zipiju,
Have you ordered your PCB for testing yet? On the US side of the pond I've already submitted and gotten back full assembly production quotes from a board house I've used many times in the past. Once you get the testing done successfully I'll be ready to do a full reel run and show off some drop dead sexy Klondike16-55n pr0n :-D
H@shKraker
Topic: Klondike - 16 chip ASIC Open Source Board - Preliminary - page 11. (Read 435369 times)
Vl4dim1r,
Remember ...... don't drop it on your junk if it's on or is still HOT
H@shKraker
Remember ...... don't drop it on your junk if it's on or is still HOT
H@shKraker
Yes, that is common sense. But I'll keep a barrier of sorts on my lap while I'm reworking, just to be safe
Vl4dim1r,
Remember ...... don't drop it on your junk if it's on or is still HOT
H@shKraker
Remember ...... don't drop it on your junk if it's on or is still HOT
H@shKraker
Vl4dim1r,
This is the heat gun one should never drop on their junk after using it for any time -> http://www.lowes.com/pd_20960-97-0503040_0__?productId=1059297&Ntt=heat+gun&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dheat%2Bgun&facetInfo= ..... or QualitySeeds Ebay idea will also do the trick.
H@shKraker
This is the heat gun one should never drop on their junk after using it for any time -> http://www.lowes.com/pd_20960-97-0503040_0__?productId=1059297&Ntt=heat+gun&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dheat%2Bgun&facetInfo= ..... or QualitySeeds Ebay idea will also do the trick.
H@shKraker
My local lowe's didn't have that specific gun, just the single temp Wagner, But they had a Porter Cable heatgun, same price, same wattage, variable speed, variable temp. I guess I will let it heat up and point it at a thermometer so I can mark on the dial where the necessary temps are. I actually used it to defrost my windshield last night xD
Zipiju,
Does the Klondike driver need to be modified to accept the higher frequencies for example (--Klondike-options 1500)
just wondering about firmware and driver changes to support the new chips.
Does the Klondike driver need to be modified to accept the higher frequencies for example (--Klondike-options 1500)
just wondering about firmware and driver changes to support the new chips.
Yes, they both will have to be modified.
In the firmware, just a small mod to the config that is send to the chips.
In the driver, probably just the stuff around the clock frequency.
Zipiju,
Does the Klondike driver need to be modified to accept the higher frequencies for example (--Klondike-options 1500)
just wondering about firmware and driver changes to support the new chips.
Does the Klondike driver need to be modified to accept the higher frequencies for example (--Klondike-options 1500)
just wondering about firmware and driver changes to support the new chips.
Zipiju,
Has the PCB run been fully funded? If so how are things coming? Hope all is well with you.
H@shKraker
Has the PCB run been fully funded? If so how are things coming? Hope all is well with you.
H@shKraker
Yep, but I haven't ordered the PCBs yet (because the BTC price plummeted recently).
I'm going to order them in a couple of days (one or two) from iteadstudio.com. They should be here in 10 working days.
I still want the design tested before the december the 24th.
Other components from Mouser should be here this week (hopefully). They are already on their way.
Zipiju,
Has the PCB run been fully funded? If so how are things coming? Hope all is well with you.
H@shKraker
Has the PCB run been fully funded? If so how are things coming? Hope all is well with you.
H@shKraker
Vl4dim1r,
This is the heat gun one should never drop on their junk after using it for any time -> http://www.lowes.com/pd_20960-97-0503040_0__?productId=1059297&Ntt=heat+gun&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dheat%2Bgun&facetInfo= ..... or QualitySeeds Ebay idea will also do the trick.
H@shKraker
This is the heat gun one should never drop on their junk after using it for any time -> http://www.lowes.com/pd_20960-97-0503040_0__?productId=1059297&Ntt=heat+gun&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dheat%2Bgun&facetInfo= ..... or QualitySeeds Ebay idea will also do the trick.
H@shKraker
Vl4dim1r,
I once got krunk with an oscillator and a standard, bought from the hardware store heat gun. Be careful though, don't drop that heat gun on your junk after it's been on for any time
H@shKraker
I once got krunk with an oscillator and a standard, bought from the hardware store heat gun. Be careful though, don't drop that heat gun on your junk after it's been on for any time
H@shKraker
Unfortunately, I've checked all the local hardware stores and cant find a heat gun. Checked all the craft stores for embossing pens too, with no luck. Maybe they were just hiding somewhere...
EDIT: H@shKraker: Are you in the US? If so, was it one of the main chain hardware stores you found yours? What would I most likely find it with?
Vl4dim1r,
I once got krunk with an oscillator and a standard, bought from the hardware store heat gun. Be careful though, don't drop that heat gun on your junk after it's been on for any time
H@shKraker
I once got krunk with an oscillator and a standard, bought from the hardware store heat gun. Be careful though, don't drop that heat gun on your junk after it's been on for any time
H@shKraker
Unfortunately, I've checked all the local hardware stores and cant find a heat gun. Checked all the craft stores for embossing pens too, with no luck. Maybe they were just hiding somewhere...
EDIT: H@shKraker: Are you in the US? If so, was it one of the main chain hardware stores you found yours? What would I most likely find it with?
