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Topic: GridSeed 5-chip USB miner voltage mod - page 7. (Read 157001 times)

sr. member
Activity: 252
Merit: 254
Yes, you really need a multimeter in order to test continuity.  If you're doing anything with electronics, you should have a multimeter that does at least basic testing including continuity.  It's an investment in a tool you'll find very handy quite often.
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
Hey guys I fixed my other miner with the blown Ferrite bead, This was easy to fix because I knew what the problem was, now all miners are fine until I noticed 2 miners in the back of the group with the green lights flashing but the fan not spinning , Im like HUUUUHHHH So I pulled it apart and guess what was blown

2 Ferrite beads the ones Close together Not the ones that a far apart The ones that are Right next to each other sitting on the board like 2 ferrite twins, infact I saw another user on here claiming the same thing happening. I have a strong feeling that the cause for this was a bad power lead
/ Barrel ending, I now have thrown this in the bin.

I am sure the people who may give me advise will know what I am talking about,, luckily I have the same ferrite beads as I have ordered  these to repair the 1 x ferrite bead that I blew because I shorted out the red wire accidently.

Anyway I have now wasted 4 ferrite beads ... Basically the copper pads where these ferrite beads are meant to go are fukd, although they are fucked I was able to solder onto as I think there is still contact to the main board.. problem is when I did this and plugged the an on I instantly see sparkes and the ferrite bead goes RED hot I mean this all happens in 1 second and then I unplug it. Now I would like to ask the wizards in here, instead of throwing away 2 seeds as I feel I have 10 CHIPS that can mine but just need a way too, Maybe I can lower the frequency I dont know can I get some help here on a way I can salvage these 2 pods?

Visible issue 2 ferrite beads on each board blown, 2 boards & 2 ferrite beads = 4 ferrite beads Gone.... I do have spare ferrite beads but if there is a way to bypass these beads somehow I feel it wold be better, Even If I run these 2 seeds at 800Mhz  And 5v Fan Or something...

Please some advise would be great

Hello,

are you based in EU?

thanks

I am Based in OCeania - Australia - Sydney Smiley



check the continuity here and if it is shorted, take off the mosfet with hot air gun. make sure you take the pcb off from bottom heatsink and pad, otherwise it will not come off. i used 300 c with full air speed. took around 2 min and the mosfet comes off . after take this off check your continuity between 12v+ and gnd. you shouldn't have any short. replace the parts and put your FB back on , you will be good to go(unless there any other parts demaged!)

The top yellow arrow is the first pin on top which is number 4(gate) and bottom 1-4 pin is Drain i think. if you find a short between gate and drain in a N channel mosfet, it known to be faulty.

Dammm I dont have a multimeter to check the continuency...

By the way, after I modded each pod I tested them, I waited for 3 accepted shares and then assembled them back together. If the mofset was faulty from birth dont you think this would have burnt up on the moment I plugged in to test....

One other thing, lets just say I burn the contact pretty bad basically between both FB the ones very close together , you can see the copper on the board all around these 2... I was wondering if because of this situation does these mean that its a constant short between 2 FB, I tried my best to make the solder not touching the other FB so each Dab of solder is on its own with each side of the FB, the solder is not connecting to one another but like I said underneith it is bare copper does this that both FB are shorting out via the copper?

Also is there a way to do what you said without a multimeter?? And are you saying that the Gridseeds can do without the mofset?

Does anybody know what I can do if I do not have a multimeter? I have got 2 pods just sitting there, These few posts above tell the story, so far I have been told to do something but I do not have a multimeter to check continuity, is there anything else I can do? I or is what is said above the absolute only thing i can try at this point?
member
Activity: 93
Merit: 10
Guys after doing the Volt mod and running at 1200Mhz for 3 weeks with no problems all the sudden I am getting lots of Nonce errors.

