so what do they mean by extreme low temperatures ? I run my machines in the unheated garage all year long and i never saw the boards look anything like this
and we it gets cold up here around -2 - 10 degrees in range from November to February.
Topic: [ANN] Spondoolies-Tech - carrier grade, data center ready mining rigs - page 99. (Read 1260226 times)
April 08, 2015, 10:50:45 AM
April 08, 2015, 09:33:47 AM
Guys, not trying to say that my SP20E should be under warranty. I understand that corrosion/rust is the problem and it's ALL MY FAULT.
As for the service. Barbara has been epic as well as the Technician been in touch with me with the simple test we made at home.
At the end, I can either have my machine back for 200$ us or 700$ for a brand new.
We all know option 2 is not really an option.
That is what I find bad about my experience.
As for the quality of your product. I have nothing to say wrong about it.
EDIT: BTW my unit has still 6 ASIC over 8 working fine ... 1 dead and 1 failing.
As for the service. Barbara has been epic as well as the Technician been in touch with me with the simple test we made at home.
At the end, I can either have my machine back for 200$ us or 700$ for a brand new.
We all know option 2 is not really an option.
That is what I find bad about my experience.
As for the quality of your product. I have nothing to say wrong about it.
EDIT: BTW my unit has still 6 ASIC over 8 working fine ... 1 dead and 1 failing.
April 08, 2015, 09:15:16 AM
Hi HerbPean,
We're very sorry to hear you are unhappy with the service you are getting.
The unit at hand has experienced massive corrosion as can be seen in the images below:
These are just a few examples, there's extensive rust and corrosion damage across the boards. This damage can only be caused by exposure to either extreme low temperatures, very high humidity, or both.
The unit has been damaged so badly it can only be fixed by replacing the boards.
We take pride of the quality of our units and service yet even our units have their limit, just like any other electronic device.
Our customer service has RMA several units as I'm sure the forum members can verify, however we cannot cover damages that are caused by improper maintenance.
Our team will continue to work with you as best they can to help you out and will be happy to continue doing so in the future.
Regards,
Gadi
The electronics plate must be covered with a protective lacquer coating.
I've fixed hundred of the new LG electronics that were damaged in sea water. Usually only needed replacing electrolytic capacitors.
That was five years ago, and many of them are working today.
April 08, 2015, 08:14:11 AM
Well thatshould shut him up, hard to bitch about service and over react whent hey come back at you quickly with proof.
Sorry point goes to spondoolie for this one.
Hi HerbPean,
We're very sorry to hear you are unhappy with the service you are getting.
The unit at hand has experienced massive corrosion as can be seen in the images below:
These are just a few examples, there's extensive rust and corrosion damage across the boards. This damage can only be caused by exposure to either extreme low temperatures, very high humidity, or both.
The unit has been damaged so badly it can only be fixed by replacing the boards.
We take pride of the quality of our units and service yet even our units have their limit, just like any other electronic device.
Our customer service has RMA several units as I'm sure the forum members can verify, however we cannot cover damages that are caused by improper maintenance.
Our team will continue to work with you as best they can to help you out and will be happy to continue doing so in the future.
Regards,
Gadi
Sorry point goes to spondoolie for this one.
Soooo here my experience with the RMA.
First, if you don't run your machine in a perfect condition (Not like me cracking a window so the intake got fresh air), you might want to think 2 time before sending your machine back. BTW, my other machine was next to this one and it's still run rock solid. (1654gh) So I guess that was a bit of bad luck ...
So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. Both ASIC 0 and 4 on each blade (which are the first one next to intake) are in bad shape.
Asking 200$ (105$ shipping and 95$ for the diagnose) for the exact same machine.
Asking 250$ per board to replace them plus the 200$ us.
Sooooo next time you run one of those close to a windows. You should keep it home I guess. Open it yourself, have a look or find a electronic specialist to have a look. It will save you time and you machine.
If I knew, I would simply disable the Asic and keep like this ...
but now for 200$ us ?
Not even sure it worth to get it back ...
