PLEASE HELP!
Every now and then my miner will stop finding shares. Why does this happen? The green light will stay on for extended period of times and sometime the red light stays on. I feel as though this is a driver issue. The miner has work being sent to it but never finds/accepts any shares and my pool reports hash rate of 0. If someone could help me this, I would be eternally grateful. Thanks in advance.
Topic: [GUIDE] GridSeed 5-Chip USB, Blade & Black Miner Support/Tuning - page 63. (Read 308807 times)
March 23, 2014, 09:33:33 PM
March 23, 2014, 08:11:45 PM
getting 361.7kh/s cgminer 850 clock ltc mode only
That's about what I get, but im worried about the HW errors. I do get a lot of them, about 1-2K over 24 hours at that speed.When I go down to 800, I only get about 10-20 in a 24 hour period.
Do the HW errors cause any permanent or cumulative damage to the pod?
Had the same problem with my GS5's.
Adjust your comm port FIFO buffer settings.
First try setting Transmit buffer down to 14 - that might do it.
If it doesn't completely handle it,
reset Receive buffer to 8 also.
Then you should be good to go.
After you adjust the FIFO's, disable and enable the port so the settings will take.
Works great for me on my Win 7 laptop via 13 port hub to 6 GS5's.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014
March 23, 2014, 07:39:21 PM
getting 361.7kh/s cgminer 850 clock ltc mode only
That's about what I get, but im worried about the HW errors. I do get a lot of them, about 1-2K over 24 hours at that speed.When I go down to 800, I only get about 10-20 in a 24 hour period.
Do the HW errors cause any permanent or cumulative damage to the pod?
March 23, 2014, 06:18:35 PM
getting 361.7kh/s cgminer 850 clock ltc mode only
March 23, 2014, 03:52:41 PM
Hello.
I tested the results of my mods overnight and, so far so good!
I decided a couple days ago to go ahead and try modding one of my pods.
I made the first mod which is to jump the two resistors as shown with the yellow stripes. Done deal.
I got a bit better performance out of it @ 900MHz and 950Mhz but still pulled a red nonce every once in a while and at times they would fill the window (cpuminer) for a short birst then go away.
I thought "how strange, what is causing this? Could it be a timing issue?"
Bingo!
The guy who did the mods and had his GS5 running at between 1000 and 1100MHz stable but with a few red nonce's gave me the tip...
I thought, let me try the pencil mod.
So I tried lowering the PLL voltage first to around 1.01V. Seemed to stabilize running at 950MHz so well that I only saw a red nonce every great once in a while over an hour or so of operation where before it was about 3 times as much.
Okay, so changing the resistor was next.
I changed out the 36K for a 38K 5% resistor.
BINGO!
Now I have stable 'no red nonce' operation at 1000MHz!... It's been running stably for over an hour now with ZERO red nonce's! Perfect!
I'm going to let it run overnight and see how things are in the morning. I have a good feeling this is the trick I was looking for.
Thanks to the author of this mod!
I'll save further congrats for later on if I see stable operation over time.
Oh and one other thing. I decided to go ahead and test my theory that lowering the voltage of the cooling fan to 5V was not a good idea due to the usual problems associated with magnetic DC motors.
I guess the drive electronics of DC fan motors has come a long way since I last farted around with them years ago.
I'm driving it with 5V now without any problems so far. Runs just fast enough to keep air moving at a good enough rate to keep the unit cool to the touch! I mean below 90*F. More like 79^ to 81* currently.
And man, it is quiet! Music to my ears! The pod was cooking at 115 to 120*F at 1000MHz which is understandable. That's crankin, for this little bugger!
Not running hotter or pulling more current like I thought it would, at all.
Sorry for scaring some of you guys out of trying it but I guess I get to make up for it by risking burning up my fan etc.
I'll let you know how that went overnight too.
I will also attempt to run it off of the 5V USB power next and see if it screws anything up comm wise or power wise.
It's pulling less than 75mA running. Pulls 140mA start up for a quick second before it calms back down.
I think it would be easy enough for most folks who end up doing this mod, provided mine works out okay, will be able to compensate for the additional load it puts on USB power. But it's a short cut method I really don't recommend in general. One should use a voltage regulator to drop from 12V to 5V. There is more headroom on that rail too in most cases.
Today I'm going to monitor the performance of my 1000MHz hasher for stability and expected increase in pool results as well as connect the fan to the 5V rail of the USB port and see if it causes any problems.
I don't think it will but if worse comes to worse, I'll use a 7805 voltage regulator to drop to supply the 5V from the 12V rail.
Onward!
Peace
Wolfey2014
I tested the results of my mods overnight and, so far so good!