Any ideas on why? would it be a small change in room temperature?
sr. member
Activity: 378
Merit: 250
im on 12v thermal take 120mm fans so got cooling and no noise! Smiley

i was just bouncing ideas and suggestions around wolfey, trying to see a common factor wiht the blown FB that all.

I meant the fans that come with the pods....  Roll Eyes They ARE noisy @ 12V!
member
Activity: 84
Merit: 10
im on 12v thermal take 120mm fans so got cooling and no noise! Smiley

i was just bouncing ideas and suggestions around wolfey, trying to see a common factor wiht the blown FB that all.
sr. member
Activity: 378
Merit: 250
Just curious....but is the 5v USB fan mod on these gridseeds that have the failed USB ferrite bead?  It could be the added current usage of the fan stresses it enough over time to the point of failure as I'm sure the USB circuitry wasn't designed with the load of the fan in mind.  I'm not saying it can't handle it, because there is plenty of power from the USB port for a fan, but given the build quality of these things it really wouldn't surprise me.

Accidently overheating the FB while soldering the + fan wire to it can cause pre-mature failure. It only takes a few seconds of too much heat to burn one up, I am sure.

Besides the fan is only pulling 78mA, if that while running and maybe 140mA startup which lasts less than 2 seconds to spool up and stabilize.

By the way, I forgot to mention that I revised the 5V USB Fan power mod recently. Only days ago actually. So I'm late posting it. Sue me!  Tongue
On the last few batches of pods, the fan + is now connected to and powered by 12V input via 5V regulator on the PCB.
See pic.
snip

You can make the change easily if you wish to. I've been powering 6 of my miners via 5V USB for months now, for hundreds of hours straight now. No problems with the FB's! Wink Just be very careful not to overheat the components you are keeping on the pcb.

I know I didn't overheat any of them when soldering to them. It takes me less than a second to solder the wire to the tinned connections.
All is well.

By the way, all 20 were the latest plain aluminum colored pods. All heat sinks were evenly touching their respective chips. No components were on a different plane i.e. higher than the 5 main uP chips. Looks like they got the components mounted right on this run.
See pic.
snip

Look like the crystal is still high, you can clearly see the componet imprssion in the thermal pad. and several other componet impression as well.

Overheating could be a big factor. just curios thoose that have blown FB how are you running them? wiht 5v fan mod?, wiht no fan? top heat sink removed? its possible that the 5v fan mod isnt providing enough air flow for the FB causingthem to overheat. likewsie if there is no fan. if it overheating though lack of air flow, take all facotrinto account, ie climate, room temperture humidity, location of grids .

I know runnign them wihtout the top sink can cause them to overheat, i was testing them had top heat sink off, and fans (120mm) running next to them, which got knocked and i didnt notice and im pretty sure i fried a few grid chips, tried reflow to no use. the chips are recongised by cpuminer all of them but only 2 are hashing. anyone know where i can get a few grid chips from to replace the cooked ones?


The impressions the other components make are not keeping the main chips from being contacted hence cooled properly, is the point.
NONE of my original 6 miners of months old 24/7 operation have had ANY problem whatsoever with the 5V USB mod! NONE! Where they are located right now, they are running at a normal 98*F to 115*F and are just fine.
If you suspect your failed FET's, which are most likely the cause of the blown FB's, is due to lack of cooling, you are certainly welcome to revert back to 12V powered fans. It will be noisy but it will cool the pod better, obviously.

member
Activity: 84
Merit: 10
Just curious....but is the 5v USB fan mod on these gridseeds that have the failed USB ferrite bead?  It could be the added current usage of the fan stresses it enough over time to the point of failure as I'm sure the USB circuitry wasn't designed with the load of the fan in mind.  I'm not saying it can't handle it, because there is plenty of power from the USB port for a fan, but given the build quality of these things it really wouldn't surprise me.

Accidently overheating the FB while soldering the + fan wire to it can cause pre-mature failure. It only takes a few seconds of too much heat to burn one up, I am sure.

Besides the fan is only pulling 78mA, if that while running and maybe 140mA startup which lasts less than 2 seconds to spool up and stabilize.