Vl4dim1r,
I once got krunk with an oscillator and a standard, bought from the hardware store heat gun. Be careful though, don't drop that heat gun on your junk after it's been on for any time
H@shKraker
I once got krunk with an oscillator and a standard, bought from the hardware store heat gun. Be careful though, don't drop that heat gun on your junk after it's been on for any time
H@shKraker
IrishFBall32,
You could TRY to hand solder the board (which would be a TRUE PITA) *OR* you could whip yourself up a DIY arduino reflow oven made from a converted convection toaster oven -> http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2011/07/22/reflow-oven-controller-shield/ . These things are da *B-O-M-B* for small batch SMT work and they're fairly inexpensive:-D
H@shKraker
You could TRY to hand solder the board (which would be a TRUE PITA) *OR* you could whip yourself up a DIY arduino reflow oven made from a converted convection toaster oven -> http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2011/07/22/reflow-oven-controller-shield/ . These things are da *B-O-M-B* for small batch SMT work and they're fairly inexpensive:-D
H@shKraker
If you have a Goodwill Outlet warehouse nearby, i recommend going there. I see low wattage toaster ovens all the time, but the day I went looking for my "reflow oven", I found a 1500W GE , retails about $250, for $3.
EDIT: Question, does anyone have a hot air reflow pen they're willing to sell? I'm having difficulty finding one for btc.
IrishFBall32,
You could TRY to hand solder the board (which would be a TRUE PITA) *OR* you could whip yourself up a DIY arduino reflow oven made from a converted convection toaster oven -> http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2011/07/22/reflow-oven-controller-shield/ . These things are da *B-O-M-B* for small batch SMT work and they're fairly inexpensive:-D
H@shKraker
You could TRY to hand solder the board (which would be a TRUE PITA) *OR* you could whip yourself up a DIY arduino reflow oven made from a converted convection toaster oven -> http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2011/07/22/reflow-oven-controller-shield/ . These things are da *B-O-M-B* for small batch SMT work and they're fairly inexpensive:-D
H@shKraker
Mine is away:
Not sure what I would do with a bare PCB - I'm skilled at hand soldering but have never tried SMT... I suppose I should learn (on a cheaper project).
I'm hoping once these 2nd gens test well I can put in an order to have them made like the liquidsynergy one I've acquired.
Quote
Status: 0/unconfirmed, broadcast through 6 nodes
Date: 2013-12-06 12:40
To: zipiju (Klondike) 1CKscJAxjdhbJjJPJ9AzL2dWTmB6oc49UE
Debit: -0.02 BTC
Transaction fee: -0.0001 BTC
Net amount: -0.0201 BTC
Transaction ID: 2a4d3bbf0c300ea019ca60b9b7537d189414f735ffb860f065242c9c61546908
Date: 2013-12-06 12:40
To: zipiju (Klondike) 1CKscJAxjdhbJjJPJ9AzL2dWTmB6oc49UE
Debit: -0.02 BTC
Transaction fee: -0.0001 BTC
Net amount: -0.0201 BTC
Transaction ID: 2a4d3bbf0c300ea019ca60b9b7537d189414f735ffb860f065242c9c61546908
Not sure what I would do with a bare PCB - I'm skilled at hand soldering but have never tried SMT... I suppose I should learn (on a cheaper project).
I'm hoping once these 2nd gens test well I can put in an order to have them made like the liquidsynergy one I've acquired.
Vl4dim1r,
http://projectklondike.org/big-troubleshoot should provide you TONS of GREAT troubleshooting ideas. Cheers.
H@shKraker
http://projectklondike.org/big-troubleshoot should provide you TONS of GREAT troubleshooting ideas. Cheers.
H@shKraker
Thank you very much for that. I've been to the project klondike site before, I guess I missed the troubleshooting section at the time. I'm going to look around at work tonight and see if I can find an o-scope.
EDIT: Nevermind on that oscilloscope, apparently I'm not "qualified" to operate it because I am just a lowly wrench turner. But I found a Tektronix 2213 60MHz locally for $100!
EDIT2: so after some poking around with a multimeter following the big troubleshoot guide, I'm getting about 10.5v from the power supply through the second can capacitor, and nothing from the 1.2v or 3.3v on either bank.
Vl4dim1r,
http://projectklondike.org/big-troubleshoot should provide you TONS of GREAT troubleshooting ideas. Cheers.
H@shKraker
http://projectklondike.org/big-troubleshoot should provide you TONS of GREAT troubleshooting ideas. Cheers.
H@shKraker
This is a bit off topic from where this thread is going, but I need a little help if anyone can provide it. I have 2 k16s, fully assembled and visually everything checks out, but neither one is recognized when the USB is plugged in. No blinking LEDs, just buzzing caps.
If anyone would mind helping me out, I'd have no problem tipping what I can or test these via your pool/address of choice.
If anyone would mind helping me out, I'd have no problem tipping what I can or test these via your pool/address of choice.
it sounds like you might have a short somewhere in the power supply output. Did you measure voltages with a multimeter? Do you have an oscilloscope?
I tried 2 different power supplies, one that I set up just for the k16s, and the other supplying my BE blades. Both are putting out a solid 12v. As for probing the board itself, I'm not sure where on the board is good to test with. Unfortunately, I do not have an o-scope. I've always heard that buzzing caps were normal, although they may have been shorted now that I think about it. It's possible that my heatsink shorted the PCI-e power pins. I noticed there wasn't enough of a gap to feel comfortable with, after I tested them. You think it might just be the caps?
Edit: Also, do we have an IRC channel?
This is a bit off topic from where this thread is going, but I need a little help if anyone can provide it. I have 2 k16s, fully assembled and visually everything checks out, but neither one is recognized when the USB is plugged in. No blinking LEDs, just buzzing caps.
If anyone would mind helping me out, I'd have no problem tipping what I can or test these via your pool/address of choice.
If anyone would mind helping me out, I'd have no problem tipping what I can or test these via your pool/address of choice.
it sounds like you might have a short somewhere in the power supply output. Did you measure voltages with a multimeter? Do you have an oscilloscope?
Just was thinking are u using A3256Q48 which are 300 MH/s or the A3255Q48 1 GH/s
Me? I'm using A3256Q48, aka Gen1.
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