First, if you don't run your machine in a perfect condition (Not like me cracking a window so the intake got fresh air), you might want to think 2 time before sending your machine back. BTW, my other machine was next to this one and it's still run rock solid. (1654gh) So I guess that was a bit of bad luck ...
So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. Both ASIC 0 and 4 on each blade (which are the first one next to intake) are in bad shape.
Asking 200$ (105$ shipping and 95$ for the diagnose) for the exact same machine.
Asking 250$ per board to replace them plus the 200$ us.
Sooooo next time you run one of those close to a windows. You should keep it home I guess. Open it yourself, have a look or find a electronic specialist to have a look. It will save you time and you machine.
If I knew, I would simply disable the Asic and keep like this ...
but now for 200$ us ?
Not even sure it worth to get it back ...
Hi HerbPean,
We're very sorry to hear you are unhappy with the service you are getting.
The unit at hand has experienced massive corrosion as can be seen in the images below:
These are just a few examples, there's extensive rust and corrosion damage across the boards. This damage can only be caused by exposure to either extreme low temperatures, very high humidity, or both.
The unit has been damaged so badly it can only be fixed by replacing the boards.
We take pride of the quality of our units and service yet even our units have their limit, just like any other electronic device.
Our customer service has RMA several units as I'm sure the forum members can verify, however we cannot cover damages that are caused by improper maintenance.
Our team will continue to work with you as best they can to help you out and will be happy to continue doing so in the future.
Regards,
Gadi
April 08, 2015, 08:08:39 AM
Funny how my S1's that have been sitting in my garage for over 1+ years show no corrosion with temps going between -40 and +40. I wonder what my SP10 looks like inside, however it has been humming (screaming) away since new with no issues other than the noise it makes.
April 08, 2015, 07:59:31 AM
These are just a few examples, there's extensive rust and corrosion damage across the boards. This damage can only be caused by exposure to either extreme low temperatures, very high humidity, or both.
That's some pretty extreme corrosion, its almost impressive. Is the first picture on the intake side?
April 08, 2015, 04:41:09 AM
Soooo here my experience with the RMA.
First, if you don't run your machine in a perfect condition (Not like me cracking a window so the intake got fresh air), you might want to think 2 time before sending your machine back. BTW, my other machine was next to this one and it's still run rock solid. (1654gh) So I guess that was a bit of bad luck ...
So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. Both ASIC 0 and 4 on each blade (which are the first one next to intake) are in bad shape.
Asking 200$ (105$ shipping and 95$ for the diagnose) for the exact same machine.
Asking 250$ per board to replace them plus the 200$ us.
Sooooo next time you run one of those close to a windows. You should keep it home I guess. Open it yourself, have a look or find a electronic specialist to have a look. It will save you time and you machine.
If I knew, I would simply disable the Asic and keep like this ...
but now for 200$ us ?
Not even sure it worth to get it back ...
First, if you don't run your machine in a perfect condition (Not like me cracking a window so the intake got fresh air), you might want to think 2 time before sending your machine back. BTW, my other machine was next to this one and it's still run rock solid. (1654gh) So I guess that was a bit of bad luck ...
So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. Both ASIC 0 and 4 on each blade (which are the first one next to intake) are in bad shape.
Asking 200$ (105$ shipping and 95$ for the diagnose) for the exact same machine.
Asking 250$ per board to replace them plus the 200$ us.
Sooooo next time you run one of those close to a windows. You should keep it home I guess. Open it yourself, have a look or find a electronic specialist to have a look. It will save you time and you machine.
If I knew, I would simply disable the Asic and keep like this ...
but now for 200$ us ?
Not even sure it worth to get it back ...
Hi HerbPean,
We're very sorry to hear you are unhappy with the service you are getting.
The unit at hand has experienced massive corrosion as can be seen in the images below:
These are just a few examples, there's extensive rust and corrosion damage across the boards. This damage can only be caused by exposure to either extreme low temperatures, very high humidity, or both.
The unit has been damaged so badly it can only be fixed by replacing the boards.
