we should start a GB for 47k and 49,9k 0402 resistors
can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only
Really? can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only
I bought 50 on ebay germany for 1 Euro.. 
Topic: GridSeed 5-chip USB miner voltage mod - page 46. (Read 156988 times)
I bought 50 on ebay germany for 1 Euro.. 
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.
I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working. I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes. Anywhere else I can tie into? Maybe from the bottom if I have to?
Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!
The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.
De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.
Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.
Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!
Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made
Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
http://i.imgur.com/OZLPrVE.jpg
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014
OK redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed. I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it. So I think its in the circuit. I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.
So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right. Any ideas?
I would like to get this one up and running before I try another. I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.
One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green? That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
http://i.imgur.com/ZG5AR9V.jpg
I see micky mouse has been hard at work!
Just kidding Hashfire! Looks like,,,nah, never mind...Anyway, good try. Still it looks like your solder just isn't getting hot enough to melt properly.
Also, the rear point next to the edge of the card might be open although I can't see how it could be, unless it was made that way by accident.
You need to test probe more than just the resistor. That won't tell you what you need to know.
You need to test probe between the inner solder point and the pin of the chip it connects to. You can see the copper (red coated) track going from the solder point to the chip's pin. You need to probe that point and the resistor to make sure you have 100% continuity between those two points. Same for the rear outer solder point next to the edge of the card and the outer solder point of the original SMD resistor where there is nothing soldered to it now.
Make sure you have good continuity there. If not, then your connection/s is/are still open.
Yes, you can bridge between the outer solder pad/point of the original SMD and the new resistor solder point, unless somehow Gridseed engineers decided to change that trace for some reason, which is highly doubtful.
Lastly, but actually primary and firstly, did you ever check the performance of the miner before you made the modification? I always do this before making any changes. It is very important to make sure your pod isn't a piece of junk in the first place, eh?
You know the drill. You do the work, you take all the risk and responsibility for the outcome.
God speed, my son!
Wolfey2014
I did test the miner before modding, it was running the previous 2 bridge mod without major problem as far as I know. I can turn up the heat, I believe I have been using around 350C. Any recomendation on amount of heat to use? It was working for everything else ok, I was fearful of turning up too much since I know too much heat is dangerous too. It's a new soldering station but quite an improvement from the old.
Can you make a diagram to show where I should be testing with the DMM? I know it would be quite helpful for me and probably helpful for others in the future.
I am planning test CPU minergonight, but I don't think that will make much difference. I then will take it apart again tonight, clean it all up best I can use, a new 49.9k resistor that I have first tinned and have a clean go using flux and some more heat. This has been a mess but it's a mess of my making. Assuming the main chips are ok yet, I think the damage can be reversed and I can get it up and running at least in stock form.
Hashfire, Do yourself a favor and get some soldering flux (like wolfey mentioned) and copper braid. You have WAY too much solder on there which is likely causing your heat transfer problems. The solution isn't to always turn up the heat. Solder flux will help the heat and solder flow easily to all of the components. You can actually damage your tips by using excess heat if you don't have them tinned/maintained well enough. Put some solder flux on all of those joints, then use some copper braid on top of the joints and apply heat to the copper with your iron to remove that excess solder. Once you have it cleaned up, then worry about fixing the joints. Flux and braid will help you remove bridges as well. Also, if you see excess solder building up on the tip of your iron, just wipe it off on a wet sponge and go back at it. It's important to keep your tip tinned and clean. You can find braid and flux at your local radioshack if you're in the U.S.
Thanks, I have some liquid soldering flux, in a pen. Kind of like this. http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?sku=70177953&mkwid=6kTPp5T7&pcrid=18584040739&gclid=CP28hsas4L0CFUVgMgodrC0Aew I will take it all apart, clean with rubbing alcohol on a QTip, flux, tin and try again. I do hae the wet sponge and braid. Not my first time, but this one just hasn't gone well. Thanks for the help.
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.
I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working. I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes. Anywhere else I can tie into? Maybe from the bottom if I have to?
Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!
The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.
De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.
Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.
Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!
Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made
Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014
OK redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed. I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it. So I think its in the circuit. I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.
So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right. Any ideas?
I would like to get this one up and running before I try another. I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.
One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green? That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
I see micky mouse has been hard at work!
Just kidding Hashfire! Looks like,,,nah, never mind...Anyway, good try. Still it looks like your solder just isn't getting hot enough to melt properly.
Also, the rear point next to the edge of the card might be open although I can't see how it could be, unless it was made that way by accident.
You need to test probe more than just the resistor. That won't tell you what you need to know.
