What is the temperature of the K16 without the fan/heatsink? I'd like to compare it to the predictions from my model. My heatsink/fin model seems fairly accurate.
I haven't tested without heatsink and fan. When I have a full K16 soon I may do a brief test and see how quickly it gets too hot, but I won't run it for long. 
Topic: Klondike - 16 chip ASIC Open Source Board - Preliminary - page 50. (Read 435369 times)
What is the temperature of the K16 without the fan/heatsink? I'd like to compare it to the predictions from my model. My heatsink/fin model seems fairly accurate.
163C ?!?
board don't have temp sensor.we modified k16 firmware for testing, temperature is random value.
about cgminer...
klondike version work good on linux but build for win crash after start.
if we make working k1 first, we send you few for testing...
Of course that will mean we'll start bashing away at the code to sort it out if we get them
(I don't have any such hardware at all so can't do anything concrete until then of course)
Looking at making K16 and K1 kits - one problem I have is with duty/tax on importing into Thailand only to be re-exported again. Between tax and shipping it adds a hefty cost penalty.
It occurred to me that there may be a US-based potential partner out there who wants to make a fee for part splitting ("kitting") and shipping. That is, you would receive bulk reels of parts, count them (actually measure them against printed guides), cut tape, and place them into bins, and then dump the bins into ziploc bags. Then ship them to customers within USA. Such an arrangement would result in quicker delivery and lower final cost for DIY customers. I don't know what the profit on that would be - not huge, but something to make it worth some time cutting, packing and going to the post office. It avoids a whole lotta duty/intl shipping issues.
Serious interested persons should PM me. It's probably not going to be a huge qty.
It occurred to me that there may be a US-based potential partner out there who wants to make a fee for part splitting ("kitting") and shipping. That is, you would receive bulk reels of parts, count them (actually measure them against printed guides), cut tape, and place them into bins, and then dump the bins into ziploc bags. Then ship them to customers within USA. Such an arrangement would result in quicker delivery and lower final cost for DIY customers. I don't know what the profit on that would be - not huge, but something to make it worth some time cutting, packing and going to the post office. It avoids a whole lotta duty/intl shipping issues.
Serious interested persons should PM me. It's probably not going to be a huge qty.
Most people in the world don't live in the US. Thailand is probably closer to the heart of the action than the US would be.
Only 4 orders from Australia and Japan, are actually closer to me. A few more are from UK and Europe. The rest are from USA.
This Minnesota nerd is in.
Looking at making K16 and K1 kits - one problem I have is with duty/tax on importing into Thailand only to be re-exported again. Between tax and shipping it adds a hefty cost penalty.
It occurred to me that there may be a US-based potential partner out there who wants to make a fee for part splitting ("kitting") and shipping. That is, you would receive bulk reels of parts, count them (actually measure them against printed guides), cut tape, and place them into bins, and then dump the bins into ziploc bags. Then ship them to customers within USA. Such an arrangement would result in quicker delivery and lower final cost for DIY customers. I don't know what the profit on that would be - not huge, but something to make it worth some time cutting, packing and going to the post office. It avoids a whole lotta duty/intl shipping issues.
Serious interested persons should PM me. It's probably not going to be a huge qty.
It occurred to me that there may be a US-based potential partner out there who wants to make a fee for part splitting ("kitting") and shipping. That is, you would receive bulk reels of parts, count them (actually measure them against printed guides), cut tape, and place them into bins, and then dump the bins into ziploc bags. Then ship them to customers within USA. Such an arrangement would result in quicker delivery and lower final cost for DIY customers. I don't know what the profit on that would be - not huge, but something to make it worth some time cutting, packing and going to the post office. It avoids a whole lotta duty/intl shipping issues.
Serious interested persons should PM me. It's probably not going to be a huge qty.
Most people in the world don't live in the US. Thailand is probably closer to the heart of the action than the US would be.
