If I'm thinking right, these Avalons have separate 12V rails per board so if necessary you can run them off two PSUs, probably want at least 600-650W rated each. But a decent 650W PSU to run on 120V shouldn't be hard to find.
Yes that would be good.
Yes efficiency would be better off two different PSUs. If you can get your load on each PSU to around 50% that would be most efficient (maybe not on your wallet).
Graph below is for the PSU I plan on using:
If I want to get more efficiency I could add another PSU and hit right at the 50% mark or just run on 1 and still be fine. Thats why I chose the PSU i mentioned earlier. Of course you guys with 240V can just laugh and enjoy you're superior server PSU efficiency.
You guys with good power supplies would know. What power factor does a Kill-A-Watt give for a good supply? Personally I've always gone with cheap LED supplies then added a heat sink to the bridge rectifier, changed out the single turn trim pot for a 20 turn, improved the thermal paste on the power transistors then replacing the fans when they get noisy. Also I add 3½ LEDs measuring the voltage at the PCIE connector. With a C1 I use four 360 watt 12v LED supplies, one on each blade and a fifth to power the radiator fans and pump. While I was considering the buy of an Avalon6 I was considering buying four new 5v or 6v 360 watt power supplies for under $30 each, putting a digital readout on each and again at one of the two PCIE connectors on each blade, putting two in series for each blade. Putting 12v supplies in parallel burns them up. So, with two of these improved cheap LED 12v supplies on an S3+ right here that I have a Kill-A-Watt monitoring, I get 120.2VAC, 0.70 power factor, 59.9~/s, 554VA, 388 watts, 4.62 amps. So, I figure the losses using cheap supplies would show up in the power factor figure and wattage. Can someone tell me how this compares with quality supplies? Thanks.
What I'm powering with these really doesn't matter. The 12vdc would appear as a resistive load so power factor doesn't apply. I really can't get a good reading on the DC current. I considered buying shunts but then the cost...