Placing machines outside on cold winter? -20 - page 4.

Sweminer777

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Quote from: notlist3d on October 24, 2015, 07:41:32 PM

Quote from: Sweminer777 on October 24, 2015, 03:42:03 PM

Quote from: Bitsaurus on October 21, 2015, 04:41:59 AM

Remember that heat is also generated when there is any resistance. If you have a weld and use different metals (aluminum/copper) you will run into other issues.

What are this issues?.

My copper wiring was connect "soldered" to aluminium cables at the end.

I love that your brave enough to do this. It makes it a fun thread to read, and intresting as it's a different setup.

I think issues are shown in picture: http://imgur.com/a/jHCcZ . That wiring scares the heck out of me personally.

Hahaha. yeah well if you don't try you never know
I am not 100% educated on electricity, i have learned new things here in forum.

Contacts from PSU är made of Bronze, connected to the copper wirings, and then to Aluminium cables. so its kinda a nice mix up haha Grin

.

I will sort out the wiring. i am able to do it proffesionaly, it's just the that it takes time, and time is money my friend.

I have sold some machines, keeping 1x s5 antminer right now.

Will try to make fund for a s5++ or wait for next gen, i guess that whit price going up machines will go up aswell.

but yeah, i guess some machines could work outside in the winter , gotta find out wich machines.

notlist3d

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Quote from: Sweminer777 on October 24, 2015, 03:42:03 PM

Quote from: Bitsaurus on October 21, 2015, 04:41:59 AM

Remember that heat is also generated when there is any resistance. If you have a weld and use different metals (aluminum/copper) you will run into other issues.

What are this issues?.

My copper wiring was connect "soldered" to aluminium cables at the end.

I love that your brave enough to do this. It makes it a fun thread to read, and intresting as it's a different setup.

I think issues are shown in picture: http://imgur.com/a/jHCcZ . That wiring scares the heck out of me personally.

Plento

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Put your stuff in a shed, just make sure you monitor humidity and you should be fine.

Sweminer777

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Quote from: Bitsaurus on October 21, 2015, 04:41:59 AM

Remember that heat is also generated when there is any resistance. If you have a weld and use different metals (aluminum/copper) you will run into other issues.

What are this issues?.

My copper wiring was connect "soldered" to aluminium cables at the end.

Betwrong

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Quote from: Sweminer777 on October 20, 2015, 03:58:23 PM

oh yeah,

pro build is always better .

Well.

Ive had my sp20 and s5s outside, and let me say that they underperform at cold temps.

So skip putting them outside, will just warm the house for winter .

That's a nice decision! I was always thinking what if not just ventilate out the hot air but to use for heating something like a greenhouse or even the house where you live.

Bitsaurus

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Remember that heat is also generated when there is any resistance. If you have a weld and use different metals (aluminum/copper) you will run into other issues.

SunnyIgor

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house only 60m2,
to hot Grin

for 5KW
possebly 10KW in future Wink

Sweminer777

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oh yeah,

pro build is always better .

Well.

Ive had my sp20 and s5s outside, and let me say that they underperform at cold temps.

So skip putting them outside, will just warm the house for winter .

notlist3d

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Quote from: Sweminer777 on October 19, 2015, 04:06:26 PM

If it's for fans there is no problem whit that electrical tape.

This should be true as it should not have a lot of electricity going through molex to fan. You can buy a professional one cheap though:

One amazon 9 bucks from one molex to 6 fans: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007S3T4O0?keywords=molex%20to%20fan&qid=1445303953&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

I used two of these with C1's at a point they are as solid as it gets and works good.

Sweminer777

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If it's for fans there is no problem whit that electrical tape.

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Quote from: notlist3d on October 19, 2015, 01:49:18 AM

Quote from: SunnyIgor on October 19, 2015, 01:23:29 AM

if you make your own cable, like combine two with solderingiron, is electrical tape enough?
when no shrinking tube available?

I'm guessing you could wrap it enough times. But sounds like a horrible idea. Don't make a cable with electrical tape.

Shrinking tube would be so much nicer. (I'm assuming you mean entire cord not just a tiny spot)

like this:

If you say bad idea, i will get more shrinking tube, this wil also be in the outside. In the cabitnet of radiators.
see:

Quote from: SunnyIgor on October 17, 2015, 09:44:23 AM

I don't know if it will be a real project.
just some idea popped in to my mind seeing an unused c1 in the bathroom.
I am looking for some experts opinion on it if it will be doable.
Also just finiched my sick radiator cabitnet.

notlist3d

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Quote from: SunnyIgor on October 19, 2015, 01:23:29 AM

if you make your own cable, like combine two with solderingiron, is electrical tape enough?
when no shrinking tube available?

I'm guessing you could wrap it enough times. But sounds like a horrible idea. Don't make a cable with electrical tape.

Shrinking tube would be so much nicer. (I'm assuming you mean entire cord not just a tiny spot)

SunnyIgor

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if you make your own cable, like combine two with solderingiron, is electrical tape enough?
when no shrinking tube available?

notlist3d

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Quote from: Betwrong on October 18, 2015, 05:03:43 AM

Quote from: notlist3d on October 17, 2015, 11:50:27 AM

Quote from: Borisz on October 17, 2015, 08:00:14 AM

Nice experiment man! Don't forget to write down the results you get for yourself and for public knowledge as well Wink

Specifications usually mention 0 deg C as a minimum, because equipment is not tested below that, but this doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe you can even give feedback to the manufacturer saying that you tested it for X time and worked / did not work.

