Topic: GekkoScience has a new stickminer that does 300+GH - page 6. (Read 22568 times)
I am 100% in favor of using something called "Potato" to run Gekko miners. No idea if it works, but potatoes are great.
Any one use a Libre Computer Board AML-S905X-CC (Le Potato) 2GB 64-bit to run their Compac F? It states it has 100 Mb Fast Ethernet would that make any difference? Just seen different alternative to the Raspberry Pi and seeing if any ones used a cheaper mini computer?
As long as it can run Linux (which it can, btw), it should be fine to be used as controller. While the specs will probably do, it really depends on how many Compac F sticks you intend to run. Be aware that the CPU is not at all as powerful as the one from the RPI4!
Any one use a Libre Computer Board AML-S905X-CC (Le Potato) 2GB 64-bit to run their Compac F? It states it has 100 Mb Fast Ethernet would that make any difference? Just seen different alternative to the Raspberry Pi and seeing if any ones used a cheaper mini computer?
Dear Kano,
After conducting several tests, I discovered that installing Raspbian with Jessie(obsolete) on a Raspberry Pi 3+B does not work anymore for CGminer. I tried again with a Raspberry Pi Zero W running Raspbian (not Jessie) and successfully installed CGMiner. As soon as I receive the ANTMINER U2 V1.2(probably tomorrow from ebay), I will attempt to connect it to the cksolo pool. Thank you for your support
^^ The real question is how much current can the hub provide per-port. At those speeds each one is pulling at least 2.8a and possibly just over 3.1a.
If the Eyeboot holds to usb charging specs each port will be limited to a maximum of 3.1a. Yes the entire Eyeboot hub can provide 10a but that has to be distributed across many ports.
The original Gekkp hub had 3-banks of 2 ports with each bank fed by a 6a regulator - if just powering 1 in each bank it will happily supply that full 6a to it. The connectors may melt but that's what you get. The new hubs use a single 25a regulator feeding each port through 3.5a resetable PTC e-fuses. Yes that means each port is limited to under 3.5a but that more than enough for reasonable OC with minimal danger of melting the port connectors
If the Eyeboot holds to usb charging specs each port will be limited to a maximum of 3.1a. Yes the entire Eyeboot hub can provide 10a but that has to be distributed across many ports.
The original Gekkp hub had 3-banks of 2 ports with each bank fed by a 6a regulator - if just powering 1 in each bank it will happily supply that full 6a to it. The connectors may melt but that's what you get. The new hubs use a single 25a regulator feeding each port through 3.5a resetable PTC e-fuses. Yes that means each port is limited to under 3.5a but that more than enough for reasonable OC with minimal danger of melting the port connectors
Thanks for this. Made me realize, I was running both sticks side by side on the Eyeboot. One was consistently underpowered and cutting out, staggering them in the hub solved this issue. Now running both at 550Mhz flawlessly. I'm thinking three at this speed might be possible.
^^ The real question is how much current can the hub provide per-port. At those speeds each one is pulling at least 2.8a and possibly just over 3.1a.
If the Eyeboot holds to usb charging specs each port will be limited to a maximum of 3.1a. Yes the entire Eyeboot hub can provide 10a but that has to be distributed across many ports.
The original Gekkp hub had 3-banks of 2 ports with each bank fed by a 6a regulator - if just powering 1 in each bank it will happily supply that full 6a to it. The connectors may melt but that's what you get. The new hubs use a single 25a regulator feeding each port through 3.5a resetable PTC e-fuses. Yes that means each port is limited to under 3.5a but that is more than enough for reasonable OC with minimal danger of melting the port connectors
If the Eyeboot holds to usb charging specs each port will be limited to a maximum of 3.1a. Yes the entire Eyeboot hub can provide 10a but that has to be distributed across many ports.
