Topic: Block Erupter USB Sales [Temporarily Out of Stock] (Read 93214 times)
I hooked up my 28 port Manhattan USB hub last night to my Macgyver'd, err I mean converted, PSU and no magic smoke came out. The thing that's nice is the original wall transformer that came with the Manhattan hub was HELLA hot (thus contributing to my heat load) *BUT* the PSU is WAY cool (and probably more efficient but I'm not exactly sure about that). On another note I was able to get 10 Block Erupter USB sticks running stably. The PSU says it'll do 30 amps on the 5VDC rail (which would imply I could safely power 55 USB sticks with some head room) BUT I believe the hub itself can't handle the current of a fully populated 28 (or more than 10 anyway) ports drawing the load of the Block Erupter USB sticks. In regards to the barrel connector and barrel wiring there is no noticeable heat / warmth / impending magic smoke release after running said configuration for 12 hours. I believe the crux of all of this is that if one needs to push additional current to a powered USB hub one MUST have a larger current source than the one that is currently found wanting.
PrintMule, et. al.,
That's just the point, my dumb a$$ forgot that I had the converted power supply that I use as a bench power supply on various electronics projects such as a design for LED nav lights on my airplane *BUT* I haven't connected it to the Manhattan hub yet. My question was do you see any reason it shouldn't work? It is after all a SUPER stable 5VDC power source .... with a TON more current potential. I'd love to post a pic of me using said converted power supply on a DIY project I did BUT it seems I cannot post pics .... for some reason. In any case, Do you think I'm gonna release the magic electronics smoke by doing this?
That's just the point, my dumb a$$ forgot that I had the converted power supply that I use as a bench power supply on various electronics projects such as a design for LED nav lights on my airplane *BUT* I haven't connected it to the Manhattan hub yet. My question was do you see any reason it shouldn't work? It is after all a SUPER stable 5VDC power source .... with a TON more current potential. I'd love to post a pic of me using said converted power supply on a DIY project I did BUT it seems I cannot post pics .... for some reason. In any case, Do you think I'm gonna release the magic electronics smoke by doing this?
Just make sure the barrel connector you use is rated for the amount of current, otherwise it's likely to melt and/or catch fire. Does the hub have multiple power connectors?
PrintMule, et. al.,
That's just the point, my dumb a$$ forgot that I had the converted power supply that I use as a bench power supply on various electronics projects such as a design for LED nav lights on my airplane *BUT* I haven't connected it to the Manhattan hub yet. My question was do you see any reason it shouldn't work? It is after all a SUPER stable 5VDC power source .... with a TON more current potential. I'd love to post a pic of me using said converted power supply on a DIY project I did BUT it seems I cannot post pics .... for some reason. In any case, Do you think I'm gonna release the magic electronics smoke by doing this?
That's just the point, my dumb a$$ forgot that I had the converted power supply that I use as a bench power supply on various electronics projects such as a design for LED nav lights on my airplane *BUT* I haven't connected it to the Manhattan hub yet. My question was do you see any reason it shouldn't work? It is after all a SUPER stable 5VDC power source .... with a TON more current potential. I'd love to post a pic of me using said converted power supply on a DIY project I did BUT it seems I cannot post pics .... for some reason. In any case, Do you think I'm gonna release the magic electronics smoke by doing this?
Hola folks, I recently bought myself one of those Manhattan 28 port monhubs to run my 20 Block Erupter USBs and I noticed the 5vdc power supply just can’t pump out enough electrons to feed my hungry farm (no sh!t right??). So as I quaffed my adult malted beverage and scratched my head I wondered what I might do to feel better about buying a 28 port hub where I can only run at MAX 8 Block Erupters and in reality, 6 for full stability (off of my Ras PI as the controller). What to do??? What to do??? Oh yea, a while back I converted a salvaged 200watt ATX power supply to a +-12VDC +-5VDC bench top power supply The specs on the power supply say it can push 30 amps out the +5VDC channel. If I do my math correct that seems like I could cut the barrel connector line on my Manhattan hub and connect it to my converted power supply’s 5VDC binding posts and VIOLA … power my 20 USB Block Erupters connected to a single Ras Pi on a *SINGLE* F-ing USB hub (instead of multiple Frankenstein looking USB hubs). You folks see any badness in this idea? If you find yourself interested in doing a PSU conversion here’s a banging article that should lead you to the land of PSU conversion success -> http://www.instructables.com/id/Convert-an-ATX-Power-Supply-Into-a-Regular-DC-Powe/ . Thanks in advance for your reply and/or thoughts.