By the way, I forgot to mention that I revised the 5V USB Fan power mod recently. Only days ago actually. So I'm late posting it. Sue me!  Tongue
On the last few batches of pods, the fan + is now connected to and powered by 12V input via 5V regulator on the PCB.
See pic.
 

You can make the change easily if you wish to. I've been powering 6 of my miners via 5V USB for months now, for hundreds of hours straight now. No problems with the FB's! Wink Just be very careful not to overheat the components you are keeping on the pcb.

I know I didn't overheat any of them when soldering to them. It takes me less than a second to solder the wire to the tinned connections.
All is well.

By the way, all 20 were the latest plain aluminum colored pods. All heat sinks were evenly touching their respective chips. No components were on a different plane i.e. higher than the 5 main uP chips. Looks like they got the components mounted right on this run.
See pic.


Look like the crystal is still high, you can clearly see the componet imprssion in the thermal pad. and several other componet impression as well.

Overheating could be a big factor. just curios thoose that have blown FB how are you running them? wiht 5v fan mod?, wiht no fan? top heat sink removed? its possible that the 5v fan mod isnt providing enough air flow for the FB causingthem to overheat. likewsie if there is no fan. if it overheating though lack of air flow, take all facotrinto account, ie climate, room temperture humidity, location of grids .

I know runnign them wihtout the top sink can cause them to overheat, i was testing them had top heat sink off, and fans (120mm) running next to them, which got knocked and i didnt notice and im pretty sure i fried a few grid chips, tried reflow to no use. the chips are recongised by cpuminer all of them but only 2 are hashing. anyone know where i can get a few grid chips from to replace the cooked ones?
full member
Activity: 238
Merit: 100
We must become the pitiless censors of ourselves.
Has anyone encountered the following problem?:

I am running 20 grid seeds off a pi running hashra controlla (BFG). These are recently volt-modded 47.7k resistor to go about 510khsh.
Controller shows very little hw rejects at 1200.


PROBLEM: They are showing 510khsh on the controller, but poolside they only report about half that.

When I take I clock it back down to 800 from 1200, controller and poolside are aligned at about 340 per unit.

Thanks in advance for any help.

not enough Power with the hub possibly a shit or cheap hub, I bet you if you only connect a few Grids they will allign with the pool.... This happened when I was using a shit hub + cgminer I reconnected to another hub and all went ok, Still Cgminer is very unstable very power sensitive

I have the recommended Orico ten port hubs.....hmmmm

Disconnect hub or power supply?

I will try only connecting two or three and see if there is alignment.
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
Has anyone encountered the following problem?:

I am running 20 grid seeds off a pi running hashra controlla (BFG). These are recently volt-modded 47.7k resistor to go about 510khsh.
Controller shows very little hw rejects at 1200.


PROBLEM: They are showing 510khsh on the controller, but poolside they only report about half that.

When I take I clock it back down to 800 from 1200, controller and poolside are aligned at about 340 per unit.

Thanks in advance for any help.

not enough Power with the hub possibly a shit or cheap hub, I bet you if you only connect a few Grids they will allign with the pool.... This happened when I was using a shit hub + cgminer I reconnected to another hub and all went ok, Still Cgminer is very unstable very power sensitive
full member
Activity: 238
Merit: 100
We must become the pitiless censors of ourselves.
Has anyone encountered the following problem?:

I am running 20 grid seeds off a pi running hashra controlla (BFG). These are recently volt-modded 47.7k resistor to go about 510khsh.
Controller shows very little hw rejects at 1200.


PROBLEM: They are showing 510khsh on the controller, but poolside they only report about half that.

When I take I clock it back down to 800 from 1200, controller and poolside are aligned at about 340 per unit.

Thanks in advance for any help.
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
I presume your FB23&24 is blown? They are in paralal. So touching each other shouldn't be matter I think. I have solder one on top of other one because I didn't have any pad to solder(plz don't do that its not recommanded.)

