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Topic: GridSeed 5-chip USB miner voltage mod - page 6. (Read 156991 times)

hero member
Activity: 798
Merit: 1000
Re: GridSeed 5-chip USB miner voltage mod

Can someone recommend me a cheap soldering iron to do this job? I found this, but a friend said that the tip was too big, and he told me to use this one.

Weller is a good brand, but to find the one to do the job, someone else might have to answer. You can find the pencils for cheap.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/279-0000000-0000000?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=weller+soldering

Thanks. By the way, does anyone know someone that still sells gridseed 5 chips?
hero member
Activity: 798
Merit: 1000
Can someone recommend me a cheap soldering iron to do this job? I found this, but a friend said that the tip was too big, and he told me to use this one.
sr. member
Activity: 252
Merit: 254

Some of the specs on that part look excessive.  You'll want to match the specs as closely to this as possible: https://www.dropbox.com/s/w4m5vu4k5jgopk8/qm3022m6_ubiq.pdf

It's basically a 30v N-Channel mosfet with a 7mOhm RDSon and a 76A ID@25c (Continuous current drain at 25c).  You'll want to match the gate charge as close as possible as well.

I burnt out that same mosfet (3022m) and replaced it with the following: http://www.ti.com/product/CSD17552Q5A.  I blew my mosfet when curiosity got the best of me and I tried to dual mine with the voltmod at 1100Mhz.  Moral of the story...don't do that.  Don't even think of doing it.  I replaced my mosfet with the one from TI and it's back up and running but it's a little crippled.  Chip 3 seems to generate some errors no matter what speed, but it still hashes and I still get around 439khs from that gridseed.

I use 39AMP ID@25C mosfet just because i couldn't find more then 39AMP. there is few pin exposed on the bottom of the board. which was isolated by thermal pad. when i swap the pad with grease, those exposed shorted with the ground. and my 12 volt was off. nothing blew. so i think this mosfet start draining the current before any other part(like FB23/24) damage. which making me think that its better to use lower amp? i am not expert on this, what you think?

Well, I don't think the seeds "require" 76A - especially in scrypt only mode, but when replacing a part you should always try to match the original specs as close as possible when we don't know the original design engineering considerations. 

As for the short - I think you're lucky Wink  Shorts often don't leave components untouched - so I'd be on the lookout on that particular gridseed for any premature failure down the road.
member
Activity: 71
Merit: 10

Some of the specs on that part look excessive.  You'll want to match the specs as closely to this as possible: https://www.dropbox.com/s/w4m5vu4k5jgopk8/qm3022m6_ubiq.pdf

It's basically a 30v N-Channel mosfet with a 7mOhm RDSon and a 76A ID@25c (Continuous current drain at 25c).  You'll want to match the gate charge as close as possible as well.

I burnt out that same mosfet (3022m) and replaced it with the following: http://www.ti.com/product/CSD17552Q5A.  I blew my mosfet when curiosity got the best of me and I tried to dual mine with the voltmod at 1100Mhz.  Moral of the story...don't do that.  Don't even think of doing it.  I replaced my mosfet with the one from TI and it's back up and running but it's a little crippled.  Chip 3 seems to generate some errors no matter what speed, but it still hashes and I still get around 439khs from that gridseed.

I use 39AMP ID@25C mosfet just because i couldn't find more then 39AMP. there is few pin exposed on the bottom of the board. which was isolated by thermal pad. when i swap the pad with grease, those exposed shorted with the ground. and my 12 volt was off. nothing blew. so i think this mosfet start draining the current before any other part(like FB23/24) damage. which making me think that its better to use lower amp? i am not expert on this, what you think?
sr. member
Activity: 252
Merit: 254
I have had 0 luck finding these. Can an expert here help me to find these or find something that will work to replace these? I can't believe I'm the only person here who had a problem with them getting hot and breaking.... These are 2 seperate pods and both chips look the same like the got hot and cracked Huh

Ahhh ok yeah I can order that part.... Also I need that k3 ocv 1500 2.5v capacitor as well. But trying to find it on mouser is a pain cause I don't know what type of cap it is lol I know I'm a noob I can solder and des older just can't tell you what these parts actually are or do :-/

One of these (on Mouser) should work to replace that cap for you:
(lower ESR, high max operating temp -105c)http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/RHS0E152MCN1GS/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7Ye%2fNPNo2iY8dAf%2fDSLl3Rms%3d
(almost identical to the one above) http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/RPS0E152MCN1GS/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YQV4YX3XLubtqqhNcJzO7dE%3d
(Higher ESR rating - may not matter) http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lelon/OVU152M0ETR-1013/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YSq9fmJ9q4PS0C50raOgimc%3d
hero member
Activity: 1008
Merit: 501

[/quote]


I have had 0 luck finding these. Can an expert here help me to find these or find something that will work to replace these? I can't believe I'm the only person here who had a problem with them getting hot and breaking.... These are 2 seperate pods and both chips look the same like the got hot and cracked Huh
[/quote]

U29 is a "dual unbuffered inverter"  http://www.nxp.com/products/logic/buffers_inverters_drivers/series/74HC2GU04.html - see the ordering tab on that same page

I posted that back on May 14, have you tried that link and through the Order tab?  If so you should have seen that Mouser carries that part (direct link: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP-Semiconductors/74HC2GU04GW125/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutVWjHE%2fYQwzJv2zzn7Nf7MNFQIOCd6fU%3d)


That at least gets you one part.  I'll try to see if I can locate the other (not likely since UPI is almost exclusively overseas) or see if I can find a close match as a replacement.
[/quote]


Ahhh ok yeah I can order that part.... Also I need that k3 ocv 1500 2.5v capacitor as well. But trying to find it on mouser is a pain cause I don't know what type of cap it is lol I know I'm a noob I can solder and des older just can't tell you what these parts actually are or do :-/
sr. member
Activity: 252
Merit: 254
First looks like:

Code:
LISTING: 1 element(s)

       < COMPONENT INSTANCE >

  Reference Designator: U29
  Package Symbol:       SOT23-6

  Component Class:      IC
  Device Type:          PCF8574_P_0_SOT23-6_74HC2GU04
    Value:              74HC2GU04

  Placement Status:     PLACED
    origin-xy:         (1467.57 867.87)
    rotation:           0.000  degrees
    not_mirrored

  Function(s):
    Designator: F8
    Type:       PCF8574_P_0_SOT23-6_74HC2GU04
    Pin(s):     1, 6, 3, 4, 2...

  Properties attached to component definition
    VALUE             = 74HC2GU04

  Pin IO Information:
    Pin     Type      SigNoise Model          Net
    ---     ----      --------------          ---
    1       UNSPEC                            CLK
    2       UNSPEC                            DGND
    3       UNSPEC                            CLK
    4       UNSPEC                            N31664886
    5       UNSPEC                            OVDD33
    6       UNSPEC                            N31664859


Second looks like:

Code:
LISTING: 1 element(s)

       < COMPONENT INSTANCE >

  Reference Designator: U9
  Package Symbol:       SOT23_5

  Component Class:      IC
  Device Type:          SN74AHCT1G125_0_SOT23_5_UP0111
    Value:              UP0111

  Placement Status:     PLACED
    origin-xy:         (296.48 1497.43)
    rotation:           90.000  degrees
    not_mirrored

  Function(s):
    Designator: F4
    Type:       SN74AHCT1G125_0_SOT23_5_UP0111
    Pin(s):     3, 4, 1, 5, 2

  Properties attached to component instance
    ROOM              = OCD_CRT

  Properties attached to component definition
    VALUE             = UP0111

  Pin IO Information:
    Pin     Type      SigNoise Model          Net
    ---     ----      --------------          ---
    1       UNSPEC                            OVDD33
    2       UNSPEC                            DGND
    3       UNSPEC                            OVDD33
    4       UNSPEC                            N31931394
    5       UNSPEC                            DVDD_PLL


Hopefully you or one of the experts here know what they are because I don't.


I have had 0 luck finding these. Can an expert here help me to find these or find something that will work to replace these? I can't believe I'm the only person here who had a problem with them getting hot and breaking.... These are 2 seperate pods and both chips look the same like the got hot and cracked Huh

U29 is a "dual unbuffered inverter"  http://www.nxp.com/products/logic/buffers_inverters_drivers/series/74HC2GU04.html - see the ordering tab on that same page

I posted that back on May 14, have you tried that link and through the Order tab?  If so you should have seen that Mouser carries that part (direct link: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP-Semiconductors/74HC2GU04GW125/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutVWjHE%2fYQwzJv2zzn7Nf7MNFQIOCd6fU%3d)


That at least gets you one part.  I'll try to see if I can locate the other (not likely since UPI is almost exclusively overseas) or see if I can find a close match as a replacement.

:EDIT:  I did some quick searching and it looks like ON Semiconductor has a very close match to the original part.  It has a higher accuracy rating but a lower output current (by 100mA....may or may not be a concern).  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CAT6219ADJTD-GT3/CAT6219ADJTD-GT3-ND/2271436
Another possible match (Same specs except a slightly higher minimum input voltage) http://www.silergy.com/productsview/sy6306b
 
Those are the closest matches I could find.  Maybe someone else can try if they haven't already.  If I have time tomorrow I can check some more.
hero member
Activity: 1008
Merit: 501
First looks like:

Code:
LISTING: 1 element(s)

       < COMPONENT INSTANCE >

  Reference Designator: U29
  Package Symbol:       SOT23-6

  Component Class:      IC
  Device Type:          PCF8574_P_0_SOT23-6_74HC2GU04
    Value:              74HC2GU04

  Placement Status:     PLACED
    origin-xy:         (1467.57 867.87)
    rotation:           0.000  degrees
    not_mirrored

  Function(s):
    Designator: F8
    Type:       PCF8574_P_0_SOT23-6_74HC2GU04
    Pin(s):     1, 6, 3, 4, 2...

  Properties attached to component definition
    VALUE             = 74HC2GU04

  Pin IO Information:
    Pin     Type      SigNoise Model          Net
    ---     ----      --------------          ---
    1       UNSPEC                            CLK
    2       UNSPEC                            DGND
    3       UNSPEC                            CLK
    4       UNSPEC                            N31664886
    5       UNSPEC                            OVDD33
    6       UNSPEC                            N31664859


Second looks like:

Code:
LISTING: 1 element(s)

       < COMPONENT INSTANCE >

  Reference Designator: U9
  Package Symbol:       SOT23_5

  Component Class:      IC
  Device Type:          SN74AHCT1G125_0_SOT23_5_UP0111
    Value:              UP0111

  Placement Status:     PLACED
    origin-xy:         (296.48 1497.43)
    rotation:           90.000  degrees
    not_mirrored

  Function(s):
    Designator: F4
    Type:       SN74AHCT1G125_0_SOT23_5_UP0111
    Pin(s):     3, 4, 1, 5, 2

  Properties attached to component instance
    ROOM              = OCD_CRT

  Properties attached to component definition
    VALUE             = UP0111

  Pin IO Information:
    Pin     Type      SigNoise Model          Net
    ---     ----      --------------          ---
    1       UNSPEC                            OVDD33
    2       UNSPEC                            DGND
    3       UNSPEC                            OVDD33
    4       UNSPEC                            N31931394
    5       UNSPEC                            DVDD_PLL


Hopefully you or one of the experts here know what they are because I don't.


I have had 0 luck finding these. Can an expert here help me to find these or find something that will work to replace these? I can't believe I'm the only person here who had a problem with them getting hot and breaking.... These are 2 seperate pods and both chips look the same like the got hot and cracked Huh
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
my mofset is not blown its the 2 FBs But everytime i place new FB, 5 seconds later They crackle and pop again. I was told it is most likely a faulty mofset causing this.. Man that site is awesome I actually ordered 3 mofsets as samples for free !!
sr. member
Activity: 252
Merit: 254

Some of the specs on that part look excessive.  You'll want to match the specs as closely to this as possible: https://www.dropbox.com/s/w4m5vu4k5jgopk8/qm3022m6_ubiq.pdf

It's basically a 30v N-Channel mosfet with a 7mOhm RDSon and a 76A ID@25c (Continuous current drain at 25c).  You'll want to match the gate charge as close as possible as well.

I burnt out that same mosfet (3022m) and replaced it with the following: http://www.ti.com/product/CSD17552Q5A.  I blew my mosfet when curiosity got the best of me and I tried to dual mine with the voltmod at 1100Mhz.  Moral of the story...don't do that.  Don't even think of doing it.  I replaced my mosfet with the one from TI and it's back up and running but it's a little crippled.  Chip 3 seems to generate some errors no matter what speed, but it still hashes and I still get around 439khs from that gridseed.
sr. member
Activity: 378
Merit: 250

I haven't had to salvage any popped seeds yet so....
But I think Amix or Zig or HappyDaze can give you the correct answer.

God speed!
sr. member
Activity: 378
Merit: 250
Thanks, Wolfey, that makes sense. Do you know if the rest of the chips should work if the blown one is removed? Would like to test them first before trying to replace the chip.


Well, you need a good DVM so you can test for shorts between 12V + and - after you remove the bad chip
If it's open (not shorted) then you may have a good chance at the other 4 being good.
Only way to tell is to try it. But I'd put a 2 or 5 amp fuse on the 12V input power just in case it's still shorted somewhere.
Others have already done this surgery so maybe they can chime in and tell you what they did specifically.
I haven't had any problems with my pods so I can't help you much other than what I've suggested thus far.