I decided a couple days ago to go ahead and try modding one of my pods.
I made the first mod which is to jump the two resistors as shown with the yellow stripes. Done deal.
I got a bit better performance out of it @ 900MHz and 950Mhz but still pulled a red nonce every once in a while and at times they would fill the window (cpuminer) for a short birst then go away.
I thought "how strange, what is causing this? Could it be a timing issue?"
Bingo!
The guy who did the mods and had his GS5 running at between 1000 and 1100MHz stable but with a few red nonce's gave me the tip...
I thought, let me try the pencil mod.
So I tried lowering the PLL voltage first to around 1.01V. Seemed to stabilize running at 950MHz so well that I only saw a red nonce every great once in a while over an hour or so of operation where before it was about 3 times as much.
Okay, so changing the resistor was next.
I changed out the 36K for a 38K 5% resistor.
BINGO!
Now I have stable 'no red nonce' operation at 1000MHz!... It's been running stably for over an hour now with ZERO red nonce's! Perfect!
I'm going to let it run overnight and see how things are in the morning. I have a good feeling this is the trick I was looking for.
Thanks to the author of this mod!
I'll save further congrats for later on if I see stable operation over time.
Oh and one other thing. I decided to go ahead and test my theory that lowering the voltage of the cooling fan to 5V was not a good idea due to the usual problems associated with magnetic DC motors.
I guess the drive electronics of DC fan motors has come a long way since I last farted around with them years ago.
I'm driving it with 5V now without any problems so far. Runs just fast enough to keep air moving at a good enough rate to keep the unit cool to the touch! I mean below 90*F. More like 79^ to 81* currently.
And man, it is quiet! Music to my ears! The pod was cooking at 115 to 120*F at 1000MHz which is understandable. That's crankin, for this little bugger!
Not running hotter or pulling more current like I thought it would, at all.
Sorry for scaring some of you guys out of trying it but I guess I get to make up for it by risking burning up my fan etc.
I'll let you know how that went overnight too.
I will also attempt to run it off of the 5V USB power next and see if it screws anything up comm wise or power wise.
It's pulling less than 75mA running. Pulls 140mA start up for a quick second before it calms back down.
I think it would be easy enough for most folks who end up doing this mod, provided mine works out okay, will be able to compensate for the additional load it puts on USB power. But it's a short cut method I really don't recommend in general. One should use a voltage regulator to drop from 12V to 5V. There is more headroom on that rail too in most cases.
Today I'm going to monitor the performance of my 1000MHz hasher for stability and expected increase in pool results as well as connect the fan to the 5V rail of the USB port and see if it causes any problems.
I don't think it will but if worse comes to worse, I'll use a 7805 voltage regulator to drop to supply the 5V from the 12V rail.
Onward!
Peace
Wolfey2014
I'm pondering about the voltage regulator...since the 7805 is a bit outdated and there's little space I'm considering the LM2940 in a SOT223 package. It have the same 7805 pinout but a lower voltage drop ( 500mV ) and it's more efficient. The TO-263 seems perfect to fit in the original fan pins on the pcb ( 2.3mm pin to pin )
March 23, 2014, 01:37:11 PM
Anyone getting full speed out of the grids on windows with BFGminer?
Currently running 9 of them:
3.4 / 3.41 / 2.09 <-- this is the number matching the pool hash....
Thanks for any help
Depends also on the pool. Which pool gives You 2.09?Currently running 9 of them:
3.4 / 3.41 / 2.09 <-- this is the number matching the pool hash....
Thanks for any help
I'm on multipool.us and it is normal for me loosing some share power because of coin switching:
Code:
bfgminer version 3.10.0 - Started: [2014-03-22 11:57:20] - [ 1 day 07:27:53]
[M]anage devices [P]ool management [S]ettings [D]isplay options [H]elp [Q]uit
Connected to eu.multipool.us diff 0 with stratum as user blablabla...
