Topic: ANTMINER S7 is available at bitmaintech.com with 4.86TH/s, 0.25J/GH - page 374. (Read 528055 times)

 Operating temp refers to the AMBIENT temp, not the temp inside the unit itself.


 If you know what you are doing, and have easy access to the panel, 220V circuits aren't hard to wire.
 IMO best to stick with NEMA 6 type outlets for them though, to avoid accidentially plugging a 110 device into a 220 circuit (I'm not sure but I don't think the NEC allows NEMA 5 type outlets on a 220 circuit even though they technically CAN be made to handle 220).


 Common USA residential and office/most commercial location outlets are generally 110V, but some heavy appliances use 220V - electric clothes driers, most electric water heaters, electric ranges/stoves, a few VERY large window air conditioners - and commercial locations intended for shop/light industrial usage are fairly likely to have at least a few 220V outlets and rarely 3-phase outlets at 220V or 440V.

 Industrial/factory locations will have a much wider range, since they're likely to have VERY high power equipment in use. I don't even want to THINK about trying to run a blow-mold machine (for one example I'm somewhat familier with) on anything less than 440 3-phase power.

Very clever set up. Are blowing cold air from an Air Conditioner through the black pipe at the back or just air from outside?

Nice. similar to how I'm cooling my S5s now.

Its easy as log as you want the 220v plug-in close to your panel (eg mine is in the basement where I have my miners) but once you buy a 220v breaker it will pull 110v off each leg and give you the 220v. Just match the breaker, plug, outlet and wire for the same amps you want. The only other thing is how much your pulling off your panel already and what size service you have coming in to the main breaker.

Thank for clearing that up. So i do mean watercooker. 

off-topic but just to note:
this is a waterheater as typically referred to in the U.S.

They're for heating large volumes of water and keeping it hot for things like showers.  Those tend to be on their own circuit, possibly along with washers, dryers, etc.  In good chunks of Europe, especially NL where beffje is from, heating water for showers, central heating (water radiators) and such tends to be done with gas-powered boilers instead.

In contrast, this is a watercooker as typically referred to in the U.K. and much of Europe:

This is a compact unit - maybe up to a gallon, typically - basically replacing the stove kettle (and in the U.S. more commomly called an electric kettle)  These are often rated around 2kW.  On a 220-240V circuit as is the norm for almost all outlets (save 'shaver' outlets) in Europe, that's not much of an issue.  I've seen scant few of these in my travels around the U.S., most people boiling water on their stoves instead.  I don't know if that's so much a function of the typical outlet ratings (if you check amazon.com vs amazon.co.uk for these devices, you'll see that most of them are around half the wattage, thus would take longer to heat up the water) or one of familiarity; for the same reason that "now you're cooking with gas" is an idiom in the U.S. while in The Netherlands and northwest Germany, electric has only started to be an option presented when buying funished kitchens about 6 years ago (there was a brief induction cooking fad), even though it's a superior cooking platform (cost aside - natural gas here is cheap thanks to European and Russian gas fields).

Semi back on-topic: Anybody wanting to run an S7 most likely would put it in a room along with the other heavy appliances on account of the noise and heat anyway, so that shouldn't be an issue.  Push comes to shove you can always check if the power company can open up a 3-phase outlet in that residential area and work with that.

Since this turned into a power thread, how hard is it to wire a 220v circuit in my house in the US where everything is 120v?

It was a good run of low difficulty increments and even a few drops in difficulty, but it couldn't last forever. 

I am troubleshooting this problem at the moment.

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.12341356

Does anyone have any concerns for keeping the S7 cool enough?  I A/C my units right now and they run anywhere from 48-60 degrees Celsius while the required Operating Temperature for the S7 is 0 °C to 40 °C. 

Depends on wiring and breakers.  I have 120 and 240 and I am in US.   So it just varies.  But I agree keep the PSU's you will love it later on if you buy a miner and already have PSU's.  This has been my feelings from beginning and it's nice to have extra PSU's.

