Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Blade Setup - page 52. (Read 580775 times)

Thank you for that video! That's excellent.

Quick video on setting up voltages and verifying them:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4PP9XnNKnA

Had a lot of trouble originally, so once i figured it out i made a video of it for others.

um.. providing your pool supports getwork, which almost none do, otherwise you need to run a stratum proxy server. I believe the how to is in this thread.

Blades have been, and are currently the most barebone miner there is. You need to enter your pool IPs, user and pass into the online console.

Then why didn't YOU say "I don't know for sure, but I wouldn't advise it." The fails are painful.

Very helpful for the hardware side of getting these blades up and mining. I'm sure you've save me and hundreds of others a lot time, effort and money.

I've got my hardware all wired up and working. but I am still clueless how to get these things connected to a pool. I've been searching all day for some step-by-step, concise instructions for (an obviously mentally challenged) newbie miner??

 seems more like Fight Club. if it wasn't for you all on this site, I'd have never got the hardware set-up. not even 1 picture or sentence of instruction came with the blades. the (1 page) diagram online is a joke. are you telling me that even an experienced miner or programmer is going to deduce all the information needed to set a blade up from that one page??? let alone someone new to mining.

and, I know this is international dealing with different languages, but an online guide could be translated or something. even some Ikea type hieroglyphics would be better than nothing. if it's that much of a secret, who's palm needs greasing or ass needs to be kissed to be sponsored, hazed, taught the secret handshake and finely gain admittance to the inner circle of knowledge? I'm at a loss. this is my 3rd day
with the blades in-hand. the power and IP connection were fairly easy with this thread........now we (some? at least me!) need the rest!!
    

thanks
LongHairBri

Which raises the question, Mr. Master of (BS) Engineering:  what's the part number of the DC/DC regulator?  A proper engineer would have that answer, if you don't and you don't absolutely know, say: "I don't know for sure, but I wouldn't advise it."  How hard would that be?   Stop deflecting, what's the P/N of the regulator?  Either you aren't telling us because you don't know, or because you're wrong.

Edit: It *is* a theoretical question.  Your ignorance regarding this is astounding.  Quit pulling the engineer card if you're not going to act like one.

Out of curiosity, does anyone have photos of the new USB Blades ? Have they shipped out to customers yet ?

+1


+1


If my car had wings, it could attempt to fly. It doesn't, so it can't. We're not talking about theoreticals, we have blades. That guy was saying it was okay to another user to put 24V into his blade - NOT 'could an electronic device handle 24V'. He was risking someone elses hardware. Look at the original question that was asked:


Not a theoretical, can my blade take 24V? [answer no, other guy claiming yes *sigh*]

This guy is nuts....I'm not here to be confrontational. Just saying man IF the regulator supports 10-24 or some other arbitrary range you CAN input that voltage. End of story. And if you do have a masters then you should know this...

If I had a blade I would have done so already.  If someone *is* going to try it, first check the P/N of the regulator to find its supply range.  If the range includes the higher voltage, check the datasheet to verify the required trimming resistance and/or back off the trimpot and slowly start increasing the supply so you don't inadvertently output >1.2Vdc.

I both agree and disagree.  That's why I asked for the part number of the DC/DC regulator, because that will dispel most "opinion" from the conversation.  That's all I asked for.

Applying 24VDC to a regulator expecting 12VDC is never a good idea.  The purpose behind a regulator is to produce a consistant output even with minor variations in the input.  This generally means you can work with 10-14VDC and see no ill effects, but expecting it to reliably work when you double the voltage is not exactly smart.

Look, this back and forth is just stupid. When people argue in a forum no one wins. Somebody just do it and post their results. If you think you can put a higher voltage in, then do it an prove it. If you don't think it will work, or you don't want to risk destroying your Blade, then don't do it.

Just quit the senseless arguing over opinions.

You quoted the wrong person Einstein.  Again: prove it.

LOL. Yes we are aware of V=IR and P=IV, thanks for that nursery level electronics. The debate is whether you can feed in 24V into a 12V blade without blowing it up - which you can't.

See below.

Like hell you have a masters in Engineering from MIT if you don't know simple concepts of DC/DC regulation.  Right up there with that thread where you're going off about putting tape over the holes of the Avalon to increase cooling and decrease noise.  Get a grip.  You're a terrible engineer and have obviously learned nothing about the ethics you're supposed to have.  You should not be commenting on things in the capacity of an engineer when you're not trained in said topics, which you're very apparently not.

Edit:  Almost everyone that I know that went on to do a masters did it because their grades and personality were such shit they couldn't land a job.  Sounds like you're one of those.



So tell us again about a question that was never asked?  

Wait what? You just answered a question that was never asked, and is totally irrelevant to the issue in hand. I raise you a fucking masters in engineering if you want to play that game...

Technically dropt is correct. The blade has something called a voltage regulator (DC-DC). This device takes the input voltage and provides the correct output voltage. It has a certain efficiency as there will be a loss of current for providing a lower voltage than recommended and if the voltage is higher than recommended it must dissipate this extra wattage as heat. Use Ohms law for a guesstimate of potential loss/gain.

Current(I)
Voltage(V)
Resistance(R)
Power(P)

I=V/R
P=V*I

-B.S. Science in Engineering Technology concentration Computer Engineering Technology

Can't we all get along?

Anyway, I'm going to run it in a different location and going to try a hub. For now for the setup, I'm running right off the router and able to see the config page. Progress!

Since I have many devices on my network, I thought it would be a good idea to go up higher in IP. I made my address 192.168.2.200 to access it and got a confirmation that it was going to restart. Only problem is that now I can't access with that IP. Does the address NEED to be 192.168.1.* on my network?

EDIT: Figured it out. Had to change my gateway in my router to access it. Will be changing that back.