We take pride of the quality of our units and service yet even our units have their limit, just like any other electronic device.
Our customer service has RMA several units as I'm sure the forum members can verify, however we cannot cover damages that are caused by improper maintenance.
Our team will continue to work with you as best they can to help you out and will be happy to continue doing so in the future.
Regards,
Gadi
April 08, 2015, 12:40:38 AM
Wow.
https://www.cryptocoinsnews.com/andreas-antonopoulos-leaves-bitcoin-foundation-complete-lack-transparency/
http://www.scribd.com/doc/261085080/BTCF-Strategic-Proposal
April 07, 2015, 07:43:43 PM
Soooo here my experience with the RMA.
First, if you don't run your machine in a perfect condition (Not like me cracking a window so the intake got fresh air), you might want to think 2 time before sending your machine back. BTW, my other machine was next to this one and it's still run rock solid. (1654gh) So I guess that was a bit of bad luck ...
So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. Both ASIC 0 and 4 on each blade (which are the first one next to intake) are in bad shape.
Asking 200$ (105$ shipping and 95$ for the diagnose) for the exact same machine.
Asking 250$ per board to replace them plus the 200$ us.
Sooooo next time you run one of those close to a windows. You should keep it home I guess. Open it yourself, have a look or find a electronic specialist to have a look. It will save you time and you machine.
If I knew, I would simply disable the Asic and keep like this ...
but now for 200$ us ?
Not even sure it worth to get it back ...
First, if you don't run your machine in a perfect condition (Not like me cracking a window so the intake got fresh air), you might want to think 2 time before sending your machine back. BTW, my other machine was next to this one and it's still run rock solid. (1654gh) So I guess that was a bit of bad luck ...
So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. Both ASIC 0 and 4 on each blade (which are the first one next to intake) are in bad shape.
Asking 200$ (105$ shipping and 95$ for the diagnose) for the exact same machine.
Asking 250$ per board to replace them plus the 200$ us.
Sooooo next time you run one of those close to a windows. You should keep it home I guess. Open it yourself, have a look or find a electronic specialist to have a look. It will save you time and you machine.
If I knew, I would simply disable the Asic and keep like this ...
but now for 200$ us ?
Not even sure it worth to get it back ...
I am only happy that at least one can now understand , how the "good" company will become to KNC.
Soooo here my experience with the RMA.
.... So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. .......
.... So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. .......
April 07, 2015, 04:29:37 PM
close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor.
sounds like moisture, temperature variance, dew point... combine that with electronics and u got bad bad stuff!!
April 07, 2015, 10:05:34 AM
Soooo here my experience with the RMA.
First, if you don't run your machine in a perfect condition (Not like me cracking a window so the intake got fresh air), you might want to think 2 time before sending your machine back. BTW, my other machine was next to this one and it's still run rock solid. (1654gh) So I guess that was a bit of bad luck ...
So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. Both ASIC 0 and 4 on each blade (which are the first one next to intake) are in bad shape.
Asking 200$ (105$ shipping and 95$ for the diagnose) for the exact same machine.
Asking 250$ per board to replace them plus the 200$ us.
Sooooo next time you run one of those close to a windows. You should keep it home I guess. Open it yourself, have a look or find a electronic specialist to have a look. It will save you time and you machine.
If I knew, I would simply disable the Asic and keep like this ...
but now for 200$ us ?
Not even sure it worth to get it back ...
First, if you don't run your machine in a perfect condition (Not like me cracking a window so the intake got fresh air), you might want to think 2 time before sending your machine back. BTW, my other machine was next to this one and it's still run rock solid. (1654gh) So I guess that was a bit of bad luck ...
So as I was using my SP20E close to a cracked windows and they found some corrosion near a capacitor. Also dust (because I didn't want to open it to void the warranty) and it's not under warranty because of the corrosion. Both ASIC 0 and 4 on each blade (which are the first one next to intake) are in bad shape.
Asking 200$ (105$ shipping and 95$ for the diagnose) for the exact same machine.