Only 4 orders from Australia and Japan, are actually closer to me. A few more are from UK and Europe. The rest are from USA.
Looking at making K16 and K1 kits - one problem I have is with duty/tax on importing into Thailand only to be re-exported again. Between tax and shipping it adds a hefty cost penalty.
It occurred to me that there may be a US-based potential partner out there who wants to make a fee for part splitting ("kitting") and shipping. That is, you would receive bulk reels of parts, count them (actually measure them against printed guides), cut tape, and place them into bins, and then dump the bins into ziploc bags. Then ship them to customers within USA. Such an arrangement would result in quicker delivery and lower final cost for DIY customers. I don't know what the profit on that would be - not huge, but something to make it worth some time cutting, packing and going to the post office. It avoids a whole lotta duty/intl shipping issues.
Serious interested person should PM me.
It occurred to me that there may be a US-based potential partner out there who wants to make a fee for part splitting ("kitting") and shipping. That is, you would receive bulk reels of parts, count them (actually measure them against printed guides), cut tape, and place them into bins, and then dump the bins into ziploc bags. Then ship them to customers within USA. Such an arrangement would result in quicker delivery and lower final cost for DIY customers. I don't know what the profit on that would be - not huge, but something to make it worth some time cutting, packing and going to the post office. It avoids a whole lotta duty/intl shipping issues.
Serious interested person should PM me.
Most people in the world don't live in the US. Thailand is probably closer to the heart of the action than the US would be.
Looking at making K16 and K1 kits - one problem I have is with duty/tax on importing into Thailand only to be re-exported again. Between tax and shipping it adds a hefty cost penalty.
It occurred to me that there may be a US-based potential partner out there who wants to make a fee for part splitting ("kitting") and shipping. That is, you would receive bulk reels of parts, count them (actually measure them against printed guides), cut tape, and place them into bins, and then dump the bins into ziploc bags. Then ship them to customers within USA. Such an arrangement would result in quicker delivery and lower final cost for DIY customers. I don't know what the profit on that would be - not huge, but something to make it worth some time cutting, packing and going to the post office. It avoids a whole lotta duty/intl shipping issues.
Serious interested person should PM me.
It occurred to me that there may be a US-based potential partner out there who wants to make a fee for part splitting ("kitting") and shipping. That is, you would receive bulk reels of parts, count them (actually measure them against printed guides), cut tape, and place them into bins, and then dump the bins into ziploc bags. Then ship them to customers within USA. Such an arrangement would result in quicker delivery and lower final cost for DIY customers. I don't know what the profit on that would be - not huge, but something to make it worth some time cutting, packing and going to the post office. It avoids a whole lotta duty/intl shipping issues.
Serious interested person should PM me.
Is the stencil plastic or a metal sheet? I have a machine shop near my house, if you're short in supply I can check with them
I'm not sure how that relates to the text you quoted. On a tangent, the stencils I provide are cheap plastic ones. Metal stencils cost $70 in China and usually several hundred in USA or "other expensive countries". Plastic stencils are ok for DIY short run use, not for automated production.I make the plastic ones myself on my cutter, so there is no issue with getting them. It's noisy as heck cutting them and they take over an hour each. That's the only reason I put them at $10 - to limit demand and not be living 24/7 with the noise. I offer them as a convenience as otherwise you can order high-end Mylar ones from the US that cost $35 plus shipping.
See, http://www.pololu.com/stencilquote/new
eg.
Code:
Turn Time
-------- Same Day Next Day 2 Days 3 Days 4 Days 5 Days
Price: $74.00 $66.60 $59.20 $51.80 $44.40 $37.00
Ships on: Jul 29 Jul 30 Jul 31 Aug 01 Aug 02 Aug 05
That's weird that the size is different. I wasn't suggesting you should do it -- you've definitely done enough! But if someone needed a replacement that looked like the best and they should go ahead and make the changes to get it working. There's like 10,000 of them available on digikey between the two packages.
