I bought an Xbox One and a PlayStation 4 to commemorate the Bitcoin explosion by the way. And my One controller came exactly the same time as the board.
A bit off topic, but how is the Xbox One?
Topic: Swedish ASIC miner company kncminer.com - page 997. (Read 3050071 times)
A bit off topic, but how is the Xbox One?
Pools yesterday 21. of nov. 2013
GHASH.io = 21 Blocks with avg. 1.250 Th/s
Eligius = 17 Blocks with avg. 600 Th/s
Bitminter = 7 Blocks with avg. 300 Th/s
BTCGulde = 38 Blocks with avg. 1.350 Th/s
Dear KNC Fans,
sorry for this post, I know it is not the right thread, but i life here, sorry.
Can we talk a litte about this?
Fee or not to fee, this is the question? Or not?! I say i will pay an fee but i can earn
some more with 38 found blocks as with 17 found blocks. I´m on btcguilde since yesterday evening 09:30 pm.
I will post my stats (1 x Jupiter) this night.
I have an other question, what is better:
a) delivering shares with an diff of 1024 (on my Jupiter) or shares with an lower diff (on eligius my shares mixed 128 / 256 / 512 but no 1024)
Will the shares with higher diff paid better?
EDIT:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3672196
GHASH.io = 21 Blocks with avg. 1.250 Th/s
Eligius = 17 Blocks with avg. 600 Th/s
Bitminter = 7 Blocks with avg. 300 Th/s
BTCGulde = 38 Blocks with avg. 1.350 Th/s
Dear KNC Fans,
sorry for this post, I know it is not the right thread, but i life here, sorry.
Can we talk a litte about this?
Fee or not to fee, this is the question? Or not?! I say i will pay an fee but i can earn
some more with 38 found blocks as with 17 found blocks. I´m on btcguilde since yesterday evening 09:30 pm.
I will post my stats (1 x Jupiter) this night.
I have an other question, what is better:
a) delivering shares with an diff of 1024 (on my Jupiter) or shares with an lower diff (on eligius my shares mixed 128 / 256 / 512 but no 1024)
Will the shares with higher diff paid better?
EDIT:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3672196
Doesn't enable all cores just enable them at that time? Then when running they will eventually go off/on again anyway.
Anyone use a 10-pin connector directly on the PSU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19648/ele-1163/FrozenCPU_ConnectRight_10-Pin_Female_PSU_Power_Connector_-_Corsair_Seasonic_-_Black.html
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/large/ele-1163.jpg[/img]
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/ele-1162a.jpg[/img]
]https://i.imgur.com/IgvIyv5.jpg[/img]
I can't find it in the UK or Europe
And the usual 6 pin PCI-E does not fit.
Any ideas?
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/large/ele-1163.jpg[/img]
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/ele-1162a.jpg[/img]
]https://i.imgur.com/IgvIyv5.jpg[/img]
I can't find it in the UK or Europe
And the usual 6 pin PCI-E does not fit.Any ideas?
I jump all my PSUs right at the modular connector. You don't have to have 10pin connector if you can just get the female crimp pins instead. Make a small lead and attach it to the proper PS_On and Gnd pins.
P.S. - I do make switch connectors that will work for this but the shipping to Europe sucks cost wise for singles.
Do you mean to get these, connect a cable between them, insulate them and then plug it directly into the PSU:
Can you post some pictures on what you made, so I can get a better idea.
Thank you.
Yes that is what you need. You just crimp a 4-5cm section of 18AWG wire and then plug it in. If you are paranoid then cover over in electrical tape. Not the prettiest thing but will work fine and is cheap.
Check the thread in my sig for my switches. Here is pic of the idea (not mine and its a little long):
Thank you again.
Do I need a special crimp tool to attach the cable to the pins or I can just use a household pliers and squeeze it until it bites the wire?
Also do you know of any other connector I can use apart from the 10 pin one if I decide to go that way? I tried a 6 pin PCi-E, but it's just not made to go there.
I need to make 4 for 2 PSUs: CM V850 and EVGA 1300W - the former has the PS_ON pin on a 10 pin connector and the latter has it on a 18 pin connector.
I grew up using those. You should use a proper crimping tool. They are cheap as hell at wal mart and a myriad other places. you CAN do it with a pair of basic pliers, but it's difficult.
