan going and its hashing away. i set it low so its hashing at 650mhz wiht the autotunne cpuminer so lets see how it goes. looks promising certainly for cutting the wattage down at any rate! 24hr from now ill be overclocking it.

amix, are you saying you're feeding the 12V power with 5V? That can't be good for it Wink

Oh and watts are watts no matter the supply voltage. In fact, if you feed it less than the required voltage, current draw hence power consumption will go up! Not down. Sorry, matey!

amix

member

Activity: 84

Merit: 10

Quote from: happydaze on April 28, 2014, 06:24:11 AM

I could screw up any mod

I bet. Sorry ZiG - I'm not blaming you at all. I did the first pod and it has run for several days.
Re: C35 - the clicking came before accidentally bridging that. I took photos and planned to post them. It looked good from several angles.
I suspect the clicking has to do with me making a poor solder connection, maybe even up at con3. The bridge to C35 came at a later attempt. I was so surprised that I did it and even more surprised that I didn't notice it before testing the pod.

Looking at the brd file:
R46 Pin 1 goes something referenced N31930727 on the board
R46 Pin 2 goes to DGND

C35 Pin 1 goes to N31930727
C35 Pin 2 goes to N31930664

It looked like the short went from pin 1 to pin 1. The components are tiny so maybe I shorted C35 itself.

I also started the pod at 1200MHz - I feel kind of dumb admitting that.
I had to post my failure. I want to focus on fixing it if I can. Turn a negative into a positive.

ZiG - Can we put a resistor between Con3 pin3 and C38 pin1 or C40 pin1 or C41 pin1 or C43 pin1?

Thank Amix for the helpful advice. I'll focus on cleaning the pins for now. The underside is clean.

Any, all suggestions, tips, advice for what to do and what to check are welcome.

Check your crystal!!! just inspected mine and found a small dent in the top - caught possible from when fitting the top and maybe overtighted a bit too much. the dent fits exactly where the edge of the central heatsink block is. darn it. time to get the drimmel out again. hopefully it aint damaged it too much. oh well looks like crystal swap is in the pipline - upgrade the crystal anyone? thinking maybe a 33mhz in there Wink

.

the frequency wont have fried it i had mine at over 2200MHZ back in the ealry days of this thread - got too many hadware errors though!

Oh something of importance :i just plugged my new gridseed into a 5v yes thats right 5v power supply.i had one laying around and was just about to chop the barrell connector off it when i had the idea. guess what its running fan going and its hashing away. i set it low so its hashing at 650mhz wiht the autotunne cpuminer so lets see how it goes. looks promising certainly for cutting the wattage down at any rate! 24hr from now ill be overclocking it.

wolfey2014

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Activity: 378

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Quote from: gtraah on April 28, 2014, 08:14:28 AM

Quote from: wolfey2014 on April 28, 2014, 07:49:25 AM

Quote from: gtraah on April 28, 2014, 06:45:32 AM

Ok Guys I have modded 19 Pods and Itest each one after I have done it.. Now got all 19 and I plugged them all in together for the first time after being successfully tested individually, anyway So I plugged them all in flicked the Powersupply switch and this is when I hear a small POP and flame like someone lit a match I INSTANTLY FREAKED OUT AND POWERED EVERYTHING OFF, OPENED THE POD in concern and this is what I see, I AM FURIOUS ANGRY as I HAVE TESTED EACH POD after I mod it and al worked perfect accepted shares NO HW and all perfect, but now that I plug the power in all of them I hear this POP and flames.

Please tell me what may have gone wrong here, Not enough power on the PSU cable? But not enuough power should NOT make this burn up and POP the moment I flicked he switch right? Anyway can someone PLEASE tell me the 2 chips I burnt I really would like to repair this pod... Its a waste, I am lost as to why this occured. I am using Acritc Mx-2 Compound- NON CONDUCtIvE so this could not have caused a short.

Please if someone can help me find these chips will be greatly appreciated.

HERE IS THE PICTURE OF THE 2 BURNED OUT CHIPS, THEY LOOK THE SAME SHAPE AND SIZE. IT WOULD BE GOOD IF THEY WERE THE SAME CHIPS.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qymhbmgvu5raq1t/20140428_203015.jpg

If someone can also give me an idea how this may have happened, please remember I test each POD after I mod and wait for a few shares to be accepted before I screw it all back together and this went in flames the second i turned the power on ... I was thinking maybe I tightened it to tight and the copper heat sink touched something to short out? And no I have not used any copper shims yet.

Sounds to me that perhaps when you put the top heat sink back on and tightened it down, it shorted out on something like perhaps the fan red + lead? That will cause some fireworks/magic black smoke. Perhaps you should test the pod after you put it all back together too?
The burned out components look like Ferret beads to me. Good luck!

WOlfey!!!,Your a Genius!! Guess what it was?? The red wire got caught on one of the heat sinks sharp edges and when I tightened it down it pierced it!I knew it couldnt of been the power... So now can someone confirm the exact part is what happydaze has said?? and do you think it would be any other parts that are not visibly burned out? Or the instant those chips burned no power could get to the rest of the board. Those 2 chips sacrafised themselves for the board , something like that lol

Well, thank you for saying that gtraah! Much appreciated!
Glad your problems are almost over.
I can't say that blowing any of the ferret beads saves the components they supply from damage. They are NOT fuses and are not intended to be used as such. In any case! Lucky the little buggers are there though if they did help save other components down the line but most likely they didn't save anything and what ever is behind them is also fried, I'm afraid. That's why they burned up in the first place. But, still. You never know. You might get lucky! Wink

The only way to find out is to either replace them or 'temporarily' bypass them with a jumper to see first if it's even worth replacing them with new ones. Doing this temporarily most likely won't hurt anything voltage wise. It will simply allow more noise (high frequency) to pass through. This should not be harmful to any components. Especially for the few seconds to a minute that you'll have it powered up to see if it comes to life and all chips are functioning normally. But if it does still work, DO replace the FB's before you put it back in to service!
IF you do bypass them to test, I think it would be best to put a 500 to 1000mA fuse inline with the power supply so if it is permanently damaged, it won't make more magic black smoke before the fuse blows.
You can also use a small 12V light bulb as a dummy load which will allow voltage to pass through but not a lot if hardly any current. This way you can slowly wake it up and see if it's going to stay cool and act right or spit dummy and fry some more components.

J4bberwock

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Quote from: gtraah on April 28, 2014, 08:17:43 AM

Can I get a second opinion on these 2 chips that I blew, are they the same and both -

Device Type: FERRITE BEAD_R1206_300OHM@100MH
Value: 300ohm@100MHz,3A

As happydaze.

ANd guys be very careful those heatsink edges are VERY sharp , It basically pin-pricked the red cable and caused this short circuit

Yes, both are ferrite beads with the same value.
quite easy to find on ebay, mouser...

wolfey2014

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Activity: 378

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Quote from: amix on April 28, 2014, 01:36:05 AM

Quote from: happydaze on April 27, 2014, 11:17:21 PM

I tried rmod on a second gridseed today after having it working well on another gridseed for several days. This one already had vmod1 and I was adding 15k. Actual measured numbers were 35.83k + 14.92k = 50.75 tested on board. That is on the high side I know.
I got the clicking noise and tried to redo a few times but couldn't solve it. I'm not good at soldering but thought I did an ok job. Voltage was low on first try 1.3 something. Second try had the voltage at 1.63v. I removed vmod1 but the clicking was still there. You can actually feel the clicking. The first pod I did had a higher value large silver capacitor 16v 330. This pod has 16v 220.

I screwed something up though on one of the later tries. I may have bridged to that 20nf capacitor. It got hot quickly ..... some solder has actually come out from under one of the gc3355 chips on two sides! Shocked

These little things are pretty tough. One chip of the five is still working so hopefully I can fix it up.

Summary:
rmod removed, bridge replaced, no clicking sound
It powers up and miner software sees it. cpuminer reports 5 chips and sets the frequency.
Only one chip does any mining and those shares are accepted by pool. (only chip #4 works)
Red light blinks very very slow. It can be off for a long time or on for a long time. This might be caused because only one chip is actually mining.
Solder is visible on two sides of the center Gridchip (one of the mining chips). See photo. It covers four or five pins on one side and maybe three on another side. I did not drop solder there and I know it wasn't there earlier because I took a photo of the new resistor in place before trying it. I think it has come out from under the chip if that is possible. How do I remove that?

I need some advice or suggestions on what to check / what to do so I can try to recover it or at least get a few more chips working. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

firstly clicking is prob the crystal i got it when i did the r52 mod with a 56k resistor. Applying slight pressure o. The crystal lessened it i reworked. It was less. I then uninstalled my grid dricers - i was getting an uart open error - and checkdd the box to delete the drivers. Tge dud a fresh install of the drivers. It sorted it. I aslo noticed havibg several instances of grid miner software cancause issues!! Byt it ciuldve been my drivers agsin.

As for the dolder o. Your chips thats from underside of yhe gtids. It connects the thermal plate under the grids to the theal vias. This is something i mentioned way back. Appears they used eithrr normal solder and tinned the pads or too much solder paste. On mine it was leaking o. The underside on several chips i had balls o tge thermal vias!! Try reworking it but first check the underside of your pcd make sure the thermal viad are clear. You might want to remove any dolder fro. The underside first. Hot air rework would do nicely alibg with flhx and desolder braid. To remove the doldrr balls o top flux and desolder braid. Either hit air it and remove the balls or a very fine solder tip. Rither way you need to be carefull. Chances are you might end up unsolderi g a fws pins. Resolder them with a fine tip. Remember to applyf
Flux to the pins beforehand and ti you tip.

Google smd remove. Theres a few you tube videos out there thatll be able to show you. It sint eady though so pratice on somethi g else first.

Dud wolfey invent the mod?? Er no wad someo e else he jyst gyessed what they wsd up to. Slthough i had the idwa of the r52 mod first. Others jyst tested it and put it into practice furst.
When overclickibg make sure you have fan cooling and even improved thetmsl pafs/paste especailly on the u derside!!!!!

IF I understand your scribble, no, I didn't invent the mod, obviously. Evidently neither did Nemercry based on his being accused of copying it from someone on another forum. Maybe it was your idea originally but you didn't fly with it so others took up the task since several of us were looking for a way to overclock our pods.
I never claimed any of the mods were my origination! Never! But I did come up with a simpler way to change R52 (R139) using a standard 1/4W axial resistor, and I came up with the most efficient value of 49.9k where power usage and max profit go. I also came up with the 5V USB mod.
Some say that 47k works the best for them but I doubt they can achieve the same results with the same low number of HW errors or less.
Anyway, this is all part of a group based evolution to achieve an end result for the benefit of all miners. My goal was 24/7 operation and maximum profit from my miners. I have achieved this weeks ago now and I am happy with the results. R52 mod IS the ONLY way to go IMO and I'm sticking with it. Wink

gtraah

sr. member

Activity: 420

Merit: 250

Can I get a second opinion on these 2 chips that I blew, are they the same and both -

Device Type: FERRITE BEAD_R1206_300OHM@100MH
Value: 300ohm@100MHz,3A

As happydaze.

ANd guys be very careful those heatsink edges are VERY sharp , It basically pin-pricked the red cable and caused this short circuit

gtraah

sr. member

Activity: 420

Merit: 250

Quote from: wolfey2014 on April 28, 2014, 07:49:25 AM

Quote from: gtraah on April 28, 2014, 06:45:32 AM

Ok Guys I have modded 19 Pods and Itest each one after I have done it.. Now got all 19 and I plugged them all in together for the first time after being successfully tested individually, anyway So I plugged them all in flicked the Powersupply switch and this is when I hear a small POP and flame like someone lit a match I INSTANTLY FREAKED OUT AND POWERED EVERYTHING OFF, OPENED THE POD in concern and this is what I see, I AM FURIOUS ANGRY as I HAVE TESTED EACH POD after I mod it and al worked perfect accepted shares NO HW and all perfect, but now that I plug the power in all of them I hear this POP and flames.

Please tell me what may have gone wrong here, Not enough power on the PSU cable? But not enuough power should NOT make this burn up and POP the moment I flicked he switch right? Anyway can someone PLEASE tell me the 2 chips I burnt I really would like to repair this pod... Its a waste, I am lost as to why this occured. I am using Acritc Mx-2 Compound- NON CONDUCtIvE so this could not have caused a short.

Please if someone can help me find these chips will be greatly appreciated.

HERE IS THE PICTURE OF THE 2 BURNED OUT CHIPS, THEY LOOK THE SAME SHAPE AND SIZE. IT WOULD BE GOOD IF THEY WERE THE SAME CHIPS.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qymhbmgvu5raq1t/20140428_203015.jpg

If someone can also give me an idea how this may have happened, please remember I test each POD after I mod and wait for a few shares to be accepted before I screw it all back together and this went in flames the second i turned the power on ... I was thinking maybe I tightened it to tight and the copper heat sink touched something to short out? And no I have not used any copper shims yet.

Sounds to me that perhaps when you put the top heat sink back on and tightened it down, it shorted out on something like perhaps the fan red + lead? That will cause some fireworks/magic black smoke. Perhaps you should test the pod after you put it all back together too?
The burned out components look like Ferret beads to me. Good luck!

WOlfey!!!,Your a Genius!! Guess what it was?? The red wire got caught on one of the heat sinks sharp edges and when I tightened it down it pierced it!I knew it couldnt of been the power... So now can someone confirm the exact part is what happydaze has said?? and do you think it would be any other parts that are not visibly burned out? Or the instant those chips burned no power could get to the rest of the board. Those 2 chips sacrafised themselves for the board , something like that lol

Topic: GridSeed 5-chip USB miner voltage mod - page 20. (Read 156991 times)