GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair - page 9.

ZiG

sr. member

Activity: 406

Merit: 250

Quote from: rc0cl on June 29, 2014, 10:28:23 PM

J4bberwock,

Can you please confirm if the REGULATED voltage rails on the blades are just 5V and 3.3V ONLY?

I have not seen any other mentioned voltages; other than 5V and 3.3V.

What I like to do is to jumper in an ATX PSU and be done with all that volt-modding.

1. remove any on-board regulation, i.e. remove any in-series components.

2. Solder in screw-in terminals after the components

Do you think that would work?

ASIC chips voltage is 1.2V at stock...60-80A ...

Voltmod is rising it to 1.35 to 1.75V ...

Check the schematics first...then re-evaluate your "idea(s)"... Grin

ZiG

rc0cl

newbie

Activity: 20

Merit: 0

J4bberwock,

Can you please confirm if the REGULATED voltage rails on the blades are just 5V and 3.3V ONLY?

I have not seen any other mentioned voltages; other than 5V and 3.3V.

What I like to do is to jumper in an ATX PSU and be done with all that volt-modding.

1. remove any on-board regulation, i.e. remove any in-series components.

2. Solder in screw-in terminals after the components

Do you think that would work?

J4bberwock

hero member

Activity: 840

Merit: 1000

Quote from: pws328 on June 27, 2014, 09:56:58 AM

Quote from: J4bberwock on June 27, 2014, 04:58:23 AM

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.

Thanks for the suggestion! Pics of that part and the test info would be really helpful.

Unfortunately pressing the button didn't kickstart the blade into action, so I'm guessing it's a component issue. Undecided

here is the picture with what you should measure.

You simply need to plug the USB, nothing else

you can use any ground point on the board. the easier one to use is this one. square pad in the connector.

J4bberwock

hero member

Activity: 840

Merit: 1000

Quote from: styson on June 29, 2014, 05:57:46 AM

My one blade died, thought it was the upper fet which I replaced, but now when I connect the power supply I hear a buzzing noise from the power connector and the power supply goes off, have checked the boards for shorts and nothing I can spot, any idea's ?

maybe the 16v 220uf Capacitor.
I suppose you also replaced the ferrites/0 ohm resistors that burned with the upper gate mosfet.
There are very few components between the power plug and the mosfets, so they are easy to track:
Plug -> ferrites -> capacitors -> mosfets

You can check the 8 chips schematics on github for some help. It's almost the same as what we have on the blade.

I posted a few test points you can check in this thread. It can help finding the origin of the trouble.

styson

newbie

Activity: 20

Merit: 0

My one blade died, thought it was the upper fet which I replaced, but now when I connect the power supply I hear a buzzing noise from the power connector and the power supply goes off, have checked the boards for shorts and nothing I can spot, any idea's ?

pws328

member

Activity: 88

Merit: 10

Quote from: powersup on June 27, 2014, 09:10:09 PM

Quote from: pws328 on June 27, 2014, 09:56:58 AM

Quote from: J4bberwock on June 27, 2014, 04:58:23 AM

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.

Thanks for the suggestion! Pics of that part and the test info would be really helpful.

Unfortunately pressing the button didn't kickstart the blade into action, so I'm guessing it's a component issue. Undecided

Just a warning. pressing the the reset button can corrupt the ARM firmware as i learnt first hand with a couple of PODs.

Ah good to know. Good thing I didn't try it on the working blade!

powersup

sr. member

Activity: 406

Merit: 250

Quote from: pws328 on June 27, 2014, 09:56:58 AM

Quote from: J4bberwock on June 27, 2014, 04:58:23 AM

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.

Thanks for the suggestion! Pics of that part and the test info would be really helpful.

Unfortunately pressing the button didn't kickstart the blade into action, so I'm guessing it's a component issue. Undecided

Just a warning. pressing the the reset button can corrupt the ARM firmware as i learnt first hand with a couple of PODs.

wolfey2014

sr. member

Activity: 378

Merit: 250

AAhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh HAHHHHHHHHHHHHH! Grin

pws328

member

Activity: 88

Merit: 10

Quote from: J4bberwock on June 27, 2014, 04:58:23 AM

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.

Thanks for the suggestion! Pics of that part and the test info would be really helpful.

Unfortunately pressing the button didn't kickstart the blade into action, so I'm guessing it's a component issue. Undecided

gades

sr. member

Activity: 432

Merit: 254

Quote from: ZiG on June 27, 2014, 12:18:14 AM

Quote from: gades on June 26, 2014, 11:09:40 PM

On-board microcontroller burned STM32F103RCT6, and behind him and a voltage 5V to 3.3V. After dismantling stabilizer defined fault on the board.

1. Place stabilizer;
2. Search faults using thermal paper;

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/gridseed-g-blade-firmware-for-arm-stm32f103rct6-664905

Could you elaborate...?

BTW, thermal paper is a great idea... Wink

ZiG

I burned down converter 8805 (5v to 3,3 v) due to short circuit in the chip ARM. Short circuit determined using a cash receipt (thermal paper) filing with 3,3 V power supply (necessary to limit current). To do this, use two batteries 1,5 V and pressing the paper can be found a short circuit. Today rewire the chip and write firmware.

J4bberwock

hero member

Activity: 840

Merit: 1000

Quote from: racebyu on June 26, 2014, 11:03:16 PM

That might work, could be a reset if the blade gets locked up.
I remember the old ASIC blades also had a similar reset feature
if the unit became locked up during mining and power reset did
not work.

Quote from: pws328 on June 26, 2014, 03:16:31 PM

Quote from: Janezki on April 29, 2014, 01:16:41 AM

Just noticed that switch marked ASW100 - any info/idea/guess what's that for?

Hey guys, I'm hoping someone here can help me out with an issue I'm having with my blade. One of the boards isn't being recognized by my computer when I plug the USB cable in, but the other board is perfectly functional. I've tried pretty much everything I can think of to make sure it's not something I'm doing wrong, and it seems like the board is DOA.

I posted this questions in another section, and Wolfey2014 pointed me over here to see if anyone has had a similar issue. He also suggested I try hitting what may be a reset button, the one in the pic above. Did anyone ever try this with their blade, and if so, did it fix anything?

Thanks in advance, and if I get my blade working it seems like overclocking may be in my future! Grin

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.

ZiG

sr. member

Activity: 406

Merit: 250

Quote from: gades on June 26, 2014, 11:09:40 PM

On-board microcontroller burned STM32F103RCT6, and behind him and a voltage 5V to 3.3V. After dismantling stabilizer defined fault on the board.

1. Place stabilizer;
2. Search faults using thermal paper;

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/gridseed-g-blade-firmware-for-arm-stm32f103rct6-664905

Could you elaborate...?

BTW, thermal paper is a great idea... Wink

ZiG

gades

sr. member

Activity: 432

Merit: 254

On-board microcontroller burned STM32F103RCT6, and behind him and a voltage 5V to 3.3V. After dismantling stabilizer defined fault on the board.

1. Place stabilizer;
2. Search faults using thermal paper;

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/gridseed-g-blade-firmware-for-arm-stm32f103rct6-664905

racebyu

sr. member

Activity: 346

Merit: 260

That might work, could be a reset if the blade gets locked up.
I remember the old ASIC blades also had a similar reset feature
if the unit became locked up during mining and power reset did
not work.

Quote from: pws328 on June 26, 2014, 03:16:31 PM

Quote from: Janezki on April 29, 2014, 01:16:41 AM

Just noticed that switch marked ASW100 - any info/idea/guess what's that for?

Hey guys, I'm hoping someone here can help me out with an issue I'm having with my blade. One of the boards isn't being recognized by my computer when I plug the USB cable in, but the other board is perfectly functional. I've tried pretty much everything I can think of to make sure it's not something I'm doing wrong, and it seems like the board is DOA.

I posted this questions in another section, and Wolfey2014 pointed me over here to see if anyone has had a similar issue. He also suggested I try hitting what may be a reset button, the one in the pic above. Did anyone ever try this with their blade, and if so, did it fix anything?

Thanks in advance, and if I get my blade working it seems like overclocking may be in my future! Grin

pws328

member

Activity: 88

Merit: 10

Quote from: Janezki on April 29, 2014, 01:16:41 AM

Just noticed that switch marked ASW100 - any info/idea/guess what's that for?

Hey guys, I'm hoping someone here can help me out with an issue I'm having with my blade. One of the boards isn't being recognized by my computer when I plug the USB cable in, but the other board is perfectly functional. I've tried pretty much everything I can think of to make sure it's not something I'm doing wrong, and it seems like the board is DOA.

I posted this questions in another section, and Wolfey2014 pointed me over here to see if anyone has had a similar issue. He also suggested I try hitting what may be a reset button, the one in the pic above. Did anyone ever try this with their blade, and if so, did it fix anything?

Thanks in advance, and if I get my blade working it seems like overclocking may be in my future! Grin

J4bberwock

hero member

Activity: 840

Merit: 1000

Quote from: racebyu on June 22, 2014, 10:01:01 PM

Question: if you mod your blade and add a 33k+ resistor but keep your freq lower
in 825 or 838 range do you see a reduction or elimination of rejects/hardware errors?

You will be able to go higher clock without HW errors, but it shouldn't affect the rejects.

racebyu

sr. member

Activity: 346

Merit: 260

Question: if you mod your blade and add a 33k+ resistor but keep your freq lower
in 825 or 838 range do you see a reduction or elimination of rejects/hardware errors?

J4bberwock

hero member

Activity: 840

Merit: 1000

Quote from: wolfey2014 on June 21, 2014, 05:11:22 PM

Quote from: kaltar on June 21, 2014, 05:02:31 PM

i measured the resistor i got from the store and they gave me the wrong ones, it was 47.7k
what do you think it did tot my board. .?

OH ---- MY ---- GOD!!!!

I can't believe you even touched the PCB!
If you don't even know how to read the value of a resistor........ Huh

You probably toasted it!

Please people, to keep from giving we professionals out here a heart attack, spend the extra money to pay a pro' to do the work needed instead of risking losing everything you've invested in, possibly for nothing!
At least find a skilled volunteer!
You can always ask your local TV or PC etc. repair shop to do it for you.
Geesh! OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG TIMES 10000!!!
Good luck!

Hopefully, I do expect that the MOSFETs will have failed and nothing else.
worst thing would be the up1509 since there is no pin to pin compatible replacement and I can't source the original chip.

wolfey2014

sr. member

Activity: 378

Merit: 250

Quote from: kaltar on June 21, 2014, 05:02:31 PM

i measured the resistor i got from the store and they gave me the wrong ones, it was 47.7k
what do you think it did tot my board. .?

OH ---- MY ---- GOD!!!!

I can't believe you even touched the PCB!
If you don't even know how to read the value of a resistor........ Huh

You probably toasted it!

Please people, to keep from giving we professionals out here a heart attack, spend the extra money to pay a pro' to do the work needed instead of risking losing everything you've invested in, possibly for nothing!
At least find a skilled volunteer!
You can always ask your local TV or PC etc. repair shop to do it for you.
Geesh! OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG TIMES 10000!!!
Good luck!

kaltar

sr. member

Activity: 805

Merit: 250

i measured the resistor i got from the store and they gave me the wrong ones, it was 47.7k
what do you think it did tot my board. .?

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