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Topic: (Updated w/ pics) Watercooled Rack of Servers - 50% completed - page 3. (Read 10536 times)

sr. member
Activity: 369
Merit: 250

When a high pressure and low pressure area being connected, the system will equalize itself by the fluid flow from one to another.

Negative or positive pressure doesnt mean low or high pressure.


"The term "negative pressure" is used in physics and engineering to refer to a situation in which an enclosed area has lower pressure than the area around it. Any compromise in the divide between the area of negative pressure and the more highly pressurized area around it would cause substances to flow into the area of negative pressure."

Please, humor me.
donator
Activity: 588
Merit: 500
The cards are in series. I have only one heat exchanger.
http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=54_119&product_id=944

Hi,
I have a similar setup, with 12 cards (9 5970 and 4 5870) working flowlessly for about 1 year.  The diferrence is that I ran them in series. I'm using a Koolance heat exchanger connected to the cold water line. Will soon add 5 more cards.


Running those plate exchangers in series? or the GPU block?

Because the former would ABSOLUTELY kill the pressure. I dont think thats good for the water heater at all.

I'm cheap so i will try to make those exchanger myselft.. Tongue yeah i know. Its the same parallel channels design. But i'm thinking of having at least 5 of them in parallel loops.
 
sr. member
Activity: 369
Merit: 250

Please enlighten me on this simple theory.  Why does the resistance not cause more pressure on one side when the fluid is being pumped through a restriction?  Surely you can explain such a simple theory to someone with a degree in math from an engineering school.

I agree with this post. Simple fluid dynamics.  Fluid flows from high pressure to low pressure.  Or it wouldn't flow at all Smiley
mem
hero member
Activity: 644
Merit: 501
Herp Derp PTY LTD


Hoping you can post a video showing a walk around of the rack.
Love your hose connectors on the front.
legendary
Activity: 1904
Merit: 1002
I have a high pressure pump on my LC rig, and I found that when a tiny leak appeared, I lost the card. I shifted the pump to after the cards, thus creating a negative pressure where the cards were. Now if a leak were to occur, I'd simply be suckin in air, rather than forcing out coolant.

In a close loop, there is no such thing negative or positive pressure. Its a sealed volume.


Once you have a leak it isn't a closed loop. Smiley

Besides, restrict the water flow in your closed loop (such as running it through a water block compared to 1 inch hose), and you can bet your ass you'll have negative and positive pressure on either side of the restriction.

Thats a bad misconception.
Someone clearly dont understand this simple theory of sealed volume.



Please enlighten me on this simple theory.  Why does the resistance not cause more pressure on one side when the fluid is being pumped through a restriction?  Surely you can explain such a simple theory to someone with a degree in math from an engineering school.
legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1000
AH, yours is a sealed system? MY system has the overflow tank, thus there is a positive and negative pressure. Thus if air enters from the suction, it's released in the overflow tank.
legendary
Activity: 1904
Merit: 1002
I have a high pressure pump on my LC rig, and I found that when a tiny leak appeared, I lost the card. I shifted the pump to after the cards, thus creating a negative pressure where the cards were. Now if a leak were to occur, I'd simply be suckin in air, rather than forcing out coolant.

In a close loop, there is no such thing negative or positive pressure. Its a sealed volume.


Once you have a leak it isn't a closed loop. Smiley

Besides, restrict the water flow in your closed loop (such as running it through a water block compared to 1 inch hose), and you can bet your ass you'll have negative and positive pressure on either side of the restriction.
donator
Activity: 588
Merit: 500
Yes, you right. First card is at 20C last at 40C. To lower the temperatures I can increase the cold water debit, but I want to keep the noise down.

Connecting the loops in series would allow higher temps to be dumped into the heat exchager right? The higher delta T the better. But it also means that your rigs run hotter or at least some of them do. Which might create more energy consumption due to the worse switching efficiency of higher temps on GPU.
member
Activity: 85
Merit: 10
Connecting the loops in series would allow higher temps to be dumped into the heat exchager right? The higher delta T the better. But it also means that your rigs run hotter or at least some of them do. Which might create more energy consumption due to the worse switching efficiency of higher temps on GPU.
donator
Activity: 588
Merit: 500
Yeah, the heat was driving me insane last summer.

Hi,
I have a similar setup, with 12 cards (9 5970 and 4 5870) working flowlesly for about 1 year.  The diferrence is that I ran them in series. I'm using a Koolance heat exchanger connected to the cold water line. Will soon add 5 more cards.


Awesome.  First I have heard of anyone else doing this.
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
Hi,
I have a similar setup, with 12 cards (9 5970 and 4 5870) working flowlesly for about 1 year.  The diferrence is that I ran them in series. I'm using a Koolance heat exchanger connected to the cold water line. Will soon add 5 more cards.