I'm not sure if USB capability is even needed, is the communication slow enough to go through the serial port? People could add a USB-serial converter if needed.
It's probably possible to use the SS version on a "slave only" board as-is. I would have to look again at pinout. I believe the data pins, especially the USART and I2C ones match up. For those with a shortage of chips for SS boards in a chain anyway, it could work.I'm not sure if USB capability is even needed, is the communication slow enough to go through the serial port? People could add a USB-serial converter if needed.
On the QFN it's too bad they changed from 5mm on the older chip to 4mm on the new '1459.
There is boat loads of '14K50s around. I think Mouser has some like 300,000 of them. It would solve supply problems but requires another development cycle to alter board, build and test for software changes. Probably a few weeks anyway.
Is the stencil plastic or a metal sheet? I have a machine shop near my house, if you're short in supply I can check with them
That's weird that the size is different. I wasn't suggesting you should do it -- you've definitely done enough! But if someone needed a replacement that looked like the best and they should go ahead and make the changes to get it working. There's like 10,000 of them available on digikey between the two packages.
I'm not sure if USB capability is even needed, is the communication slow enough to go through the serial port? People could add a USB-serial converter if needed.
It's probably possible to use the SS version on a "slave only" board as-is. I would have to look again at pinout. I believe the data pins, especially the USART and I2C ones match up. For those with a shortage of chips for SS boards in a chain anyway, it could work.I'm not sure if USB capability is even needed, is the communication slow enough to go through the serial port? People could add a USB-serial converter if needed.
On the QFN it's too bad they changed from 5mm on the older chip to 4mm on the new '1459.
There is boat loads of '14K50s around. I think Mouser has some like 300,000 of them. It would solve supply problems but requires another development cycle to alter board, build and test for software changes. Probably a few weeks anyway.
That's weird that the size is different. I wasn't suggesting you should do it -- you've definitely done enough! But if someone needed a replacement that looked like the best and they should go ahead and make the changes to get it working. There's like 10,000 of them available on digikey between the two packages.
I'm not sure if USB capability is even needed, is the communication slow enough to go through the serial port? People could add a USB-serial converter if needed.
I'm not sure if USB capability is even needed, is the communication slow enough to go through the serial port? People could add a USB-serial converter if needed.
bkkcoins, it looks like the ceramic cap is sold out on digi, mouse etc. Since I'm making all my purchases on mouse (to save on shipment) can I use this is a replacement?
Original part:
C1005X7S1A474K
Replacement part:
C1005X5R1A474K
----------
Original part:
C3216X7S0J476M
Replacement part:
C3216X5R0J476M
The only difference is that the operating temperature range is "- 55 C to + 85 C" instead of "- 55 C to + 125 C"
Would that really matter?
You should be fine with those. The higher temp range just provides a bit more endurance for longevity. The ASIC chip is rated at 85C - so you should never reach near that even. As long as you have a heat sink and fan it doesn't appear to reach beyond the 50s, maybe 60C.Original part:
C1005X7S1A474K
Replacement part:
C1005X5R1A474K
----------
Original part:
C3216X7S0J476M
Replacement part:
C3216X5R0J476M
The only difference is that the operating temperature range is "- 55 C to + 85 C" instead of "- 55 C to + 125 C"
Would that really matter?
1.2V is that a real voltage measurement? How is the voltage measured ?
It's just a fixed value displayed by the driver so it looks like other devices. There is no voltage control or monitoring.
Next week I get some non-functional K16 boards I ordered so that I can verify parts placement, solder stencil, solderability, etc.
This is a version 1 board I have for this purpose. Here below, I show parts placed by the PnP onto double sided tape. Some of the parts move around a little, but much better than no tape.
..pic removed..
The origin of the board needs to be honed in a little, but when the board is heated and the solder paste starts to reflow, all the parts get sucked into the solder and onto the pads.