You need to test probe between the inner solder point and the pin of the chip it connects to. You can see the copper (red coated) track going from the solder point to the chip's pin. You need to probe that point and the resistor to make sure you have 100% continuity between those two points. Same for the rear outer solder point next to the edge of the card and the outer solder point of the original SMD resistor where there is nothing soldered to it now.
Make sure you have good continuity there. If not, then your connection/s is/are still open.
Yes, you can bridge between the outer solder pad/point of the original SMD and the new resistor solder point, unless somehow Gridseed engineers decided to change that trace for some reason, which is highly doubtful.
Lastly, but actually primary and firstly, did you ever check the performance of the miner before you made the modification? I always do this before making any changes. It is very important to make sure your pod isn't a piece of junk in the first place, eh?
You know the drill. You do the work, you take all the risk and responsibility for the outcome.
God speed, my son!
Wolfey2014
I did test the miner before modding, it was running the previous 2 bridge mod without major problem as far as I know. I can turn up the heat, I believe I have been using around 350C. Any recomendation on amount of heat to use? It was working for everything else ok, I was fearful of turning up too much since I know too much heat is dangerous too. It's a new soldering station but quite an improvement from the old.
Can you make a diagram to show where I should be testing with the DMM? I know it would be quite helpful for me and probably helpful for others in the future.
I am planning test CPU minergonight, but I don't think that will make much difference. I then will take it apart again tonight, clean it all up best I can use, a new 49.9k resistor that I have first tinned and have a clean go using flux and some more heat. This has been a mess but it's a mess of my making. Assuming the main chips are ok yet, I think the damage can be reversed and I can get it up and running at least in stock form.
Hashfire, Do yourself a favor and get some soldering flux (like wolfey mentioned) and copper braid. You have WAY too much solder on there which is likely causing your heat transfer problems. The solution isn't to always turn up the heat. Solder flux will help the heat and solder flow easily to all of the components. You can actually damage your tips by using excess heat if you don't have them tinned/maintained well enough. Put some solder flux on all of those joints, then use some copper braid on top of the joints and apply heat to the copper with your iron to remove that excess solder. Once you have it cleaned up, then worry about fixing the joints. Flux and braid will help you remove bridges as well. Also, if you see excess solder building up on the tip of your iron, just wipe it off on a wet sponge and go back at it. It's important to keep your tip tinned and clean. You can find braid and flux at your local radioshack if you're in the U.S.
we should start a GB for 47k and 49,9k 0402 resistors
can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only
can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.
I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working. I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes. Anywhere else I can tie into? Maybe from the bottom if I have to?
Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!
The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.
De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.
Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.
Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!
Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made
Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
http://i.imgur.com/OZLPrVE.jpg
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014
OK redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed. I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it. So I think its in the circuit. I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.
So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right. Any ideas?
I would like to get this one up and running before I try another. I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.
One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green? That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
http://i.imgur.com/ZG5AR9V.jpg
I see micky mouse has been hard at work!
Just kidding Hashfire! Looks like,,,nah, never mind...Anyway, good try. Still it looks like your solder just isn't getting hot enough to melt properly.
Also, the rear point next to the edge of the card might be open although I can't see how it could be, unless it was made that way by accident.
You need to test probe more than just the resistor. That won't tell you what you need to know.
You need to test probe between the inner solder point and the pin of the chip it connects to. You can see the copper (red coated) track going from the solder point to the chip's pin. You need to probe that point and the resistor to make sure you have 100% continuity between those two points. Same for the rear outer solder point next to the edge of the card and the outer solder point of the original SMD resistor where there is nothing soldered to it now.
Make sure you have good continuity there. If not, then your connection/s is/are still open.
Yes, you can bridge between the outer solder pad/point of the original SMD and the new resistor solder point, unless somehow Gridseed engineers decided to change that trace for some reason, which is highly doubtful.
Lastly, but actually primary and firstly, did you ever check the performance of the miner before you made the modification? I always do this before making any changes. It is very important to make sure your pod isn't a piece of junk in the first place, eh?
You know the drill. You do the work, you take all the risk and responsibility for the outcome.
God speed, my son!
Wolfey2014
I did test the miner before modding, it was running the previous 2 bridge mod without major problem as far as I know. I can turn up the heat, I believe I have been using around 350C. Any recomendation on amount of heat to use? It was working for everything else ok, I was fearful of turning up too much since I know too much heat is dangerous too. It's a new soldering station but quite an improvement from the old.
Can you make a diagram to show where I should be testing with the DMM? I know it would be quite helpful for me and probably helpful for others in the future.