This one is for the Seasonic/Corsair units. All you need to do is slap some pins in there and short it out.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21185/ele-1200/FrozenCPU_ConnectRight_14-Pin_Female_PSU_Power_Connector_-_Corsair_Seasonic_-_Black.html?id=zFLcEZGE&mv_pc=207
Here are the pins:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1789/ele-132/FrozenCPU_ConnectRight_ATX_PCI_EPS_Connector_Pins_-_Female_-_4_Pack.html?id=zFLcEZGE&mv_pc=329
I just got my PLUTO (Jupiter + 2 Add on) modules. Managed to get this running without any issues albeit slightly higher temperature for one of the modules.
Getting around 849G
Cheers
Getting around 849G
Cheers
What i doesn´t know is, how can i make my changes permanent, so that I
have not to do this every reboot.
thx
store copies of any files you want to keep in /config
then just make a script to copy everything to their proper place from /config.
Run that after a reboot.
PM to me at KNCFORUM:
Did you see my previous PM to you about overclocking? I would like to know more if you will share.
ME:
It would be the same as inside the upcoming knc tuner suite, and yes that file what you mean before it is an part of it, but
now called waas, you can find it inside the monitor script.
And no, i can´t share this information, because it works only short and now i have four brand new (not so good) boards inside the machine.
For this i will do no more tests.
make a cat to waas or execute it.
You can found more infos from me on bitcointalk. (https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3597963)
Controlling the SPM bus and adjusting the voltage to an physical possible near the maximum of 2.0, adjuste frequency of the en-/disablecores,
shutoff permanent the death cores, work with the spi_frequency (max. 300.000), enable queue >1 it needs an micro-sd-card (hurry-up and buy on 4 GB its ok or max 32GB
It is not more.
-> orama, did i forgot something?
(p.s. i talked never with him about this!!!)
Did you see my previous PM to you about overclocking? I would like to know more if you will share.
ME:
It would be the same as inside the upcoming knc tuner suite, and yes that file what you mean before it is an part of it, but
now called waas, you can find it inside the monitor script.
And no, i can´t share this information, because it works only short and now i have four brand new (not so good) boards inside the machine.
For this i will do no more tests.
make a cat to waas or execute it.
You can found more infos from me on bitcointalk. (https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3597963)
Controlling the SPM bus and adjusting the voltage to an physical possible near the maximum of 2.0, adjuste frequency of the en-/disablecores,
shutoff permanent the death cores, work with the spi_frequency (max. 300.000), enable queue >1 it needs an micro-sd-card (hurry-up and buy on 4 GB its ok or max 32GB
It is not more.
-> orama, did i forgot something?
(p.s. i talked never with him about this!!!)
So how does Bertmod work? Is there a version that works with 0.99 ?
You just install it like a firmware upgrade.
Version 0.3 seems to work ok with 0.99.
Thanks. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Tired after setting everything up.
I have 6 modules running in each Jupiter. Getting a lot of cores enabling and disabling. But it was better than before. enabledcores.bin was needed every time a new module was added.
Getting 750-800GH in each Jup now. Reading about 990-995w at the wall.
Anyone use a 10-pin connector directly on the PSU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19648/ele-1163/FrozenCPU_ConnectRight_10-Pin_Female_PSU_Power_Connector_-_Corsair_Seasonic_-_Black.html
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/large/ele-1163.jpg[/img]
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/ele-1162a.jpg[/img]
]https://i.imgur.com/IgvIyv5.jpg[/img]
I can't find it in the UK or Europe And the usual 6 pin PCI-E does not fit.
Any ideas?
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/large/ele-1163.jpg[/img]
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/ele-1162a.jpg[/img]
]https://i.imgur.com/IgvIyv5.jpg[/img]
I can't find it in the UK or Europe
And the usual 6 pin PCI-E does not fit.Any ideas?
I jump all my PSUs right at the modular connector. You don't have to have 10pin connector if you can just get the female crimp pins instead. Make a small lead and attach it to the proper PS_On and Gnd pins.
P.S. - I do make switch connectors that will work for this but the shipping to Europe sucks cost wise for singles.
Do you mean to get these, connect a cable between them, insulate them and then plug it directly into the PSU:
Can you post some pictures on what you made, so I can get a better idea.
Thank you.
Yes that is what you need. You just crimp a 4-5cm section of 18AWG wire and then plug it in. If you are paranoid then cover over in electrical tape. Not the prettiest thing but will work fine and is cheap.
Check the thread in my sig for my switches. Here is pic of the idea (not mine and its a little long):
Thank you again.
Do I need a special crimp tool to attach the cable to the pins or I can just use a household pliers and squeeze it until it bites the wire?
Also do you know of any other connector I can use apart from the 10 pin one if I decide to go that way? I tried a 6 pin PCi-E, but it's just not made to go there.
I need to make 4 for 2 PSUs: CM V850 and EVGA 1300W - the former has the PS_ON pin on a 10 pin connector and the latter has it on a 18 pin connector.
I grew up using those. You should use a proper crimping tool. They are cheap as hell at wal mart and a myriad other places. you CAN do it with a pair of basic pliers, but it's difficult.
BiG IFs!
would be unicorns and rainbows for KNC in that they could run this out till Feb 2014 w/o real asic competition.....
What a luck for us KNC customers
So Awesome r1senfa17h!!
i would be so scared of voiding the warranty, especially with no modules to add.....however, you did great!
If only KnC had done the job fairly for all rigs 'we' wouldnt need to risk voiding warranty/destroying our rigs AND those '200 only' modules might have sold out in 30 seconds instead of 3 minutes....
BiG IFs!
i would be so scared of voiding the warranty, especially with no modules to add.....however, you did great!
If only KnC had done the job fairly for all rigs 'we' wouldnt need to risk voiding warranty/destroying our rigs AND those '200 only' modules might have sold out in 30 seconds instead of 3 minutes....
BiG IFs!
Yes imagine an upgrade path that the modules are plentiful and available as time goes on till next gen asic is offered by knc...with corresponding drop in prices as difficulty increases...KNC would OWN the asic world with that kinda plan now...why would any 'present' customer of knc go anywhere ad you could slowly add fair priced hashrate as an option int he future according to needs/costs
crap...wish it was so....would be unicorns and rainbows for KNC in that they could run this out till Feb 2014 w/o real asic competition.....
Well, I've got 5 modules running now and I'm getting about 660GH/s. Adding only 110GH/s to my old 550GH/s seemed slow, so I used bertmod and see that I've got the dreaded Die 0 issue! I'm running firmware 0.98.1 and blocked the airflow to raise the temp without success (reached 80 degrees C before I lost my nerve and started the fan again).
Are there any other tricks before I decide to RMA it? My 2nd module arrives tomorrow and I'm hoping for better luck.
Are there any other tricks before I decide to RMA it? My 2nd module arrives tomorrow and I'm hoping for better luck.
It's not the ASIC that needs to get hot, it's the VRMs. I know this cause I used the water cooling to test it. I had no fan on the radiator, and a fan blowing on the VMRs, the temp never raised and the die never came back on. Switch to a fan cooling the radiator and no fan on the VRMs, the temp shot up and the dead die came alive.
YES:
See here: my last two posts
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3522722
I purchased 2 of the recent fire-sale modules for my 4-port Jupiter, but needed to add a couple of pin headers to support all six modules.
I've never really soldered anything before and had no idea what I was doing, but I managed to get everything working! It took a few tries though. I made the assumption that the two blank spaces were simply solder filled holes, but no matter how hot I heated them, I couldn't melt them. I ended up just soldering to the surface.
I'm currently running my existing 4 modules on ports 2-5 so that I can simply attach the new ones onto the side of my open-case Jupiter using ports 1 and 6.
The point of me sharing this is simply to show my excitement and proof that even a noob like me can make this work!
I've never really soldered anything before and had no idea what I was doing, but I managed to get everything working! It took a few tries though. I made the assumption that the two blank spaces were simply solder filled holes, but no matter how hot I heated them, I couldn't melt them. I ended up just soldering to the surface.
I'm currently running my existing 4 modules on ports 2-5 so that I can simply attach the new ones onto the side of my open-case Jupiter using ports 1 and 6.
The point of me sharing this is simply to show my excitement and proof that even a noob like me can make this work!
you are either the bravest NOOB who ever existed or are very very well off $$ wise to take the chance of "bricking" your system....either way I SALUTE YOU ...you have "big brass ones"
alas I could try the same but have no modules......sure looks pretty though....
Searing
Now that I've got a steady power feed, I'm going to give 0.99 another try....
Just flashed it....
*edit... one didn't seem to jump up like the others, even tho bertmod showed all is ok...
rebooted & reflashed it, and it then reacted like the others... jumped right up to speed....
so far, so good... We'll see what Long term does...
Just flashed it....
*edit... one didn't seem to jump up like the others, even tho bertmod showed all is ok...
rebooted & reflashed it, and it then reacted like the others... jumped right up to speed....
so far, so good... We'll see what Long term does...
if you have no DC/DC 0 problems, then you can disable this ..
here vi /sbin/monitordcdc
Code:
# Give them a kick!
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 0 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 1 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 2 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 3 >/dev/null 2>&1
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 0 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 1 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 2 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 3 >/dev/null 2>&1
like this:
Code:
# Give them a kick!
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 0 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 1 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 2 >/dev/null 2>&1
#usleep 300000
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 3 >/dev/null 2>&1
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 0 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 1 >/dev/null 2>&1
usleep 300000
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 2 >/dev/null 2>&1
#usleep 300000
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 3 >/dev/null 2>&1
Also this (it is the same):
Code:
# restart die
if [ "$failed0" = "1" ] ; then
if [ "$failed_non0" = "1" ] ; then
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 0
usleep 200000
failed1=1
failed2=1
failed3=1
fi
fi
if [ "$failed1" = "1" ] ; then
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 1
usleep 200000
fi
if [ "$failed2" = "1" ] ; then
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 2
usleep 200000
fi
if [ "$failed3" = "1" ] ; then
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 3
fi
if [ "$failed0" = "1" ] ; then
if [ "$failed_non0" = "1" ] ; then
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 0
usleep 200000
failed1=1
failed2=1
failed3=1
fi
fi
if [ "$failed1" = "1" ] ; then
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 1
usleep 200000
fi
if [ "$failed2" = "1" ] ; then
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 2
usleep 200000
fi
if [ "$failed3" = "1" ] ; then
i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 3
fi
to this:
Code:
# restart die
if [ "$failed0" = "1" ] ; then
if [ "$failed_non0" = "1" ] ; then
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 0
usleep 200000
failed1=1
failed2=1
failed3=1
fi
fi
if [ "$failed1" = "1" ] ; then
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 1
usleep 200000
fi
if [ "$failed2" = "1" ] ; then
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 2
usleep 200000
fi
if [ "$failed3" = "1" ] ; then
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 3
fi
if [ "$failed0" = "1" ] ; then
if [ "$failed_non0" = "1" ] ; then
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 0
usleep 200000
failed1=1
failed2=1
failed3=1
fi
fi
if [ "$failed1" = "1" ] ; then
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 1
usleep 200000
fi
if [ "$failed2" = "1" ] ; then
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 2
usleep 200000
fi
if [ "$failed3" = "1" ] ; then
#i2cset -y 2 0x2$channel 0xe5 3
fi
Also you can set the
Code:
[s]INTERVAL=5[/s]
INTERVAL=15
INTERVAL=15
Enablecores (All) works on every cgminer start!
AND every 15 Minutes
Code:
/* Keep core disabled for no longer than 15 minutes */
#define CORE_DISA_PERIOD_US (15 * 60 * 1000000)
#define CORE_DISA_PERIOD_US (15 * 60 * 1000000)
What i doesn´t know is, how can i make my changes permanent, so that I
have not to do this every reboot.
thx
So I have reseated the fan and I think its better now.
I only got 2 screws with my upgrade module. It looks like there should be 4. Can anyone confirm? The board I got from KNC has 2 additional screws in it under the plate above the die.
But, regardless, its up and running at full steam it seems. My mercury with this upgrade board is running at 300GH/s.
I bought an Xbox One and a PlayStation 4 to commemorate the Bitcoin explosion by the way. And my One controller came exactly the same time as the board.
I only got 2 screws with my upgrade module. It looks like there should be 4. Can anyone confirm? The board I got from KNC has 2 additional screws in it under the plate above the die.
But, regardless, its up and running at full steam it seems. My mercury with this upgrade board is running at 300GH/s.
I bought an Xbox One and a PlayStation 4 to commemorate the Bitcoin explosion by the way. And my One controller came exactly the same time as the board.
Thank you again.
Do I need a special crimp tool to attach the cable to the pins or I can just use a household pliers and squeeze it until it bites the wire?
Also do you know of any other connector I can use apart from the 10 pin one if I decide to go that way? I tried a 6 pin PCi-E, but it's just not made to go there.
I need to make 4 for 2 PSUs: CM V850 and EVGA 1300W - the former has the PS_ON pin on a 10 pin connector and the latter has it on a 18 pin connector.
Do I need a special crimp tool to attach the cable to the pins or I can just use a household pliers and squeeze it until it bites the wire?
Also do you know of any other connector I can use apart from the 10 pin one if I decide to go that way? I tried a 6 pin PCi-E, but it's just not made to go there.