I have enough parts on hand to make about 250 K16's. The first 50 are mine and the rest I will build for customers.
www.mittenmining.com
Nice to see it on the PnP, and that working out.This is a version 1 board I have for this purpose. Here below, I show parts placed by the PnP onto double sided tape. Some of the parts move around a little, but much better than no tape.
..pic removed..
The origin of the board needs to be honed in a little, but when the board is heated and the solder paste starts to reflow, all the parts get sucked into the solder and onto the pads.
I have enough parts on hand to make about 250 K16's. The first 50 are mine and the rest I will build for customers.
www.mittenmining.com
If the PIC availability gets bad, it looks like the 18F14K50 is 20 SSOP package, USB, internal 48MHz oscillator, 2K more program memory, slightly less RAM, same voltage range. It looks like the power and ICSP pins are in the same place. Would just need someone to change any pin assignments and compile with the 18 version.
The 18LF14K50 is similar and the 16LF1459 is based off that chip. The former requires an external 12MHz oscillator for USB use - no internal one but has PLL. Also, the QFN version is a different size. The software may require some changes because it is missing an internal PWM and there may be some other differences. I looked at that one and considered doing a revision. I'm just too tired to launch into a new one now. It could become the basis for an updated K1.163C ?!?
board don't have temp sensor.we modified k16 firmware for testing, temperature is random value.
about cgminer...
klondike version work good on linux but build for win crash after start.
if we make working k1 first, we send you few for testing...
1.2V is that a real voltage measurement? How is the voltage measured ?
Next week I get some non-functional K16 boards I ordered so that I can verify parts placement, solder stencil, solderability, etc.
This is a version 1 board I have for this purpose. Here below, I show parts placed by the PnP onto double sided tape. Some of the parts move around a little, but much better than no tape.
The origin of the board needs to be honed in a little, but when the board is heated and the solder paste starts to reflow, all the parts get sucked into the solder and onto the pads.
I have enough parts on hand to make about 250 K16's. The first 50 are mine and the rest I will build for customers.
www.mittenmining.com
This is a version 1 board I have for this purpose. Here below, I show parts placed by the PnP onto double sided tape. Some of the parts move around a little, but much better than no tape.
The origin of the board needs to be honed in a little, but when the board is heated and the solder paste starts to reflow, all the parts get sucked into the solder and onto the pads.
I have enough parts on hand to make about 250 K16's. The first 50 are mine and the rest I will build for customers.
www.mittenmining.com
= 325F It has double use as a hasher and a portable grill?
If the PIC availability gets bad, it looks like the 18F14K50 is 20 SSOP package, USB, internal 48MHz oscillator, 2K more program memory, slightly less RAM, same voltage range. It looks like the power and ICSP pins are in the same place. Would just need someone to change any pin assignments and compile with the 18 version.
bkkcoins, it looks like the ceramic cap is sold out on digi, mouse etc. Since I'm making all my purchases on mouse (to save on shipment) can I use this is a replacement?
The only difference is that the operating temperature range is "- 55 C to + 85 C" instead of "- 55 C to + 125 C"
The only difference is that the operating temperature range is "- 55 C to + 85 C" instead of "- 55 C to + 125 C"
I think that's a pretty safe bet and all should work just fine. We know those ASICs will get hot (hence the +125C) but the board will likely never reach over 75C (even though the silicon inside the chip may get to 85) - it has a lot of surface to dissipate it.
Alternatively - for general filter capacitors you can most likely just look the next value higher - instead of 0.47uF you could go with 0.51uF or 0.56uF or even higher. It is likely that a smaller value like 0.33uF will work just fine too .. a 0.1uF used to be the norm
But if you go with a smaller one that may affect things, so risk goes up a bit.If you're wondering what's the next value up or down - look up the E24 or E12 series (here is a nice list: http://www.logwell.com/tech/components/resistor_values.html )
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