I am planning test CPU minergonight, but I don't think that will make much difference. I then will take it apart again tonight, clean it all up best I can use, a new 49.9k resistor that I have first tinned and have a clean go using flux and some more heat. This has been a mess but it's a mess of my making. Assuming the main chips are ok yet, I think the damage can be reversed and I can get it up and running at least in stock form.
try CPUminer, BFGminer did not submit shares correctly for me.
Thanks I will try this tonight. Any reason why all the sudden BFGminer would not work? Or does it not just work with the higher modded units? I am currently using the hashra image on my Raspberry pi to run the bulk of the miners, so hoping to stay with BFG.
try CPUminer, BFGminer did not submit shares correctly for me.
Thanks I will try this tonight. Any reason why all the sudden BFGminer would not work? Or does it not just work with the higher modded units? I am currently using the hashra image on my Raspberry pi to run the bulk of the miners, so hoping to stay with BFG.
Looks like only 1 chip is working. Using version 3.99 of BFGminer (maybe even your version in your screen shot), you can go into Manage Devices and scroll through the 2 grisdseed units and confirm if it's just one chip submitting shares. Sometimes rebooting the USB and Miners will correct 1 or 2 chips not responding...sometimes only a pool/coin change can kick it back to life. But I've never seen just 1 chip working and the other 4 dead. If you can't get it professionally brought back up to spec for less than $150, might be time to cut your losses and learn from the mistakes and buy a new miner. I am going to take one of mine into a local laptop repair shop that does SMD resistor repair to look at my dead one. I only messed with it because it was the black sheep of the group that was working well enough (sometimes) not to send back under warranty...so I went ahead and FUBAR'd a volt mod to see what the board would do.
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.
I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working. I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes. Anywhere else I can tie into? Maybe from the bottom if I have to?
Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!
The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.
De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.
Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.
Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!
Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made
Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014
OK redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed. I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it. So I think its in the circuit. I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.
So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right. Any ideas?
I would like to get this one up and running before I try another. I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.
One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green? That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
I see micky mouse has been hard at work!
Just kidding Hashfire! Looks like,,,nah, never mind...Anyway, good try. Still it looks like your solder just isn't getting hot enough to melt properly.
Also, the rear point next to the edge of the card might be open although I can't see how it could be, unless it was made that way by accident.
You need to test probe more than just the resistor. That won't tell you what you need to know.
You need to test probe between the inner solder point and the pin of the chip it connects to. You can see the copper (red coated) track going from the solder point to the chip's pin. You need to probe that point and the resistor to make sure you have 100% continuity between those two points. Same for the rear outer solder point next to the edge of the card and the outer solder point of the original SMD resistor where there is nothing soldered to it now.
Make sure you have good continuity there. If not, then your connection/s is/are still open.
Yes, you can bridge between the outer solder pad/point of the original SMD and the new resistor solder point, unless somehow Gridseed engineers decided to change that trace for some reason, which is highly doubtful.
Lastly, but actually primary and firstly, did you ever check the performance of the miner before you made the modification? I always do this before making any changes. It is very important to make sure your pod isn't a piece of junk in the first place, eh?
You know the drill. You do the work, you take all the risk and responsibility for the outcome.
God speed, my son!
Wolfey2014
try CPUminer, BFGminer did not submit shares correctly for me.
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
http://i.imgur.com/EgWRBBH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0nWg0uA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EgWRBBH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0nWg0uA.jpg
Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.
I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working. I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes. Anywhere else I can tie into? Maybe from the bottom if I have to?
Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!
The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.
De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.
Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.
Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!
Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made
Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
http://i.imgur.com/OZLPrVE.jpg
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014
OK redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed. I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it. So I think its in the circuit. I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.
http://i.imgur.com/DuIiU0L.jpg
So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right. Any ideas?
http://i.imgur.com/J1bc9zi.png
I would like to get this one up and running before I try another. I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.
One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green? That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
http://i.imgur.com/ZG5AR9V.jpg
or you could man up and use these.... http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17500/thr-182/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_60_x_50_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290#blank
I had some left over and gave it a whirl. Maybe it does something or maybe not, I don't have an IR thermometer to test.
I had some left over and gave it a whirl. Maybe it does something or maybe not, I don't have an IR thermometer to test.
Wow...17.0W/mk...Looking Super to me...Will give this a shot...
Thanks for the info, buddy...
Edit...: I use my fingers as IR thermometer...
or you could man up and use these.... http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17500/thr-182/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_60_x_50_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290#blank
I had some left over and gave it a whirl. Maybe it does something or maybe not, I don't have an IR thermometer to test.