Do u have hot air station?

REally? Thats great thats saves some work then, So If I dont have any pad left i can solder one on top of the other? although it may not be recmennded if you can avoid doing so

yes I do have a hot air station, what do you recommend?
member
Activity: 71
Merit: 10
I presume your FB23&24 is blown? They are in paralal. So touching each other shouldn't be matter I think. I have solder one on top of other one because I didn't have any pad to solder(plz don't do that its not recommanded.)

Do u have hot air station?
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
Hey guys I fixed my other miner with the blown Ferrite bead, This was easy to fix because I knew what the problem was, now all miners are fine until I noticed 2 miners in the back of the group with the green lights flashing but the fan not spinning , Im like HUUUUHHHH So I pulled it apart and guess what was blown

2 Ferrite beads the ones Close together Not the ones that a far apart The ones that are Right next to each other sitting on the board like 2 ferrite twins, infact I saw another user on here claiming the same thing happening. I have a strong feeling that the cause for this was a bad power lead
/ Barrel ending, I now have thrown this in the bin.

I am sure the people who may give me advise will know what I am talking about,, luckily I have the same ferrite beads as I have ordered  these to repair the 1 x ferrite bead that I blew because I shorted out the red wire accidently.

Anyway I have now wasted 4 ferrite beads ... Basically the copper pads where these ferrite beads are meant to go are fukd, although they are fucked I was able to solder onto as I think there is still contact to the main board.. problem is when I did this and plugged the an on I instantly see sparkes and the ferrite bead goes RED hot I mean this all happens in 1 second and then I unplug it. Now I would like to ask the wizards in here, instead of throwing away 2 seeds as I feel I have 10 CHIPS that can mine but just need a way too, Maybe I can lower the frequency I dont know can I get some help here on a way I can salvage these 2 pods?

Visible issue 2 ferrite beads on each board blown, 2 boards & 2 ferrite beads = 4 ferrite beads Gone.... I do have spare ferrite beads but if there is a way to bypass these beads somehow I feel it wold be better, Even If I run these 2 seeds at 800Mhz  And 5v Fan Or something...

Please some advise would be great

Hello,

are you based in EU?

thanks

I am Based in OCeania - Australia - Sydney Smiley



check the continuity here and if it is shorted, take off the mosfet with hot air gun. make sure you take the pcb off from bottom heatsink and pad, otherwise it will not come off. i used 300 c with full air speed. took around 2 min and the mosfet comes off . after take this off check your continuity between 12v+ and gnd. you shouldn't have any short. replace the parts and put your FB back on , you will be good to go(unless there any other parts demaged!)

The top yellow arrow is the first pin on top which is number 4(gate) and bottom 1-4 pin is Drain i think. if you find a short between gate and drain in a N channel mosfet, it known to be faulty.

Dammm I dont have a multimeter to check the continuency...

By the way, after I modded each pod I tested them, I waited for 3 accepted shares and then assembled them back together. If the mofset was faulty from birth dont you think this would have burnt up on the moment I plugged in to test....

One other thing, lets just say I burn the contact pretty bad basically between both FB the ones very close together , you can see the copper on the board all around these 2... I was wondering if because of this situation does these mean that its a constant short between 2 FB, I tried my best to make the solder not touching the other FB so each Dab of solder is on its own with each side of the FB, the solder is not connecting to one another but like I said underneith it is bare copper does this that both FB are shorting out via the copper?

Also is there a way to do what you said without a multimeter?? And are you saying that the Gridseeds can do without the mofset?
member
Activity: 71
Merit: 10
Hey guys I fixed my other miner with the blown Ferrite bead, This was easy to fix because I knew what the problem was, now all miners are fine until I noticed 2 miners in the back of the group with the green lights flashing but the fan not spinning , Im like HUUUUHHHH So I pulled it apart and guess what was blown

2 Ferrite beads the ones Close together Not the ones that a far apart The ones that are Right next to each other sitting on the board like 2 ferrite twins, infact I saw another user on here claiming the same thing happening. I have a strong feeling that the cause for this was a bad power lead
/ Barrel ending, I now have thrown this in the bin.