The original Gekkp hub had 3-banks of 2 ports with each bank fed by a 6a regulator - if just powering 1 in each bank it will happily supply that full 6a to it. The connectors may melt but that's what you get. The new hubs use a single 25a regulator feeding each port through 3.5a resetable PTC e-fuses. Yes that means each port is limited to under 3.5a but that is more than enough for reasonable OC with minimal danger of melting the port connectors
A quick question on power supplies and hubs:
I'm currently running two Compac F on a Eyeboot 10-port 120-watt, 10A hub. Both sticks are overclocked at 540mHz, Vcore running around 1.51v. Hashrates average 350Ghs on one stick and 315Ghs. Trying to push much past this and I seem to run into power issues. I'm trying to see if anyone else has run the Eyeboot hub, and if I will be able to push any more sticks through this hub? Maybe dialing back the overclocking?
With that being said I see the Gekko hub being advertised as such to be able to run a full set of sticks even when overclocked. Is this true? Is there a setup out there currently that can currently run 8 sticks on a single hub?
I'm currently running two Compac F on a Eyeboot 10-port 120-watt, 10A hub. Both sticks are overclocked at 540mHz, Vcore running around 1.51v. Hashrates average 350Ghs on one stick and 315Ghs. Trying to push much past this and I seem to run into power issues. I'm trying to see if anyone else has run the Eyeboot hub, and if I will be able to push any more sticks through this hub? Maybe dialing back the overclocking?
With that being said I see the Gekko hub being advertised as such to be able to run a full set of sticks even when overclocked. Is this true? Is there a setup out there currently that can currently run 8 sticks on a single hub?
I will try again by follow your link , thx 
Also, it's the same for all Gekko miners:
https://kano.is/gekko.php
https://kano.is/gekko.php
Dear all,
I'm trying to install Cgminer in my raspberryPi 4 rasbian, but when I run the long CFLAGS command (before step 2 to understand) I get a series of errors like ./autogen.sh not found autoreconf: not found etc, I've tried several times but it doesn't work, what can it be? old things that dirty the batch? What do you recommend?
Are you using the right version from Kano? https://github.com/kanoi/cgminer I'm trying to install Cgminer in my raspberryPi 4 rasbian, but when I run the long CFLAGS command (before step 2 to understand) I get a series of errors like ./autogen.sh not found autoreconf: not found etc, I've tried several times but it doesn't work, what can it be? old things that dirty the batch? What do you recommend?
Using the old version on -ck's site will not work.
Dear all,
I'm trying to install Cgminer in my raspberryPi 4 rasbian, but when I run the long CFLAGS command (before step 2 to understand) I get a series of errors like ./autogen.sh not found autoreconf: not found etc, I've tried several times but it doesn't work, what can it be? old things that dirty the batch? What do you recommend?
I'm trying to install Cgminer in my raspberryPi 4 rasbian, but when I run the long CFLAGS command (before step 2 to understand) I get a series of errors like ./autogen.sh not found autoreconf: not found etc, I've tried several times but it doesn't work, what can it be? old things that dirty the batch? What do you recommend?
Supplemental cooler for Gekkoscience base USB Hub
I've been working on a way to cool the Gekkoscience USB Miners. There are several heat-sink mounted coolers available, but they focus on cooling the heatsink.
The backside of the USB miner and the hub itself can get pretty warm at higher clock frequencies. 419 Mining has an existing base hub cooler design available, but I wanted to improve upon that.
So I designed this jig that I'll call 'IglooHat'. It is made with 4x 3D printed legs that attach directly to a 120mm case fan using 35mm M4 screws. The fan runs off of the 2-pin fan header on the side of USB hub, so does not take up any of the USB ports.
The legs are designed to clip-on to the side of the Gekkoscience USB hub, to make sure the jig remains attached to the hub in case it is accidentally bumped.
The design is open-sourced so you can 3-D print your own.
We do have these up for sale, if you don't want to 'roll your own' Igloohat.
Community feedback is welcome!
PS: This does not provide enough cooling to be a replacement for heatsink-mounted coolers. This is focused on cooling the backside of USB miners and the hub itself. In my experiments, this is only useful when you are trying to overclock >550 mhz or with >4 compac f sticks on the hub.