I need to make 4 for 2 PSUs: CM V850 and EVGA 1300W - the former has the PS_ON pin on a 10 pin connector and the latter has it on a 18 pin connector.
A crimp tool would be ideal but if not you could use a pair of small needle nose pliers to bend the metal, it is soft. I would follow up with a drop of solder on the crimped connection to make sure it stays in place and doesn't pull out when done that way.
As far the plastic connectors go they are all keyed differently but with a pattern. I really do not think you will get other types to fit in without first cutting off the latch and if you are going to do that I would not bother with them in the first place.
Considering you want 4 jumpers why not PM me and I can see what it would run to make them with the switches. With BTC so high it would be cheap (just sayin').
I can vouch for Cablez
He's da bomb with cables,if it can be done,he can do it!!!!!!! Thanks again for the excellent service Cablez !!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey...KNC...
1 Week since last update...
Please thow us doggies a Bone!.. Grufff!
1 Week since last update...
Please thow us doggies a Bone!.. Grufff!
Thank you again.
Do I need a special crimp tool to attach the cable to the pins or I can just use a household pliers and squeeze it until it bites the wire?
Also do you know of any other connector I can use apart from the 10 pin one if I decide to go that way? I tried a 6 pin PCi-E, but it's just not made to go there.
I need to make 4 for 2 PSUs: CM V850 and EVGA 1300W - the former has the PS_ON pin on a 10 pin connector and the latter has it on a 18 pin connector.
Do I need a special crimp tool to attach the cable to the pins or I can just use a household pliers and squeeze it until it bites the wire?
Also do you know of any other connector I can use apart from the 10 pin one if I decide to go that way? I tried a 6 pin PCi-E, but it's just not made to go there.
I need to make 4 for 2 PSUs: CM V850 and EVGA 1300W - the former has the PS_ON pin on a 10 pin connector and the latter has it on a 18 pin connector.
A crimp tool would be ideal but if not you could use a pair of small needle nose pliers to bend the metal, it is soft. I would follow up with a drop of solder on the crimped connection to make sure it stays in place and doesn't pull out when done that way.
As far the plastic connectors go they are all keyed differently but with a pattern. I really do not think you will get other types to fit in without first cutting off the latch and if you are going to do that I would not bother with them in the first place.
Considering you want 4 jumpers why not PM me and I can see what it would run to make them with the switches. With BTC so high it would be cheap (just sayin').
Please please tell me you have something soft under that board? There's a whole lot of teeny tiny components on the bottom that I can't imagine would like stone!
yeah I cut little squares of rubber gasket and made them three piece high under the 4 inner screw holes... so there is a few millimeters of space inbetween
Anyone use a 10-pin connector directly on the PSU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19648/ele-1163/FrozenCPU_ConnectRight_10-Pin_Female_PSU_Power_Connector_-_Corsair_Seasonic_-_Black.html
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/large/ele-1163.jpg[/img]
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/ele-1162a.jpg[/img]
]https://i.imgur.com/IgvIyv5.jpg[/img]
I can't find it in the UK or Europe And the usual 6 pin PCI-E does not fit.
Any ideas?
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/large/ele-1163.jpg[/img]
]http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/ele-1162a.jpg[/img]
]https://i.imgur.com/IgvIyv5.jpg[/img]
I can't find it in the UK or Europe
And the usual 6 pin PCI-E does not fit.Any ideas?
I jump all my PSUs right at the modular connector. You don't have to have 10pin connector if you can just get the female crimp pins instead. Make a small lead and attach it to the proper PS_On and Gnd pins.
P.S. - I do make switch connectors that will work for this but the shipping to Europe sucks cost wise for singles.
Do you mean to get these, connect a cable between them, insulate them and then plug it directly into the PSU:
Can you post some pictures on what you made, so I can get a better idea.
Thank you.
Yes that is what you need. You just crimp a 4-5cm section of 18AWG wire and then plug it in. If you are paranoid then cover over in electrical tape. Not the prettiest thing but will work fine and is cheap.
Check the thread in my sig for my switches. Here is pic of the idea (not mine and its a little long):
Thank you again.
Do I need a special crimp tool to attach the cable to the pins or I can just use a household pliers and squeeze it until it bites the wire?
Also do you know of any other connector I can use apart from the 10 pin one if I decide to go that way? I tried a 6 pin PCi-E, but it's just not made to go there.
I need to make 4 for 2 PSUs: CM V850 and EVGA 1300W - the former has the PS_ON pin on a 10 pin connector and the latter has it on a 18 pin connector.
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