Awesome.  First I have heard of anyone else doing this.
donator
Activity: 588
Merit: 500
Hi,
I have a similar setup, with 12 cards (9 5970 and 4 5870) working flowlessly for about 1 year.  The diferrence is that I ran them in series. I'm using a Koolance heat exchanger connected to the cold water line. Will soon add 5 more cards.
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
For high efficiency water heater standing losses are less than 20%.  So if you use x BTUs of energy per day/week/month/year 0.8x is heating up cold water and only 0.2x (or less) is keeping that water hot.

I use about ~$300 per year in hot water so lets assume that is ~$240 toward heating up water, and $60 towards keeping it hot.  Heat exchanger should be able to preheat 60F water to >120F for "free" using the waste heat of the GPU loop.

Sure having a custom built hot water heater with an internal water to water heat exchanger and bypass valve and backup heat source would provide even better efficiency but it also would cost a LOT more, and provide only a marginal increase in savings.

So:
spending $80 on heat exchanger (+ parts &  labor) = recovery 80%-90% of energy costs
vs
spending $1500 on new custom hot water heater (+ parts & a lot more labor = recovery 90% - 100% of energy cost.

Simply put using heat exchanger as a pre-heater is "good enough" and provides a much higher ROI%.  Another way to look at it is every BTU of energy dumped into the cold water line is a BTU the hot water heater doesn't need to expend.  "Free" BTUs vs paid BTUs.


Regarding pressure & flow.  Flat plate exchangers they can handle much greater pressure than home water systems.  They are often used in industrial cooling applications.  Those brazetek models have burst rating of 400 psi.  They make them in all sizes able to handle 10gpm up to 100gpm+ at various pressure losses. 
member
Activity: 85
Merit: 10
these plate heat exchangers sound like a good plan in theory. A couple of questions rises though. Are they capable of handling the water pressure in your cold water line and do they have enough flow? ...okay you said you could put a few in but still. You only run hot water like 0.1% of a day, double or triple that if you got a wife. So during that time you could save money. My point being that you would actually have to ditch that water boiler all together and build a custom water boiler that constantly circulates the boiler water through your heat exchanger to have any kind of hope to save money. Your water boiler is still going to keep that water heated during that 99.9% of the day Wink

House heating during winter times would yield a lot better ROI IMHO.

Oh and another thing I thought about. What is the temp that your pump can take(if you are considering moving it to the other side)? What will it do to its life span? I'd say the water coming from your 24 GPU rig will be burning hot. Your tubes will melt Wink
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
I completely understand what you're saying. I assumed the hot loop would actually get colder than the preheater side at night (thus cooling more volume = more energy). Are you planning to have the radiator outside?

Yeah the radiator will be outside but my goal is to maximize the amount of energy "harvested" for heating water so the loop is

GPU (heat source)   ---> water2water exchanger (preheater) -----> radiator (outside) ----> coolant back to GPUs.

Quote
Btw, if you're doing this, are you gonna build the exchanger? I figure it would be similar with the exchanger using in a TEC chilled watercooling rig (pressure loss is huge tho)

I will be using flat plate heat exchanger.
You can reduce pressure loss by using more plates.

http://www.brazetek.com/brazed-plate-heat-exchangers

legendary
Activity: 1988
Merit: 1012
Beyond Imagination
I have a strong feel to drop that radiator into a lake during summer  Grin
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
In a closed up, that wont work well at all.

A simple solution is to have a by pass valve.

I would even use manual by pass valve : use both radiator and exchanger during the day, and only use radiator over night.

Why wouldn't it work well?  I have already tested it. 

Cold side has 60F flowing @ 2 gpm.  Hot side has 140F water flowing @ 10 gpm.  More than enough Delta T.

Remember this is a hot water PRE-heater  The cold side has cold inlet water.  The hotside transfers heat to the water BEFORE it goes into hot water heater tank.  IF water isn't flowing there is no heat transfer.

Not sure what by pass valve and only using radiator over night would accomplish.

 

The by pass valve was to decrease the water volume. As your preheater line stands still, it hold excess heat that would transfer back to your watercooling loop having your radiator works harder.

During the day, not much of the problem. Obviously the best solution is to have a controlled by pass vale to bring the most efficiency.


I get what you are saying now but remember heat only flows from hotter side to cooler side.

The cold water line will never be hotter than the hot loop (loop carrying GPU waste heat).  At worst it will be the same temp (Delta T = 0) and there will be no heat flow. 

So water is flowing on cold water inlet to hot water heater heat will be transfered from hot loop to cold water raising its temp (and saving me energy).  When hot water is shut off, the water in line will reach equilibrium with hot loop and heat transfer stops.
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
P.s. Snag some pix of the innards.

Will do.  Don't one to pull the existing rigs out of the rack but I will be building/converting rig #4 this weekend.  Will snap some shots.
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
I have a high pressure pump on my LC rig, and I found that when a tiny leak appeared, I lost the card. I shifted the pump to after the cards, thus creating a negative pressure where the cards were. Now if a leak were to occur, I'd simply be suckin in air, rather than forcing out coolant.

In a close loop, there is no such thing negative or positive pressure. Its a sealed volume.


Once you have a leak it isn't a closed loop. Smiley
legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1000
P.s. Snag some pix of the innards.
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