I am sure the people who may give me advise will know what I am talking about,, luckily I have the same ferrite beads as I have ordered  these to repair the 1 x ferrite bead that I blew because I shorted out the red wire accidently.

Anyway I have now wasted 4 ferrite beads ... Basically the copper pads where these ferrite beads are meant to go are fukd, although they are fucked I was able to solder onto as I think there is still contact to the main board.. problem is when I did this and plugged the an on I instantly see sparkes and the ferrite bead goes RED hot I mean this all happens in 1 second and then I unplug it. Now I would like to ask the wizards in here, instead of throwing away 2 seeds as I feel I have 10 CHIPS that can mine but just need a way too, Maybe I can lower the frequency I dont know can I get some help here on a way I can salvage these 2 pods?

Visible issue 2 ferrite beads on each board blown, 2 boards & 2 ferrite beads = 4 ferrite beads Gone.... I do have spare ferrite beads but if there is a way to bypass these beads somehow I feel it wold be better, Even If I run these 2 seeds at 800Mhz  And 5v Fan Or something...

Please some advise would be great

Hello,

are you based in EU?

thanks

I am Based in OCeania - Australia - Sydney Smiley



check the continuity here and if it is shorted, take off the mosfet with hot air gun. make sure you take the pcb off from bottom heatsink and pad, otherwise it will not come off. i used 300 c with full air speed. took around 2 min and the mosfet comes off . after take this off check your continuity between 12v+ and gnd. you shouldn't have any short. replace the parts and put your FB back on , you will be good to go(unless there any other parts demaged!)

The top yellow arrow is the first pin on top which is number 4(gate) and bottom 1-4 pin is Drain i think. if you find a short between gate and drain in a N channel mosfet, it known to be faulty.
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
Hey guys I fixed my other miner with the blown Ferrite bead, This was easy to fix because I knew what the problem was, now all miners are fine until I noticed 2 miners in the back of the group with the green lights flashing but the fan not spinning , Im like HUUUUHHHH So I pulled it apart and guess what was blown

2 Ferrite beads the ones Close together Not the ones that a far apart The ones that are Right next to each other sitting on the board like 2 ferrite twins, infact I saw another user on here claiming the same thing happening. I have a strong feeling that the cause for this was a bad power lead
/ Barrel ending, I now have thrown this in the bin.

I am sure the people who may give me advise will know what I am talking about,, luckily I have the same ferrite beads as I have ordered  these to repair the 1 x ferrite bead that I blew because I shorted out the red wire accidently.

Anyway I have now wasted 4 ferrite beads ... Basically the copper pads where these ferrite beads are meant to go are fukd, although they are fucked I was able to solder onto as I think there is still contact to the main board.. problem is when I did this and plugged the an on I instantly see sparkes and the ferrite bead goes RED hot I mean this all happens in 1 second and then I unplug it. Now I would like to ask the wizards in here, instead of throwing away 2 seeds as I feel I have 10 CHIPS that can mine but just need a way too, Maybe I can lower the frequency I dont know can I get some help here on a way I can salvage these 2 pods?

Visible issue 2 ferrite beads on each board blown, 2 boards & 2 ferrite beads = 4 ferrite beads Gone.... I do have spare ferrite beads but if there is a way to bypass these beads somehow I feel it wold be better, Even If I run these 2 seeds at 800Mhz  And 5v Fan Or something...

Please some advise would be great

Hello,

are you based in EU?

thanks

I am Based in OCeania - Australia - Sydney Smiley
member
Activity: 71
Merit: 10
Hey guys I fixed my other miner with the blown Ferrite bead, This was easy to fix because I knew what the problem was, now all miners are fine until I noticed 2 miners in the back of the group with the green lights flashing but the fan not spinning , Im like HUUUUHHHH So I pulled it apart and guess what was blown

2 Ferrite beads the ones Close together Not the ones that a far apart The ones that are Right next to each other sitting on the board like 2 ferrite twins, infact I saw another user on here claiming the same thing happening. I have a strong feeling that the cause for this was a bad power lead
/ Barrel ending, I now have thrown this in the bin.

I am sure the people who may give me advise will know what I am talking about,, luckily I have the same ferrite beads as I have ordered  these to repair the 1 x ferrite bead that I blew because I shorted out the red wire accidently.

Anyway I have now wasted 4 ferrite beads ... Basically the copper pads where these ferrite beads are meant to go are fukd, although they are fucked I was able to solder onto as I think there is still contact to the main board.. problem is when I did this and plugged the an on I instantly see sparkes and the ferrite bead goes RED hot I mean this all happens in 1 second and then I unplug it. Now I would like to ask the wizards in here, instead of throwing away 2 seeds as I feel I have 10 CHIPS that can mine but just need a way too, Maybe I can lower the frequency I dont know can I get some help here on a way I can salvage these 2 pods?

Visible issue 2 ferrite beads on each board blown, 2 boards & 2 ferrite beads = 4 ferrite beads Gone.... I do have spare ferrite beads but if there is a way to bypass these beads somehow I feel it wold be better, Even If I run these 2 seeds at 800Mhz  And 5v Fan Or something...

Please some advise would be great

Hello,

are you based in EU? if you check with a volt-meter you will see there is a short between 12v vcc and ground. that's why your 2 ferret bead get hot in 12v and blown instantly after plug in. i am collecting all the chip for a project which will never might succeed , if you based in EU i can buy those 2 blown gs from you if you want?

PM me plz

thanks
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
 CALLING OUT TO SANDOR I must say CPUminer is MUCH MUCHHHHHHHHH better looking then it was before, before you touched it, it was just one big pile of >>>>>>>>>>>>> v;slfigjs;flgjdsb;jsdn;adfjg;adghs'dfigjd'fgicmg


You did an AWESOME job buddy at least your miner is much more stable than CGminer, I actually thought i worked out the problem with cgminer but sadly I didn't, it just crashes for no reason EVEN when you have enough power and a good powered usb hub, simply put it   .. .. cgminer is wrecked!! and no one wants to fix it.... Im glad someone has made something else stable and made it look similar to cgminer...

There is 1 issue with CPUminer and it is the local hashrate accuracy... ONLY local side.

One thing about Cgminer is that it is pretty accurate with the local hasrates all the way back from the GPU Tweaking and tuning days, Now in regards to your CPU miner it is showing REALLY weird local hashrates, From 76KH all the way to 900KH , ALl my miners are VMod3 @ 1200mhs they all should show 510KH locally and poolside... CPUminer seems to get more stable as time goes by but still not locally accurate. For Eg; Now the Hashrate ranges from 99KH to 590KH and its been like this for awhile .

Interestingly it seems Poolside is more accurate than local side lol. Tongue    This is very strange as it should be the other way around hehe! Anyway I SHould be getting a total hashrate of Around 20Mhz locally and poolside should be fluctuating from 19-21MH but will average out to 20mhz.... At the moment the poolside is correct and fine, but with CPUminer I am only showing 15-16-17-18 Locally At the moment, and after 15 minutes it seems to have stabilised at around 17Mhz seems like it takes awhile to warm up which shouldn't be the case in regards to these Gridseeds It should only take 5 minutes to locally warm up offcourse poolside will take longer.

 I think I know the problem, I will explain below>>VVV , By the way the reason I don't believe the total hashrate should be fluctuating that much locally is because the Gridseeds are actually pretty stable and they should reach to a max point and stay there, Have you seen how Cgminer acts? These Seeds will reach to a point of KH and stay there, they do not thermal throttle or anything, infact they are much more steady than GPUs ..

ok

so,,,,

The problem is this >>> The way you have CPUminer calculating the Local hashrate  is by how many shares are accepted, this is something the pool does and will never be accurate, Cgminer does not do this, CGMINER has the WU Column and this shows the work Load for each miner and yes this will display according to how many shares are accepted, but in -regards to local hashrate this is different and should not be calculated in this way. Maybe you can pull this certain function out of Cgminer and place it in cpuminer? @ 1200mhs These Miners should show 510.2KH-510.6KH If you do this this will mean CPUminer is now KING and no one will ever need to look anywhere else for true local hashrate.


This is the only issue I can see here , I don't care about the WU:// Cgminer also shows this but I dont know how it works there so it doesn't really matter

1 LAst thing?
MANNNN Your CPUminer is 10000000000000 times more stable.. AWESOME work!!! AWESOME!!!!!!!! and you do not have to plug each Gridseed

PS: I also PMed you

EDIT: I did some calculations and I realised I should be getting more out of these gridseeds, how can I tell if hashrate is locally correct? CGminer without a doubt showed 510KH, now I am thinking if this was correct or not? CPUminer does not show this, cpuminer shows rates based on Accepted, so seems to be matching the pool, the thing is if @ 1200mhz the grids get 510KH shouldnt this be the same for 99% of all gridseeds with the 49.9k Vmod3? Or maybe I am not giving them long enough, I am giving them 45min and then judging them, Should I be giving them atleast 10-24 hrs of continous mining before checking the hashrate?
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
Hey guys I fixed my other miner with the blown Ferrite bead, This was easy to fix because I knew what the problem was, now all miners are fine until I noticed 2 miners in the back of the group with the green lights flashing but the fan not spinning , Im like HUUUUHHHH So I pulled it apart and guess what was blown

2 Ferrite beads the ones Close together Not the ones that a far apart The ones that are Right next to each other sitting on the board like 2 ferrite twins, infact I saw another user on here claiming the same thing happening. I have a strong feeling that the cause for this was a bad power lead
/ Barrel ending, I now have thrown this in the bin.

I am sure the people who may give me advise will know what I am talking about,, luckily I have the same ferrite beads as I have ordered  these to repair the 1 x ferrite bead that I blew because I shorted out the red wire accidently.

Anyway I have now wasted 4 ferrite beads ... Basically the copper pads where these ferrite beads are meant to go are fukd, although they are fucked I was able to solder onto as I think there is still contact to the main board.. problem is when I did this and plugged the an on I instantly see sparkes and the ferrite bead goes RED hot I mean this all happens in 1 second and then I unplug it. Now I would like to ask the wizards in here, instead of throwing away 2 seeds as I feel I have 10 CHIPS that can mine but just need a way too, Maybe I can lower the frequency I dont know can I get some help here on a way I can salvage these 2 pods?

Visible issue 2 ferrite beads on each board blown, 2 boards & 2 ferrite beads = 4 ferrite beads Gone.... I do have spare ferrite beads but if there is a way to bypass these beads somehow I feel it wold be better, Even If I run these 2 seeds at 800Mhz  And 5v Fan Or something...

Please some advise would be great
sr. member
Activity: 252
Merit: 254
First looks like:

*SNIP*

Hopefully you or one of the experts here know what they are because I don't.

thanks for the reply they look like IC chips but I cant seem to find where to buy them anywhere.

U29 is a "dual unbuffered inverter"  http://www.nxp.com/products/logic/buffers_inverters_drivers/series/74HC2GU04.html - see the ordering tab on that same page

U9 is a low dropout regulater from UPI Semiconductor.  http://www.upi-semi.com/product/ProductInfo.aspx?ProductID=156  I couldn't find anyplace to directly order this one in the quick couple minutes I searched it, but if you can't find it, chances are TI or Fairchild or STI have something that will match the specs nearly exactly.

How did they break?

they all have the 49.9k mod and they stopped accepting shares so i resoldered the 49.9k resistor thinking that i had a bad connection or something and when i plugged it in same thing it wasnt working so i took a closer look it looks like the chips got hot then started to break apart? not really sure but 3 of my gridseeds are down because of this. one of them the 1500uf 2.5v capacitor the black plastic base is melted.

Well...they both have to do with regulating the voltage...and the UP0111 chip "was designed to be able to continuously deliver a stable 600mA"... If the resistor mod is causing a higher current draw, that could stress it to the point of failure.   It looks like the first chip is easier to get (Mouser supposedly has them) than the UP0111.  I did a quick search on TI and couldn't find anything that would deliver the 600mA specification on the UPI chip.  I'll see if I can find a match from another manufacturer (or maybe someone else can beat me to it).  The highest available I found from TI was a 400mA delivery...so maybe I missed something there.  The rest of the specs matched, just not the mA rating.
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First looks like:

Code:
LISTING: 1 element(s)

       < COMPONENT INSTANCE >

  Reference Designator: U29
  Package Symbol:       SOT23-6

  Component Class:      IC
  Device Type:          PCF8574_P_0_SOT23-6_74HC2GU04
    Value:              74HC2GU04

  Placement Status:     PLACED
    origin-xy:         (1467.57 867.87)
    rotation:           0.000  degrees
    not_mirrored

  Function(s):
    Designator: F8
    Type:       PCF8574_P_0_SOT23-6_74HC2GU04
    Pin(s):     1, 6, 3, 4, 2...

  Properties attached to component definition
    VALUE             = 74HC2GU04

  Pin IO Information:
    Pin     Type      SigNoise Model          Net
    ---     ----      --------------          ---
    1       UNSPEC                            CLK
    2       UNSPEC                            DGND
    3       UNSPEC                            CLK
    4       UNSPEC                            N31664886
    5       UNSPEC                            OVDD33
    6       UNSPEC                            N31664859


Second looks like:

Code:
LISTING: 1 element(s)

       < COMPONENT INSTANCE >

  Reference Designator: U9
  Package Symbol:       SOT23_5

  Component Class:      IC
  Device Type:          SN74AHCT1G125_0_SOT23_5_UP0111
    Value:              UP0111

  Placement Status:     PLACED
    origin-xy:         (296.48 1497.43)
    rotation:           90.000  degrees
    not_mirrored

  Function(s):
    Designator: F4
    Type:       SN74AHCT1G125_0_SOT23_5_UP0111
    Pin(s):     3, 4, 1, 5, 2

  Properties attached to component instance
    ROOM              = OCD_CRT

  Properties attached to component definition
    VALUE             = UP0111

  Pin IO Information:
    Pin     Type      SigNoise Model          Net
    ---     ----      --------------          ---
    1       UNSPEC                            OVDD33
    2       UNSPEC                            DGND
    3       UNSPEC                            OVDD33
    4       UNSPEC                            N31931394
    5       UNSPEC                            DVDD_PLL


Hopefully you or one of the experts here know what they are because I don't.

thanks for the reply they look like IC chips but I cant seem to find where to buy them anywhere.

U29 is a "dual unbuffered inverter"  http://www.nxp.com/products/logic/buffers_inverters_drivers/series/74HC2GU04.html - see the ordering tab on that same page

U9 is a low dropout regulater from UPI Semiconductor.  http://www.upi-semi.com/product/ProductInfo.aspx?ProductID=156  I couldn't find anyplace to directly order this one in the quick couple minutes I searched it, but if you can't find it, chances are TI or Fairchild or STI have something that will match the specs nearly exactly.

How did they break?

they all have the 49.9k mod and they stopped accepting shares so i resoldered the 49.9k resistor thinking that i had a bad connection or something and when i plugged it in same thing it wasnt working so i took a closer look it looks like the chips got hot then started to break apart? not really sure but 3 of my gridseeds are down because of this. one of them the 1500uf 2.5v capacitor the black plastic base is melted.
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