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Topic: Help needed exhausting my rigs (Read 17490 times)

full member
Activity: 224
Merit: 100
June 12, 2013, 01:56:04 AM
#41
 Roll Eyes

A single 500 CFM fan is enough to replace the entire volume of a 5 cubic foot case 100 times per minute. A pair of them, 200 times per minute... Are you drunk posting, or are you naturally this bad at math?
sr. member
Activity: 280
Merit: 250
June 10, 2013, 02:33:31 PM
#40
10" or bigger duct fan is the way to go. Something like in this picture will be enough for a room with +5kW of heat. Add a thyristor controller to find optimal speed and noise levels.

member
Activity: 92
Merit: 10
June 10, 2013, 08:00:26 AM
#39
Put a window mounted AC unit in that window and turn down your central AC a bit to compensate.
hero member
Activity: 711
Merit: 500
June 09, 2013, 05:25:39 PM
#37
i've basically done this, works pretty well, i can help ya if you have any questions

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/--7216
member
Activity: 98
Merit: 10
June 09, 2013, 08:49:45 AM
#36
Nice job on the setup, looks good.

I agree on the can fan though, get a good fan.  One 10" or 12" can fan will do the job significantly better than any amount of those dryer duct booster fans.  And grab a speed controller.

http://www.amazon.com/home-improvement/dp/B000HQAVNI
full member
Activity: 137
Merit: 100
May 17, 2013, 03:58:05 PM
#35
you could also add a small radiator/intercooler to your window inlet and hook it up to a self made cooling tower that vents outside so it doesn't raise humidity. wouldn't need much power at all, just a small water pump and another fan. Get some PVC and a misting shower head. Just add water.

sr. member
Activity: 391
Merit: 250
May 16, 2013, 10:59:39 PM
#34
If you need a fan, get one of these:

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/fans/blower/portable-ventilation-fan-8-inch-with-16-feet-flexible-ducting

Very cheap without the piping... You're looking at about $130 for 2500 CFM and 400w power draw.
sr. member
Activity: 399
Merit: 250
May 16, 2013, 08:07:03 PM
#33
Please tell me that is your garage/extension and not your house.......
newbie
Activity: 29
Merit: 0
May 16, 2013, 10:33:33 AM
#32
The fans I linked are 500 CFM per fan...
Got a Can-Fan RS6HO for $65 shipped. www.ebay.com/itm/171037352963
newbie
Activity: 29
Merit: 0
May 14, 2013, 12:44:47 PM
#31
Those fans arn't really made to do that job, though depending on your container size, a few of them WILL get it done nicely. Just 1 is testing it IMO. What you really want is a centrifugal fan; 300+CFM, and made to overcome static pressure; loud and overkill mostly. The most well respect brand for quietness is Can-Fan.

But only 8GPUs you should be fine without that. Keep your gpu box as small as you can, another duct booster and you should be fine.

The fans I linked are 500 CFM per fan...
I realize that.  But the cost is effecting the profits.
This fan (70W 334CFM) for $146 http://www.amazon.com/Can-Fan-Inline-6-Inch-Minute/dp/B004C2IWIE
This fan (138W 392CFM) for $124.99 http://www.thehydrosource.com/can-fan-inline-fans.html

Really though at that point might as well look at http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php?p=panasonic_fv-40nlf1&product=111092&utm_source=amazon-pads&utm_medium=cpc for $200.

Anyways I'm going to try and get by with these $30 6" duct fans.  If that won't pull enough hot air out then I'll look to bigger setups but will consider price.  I'll know by the end of this week.
full member
Activity: 224
Merit: 100
May 14, 2013, 12:01:31 PM
#30
Those fans arn't really made to do that job, though depending on your container size, a few of them WILL get it done nicely. Just 1 is testing it IMO. What you really want is a centrifugal fan; 300+CFM, and made to overcome static pressure; loud and overkill mostly. The most well respect brand for quietness is Can-Fan.

But only 8GPUs you should be fine without that. Keep your gpu box as small as you can, another duct booster and you should be fine.

The fans I linked are 500 CFM per fan...
newbie
Activity: 29
Merit: 0
May 14, 2013, 09:15:55 AM
#29
That's a man's work!... (no offence if you are a woman)

Perfect, now all you need is a gate-T so you can manually route heat into the house in the winter!

Don't forget to varnish that wood! (Or wax it)

You may want another intake, if that doesn't have a booster-fan in there too. Always have a larger intake than exhaust, because the exhaust is compressed and the intake is negative. You want to reduce negative pressure so it does not pull air from other doorways or windows or wall-outlets.
I'm not going to bother to varnish.  I may paint it white to further seal.  I plan to take it out in a few months after summer.  I assume GPU mining won't be profitable by next summer.  If the furnace was nearby I would vent it through the house but its not.

Those fans arn't really made to do that job, though depending on your container size, a few of them WILL get it done nicely. Just 1 is testing it IMO. What you really want is a centrifugal fan; 300+CFM, and made to overcome static pressure; loud and overkill mostly. The most well respect brand for quietness is Can-Fan.

But only 8GPUs you should be fine without that. Keep your gpu box as small as you can, another duct booster and you should be fine.
I had seen some pics of setups but didn't know a brand for those high power fans.  I'm going to test the temps before enclosing and then will add more of those cheap 6" duct fans if necessary to get things to work.