Also anyone notice if people waited till right now they paid less BTC - Price:    1823 USD   ( 7.604 BTC ) .   I hope bitcoin goes up and they do not jack prices guess we will see.

I don't think you will ever need to resell your RM1000. It will olways be usefull for mining. I have 3 of them and a RM650. At the moment running 5 S5's
When my S7 is coming i will use the 1000 and the 650 for it. And 2 RM100 to run 3 S5's

Thank for the info. Didn't kwon you had 110v and 220v in the usa

 I actually have a 220V outlet socket on my breaker box where the prior homeowner used it for a sun tanning bed.  But almost all everyday appliances use 110v including computers so most PSU's used are 110v and this is why I bought RM1000 PSU's for resell later as it would be hard to sell them if 220V.

Yes waterheater i mean. So you do have 220v So why is all this discusion about then? Just change the outlet to 220v.

And the cooling. I think the two jetengines will solve that but still have to work it out.

This is what i did with my S5 but don't think it's going to work for the S7...
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/s5-custom-cooling-updated-1095605

Watercooker I take you mean to be a waterheater? And if its electric they are 220v. Most modern home have 220v coming into the house here in the USA. The 220v is used on electric stoves, water heaters, cloths dryers, hot tubs and water wells. Almost all other sockets in the house are using one leg of the 220v to give 110v. Getting a 220v socket added to the side of the electric panel is not expensive if you have the room for a new breaker.

Your box idea may indeed make thing quite but then you will have a cooling problem.
 

Hi guys,

I see you got some big problems with your power outlet in the usa. But how does that work for you? I'm in Amsterdam and ofcourse we have 230v and 16A outlet. So i can use 3600 watt on one outlet. But i see you guys can only run one S7 on one outlet?? So my question is how many outlets a house have there? And don't you have some household stuff that takes like 2000 watt? (watercooker ore so)

And one more thing..... The sound the S7 is going to make. We all know it is going to be loud.......very loud. But you can just build a box around it and problem solved. Right?

 You are totally incorrect. 117V (nominal) is the RMS value of a common USA electric circuit at the common 15A outlet.

 I HAVE measured them, and looked at them on a scope.




 That's the discrepancy. Where the HELL is a 25% tax comming from?
 And yes, the "can't plug it in RIGHT NOW" issue is part of the reason I don't believe it can RoI with anything but VERY CHEAP to free electric.



 Bit under 5% on that last jump to be picky, but close enough to it to matter.
 It WAS running more like 6% estimated jump before the last day though.
 I suspect the current 7% estimate will also prove to be a bit high - but even another 5% would be bad enough.

What's the 25% tax for??

If you calculated with raw number its around $375 usd per THS and its expensive, for start up. But its not fair so I give you the detail, heres my calc :

Setup :
S7 = 1823
PSU = 155
Shipping = 72.45
SUB TOTAL = 2050.45
TAX 25% = 512.6125
TOTAL = 2563.0625 usd

Tax should be 20% but its bullshit since theres smalls charges for whatever

Cost :
Total kwh a month = 1.210 kw x 720h = 871.2
With elec prices 0.1 per kwh = 87.12 usd a month

Income :
Around 300usd (296 last night and 304.2 this morning)

Nett income = 300-87.12 = let say 223 usd a month

So BEP around 2563 divide by 223 usd = 11.49 month

Even all this "good" number is true IF :

*You plug it right now, not next month
*Without diff raising

 (right now estimated diff 7%++ and maybe more than 50% when I get the S7 since they sold to local faster)

I love bitmain, I have good quality services and products since the legend antminer S1. But this price is too high for home miner. But then again, nobody can compete bitmain right now or even in February 2016 too.

Were the wires secure in the sockets (Most new ones have a little indent wires fit in to make it even tighter)?   Or to long where they touched anything else?

I'm just thinking of my last wiring I did on some I did a few cuts to get to the right size.   If either above were problems could cause bad issues.