pics or it didn't happen
Hola folks, I recently bought myself one of those Manhattan 28 port monhubs to run my 20 Block Erupter USBs and I noticed the 5vdc power supply just can’t pump out enough electrons to feed my hungry farm (no sh!t right??). So as I quaffed my adult malted beverage and scratched my head I wondered what I might do to feel better about buying a 28 port hub where I can only run at MAX 8 Block Erupters and in reality, 6 for full stability (off of my Ras PI as the controller). What to do??? What to do??? Oh yea, a while back I converted a salvaged 200watt ATX power supply to a +-12VDC +-5VDC bench top power supply The specs on the power supply say it can push 30 amps out the +5VDC channel. If I do my math correct that seems like I could cut the barrel connector line on my Manhattan hub and connect it to my converted power supply’s 5VDC binding posts and VIOLA … power my 20 USB Block Erupters connected to a single Ras Pi on a *SINGLE* F-ing USB hub (instead of multiple Frankenstein looking USB hubs). You folks see any badness in this idea? If you find yourself interested in doing a PSU conversion here’s a banging article that should lead you to the land of PSU conversion success -> http://www.instructables.com/id/Convert-an-ATX-Power-Supply-Into-a-Regular-DC-Powe/ . Thanks in advance for your reply and/or thoughts.
These are my current stats on my MinePeon rig that's been up for 3.5 days (since the last reboot), with no fans or extra heatsinks. I figure the manufacturer knew what they were doing, and if they needed better cooling they would come with it. My numbers appear to be better than what you guys that are using extra cooling are mentioning:
Device Status
Name ID Temp MH/s Accept Reject Error Utility Last Share
AMU 0 0 335.79 780 2 [3.9%] 38 [0.21%] 1.09 11:56:34
AMU 1 0 335.47 822 4 [2.06%] 21 [0.39%] 1.15 11:57:07
AMU 2 0 335.63 871 5 [1.74%] 36 [0.24%] 1.22 11:57:17
AMU 3 0 335.81 841 1 [8.41%] 39 [0.22%] 1.18 11:56:39
Totals 4 1342.7 3314 12 [2.76%] 134 [0.25%] 4.64
if you want them to last for quite a while, point a slow, quiet $7-10 fan on them. Device Status
Name ID Temp MH/s Accept Reject Error Utility Last Share
AMU 0 0 335.79 780 2 [3.9%] 38 [0.21%] 1.09 11:56:34
AMU 1 0 335.47 822 4 [2.06%] 21 [0.39%] 1.15 11:57:07
AMU 2 0 335.63 871 5 [1.74%] 36 [0.24%] 1.22 11:57:17
AMU 3 0 335.81 841 1 [8.41%] 39 [0.22%] 1.18 11:56:39
Totals 4 1342.7 3314 12 [2.76%] 134 [0.25%] 4.64
These are my current stats on my MinePeon rig that's been up for 3.5 days (since the last reboot), with no fans or extra heatsinks. I figure the manufacturer knew what they were doing, and if they needed better cooling they would come with it. My numbers appear to be better than what you guys that are using extra cooling are mentioning:
Device Status
Name ID Temp MH/s Accept Reject Error Utility Last Share
AMU 0 0 335.79 780 2 [3.9%] 38 [0.21%] 1.09 11:56:34
AMU 1 0 335.47 822 4 [2.06%] 21 [0.39%] 1.15 11:57:07
AMU 2 0 335.63 871 5 [1.74%] 36 [0.24%] 1.22 11:57:17
AMU 3 0 335.81 841 1 [8.41%] 39 [0.22%] 1.18 11:56:39
Totals 4 1342.7 3314 12 [2.76%] 134 [0.25%] 4.64
Device Status
Name ID Temp MH/s Accept Reject Error Utility Last Share
AMU 0 0 335.79 780 2 [3.9%] 38 [0.21%] 1.09 11:56:34
AMU 1 0 335.47 822 4 [2.06%] 21 [0.39%] 1.15 11:57:07
AMU 2 0 335.63 871 5 [1.74%] 36 [0.24%] 1.22 11:57:17
AMU 3 0 335.81 841 1 [8.41%] 39 [0.22%] 1.18 11:56:39
Totals 4 1342.7 3314 12 [2.76%] 134 [0.25%] 4.64
Is there somewhere with more info on these sticks just as how to assess if they are heat damaged
I would imagine heat damage will cause one of 2 things:
1) reduced hash rate. These run very precisely (ive got 335 Mhash and 334.9 Mhash respectively), and heat damage to the asic chip would result in fewer (if any) hashes.
2) increased error rate: much more rejected shares or hardware errors.
I find with a small heatsink to add slight cooling bonus, my HW errors sits around 1.3%. Without any cooling, and the 2 devices horizontal above eachother and creep up to 1.5-2.3% error rate. this alone makes a little bit of forced cooling a bonus for hardware lifespan and ROI
thought i would throw some more info on top of my prior post. I have sold (at profit!) one of my two devices, which results in the lone unit having better airflow, no longer a tigh-squeezed device directly above, and a second small heatsink added. With this change, the device's hash rate has seemingly crept from 335.0 Mhash/s --> 335.4 Mhash/s and the error rate has dropped to less than 1%
some gain may come from CGMiner controlling half as many devices, but it would seem that lower temperatures are the primary cause. I'll try to throw in an update once there is a greater sample count if the HW errors settle to a constant %
Is there somewhere with more info on these sticks just as how to assess if they are heat damaged
+1
I would imagine heat damage will cause one of 2 things:
1) reduced hash rate. These run very precisely (ive got 335 Mhash and 334.9 Mhash respectively), and heat damage to the asic chip would result in fewer (if any) hashes.
2) increased error rate: much more rejected shares or hardware errors.
I find with a small heatsink to add slight cooling bonus, my HW errors sits around 1.3%. Without any cooling, and the 2 devices horizontal above eachother and creep up to 1.5-2.3% error rate. this alone makes a little bit of forced cooling a bonus for hardware lifespan and ROI
Thanks for sharing the experience of this.
Who designed the Eruptor? Don't they have some kind of page or tool for querying the device?
AFAIK the USB Eruptor is very basic - USB-Serial interface -> ASIC. No diagnostic output, no temp sensor, no firmware. I can see header pins on the board though
Is there somewhere with more info on these sticks just as how to assess if they are heat damaged
+1
I would imagine heat damage will cause one of 2 things:
1) reduced hash rate. These run very precisely (ive got 335 Mhash and 334.9 Mhash respectively), and heat damage to the asic chip would result in fewer (if any) hashes.
2) increased error rate: much more rejected shares or hardware errors.
I find with a small heatsink to add slight cooling bonus, my HW errors sits around 1.3%. Without any cooling, and the 2 devices horizontal above eachother and creep up to 1.5-2.3% error rate. this alone makes a little bit of forced cooling a bonus for hardware lifespan and ROI
Is there somewhere with more info on these sticks just as how to assess if they are heat damaged
+1
I'm currently running 20 with just fans. I feel heat sinks are overkill.
Fans are probably overkill as well. I run mine with just the heatsinks that were already attached to them, and they work just fine. I'm just careful if I ever need to handle them.
yea, no kidding... i'm currently running fifteen without fan using stock heatsink without issue. but man do i not touch them.
It's a temporary location their in, usually i do have fans on them. Pair of 120mm case fans.
Is there somewhere with more info on these sticks just as how to assess if they are heat damaged, how they work, how the serial/usb interface works and so on?
I'm currently running 20 with just fans. I feel heat sinks are overkill.
Fans are probably overkill as well. I run mine with just the heatsinks that were already attached to them, and they work just fine. I'm just careful if I ever need to handle them.
yea, no kidding... i'm currently running fifteen without fan using stock heatsink without issue. but man do i not touch them.
I'm currently running 20 with just fans. I feel heat sinks are overkill.
Fans are probably overkill as well. I run mine with just the heatsinks that were already attached to them, and they work just fine. I'm just careful if I ever need to handle them.
yea, no kidding... i'm currently running fifteen without fan using stock heatsink without issue. but man do i not touch them.
I'm currently running 20 with just fans. I feel heat sinks are overkill.
Fans are probably overkill as well. I run mine with just the heatsinks that were already attached to them, and they work just fine. I'm just careful if I ever need to handle them.
Jeez, these things really make some heat! I'm going out ASAP to grab some small heatsinks and/or better thermal tape. These dont get warm to the touch, they get HOT. removing them or handling them within 5min of unplugging is still enough to singe your fingers
An Artic USB fan works fine for cooliing these. you can touch them.
i have a hub, fan, and heatsinks on order, but expect at least a week for delivery (I dont want/plan to throw down $20 at a local store for only to BEs!)
for the time, ive put some small chopped up gpu heatsinks on them, but its anything but professional a job. Either way, they draw away the heat and improve surface area a bit
I'm currently running 20 with just fans. I feel heat sinks are overkill.
Jeez, these things really make some heat! I'm going out ASAP to grab some small heatsinks and/or better thermal tape. These dont get warm to the touch, they get HOT. removing them or handling them within 5min of unplugging is still enough to singe your fingers
An Artic USB fan works fine for cooliing these. you can touch them.
i have a hub, fan, and heatsinks on order, but expect at least a week for delivery (I dont want/plan to throw down $20 at a local store for only to BEs!)
for the time, ive put some small chopped up gpu heatsinks on them, but its anything but professional a job. Either way, they draw away the heat and improve surface area a bit
Jeez, these things really make some heat! I'm going out ASAP to grab some small heatsinks and/or better thermal tape. These dont get warm to the touch, they get HOT. removing them or handling them within 5min of unplugging is still enough to singe your fingers
An Artic USB fan works fine for cooliing these. you can touch them.
Jeez, these things really make some heat! I'm going out ASAP to grab some small heatsinks and/or better thermal tape. These dont get warm to the touch, they get HOT. removing them or handling them within 5min of unplugging is still enough to singe your fingers
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