Asking 250$ per board to replace them plus the 200$ us.
Sooooo next time you run one of those close to a windows. You should keep it home I guess. Open it yourself, have a look or find a electronic specialist to have a look. It will save you time and you machine.
If I knew, I would simply disable the Asic and keep like this ...
but now for 200$ us ?
Not even sure it worth to get it back ...
April 07, 2015, 05:20:20 AM
Thanks for the instructive links!
Thank you for sharing the link to the lecture. It might be helpful to those that are new to the world of Crypto to place links to the lecture series in the "Beginners & Help" forum.
I've added links to Princeton's series, Khan Academy's section, and WBN's videos (needs pruning) to the wiki's Podcasts & Video section.No more free time for me now!
April 07, 2015, 05:08:40 AM
Thank you for sharing the link to the lecture. It might be helpful to those that are new to the world of Crypto to place links to the lecture series in the "Beginners & Help" forum.
I've added links to Princeton's series, Khan Academy's section, and WBN's videos (needs pruning) to the wiki's Podcasts & Video section. April 07, 2015, 04:20:53 AM
Thank you for sharing the link to the lecture. It might be helpful to those that are new to the world of Crypto to place links to the lecture series in the "Beginners & Help" forum.
Thank You for your time, Spondoolies.
/s/ TuffToad
Louisville, Ky
Thank You for your time, Spondoolies.
/s/ TuffToad
Louisville, Ky
April 07, 2015, 02:40:01 AM
April 06, 2015, 04:26:53 PM
Wow...I thought I had forgot about them. Never saw one that didn't have problems. IIRC, modems were a bite with them. Everything was the lowest grade component you could find that 'might' still work.
April 06, 2015, 08:07:51 AM
I used to do cable modem installs and would cringe when I would see e-machines. There was a 50% chance the PC would die when installing the Ethernet card!
April 06, 2015, 02:19:37 AM
Shopping for SP20E's - Is there a way to determine from the Serial Number that it is really an 'E' and not a plain SP20? All of my SP20E's start with 'FL145xx" so I assume numbers higher than that are 'E's". Does this make sense ? Who has a really early 'E' machine that they could check ?
OT: Does anyone remember 'E-Machine' computers, $299 desktops what a POS
OT: Does anyone remember 'E-Machine' computers, $299 desktops what a POS
I normally use seeing if it says Jackson to tell, but I'm betting your right about a serial number difference.
On the OT:
Yes I do remember those E-Machines. They promised never obsolete... i mean how could a E-machine be obsolete they had AOL on that thing!
Pic of never obsolete sticker they had: http://www.halfdone.com/Personal/Job/Pictures/ScrewUps/Never_obsolete_emachine.jpg (Did not do as image as it was to big and annoying for thread)
I worked pt at a pc shop ..a FEW of these E-machine montherboards folk would put in a tower and try to upgrade etc..most of them you could not do that ...but yeah
to my knowledge .....after a while we would not even work on them...just was not doable...we'd just tell the folks they were shot.....just not in the usual way..emachines were
'shot' from design at birth......
shudder.......
April 06, 2015, 02:12:32 AM
Shopping for SP20E's - Is there a way to determine from the Serial Number that it is really an 'E' and not a plain SP20? All of my SP20E's start with 'FL145xx" so I assume numbers higher than that are 'E's". Does this make sense ? Who has a really early 'E' machine that they could check ?
OT: Does anyone remember 'E-Machine' computers, $299 desktops what a POS
OT: Does anyone remember 'E-Machine' computers, $299 desktops what a POS
I normally use seeing if it says Jackson to tell, but I'm betting your right about a serial number difference.
On the OT:
Yes I do remember those E-Machines. They promised never obsolete... i mean how could a E-machine be obsolete they had AOL on that thing!
Pic of never obsolete sticker they had: http://www.halfdone.com/Personal/Job/Pictures/ScrewUps/Never_obsolete_emachine.jpg (Did not do as image as it was to big and annoying for thread)
Jump to: