Pages:
Author

Topic: The Chili – 30+GH/s BFL based Bitcoin Miner Assembly - page 21. (Read 138078 times)

member
Activity: 86
Merit: 10
Side question: What is the theoretical *maximum* a Chili can go if fully cooled? See I have a water block on this unit and it's hashing 39/37. But I could dunk the radiator into a 50 gallon ran barrel outside and suspend the Chili over it to bring the water temps down to 32 degrees. Can the chips go faster, or is there a theoretical maximum (the fact that the BFL chips are clocking at 5gh each *now* is without a doubt creepy.)
it seems like to me that the limit is 39ish GH/s because of the current limit on the power supply FETs.
 and
The hashrate just seems to hit a wall around 5GH/s per chip.
legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1004
Side question: What is the theoretical *maximum* a Chili can go if fully cooled? See I have a water block on this unit and it's hashing 39/37. But I could dunk the radiator into a 50 gallon ran barrel outside and suspend the Chili over it to bring the water temps down to 32 degrees. Can the chips go faster, or is there a theoretical maximum (the fact that the BFL chips are clocking at 5gh each *now* is without a doubt creepy.)
There's really not that much more room on them. The hashrate just seems to hit a wall around 5GH/s per chip.
legendary
Activity: 3220
Merit: 2334
I fix broken miners. And make holes in teeth :-)
Side question: What is the theoretical *maximum* a Chili can go if fully cooled? See I have a water block on this unit and it's hashing 39/37. But I could dunk the radiator into a 50 gallon ran barrel outside and suspend the Chili over it to bring the water temps down to 32 degrees. Can the chips go faster, or is there a theoretical maximum (the fact that the BFL chips are clocking at 5gh each *now* is without a doubt creepy.)
newbie
Activity: 29
Merit: 0
I can partially confirm what PhDminer was talking about earlier with the low temperatures. I took a unit offline to do a firmware update and after letting it sit for a couple minutes I had a hell of a time restarting it. It is a good performing (39GH/s @ 1.1V) unit, but it kept on restarting while it was powering up as it never got time to warm up. I ended up getting it started by removing the fan blowing cold air on it (it's -29C outside right now) and letting it get started and warmed up. I'll have to look into it deeper in the next couple days why it's doing this.

Thanks, Man!!
legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1004
Question about the H60 from Corsair... pump speed can be adjusted through the BIOS or firmware or in Windows when this is plugged into a motherboard for an actual CPU.

Is there something I can add to my batch files that will tell the 3 pin header on the Chili to lower the power so it lowers the pump rate? Others have mentioned this helps increase the hashrate due to the fluid picking up more heat and spending more time in the radiator to dissipate it.
I'm not sure on the H60, but my Water 2.0 Extreme has a USB plug that you plug into one of the USB headers on a motherboard, and you can control the fan speed separate of the pump speed. Is the H60 like that? If so, the Chili can't control it. All it does is PWM the fan, with a 5V minimum so the tach operates properly. I don't believe the cgminer fan control will work though, the fan is just controlled based on temperature at this point.

The fan on the radiator has its own three pin (albeit that it is a 4 pin head it has the guides and works fine on three pins) that is plugged into the first set of pins on the Chili (the set closer to the USB port) and the pump is plugged into the three pin that is closest to the power input. What I read on the Corsair forums was that in BIOS it sees it as any other device on the fan three pin... a fan that it can scale down.

So, if you are saying the that 3 pin fan header is only controlled by what temp is read... there is no way to just set it at a stable target?
Not right now, no.
legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1004
I might have just bricked my Chili. The flash utility crashed mid-flash, and now no lights come on after a power cycle, except the power light next to the socket. The flash utility no longer displays stats and it hangs as soon as I attempt to flash again. What can I do to diagnose this?

I checked the 3.3v and 5v test points and get correct results. The chip core voltage regulators are putting out 0v but I guess those don't come on until the firmware loads?

WinXP does recognize the Chili's presence just like before, so I guess the FTDI chip is ok? But with corrupt firmware, the ARM can't accept a flash over USB? Do I need to use JTAG now?
It's possible. The chip doesn't change the startup vector between the banks of flash until the very end so there is a very short window where you could actually brick the unit, so it should be very resilient to bricking. I did a few dozen trials of pulling the USB mid-flash, pulling the power to the board, and killing the ChiliFlash process but I was never able to get one to brick.
It does sound like you were able to though. Fire me off an email, and if you don't have a JTAG programmer we can probably reflash it for you.
hero member
Activity: 681
Merit: 500
I might have just bricked my Chili. The flash utility crashed mid-flash, and now no lights come on after a power cycle, except the power light next to the socket. The flash utility no longer displays stats and it hangs as soon as I attempt to flash again. What can I do to diagnose this?

I checked the 3.3v and 5v test points and get correct results. The chip core voltage regulators are putting out 0v but I guess those don't come on until the firmware loads?

WinXP does recognize the Chili's presence just like before, so I guess the FTDI chip is ok? But with corrupt firmware, the ARM can't accept a flash over USB? Do I need to use JTAG now?
hero member
Activity: 630
Merit: 500
Question about the H60 from Corsair... pump speed can be adjusted through the BIOS or firmware or in Windows when this is plugged into a motherboard for an actual CPU.

Is there something I can add to my batch files that will tell the 3 pin header on the Chili to lower the power so it lowers the pump rate? Others have mentioned this helps increase the hashrate due to the fluid picking up more heat and spending more time in the radiator to dissipate it.
I'm not sure on the H60, but my Water 2.0 Extreme has a USB plug that you plug into one of the USB headers on a motherboard, and you can control the fan speed separate of the pump speed. Is the H60 like that? If so, the Chili can't control it. All it does is PWM the fan, with a 5V minimum so the tach operates properly. I don't believe the cgminer fan control will work though, the fan is just controlled based on temperature at this point.

The fan on the radiator has its own three pin (albeit that it is a 4 pin head it has the guides and works fine on three pins) that is plugged into the first set of pins on the Chili (the set closer to the USB port) and the pump is plugged into the three pin that is closest to the power input. What I read on the Corsair forums was that in BIOS it sees it as any other device on the fan three pin... a fan that it can scale down.

So, if you are saying the that 3 pin fan header is only controlled by what temp is read... there is no way to just set it at a stable target?
legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1004
Question about the H60 from Corsair... pump speed can be adjusted through the BIOS or firmware or in Windows when this is plugged into a motherboard for an actual CPU.

Is there something I can add to my batch files that will tell the 3 pin header on the Chili to lower the power so it lowers the pump rate? Others have mentioned this helps increase the hashrate due to the fluid picking up more heat and spending more time in the radiator to dissipate it.
I'm not sure on the H60, but my Water 2.0 Extreme has a USB plug that you plug into one of the USB headers on a motherboard, and you can control the fan speed separate of the pump speed. Is the H60 like that? If so, the Chili can't control it. All it does is PWM the fan, with a 5V minimum so the tach operates properly. I don't believe the cgminer fan control will work though, the fan is just controlled based on temperature at this point.
legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1004
I can partially confirm what PhDminer was talking about earlier with the low temperatures. I took a unit offline to do a firmware update and after letting it sit for a couple minutes I had a hell of a time restarting it. It is a good performing (39GH/s @ 1.1V) unit, but it kept on restarting while it was powering up as it never got time to warm up. I ended up getting it started by removing the fan blowing cold air on it (it's -29C outside right now) and letting it get started and warmed up. I'll have to look into it deeper in the next couple days why it's doing this.
hero member
Activity: 630
Merit: 500
Deamonfox are you running thermal pad or thermal grease?

Both... pads on chips AND the compound that was on the block when it arrived. Earlier in this thread others had noted using the TIM with grease on top helped make an even better contact since some 1st gen boards had chips that were not level.
member
Activity: 67
Merit: 10
Deamonfox are you running thermal pad or thermal grease?
legendary
Activity: 3220
Merit: 2334
I fix broken miners. And make holes in teeth :-)
Question about the H60 from Corsair... pump speed can be adjusted through the BIOS or firmware or in Windows when this is plugged into a motherboard for an actual CPU.

Is there something I can add to my batch files that will tell the 3 pin header on the Chili to lower the power so it lowers the pump rate? Others have mentioned this helps increase the hashrate due to the fluid picking up more heat and spending more time in the radiator to dissipate it.
I do not know about the CPU speed ability, to be honest I cheated. My Noctura 92 fan came with a wonderful assortment of cables including one with an in-line resistor to slow the fan down. Works perfectly on the pump line, I use the splitter cable to power the fan at full speed, and the pump at reduced speed.