Block: ...c1494174 #152812 Diff:1.48k (10.60Gh/s) Started: [19:24:45]
ST:0 F:100 NB:1632 AS:0 BW:[ 25/ 14 B/s] E:0.02 I:52.30mBTC/hr BS:83
4 63.0C | 1.54/ 1.86/ 1.85Mh/s | A:12472 R:183+54(none) HW:122/none
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GSD 0: | 361.7/353.5/341.6kh/s | A: 2306 R: 34+ 4(none) HW: 64/none
GSD 1: | 361.7/353.5/355.3kh/s | A: 2399 R: 36+ 6(none) HW: 58/none
DMU 0: | 69.4/ 68.4/ 64.9kh/s | A: 438 R: 7+13(none) HW: 0/none
DMU 1: | 69.4/ 68.5/ 69.8kh/s | A: 471 R: 4+11(none) HW: 0/none
DMU 2: | 69.4/ 68.5/ 64.9kh/s | A: 438 R: 4+ 7(none) HW: 0/none
OCL 0: 63.0C | 573.4/562.5/578.8kh/s | A: 3908 R: 56+ 3(none) HW: 0/none
OCL 1: 50.0C | 389.0/382.8/372.1kh/s | A: 2512 R: 42+10(none) HW: 0/none
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[2014-03-23 19:23:14] Accepted 007f23de OCL 0 pool 0 Diff 0/0
[2014-03-23 19:23:22] Accepted 003e7f8e OCL 0 pool 0 Diff 0/0
[2014-03-23 19:23:25] Accepted 00338c29 GSD 0 pool 0 Diff 0/0
[2014-03-23 19:23:29] Accepted 00a107f2 GSD 0 pool 0 Diff 0/0
[2014-03-23 19:23:34] Network difficulty changed to 1.29k ( 9.23Gh/s)
[2014-03-23 19:23:34] Stratum from pool 0 requested work update
[2014-03-23 19:23:34] Rejected 00685c60 OCL 0 pool 0 Diff 0/0 (STALE SHARE (Pr
evious Job '3
[2014-03-23 19:23:51] Network difficulty changed to 1.31k ( 9.39Gh/s)
[2014-03-23 19:23:51] Stratum from pool 0 detected new block
[2014-03-23 19:23:55] Accepted 00b0f0eb GSD 0 pool 0 Diff 0/0
[2014-03-23 19:24:04] Accepted 00778026 OCL 0 pool 0 Diff 0/0
[2014-03-23 19:24:28] Accepted 00a5c0fc OCL 1 pool 0 Diff 0/0
[2014-03-23 19:24:38] Network difficulty changed to 1.43k (10.24Gh/s)
[2014-03-23 19:24:38] Stratum from pool 0 detected new block
[2014-03-23 19:24:41] Accepted 004c2a00 OCL 0 pool 0 Diff 0/0
[2014-03-23 19:24:45] Network difficulty changed to 1.48k (10.60Gh/s)
[2014-03-23 19:24:45] Stratum from pool 0 detected new block
[2014-03-23 19:25:02] Accepted 00584077 GSD 0 pool 0 Diff 0/0
[2014-03-23 19:25:04] Stratum connection to pool 0 interrupted
BTW non-moded (yet) gridseeds pushed to 850 frequency...
....and yeah, I allways loose at least two Dualminers during weekend because I'm not near them to replug. I should consider using scrypt someone prepared for "soft replugging" Gridseeds. Actually, Dualminers are crying for something like that, not Gridseeds.
March 23, 2014, 12:26:49 PM
side view on the rack ... 20 gridseeds, 1 raspberry, 2 usb hubs ... everything powered by the atx psu ..
March 23, 2014, 09:52:55 AM
And a stupid question - what do red LED's mean? (green are power, correct?)
Hello everyone!
This data will definitely help with Tuning your GridSeed 5 chip USB miner/s.
I just received this data from GRIDSEED via HASHRA.com today. 3-13-14
I'm paraphrasing for general clarity.
I've also added some of my own observations based on direct experience with my own GS5's.
GRIDSEED GS3355 5 Chip USB Miner - Flashing RED and GREEN LED's - What They Actually Mean.
All timings are either approximate or exact, if not darn close!
Your clock speed may vary slightly. Wink
GREEN flashing LED means - 5V is ON / drive electronics are powered up.
GREEN LED is ON for 1 second, OFF for 1 second.
RED flashing LED - ON 3 seconds / OFF 3 seconds / Flickers:
Miner Is Hashing / Processing Data.
RED flashing LED - ON 60 to 70 seconds - OFF 60 to 70 seconds:
Miner is Not Hashing / Processing Data.
If Fan is OFF and RED LED IS STUCK ON or OFF i.e. not flashing:
12V is OFF - 5V is ON.
FAN is ON but no GREEN OR RED LED's are flashing ON or OFF:
12V ON - 5V OFF.
When first powering the miner on, the best sequence I have found is:
First, turn 12V Power ON
Second, turn 5V USB Power ON
This will enable self test to occur in correct sequence. (I'm guessing)
If you do not use correct power up sequence, various hash / no hash / no shares reported type problems may occur. (I'm guessing here too)
A few seconds after 5V USB Power is turned on, the GREEN LED's will start
to flash ON/OFF as written above.