As for your cables, others said as well, look into them. Burned cables are no good. Also, 4A/mm2 can be taken as the rough measure on how much current you can push through a copper cable. Don't go above it when operating continuously.

Cables are not that expensive they really need replaced with proper cables. It appears like it burnt through coating on parts and is covered with electrical tape. Just almost asking for electrical fire with that.

You will think us one day if you spend the money to get new wires.

Yes, I agree. Even if they are working ok now as OP says it's still better replace them because electrical tape is not a good coating for cables.

It honestly hurts me to read threads like this. Those wires are not safe. Add some cold weather and some snow/other water source. Combined with exposed wire... it's asking for trouble.

I can understand trying to stay low cost but really change out the wires. After you burn them out electrical tape is not a fix.

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Quote from: notlist3d on October 17, 2015, 11:50:27 AM

Quote from: Borisz on October 17, 2015, 08:00:14 AM

Nice experiment man! Don't forget to write down the results you get for yourself and for public knowledge as well Wink

Specifications usually mention 0 deg C as a minimum, because equipment is not tested below that, but this doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe you can even give feedback to the manufacturer saying that you tested it for X time and worked / did not work.

As for your cables, others said as well, look into them. Burned cables are no good. Also, 4A/mm2 can be taken as the rough measure on how much current you can push through a copper cable. Don't go above it when operating continuously.

Cables are not that expensive they really need replaced with proper cables. It appears like it burnt through coating on parts and is covered with electrical tape. Just almost asking for electrical fire with that.

You will think us one day if you spend the money to get new wires.

Yes, I agree. Even if they are working ok now as OP says it's still better replace them because electrical tape is not a good coating for cables.

notlist3d

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Quote from: Borisz on October 17, 2015, 08:00:14 AM

Nice experiment man! Don't forget to write down the results you get for yourself and for public knowledge as well Wink

Specifications usually mention 0 deg C as a minimum, because equipment is not tested below that, but this doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe you can even give feedback to the manufacturer saying that you tested it for X time and worked / did not work.

As for your cables, others said as well, look into them. Burned cables are no good. Also, 4A/mm2 can be taken as the rough measure on how much current you can push through a copper cable. Don't go above it when operating continuously.

Cables are not that expensive they really need replaced with proper cables. It appears like it burnt through coating on parts and is covered with electrical tape. Just almost asking for electrical fire with that.

You will think us one day if you spend the money to get new wires.

Borisz

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Nice experiment man! Don't forget to write down the results you get for yourself and for public knowledge as well Wink

Specifications usually mention 0 deg C as a minimum, because equipment is not tested below that, but this doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe you can even give feedback to the manufacturer saying that you tested it for X time and worked / did not work.

As for your cables, others said as well, look into them. Burned cables are no good. Also, 4A/mm2 can be taken as the rough measure on how much current you can push through a copper cable. Don't go above it when operating continuously.

Sweminer777

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I am running it whit those cables.

they are about 2.5mm thick.

I know they look ugly but it is working fine , i have been checking them alot, they are not heating up anymore like before.

Machine has been working fine, it works fine at Low FAN speeds 10-20 is good else it drops alot in ghz if i cool it down to much so might be some signs that it's not convenient to even run at lower temps?.

Ambien temps are 12c and 39c backplate.
Asics are running between 70~c and 90~c

Quote

[H:HW:1592Gh (500),DC-W:865,L:0,A:8,MMtmp:0 TMP:(22/22)=>=>=>(39/39 , 41/41)]
Pushed 10 jobs , in HW queue 4 jobs (sw:2, hw:2)!
min:32 wins:51939[this/last min:24/38] bist-fail:105, hw-err:0
leading-zeroes:41 idle promils[s/m]:0/0, rate:1328gh/s asic-count:10056 (wins:11+13)
wall watts:1171
Fan:27, conseq:200
AC2DC BAD: 0 0
R/NR: 75326/0
RTF asics: 0
FET: 0:9 1:9

The S5.s wich are inside are running at 1250~ up to 1.3 clocked at 391, whit open windows to let the room cooldown they bump up som ghz.

Migh consider to just run the s5.s outside, will put them outside maybe in the week to see how they perfom.

The s5 are pulling 1.2kw clocked together they do 2.5ghz~.

On the night i am doing 4.2thz~.

At morning i am going from 3900 to 4100, i guess the temps might play some roll, need to do some more research.

The sun still heats alot .

The air Is really cold and getting colder.

notlist3d

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Quote from: sloopy on October 11, 2015, 11:58:33 AM

Quote from: Sweminer777 on October 11, 2015, 07:54:24 AM

sp20 wich is outside.

http://imgur.com/a/jHCcZ

You aren't running it with damaged cables are you?

It appears anwser is yes on mutiple... with electrical tape. I wondered what wiring was like dang..... OP you really need to think about shutting down rig.

It just is scary on the wiring. That is a fire hazard.

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Quote from: Sweminer777 on October 11, 2015, 07:54:24 AM

sp20 wich is outside.

http://imgur.com/a/jHCcZ

You aren't running it with damaged cables are you?

Topic: Placing machines outside on cold winter? -20 - page 4. (Read 16808 times)