If you want to buy a resistor, you just need to use the r=e/i answer to find the right size. The question is how many watts does the pump pull? Then watts=i*e (current*voltage), volts is 12, solve for current, then put 2/current in the top equation to get the resistor size in ohms. (if you want to drop the voltage by 2 volts or 20ish%)

C

hero member
Activity: 630
Merit: 500
Question about the H60 from Corsair... pump speed can be adjusted through the BIOS or firmware or in Windows when this is plugged into a motherboard for an actual CPU.

Is there something I can add to my batch files that will tell the 3 pin header on the Chili to lower the power so it lowers the pump rate? Others have mentioned this helps increase the hashrate due to the fluid picking up more heat and spending more time in the radiator to dissipate it.
hero member
Activity: 630
Merit: 500
I have a wide range of hardware error rates.. I am wondering if they are related to cooling, luck or random chance...  So before I go tearing down my cards and reseating them how do these numbers sound?

1 card at 3.5% error rate, 7 cards around 8% error rate 2 cards at 10% (and change).

So should I be worried with 10% error rates or is this one of those random chance things?

Thanks in advance.

It is definitely a factor of chip cooling and airflow over the mosfets.

I started with an Accelero II mounted in line like you would on a GPU and the heatsink fins were over the mosfets... I averaged about 8% errors.

I rotated it 90 degrees and an 80mm fan right on top of the mosfets and gained a couple GH/s and down to 5% errors.

I have now moved on to an H60 Corsair water cooler and the 80mm on the mosfets but am now back at 8% errors (i believe due to the fail hardware included in the refurb box that wouldn't mount properly...) I am getting some long bolts and nuts to use a much better backplate tomorrow and expect the change to fix my issue and increase hashes.

UPDATE: Bolts, washers and nuts used to reseat and mount the water block... 33 GH/s and 4.4% HW errors.
hero member
Activity: 854
Merit: 500
I have a wide range of hardware error rates.. I am wondering if they are related to cooling, luck or random chance...  So before I go tearing down my cards and reseating them how do these numbers sound?

1 card at 3.5% error rate, 7 cards around 8% error rate 2 cards at 10% (and change).

So should I be worried with 10% error rates or is this one of those random chance things?

Thanks in advance.

No you are good!!

I have one with a 14% error rate and one with a 7%


member
Activity: 67
Merit: 10
I have a wide range of hardware error rates.. I am wondering if they are related to cooling, luck or random chance...  So before I go tearing down my cards and reseating them how do these numbers sound?

1 card at 3.5% error rate, 7 cards around 8% error rate 2 cards at 10% (and change).

So should I be worried with 10% error rates or is this one of those random chance things?

Thanks in advance.
donator
Activity: 686
Merit: 519
It's for the children!
Hi there, I have several chili's, One of the new ones I just received is having issues. When its first plugged in the LED's 5,6,7,8 come on and stay on and never go off.

Any suggestions? Thanks in Advance!~

guess you have to be a Sr. member around here to get a response..

Or patient.

Did you try unplugging, waiting 30 seconds and plugging in again? 
full member
Activity: 241
Merit: 101
Hi there, I have several chili's, One of the new ones I just received is having issues. When its first plugged in the LED's 5,6,7,8 come on and stay on and never go off.

Any suggestions? Thanks in Advance!~

guess you have to be a Sr. member around here to get a response..
newbie
Activity: 24
Merit: 0
Got the Chili + Evo 212 cooler. But I cant seem to make the cooler fit.....did anyone make a Youtube video on how to Mount ? Or pics ?

Lots of posts early in this thread

Edit:-   https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3355048

The feet do not work(holes in the board are too small)

Didnt notice the screws didnt fit Sad

What to do to get it running today when in Denmark......
There's a couple mods you can do to use the included hardware and the longer standoffs. Remove the screws from the cross brace and toss a couple #10 nuts (or some other space) on them, then put the spring and retaining clip back on.
http://i39.tinypic.com/315cviv.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/2rcor34.jpg

The less annoying and higher performance method (the backplate is in the better orientation) is to use some M4x50mm screws to hold it in place though.
http://i44.tinypic.com/qn7kzs.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/15xpg1g.jpg

Would like to use the M4x50mm version - but not sure how it will fit. The backplate needs 1 "side" of the screw to be "flat". Are you using a special M4 or am I missing something ?
Pages:
Jump to: