True, kinda forgot about it :S.
Can I solder the replacement part (Dead Bug Style) on the board? That way there is no need for a total PCB replacement.
For MLC1260-401ML, which Mouser has 50 in stock.
Depends how perfect you want it to be. The pad widths are about the same, 2.7 vs 2.8mm.
The pad lengths are slightly larger, 4.0 vs 3.1mm. But the spacing between is 4mm instead of 2.4mm.
So to make that work you would scratch part of the board area on the side away from the buck reg. so that it has more exposed contact area. It's 12mm instead of 8.6 so you would open up about 3mm. Do that and cut the stencil a bit and then you can paste as usual, but clean off any paste on the inner edge so it cannot contact the wrong terminal. Not even very messy really.
I ended up buying this replacement part. Has anyone else successfully done the swap? I am confused how I should properly install the new part. It has 2 leads, while the original 38L361C has 3 leads. Do I short the two on the left-hand side of the regulator?
EDIT: After looking over the data sheets for the 2 coil designs, I see that the 2 pins on the same side of the 38L361C is the coil, and the 3rd pin, opposite 1 and 2, is a ground. Is this correct? If it is, it would appear that the replacement coil should sit between the 2 contacts on the same side. In reference, I'm asking about parts L1 and L2