Hey. Thanks for the guides, great work.
Wondering if it is possible to remotely access SP-10 dashboard easily? If not, do you know of a solution to set this up for SP-10 and other miners that is secure? Thank you.
Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive SpondooliesTech SP10 Setup [HD] - page 2. (Read 29038 times)
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I'm finding it very involved to install a 240v outlet in my garage. It might involve digging up my backyard to put in new larger diameter conduit for 8 gauge wires and a sub panel.
I may not have the path to go from SP10 to SP30.
I may not have the path to go from SP10 to SP30.
I have looked at these and the amp rating is 16AMP.
How many of the SP10s have you been able to safely run on one of these?
How many of the SP10s have you been able to safely run on one of these?
At 16A don't use more than 2.
I have looked at these and the amp rating is 16AMP.
How many of the SP10s have you been able to safely run on one of these?
Thanks for the info. I couldn't find NEMA LP6 on Google. Do you mean NEMA L6-20 or L6-30?
Also, where do I find power cables that has the NEMA L6 end and a standard PC end that goes into the PSU?
PDUs we use:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-PDUH20HVL6-L6-20P-Horizontal/dp/B004P3X4ZQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1402595055&sr=8-6&keywords=6-20+pdu
Cables we Use:
http://www.amazon.com/TRIPP-P005-12N-14AWG-Power-12-Inch/dp/B006ZB30VE/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1402595085&sr=1-6&keywords=C14+to+C13+14+gauge
How many of the SP10s have you been able to safely run on one of these?
I have to ask... maybe someone in the US may know... what does a plug for a 220v in the USA look like? And where can I buy the associated computer cable?
Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
It is fine. Depending on the wiring you will either be at 208v or 240v. My 240 line is reported as 245-250 in the SP10 interface. For 240v you use a breaker that bridges 2 120v lines for 240v. Nema LP6 is the plug that most PDU's use, that is the type of outlet you will want installed.Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
Thanks for the info. I couldn't find NEMA LP6 on Google. Do you mean NEMA L6-20 or L6-30?
Also, where do I find power cables that has the NEMA L6 end and a standard PC end that goes into the PSU?
PDUs we use:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-PDUH20HVL6-L6-20P-Horizontal/dp/B004P3X4ZQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1402595055&sr=8-6&keywords=6-20+pdu
Cables we Use:
http://www.amazon.com/TRIPP-P005-12N-14AWG-Power-12-Inch/dp/B006ZB30VE/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1402595085&sr=1-6&keywords=C14+to+C13+14+gauge
I have to ask... maybe someone in the US may know... what does a plug for a 220v in the USA look like? And where can I buy the associated computer cable?
Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
It is fine. Depending on the wiring you will either be at 208v or 240v. My 240 line is reported as 245-250 in the SP10 interface. For 240v you use a breaker that bridges 2 120v lines for 240v. Nema LP6 is the plug that most PDU's use, that is the type of outlet you will want installed.Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
Thanks for the info. I couldn't find NEMA LP6 on Google. Do you mean NEMA L6-20 or L6-30?
Also, where do I find power cables that has the NEMA L6 end and a standard PC end that goes into the PSU?
PDUs we use:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-PDUH20HVL6-L6-20P-Horizontal/dp/B004P3X4ZQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1402595055&sr=8-6&keywords=6-20+pdu
Cables we Use:
http://www.amazon.com/TRIPP-P005-12N-14AWG-Power-12-Inch/dp/B006ZB30VE/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1402595085&sr=1-6&keywords=C14+to+C13+14+gauge
I have to ask... maybe someone in the US may know... what does a plug for a 220v in the USA look like? And where can I buy the associated computer cable?
Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
It is fine. Depending on the wiring you will either be at 208v or 240v. My 240 line is reported as 245-250 in the SP10 interface. For 240v you use a breaker that bridges 2 120v lines for 240v. Nema LP6 is the plug that most PDU's use, that is the type of outlet you will want installed.Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
Thanks for the info. I couldn't find NEMA LP6 on Google. Do you mean NEMA L6-20 or L6-30?
Also, where do I find power cables that has the NEMA L6 end and a standard PC end that goes into the PSU?
I have to ask... maybe someone in the US may know... what does a plug for a 220v in the USA look like? And where can I buy the associated computer cable?
Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
It is fine. Depending on the wiring you will either be at 208v or 240v. My 240 line is reported as 245-250 in the SP10 interface. For 240v you use a breaker that bridges 2 120v lines for 240v. Nema LP6 is the plug that most PDU's use, that is the type of outlet you will want installed. Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
I have to ask... maybe someone in the US may know... what does a plug for a 220v in the USA look like? And where can I buy the associated computer cable?
Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
Since we're in the US, 220v is still probably at 60 Hz. Will the PSU be able to deal with 220v at 60 Hz, since normally 220v is for countries at 50 Hz?
These power supplies are beasts. They seem to be able to do so much. I am still surprised at how well they work on 110v. The auto sensing of what your line is able to send is great.
I was also wondering about that. I will talk to our HW guys.
Ok, I added an option to override the limitation (after long discussion) in next FW, 1.4.2. Make sure you use cables matching your amperage (I think it can go up to 14A if you have around 110V). Just create a file called /etc/mg_ignore_110_fcc in the miner and it will ignore the limitation. BTW, the PSU supports up to 14.5 Amper.
Zvisha,
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
I was also wondering about that. I will talk to our HW guys.
Ok, I added an option to override the limitation (after long discussion) in next FW, 1.4.2. Make sure you use cables matching your amperage (I think it can go up to 14A if you have around 110V). Just create a file called /etc/mg_ignore_110_fcc in the miner and it will ignore the limitation. BTW, the PSU supports up to 14.5 Amper.
how loud is LOUD?
are we talking the volume of an S2? 4-6 S1 units? or is this vaccuum-cleaner loud?
I brought the SP10 to the DC and it is the loudest unit there. (I'm running turbo fans.) are we talking the volume of an S2? 4-6 S1 units? or is this vaccuum-cleaner loud?
Zvisha,
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
I was also wondering about that. I will talk to our HW guys.
Ok, I added an option to override the limitation (after long discussion) in next FW, 1.4.2. Make sure you use cables matching your amperage (I think it can go up to 14A if you have around 110V). Just create a file called /etc/mg_ignore_110_fcc in the miner and it will ignore the limitation. BTW, the PSU supports up to 14.5 Amper.
IMO the SP10 and SP30 units are built more with datacenter than spare bedroom in mind
Designed use is not the same as what consumers choose to use products for.
208/240V is more efficient and puts a lot less strain on the power supply - the sondoolies machine is a long-term investment/installation.
Any source for that? I have always seen efficiency gains as very small as well.
Waste heat generated components = I2R
208/240V is more efficient and puts a lot less strain on the power supply - the sondoolies machine is a long-term investment/installation.
Any source for that? I have always seen efficiency gains as very small as well.
No ASIC is a long-term investment by most traditional investing standards.
I have an SP30 order and believe it will be almost worthless by Xmas.
Zvisha,
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
not many though.
IMO the SP10 and SP30 units are built more with datacenter than spare bedroom in mind. They are loud and create a lot of heat, in fact the 1200W draw can be more than what the majority of PC power cables are rated for (10A). If you are able to operate these at home, it may be worth the work required to either install a new 240V circuit for your equipment or to even simply swap an existing 120V circuit's (with only one dedicated outlet) breaker and outlet for a 240V one. Wiring can remain the same in most cases.
208/240V is more efficient and puts a lot less strain on the power supply - the sondoolies machine is a long-term investment/installation.
Zvisha,
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
I was also wondering about that. I will talk to our HW guys.
Zvisha,
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
There are plenty of devices that draw > 1200W at the wall on 110V. Teapots and heaters to name a few. I suspect the difference is that these items aren't running 24/7/365.
1320W at the wall should be fine for any 110V home with a standard (15A * 110V * 15A * .8 (safety margin) = 1320W
More and more newer homes are actually coming with 20A circuits...
Does anyone know if the hashrate of the SP30 is less than the advertised hashrate on 110v like the SP10? If so, by how much?
It will be less, but its hard to know by how himuch. I would guess between 7% and 20%, hopefully closer to 7% like sp10
The FCC requires 1200W (I think) limitation at the wall for 110V. There is no such limitation for 220V, and manufacturer's limits (unlike FCC) not needed for compliance. The PSU has it's thermal and OC shutdown. In SP10 we pull 1350W in 220V and ~1200W in 110V. I know that in 110V SP10 can pull more because I tested it, but all our FW versions have to be FCC compliant. But then it is open source, so users can compile miner_gate_arm with whatever they want as long as they understand it will void their warranty. We plan to stay open-source for SP30 too.
Does anyone know if the hashrate of the SP30 is less than the advertised hashrate on 110v like the SP10? If so, by how much?
It will be less, but its hard to know by how himuch. I would guess between 7% and 20%, hopefully closer to 7% like sp10
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