Good luck and god speed!
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
member
Activity: 413
Merit: 10
Thanks, Wolfey, that makes sense. Do you know if the rest of the chips should work if the blown one is removed? Would like to test them first before trying to replace the chip.
sr. member
Activity: 378
Merit: 250
Well, I think I've got another case of blown FB24 and FB23. Modded 10 pods last night and one refused to hash although it was recognized by cpuminer. Opened it up and here is what I saw

I also noticed some bubbling on the centre chip and brown residue on the thermal pad.
I'm guessing the chip is gone, what are the odds the rest will work if I replace the beads? Anything I can check to confirm? Should I avoid using that barrel plug? It was working fine before the mod.  I've got a multimeter and am not afraid to use it. Thanks in advance!



I think that your heat sink was not seated properly on the center chip and that is why it fried after you over-volted it. You can clearly see that there are no indents where the chips are supposed to contact with the top sink plate via the pad.
The center chip over heated (as it would be hotter when overclocked) shorted out and the 2 FB's released their magic black smoke.
That's all that happened. No big mystery.

Try re-seating the top half heat sink so it touches the chips like it's supposed to. Otherwise it will just act like a air flow shield and keep the chips from being cooled at all.

Of course, replace the bad chips first Wink

Good luck!
member
Activity: 413
Merit: 10
Hey, thanks for the response! I don't think the red fan wire got pinched, it examined it closely and see no marks on it of any kind. I think it got blown off when the ferrite bead exploded and that's what left the burn mark on the edge of the thermal pad as well.
full member
Activity: 140
Merit: 100
toxicOn - that one looks like the red fan wire got pinched on the edge of the heatsink and caused a short.
You can see that the thermal pad did not make contact with the gridseed chips on the side where the missing red fan wire should be as if the red wire was caught under the edge. And you can see the burn mark on that edge.

You may be able to replace the other burnt parts and get it working, I don't know.  The pods have dropped in price so much that you might be better off just replacing it.

I have one pod where the center chip ended up burning up (because of a short) and it continues to hash away (center chip removed) on two chips at 1200MHz, 200+ kh/s.  Be cautious though, not worth starting a fire.   At first mine worked but the amps were way to high for me to leave it unattended.  It's around 10 watts on 2 chips at 1200MHz now so I feel better about it.

If you are not 100% confident in it don't risk causing a fire.  In the photo, it looks to me like there may be other shorts along the path of the missing red wire.
member
Activity: 71
Merit: 10
Well, I think I've got another case of blown FB24 and FB23. Modded 10 pods last night and one refused to hash although it was recognized by cpuminer. Opened it up and here is what I saw


I also noticed some bubbling on the centre chip and brown residue on the thermal pad.
I'm guessing the chip is gone, what are the odds the rest will work if I replace the beads? Anything I can check to confirm? Should I avoid using that barrel plug? It was working fine before the mod.  I've got a multimeter and am not afraid to use it. Thanks in advance!




Just check the continuity , if there is no short between 12+ and gnd, it should work.
member
Activity: 413
Merit: 10
Well, I think I've got another case of blown FB24 and FB23. Modded 10 pods last night and one refused to hash although it was recognized by cpuminer. Opened it up and here is what I saw


I also noticed some bubbling on the centre chip and brown residue on the thermal pad.
I'm guessing the chip is gone, what are the odds the rest will work if I replace the beads? Anything I can check to confirm? Should I avoid using that barrel plug? It was working fine before the mod.  I've got a multimeter and am not afraid to use it. Thanks in advance!

member
Activity: 84
Merit: 10

Does anybody know what I can do if I do not have a multimeter? I have got 2 pods just sitting there, These few posts above tell the story, so far I have been told to do something but I do not have a multimeter to check continuity, is there anything else I can do? I or is what is said above the absolute only thing i can try at this point?
in time of need ive done a a diy tester. basically battery two bits of wire and a light bulb, or led and resistor. or if you have a tourch thats metal unscrew the bottom one wire onto the case the other onto the battery termanial. granted not great but for testing continutity works. few corc clips help here, or paper clips to hold things in place. you could use a buzzer as well. you just want somethign that will show you theres a complete circuit, light, led (use resistor in series!) buzzer


EXCIRSE CAUTION AND COMMON SENSE THOUGH. ALSO BE AWARE USING TOO HIGH A VOLT BATTERY IE 9v COULD CAUSE DAMAGE.
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