I didn't finish my 8 card case so I'll get it done in a day or so.  Some family things took priority.
member
Activity: 65
Merit: 10
May 14, 2013, 05:33:19 AM
#28
Those fans arn't really made to do that job, though depending on your container size, a few of them WILL get it done nicely. Just 1 is testing it IMO. What you really want is a centrifugal fan; 300+CFM, and made to overcome static pressure; loud and overkill mostly. The most well respect brand for quietness is Can-Fan.

But only 8GPUs you should be fine without that. Keep your gpu box as small as you can, another duct booster and you should be fine.
hero member
Activity: 504
Merit: 500
May 13, 2013, 11:56:52 PM
#27
That's a man's work!... (no offence if you are a woman)

Perfect, now all you need is a gate-T so you can manually route heat into the house in the winter!

Don't forget to varnish that wood! (Or wax it)

You may want another intake, if that doesn't have a booster-fan in there too. Always have a larger intake than exhaust, because the exhaust is compressed and the intake is negative. You want to reduce negative pressure so it does not pull air from other doorways or windows or wall-outlets.
newbie
Activity: 29
Merit: 0
May 13, 2013, 06:52:17 PM
#26
http://s11.postimg.org/n613tb0ur/IMG_0675.jpg
http://s14.postimg.org/qiqoztq8x/IMG_0676.jpg
http://s18.postimg.org/wfve893fd/IMG_0678.jpg

Well I spent about $90 at Menards including the fan.  I'll hopefully finish the gpu rig enclosing 8 7950s tonight so I can hook it up to my window intake/exhaust.  More pics to come. Thanks for all your advice.
hero member
Activity: 504
Merit: 500
May 11, 2013, 10:16:16 PM
#25
Cheapest way is to buy something you will use later...

Drywall is cheap. Doors can be too, free on the side of the road.

Box it in at the window. You only have to exhaust the top-hot air, shoot it out far enough that it does not get sucked back in by the intake. (The intake being cold, can be a simple cloth-sheet sock. (Cheap bedspread which you duct-tape to form a long-ass filter-sock. Throw a rock inside and let it hang down.)

Even cardboard would work, if you want to go ghetto-diy.

Exhaust top, cool at bottom, fans directing it all up, or just mixing it. The heat will rise, the cool will fall. (Less if you are just mixing it.)

When you are done, just disassemble it. Someone will buy the unused sheet-rock dry-wall. I am sure you will find a new purpose for it. (Life-time supply of driveway and sidewalk chalk for the kids!)
zvs
legendary
Activity: 1680
Merit: 1000
https://web.archive.org/web/*/nogleg.com
May 11, 2013, 07:44:43 PM
#24
Yes I did see that thread but I can't really cut a hole in the ceiling.  I search the forums a lot and didn't find much HVAC info surprisingly.

I believe during the summer you want to exhaust outside and during the winter you want to exhaust to the cool attic.
do you only have that one window?

it's too small for how I vent room, but I guess you could buy some cheap window ac?

oh, nm, i read on

with two windows, why can't you just put a fan in one window, seal off the rest of that window, then vent out the second window?

Too sum things up. I'm going to need central AC on for my family to survive the summer. I'm trying to come up with a plan to efficiently exhaust the miners heat without wasting my AC and driving my electric bill even higher.

Wouldn't using a window fan in the non exhaust window be blowing hot outside air into the room?  I figured the best solution would to just simply exhaust the rig and hopefully my central AC keeps things cool but I know nothing about HVAC.

yeah, i live in texas, sometimes it's 110oF outside here, but i was still able to keep all my cards at or below 80oC all last summer (except for once when one of my 5970 fans busted and when i went in there it was at like 105oC, hashing away at 50mhash/100mhash, throttled etc)..  they only hit 80oC on the hottest days in the afternoon, most maxed out between 70-75.  you'll probably need to lower the voltage.   110oF is 43oC, which was a lot cooler than the cards were running at.   you'll want to make sure you have good PSUs or they'll either be incredibly inefficient or just die in high ambient temps

some of that hot air escapes into the house, but not a whole lot, assuming that the only entry point to the rest of the house is the door to the room (yeah, we can assume a few cracks in the ceiling etc).  you can buy (or make) something to seal off at least the bottom of a door.  some air will escape out the side unless you improvise on that, not that much though (if you have proper exhaust)

i only have one window, you have two, so just put the computers between the two windows, you dont need a fan on the second window.  use a piece of paper to determine how far to open it, likewise if your sealing job on the first window isnt so hot, you can use some paper or a napkin or something to make sure air isnt escaping from that window

i wouldn't get too complicated or spend a lot of money on same fancy setup, since it's unlikely you'll be running the GPUs for more than a few more months??  unless you're a believer in scrypt alt-currencies
hero member
Activity: 504
Merit: 500
May 11, 2013, 02:09:27 PM
#23
I have my entire computer top and back enclosed with 20 sheets of paper, taped up going to an exhaust pipe which goes to the window. Exhausts at least 80% of the heat, without any fans in the actual tubing.

I want to see a picture!

I want to see the picture after the fire department visits him... Tongue

Why not just gut a window-ac unit, and put the PC in there? Or, um... move the PC to the window, exhausting directly out there?  Huh
sr. member
Activity: 308
Merit: 250
May 11, 2013, 02:02:02 PM
#22
I have my entire computer top and back enclosed with 20 sheets of paper, taped up going to an exhaust pipe which goes to the window. Exhausts at least 80% of the heat, without any fans in the actual tubing.

I want to see a picture!
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