After 12V power is turned ON, in about 60 to 70 seconds,
the RED LED's will start to sequence ON/OFF as written above.
Hope this helps!
Wolfey2014
March 23, 2014, 09:27:53 AM
And a stupid question - what do red LED's mean? (green are power, correct?)
March 23, 2014, 09:12:42 AM
Hello.
I tested the results of my mods overnight and, so far so good!
I decided a couple days ago to go ahead and try modding one of my pods.
I made the first mod which is to jump the two resistors as shown with the yellow stripes. Done deal.
I got a bit better performance out of it @ 900MHz and 950Mhz but still pulled a red nonce every once in a while and at times they would fill the window (cpuminer) for a short birst then go away.
I thought "how strange, what is causing this? Could it be a timing issue?"
Bingo!
The guy who did the mods and had his GS5 running at between 1000 and 1100MHz stable but with a few red nonce's gave me the tip...
I thought, let me try the pencil mod.
So I tried lowering the PLL voltage first to around 1.01V. Seemed to stabilize running at 950MHz so well that I only saw a red nonce every great once in a while over an hour or so of operation where before it was about 3 times as much.
Okay, so changing the resistor was next.
I changed out the 36K for a 38K 5% resistor.
BINGO!
Now I have stable 'no red nonce' operation at 1000MHz!... It's been running stably for over an hour now with ZERO red nonce's! Perfect!
I'm going to let it run overnight and see how things are in the morning. I have a good feeling this is the trick I was looking for.
Thanks to the author of this mod!
I'll save further congrats for later on if I see stable operation over time.
Oh and one other thing. I decided to go ahead and test my theory that lowering the voltage of the cooling fan to 5V was not a good idea due to the usual problems associated with magnetic DC motors.
I guess the drive electronics of DC fan motors has come a long way since I last farted around with them years ago.
I'm driving it with 5V now without any problems so far. Runs just fast enough to keep air moving at a good enough rate to keep the unit cool to the touch! I mean below 90*F. More like 79^ to 81* currently.
And man, it is quiet! Music to my ears! The pod was cooking at 115 to 120*F at 1000MHz which is understandable. That's crankin, for this little bugger!
Not running hotter or pulling more current like I thought it would, at all.
Sorry for scaring some of you guys out of trying it but I guess I get to make up for it by risking burning up my fan etc.
I'll let you know how that went overnight too.
I will also attempt to run it off of the 5V USB power next and see if it screws anything up comm wise or power wise.
It's pulling less than 75mA running. Pulls 140mA start up for a quick second before it calms back down.
I think it would be easy enough for most folks who end up doing this mod, provided mine works out okay, will be able to compensate for the additional load it puts on USB power. But it's a short cut method I really don't recommend in general. One should use a voltage regulator to drop from 12V to 5V. There is more headroom on that rail too in most cases.
Today I'm going to monitor the performance of my 1000MHz hasher for stability and expected increase in pool results as well as connect the fan to the 5V rail of the USB port and see if it causes any problems.
I don't think it will but if worse comes to worse, I'll use a 7805 voltage regulator to drop to supply the 5V from the 12V rail.
Onward!
Peace
Wolfey2014
I tested the results of my mods overnight and, so far so good!
I decided a couple days ago to go ahead and try modding one of my pods.
I made the first mod which is to jump the two resistors as shown with the yellow stripes. Done deal.
I got a bit better performance out of it @ 900MHz and 950Mhz but still pulled a red nonce every once in a while and at times they would fill the window (cpuminer) for a short birst then go away.
I thought "how strange, what is causing this? Could it be a timing issue?"
Bingo!
The guy who did the mods and had his GS5 running at between 1000 and 1100MHz stable but with a few red nonce's gave me the tip...
I thought, let me try the pencil mod.
So I tried lowering the PLL voltage first to around 1.01V. Seemed to stabilize running at 950MHz so well that I only saw a red nonce every great once in a while over an hour or so of operation where before it was about 3 times as much.
Okay, so changing the resistor was next.
I changed out the 36K for a 38K 5% resistor.
BINGO!
Now I have stable 'no red nonce' operation at 1000MHz!... It's been running stably for over an hour now with ZERO red nonce's! Perfect!
I'm going to let it run overnight and see how things are in the morning. I have a good feeling this is the trick I was looking for.
Thanks to the author of this mod!
I'll save further congrats for later on if I see stable operation over time.
Oh and one other thing. I decided to go ahead and test my theory that lowering the voltage of the cooling fan to 5V was not a good idea due to the usual problems associated with magnetic DC motors.
I guess the drive electronics of DC fan motors has come a long way since I last farted around with them years ago.