-Aviral
I've been working on a way to cool the Gekkoscience USB Miners. There are several heat-sink mounted coolers available, but they focus on cooling the heatsink.
The backside of the USB miner and the hub itself can get pretty warm at higher clock frequencies. 419 Mining has an existing base hub cooler design available, but I wanted to improve upon that.
So I designed this jig that I'll call 'IglooHat'. It is made with 4x 3D printed legs that attach directly to a 120mm case fan using 35mm M4 screws. The fan runs off of the 2-pin fan header on the side of USB hub, so does not take up any of the USB ports.
The legs are designed to clip-on to the side of the Gekkoscience USB hub, to make sure the jig remains attached to the hub in case it is accidentally bumped.
The design is open-sourced so you can 3-D print your own.
We do have these up for sale, if you don't want to 'roll your own' Igloohat.
Community feedback is welcome!
PS: This does not provide enough cooling to be a replacement for heatsink-mounted coolers. This is focused on cooling the backside of USB miners and the hub itself. In my experiments, this is only useful when you are trying to overclock >550 mhz or with >4 compac f sticks on the hub.
-Aviral
Voltage range is approximately 1.4 to 1.6; stock setting is 1.48
As a side note to this, does when always need to increase voltage when increasing clock speed?
AND the power source on USB is good enough - e.g. like a Gekko hub
Voltage range is approximately 1.4 to 1.6; stock setting is 1.48
As a side note to this, does when always need to increase voltage when increasing clock speed?
Voltage range is approximately 1.4 to 1.6; stock setting is 1.48
Hi all,
Just curious if anyone knows the following:
1. Does adjusting the vcore pot on the bottom right of the device directly impact the voltage when measured at the chip itself (behind the heatsink)?
2. When measuring voltage, what is the max that can be achieved? I've measured at the back of the chip (behind the heatsink) and I'm running around 1.5v on average.
Thanks for any insight!
Just curious if anyone knows the following:
1. Does adjusting the vcore pot on the bottom right of the device directly impact the voltage when measured at the chip itself (behind the heatsink)?
2. When measuring voltage, what is the max that can be achieved? I've measured at the back of the chip (behind the heatsink) and I'm running around 1.5v on average.
Thanks for any insight!
not sure what's going on, but I reassembled my Compac F and now it's working just fine again. Must have needed the weekend off. Thanks guys.
Unless there's been physical damage such that parts have been removed, the most likely issue is the chip - either the chip itself, or solder points underneath.
Bah, that's what I was afraid of.. I'll get the chip pasted back up and see what happens.
Thanks for the info!
Unless there's been physical damage such that parts have been removed, the most likely issue is the chip - either the chip itself, or solder points underneath.
Try unplugging the stick for 30 seconds and then plug it back in. Do you have a USB tester?
No tester and I had tried unplugging for a moment hoping it might reset it then plugging it in to a different port and still nothing.
https://kano.is/gekko.php#trf
I'm having a similar problem and looking for advice.
I ran through Kano's support page mentioned above with no success. I was running the Gekko V2 hub which is working fine for my other sticks.
My Compac F seemed fine until it wasn't. I wasn't doing anything too crazy with it, and have the igloo style cooling fan which keeps it pretty chilly.
Now it shows up in cgminer with '0 chip found' or cycles through zombie mode until it's turned off. Both red and white lights appear if that helps.
I've been messing around trying to diagnose it. I do have a USB tester, and it's not really pulling any current through. I just pulled the heat sink to take a look at the chip and see if it heated up at all when plugged in. It doesn't have any visual signs of being popped, and didn't really feel like it was getting warm to the touch. With the heatsink off it would spike at about 1 amp (.4 with the sink on, no noticeable increase in temp) and did begin to heat up. I pulled the plug before it really got going.
Is there a common fail point with these other than the main chip? I saw a regulator mentioned before, is that a user replaceable component? I'm decent with a solder station, but SHOULD NOT be trusted to reblob chips.
Thanks.
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