I had some left over and gave it a whirl. Maybe it does something or maybe not, I don't have an IR thermometer to test.
anyone got a photo of the down part and how he applied thermal paste there?
Just an update
I applied some ceramic base thermal paste (Not electrically conductive) and re-ran my pods.
After 15 hours all my pods have over 5000 Accepted shares with 0 HW errors.
Looking good so far!
I applied some ceramic base thermal paste (Not electrically conductive) and re-ran my pods.
After 15 hours all my pods have over 5000 Accepted shares with 0 HW errors.
Looking good so far!
I can fully advise to add thermal paste too. Had similar results here.
Most of my pods run with 1188mhz with the 47k + thermal paste.
(sure there are still some who are not able to run that high, but it definitely has a positive effect)
Did you keep the stock pad and add thermal paste on that, or just did the thermal paste? cause it seems that some people have problems of the paste not making contact when using just paste due to leveling difference
Original thermal pad is piece of junk...I am not sure what are the specs...but look like after-thought...
Thermal paste ONLY...good one, like Gelid Extreme ...:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426020
...is enough, IMHO...
I am using Cooler Master MX-4...Top AND bottom...just had it handy...
If you have clearance...uneven surfaces problem...you could replace original pad(s) with really good ones like this one...:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13407/thr-112/Phobya_Thermal_Pad_XT_120mm_x_20mm_x_05mm_-_7Wmk_V-Regs_RAM_Ramplex_Koolance_MIPs_Innovatek_19099.html?tl=c487s1481b189&id=T7QP5mgI
Also you could use some small copper shims ...available in different sizes and thickness at E-bay and Amazon...
Hope it'll help...
ZiG
Just an update
I applied some ceramic base thermal paste (Not electrically conductive) and re-ran my pods.
After 15 hours all my pods have over 5000 Accepted shares with 0 HW errors.
Looking good so far!
I applied some ceramic base thermal paste (Not electrically conductive) and re-ran my pods.
After 15 hours all my pods have over 5000 Accepted shares with 0 HW errors.
Looking good so far!
I can fully advise to add thermal paste too. Had similar results here.
Most of my pods run with 1188mhz with the 47k + thermal paste.
(sure there are still some who are not able to run that high, but it definitely has a positive effect)
Did you keep the stock pad and add thermal paste on that, or just did the thermal paste? cause it seems that some people have problems of the paste not making contact when using just paste due to leveling difference
Just an update
I applied some ceramic base thermal paste (Not electrically conductive) and re-ran my pods.
After 15 hours all my pods have over 5000 Accepted shares with 0 HW errors.
Looking good so far!
I applied some ceramic base thermal paste (Not electrically conductive) and re-ran my pods.
After 15 hours all my pods have over 5000 Accepted shares with 0 HW errors.
Looking good so far!
I can fully advise to add thermal paste too. Had similar results here.
Most of my pods run with 1188mhz with the 47k + thermal paste.
(sure there are still some who are not able to run that high, but it definitely has a positive effect)
Is there a log somewhere with cgminer, cpuminer or others which shows the share and share difficulty so you can do the calculations?
Right now, im basically clearing out all my shares to get them back down to 0 then mine for a fixed amount of time and wait for all the shares to clear. Then I get the total earninngs, but it does require me to idle (or at least switch pools) to get those "clean" numbers.
Right now, im basically clearing out all my shares to get them back down to 0 then mine for a fixed amount of time and wait for all the shares to clear. Then I get the total earninngs, but it does require me to idle (or at least switch pools) to get those "clean" numbers.
My pool automatically changes the diff. Based on calculations, I should be getting around 0.5LTC (Based on Kh/s) and I get around there (0.488... LTC a day).
Ok, your share numbers sound unnecessary high to me, but if you can't change it.. Your earnings depend basically on (submitted shares)*(share difficulty), so it doesn't matter what difficulty you select, the number of submitted shares will adjust accordingly and the earnings should be the same (in the long run).But I guess it's going to far off-topic now..
Yeah, but it's not so much the coin but the pool. Or, better, the share difficulty you selected in the pool settings.
There is no point in submitting 300k shares in 15 hours (I guess you mean that??), it just generates a lot of unnecessary
traffic. I'd suggest to select a higher diff if that is really the case..
There is no point in submitting 300k shares in 15 hours (I guess you mean that??), it just generates a lot of unnecessary
traffic. I'd suggest to select a higher diff if that is really the case..
My pool automatically changes the diff. Based on calculations, I should be getting around 0.5LTC (Based on Kh/s) and I get around there (0.488... LTC a day).
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