I'm driving it with 5V now without any problems so far. Runs just fast enough to keep air moving at a good enough rate to keep the unit cool to the touch! I mean below 90*F. More like 79^ to 81* currently.
And man, it is quiet! Music to my ears! The pod was cooking at 115 to 120*F at 1000MHz which is understandable. That's crankin, for this little bugger!
Not running hotter or pulling more current like I thought it would, at all.
Sorry for scaring some of you guys out of trying it but I guess I get to make up for it by risking burning up my fan etc.
I'll let you know how that went overnight too.
I will also attempt to run it off of the 5V USB power next and see if it screws anything up comm wise or power wise.
It's pulling less than 75mA running. Pulls 140mA start up for a quick second before it calms back down.
I think it would be easy enough for most folks who end up doing this mod, provided mine works out okay, will be able to compensate for the additional load it puts on USB power. But it's a short cut method I really don't recommend in general. One should use a voltage regulator to drop from 12V to 5V. There is more headroom on that rail too in most cases.
Today I'm going to monitor the performance of my 1000MHz hasher for stability and expected increase in pool results as well as connect the fan to the 5V rail of the USB port and see if it causes any problems.
I don't think it will but if worse comes to worse, I'll use a 7805 voltage regulator to drop to supply the 5V from the 12V rail.
Onward!
Peace
Wolfey2014
March 23, 2014, 08:59:05 AM
Anyone getting full speed out of the grids on windows with BFGminer?
Currently running 9 of them:
3.4 / 3.41 / 2.09 <-- this is the number matching the pool hash....
Thanks for any help
What's your definition of "full speed"?Currently running 9 of them:
3.4 / 3.41 / 2.09 <-- this is the number matching the pool hash....
Thanks for any help
Im running 5 at 850 Mhz on Windows and another 10 at 800 Mhz on Raspberry PI. Ive seen someone get 1000 Mhz in a picture, but had HW errors.
By full speed i mean is anyone actually hashing at 380 per unit....on windows/bfgminer it seems the actual numbers are around 220khs seems to me any sort of overclocking atm slows the process ....i went back to 850 and left it....now at 2.6Mhs for 9 units....
March 23, 2014, 08:46:06 AM
Anyone getting full speed out of the grids on windows with BFGminer?
Currently running 9 of them:
3.4 / 3.41 / 2.09 <-- this is the number matching the pool hash....
Thanks for any help
What's your definition of "full speed"?Currently running 9 of them:
3.4 / 3.41 / 2.09 <-- this is the number matching the pool hash....
Thanks for any help
Im running 5 at 850 Mhz on Windows and another 10 at 800 Mhz on Raspberry PI. Ive seen someone get 1000 Mhz in a picture, but had HW errors.
March 23, 2014, 08:19:34 AM
Anyone getting full speed out of the grids on windows with BFGminer?
Currently running 9 of them:
3.4 / 3.41 / 2.09 <-- this is the number matching the pool hash....
Thanks for any help
Currently running 9 of them:
3.4 / 3.41 / 2.09 <-- this is the number matching the pool hash....
Thanks for any help
March 23, 2014, 03:31:33 AM
Have a question...would it be possible to inline a small power switch to the black fan wire?
I was thinking of inlining this switch on the black fan wire so that I can turn the fan on/off as needed.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9609
Thoughts?
I was thinking of inlining this switch on the black fan wire so that I can turn the fan on/off as needed.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9609
Thoughts?
Yes there's no problem with it, except that you need to safely isolate the switch pins since they will lie near or in contact with the aluminium fins
What about a lump of hot glue on solder points to prevent contact with the heat sink?
Could be an easy fix but keep in mind that hot glue over 45-50°C start to get soft...if the miner reach that temp could melt the glue
March 23, 2014, 03:29:28 AM
So, how exactly do you remove the fan wiring? Did you just cut the wires, or de-solder?
What's the best approach?
What's the best approach?
Obviously it's better to desolder the wire, you can sold back again when you want to use the fans or sell the gridseed.
If you are in hurry you can cut the positive, but instead of leave the two end isolated connect them to a switch
March 23, 2014, 12:57:13 AM
We have 44 running on one pc running Ubuntu currently. Running for a few days with no issues so far.
March 22, 2014, 11:56:46 PM
You running off the PC or Pi?
Would love to get the Pi working but it's unstable...at least for me with 20 miners
March 22, 2014, 09:20:01 PM
So, how exactly do you remove the fan wiring? Did you just cut the wires, or de-solder?
What's the best approach?
What's the best approach?
March 22, 2014, 09:06:44 PM
March 22, 2014, 08:02:49 PM
Does Scripta run on 64-bit architecture?
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