Topic: Mini-Rig from Butterflylabs - page 9. (Read 21155 times)
If you are feeding it direct DC, it's 12v @6A
12V 7A (ish)
Have just ordered a single, and I'm very curious what the direct DC input requirements on this (and the full rig) are.
I'd be very interested in the mini rig, but would prefer a dc-only unit. We are running off the grid, and do not want to invert more power than necessary.
I'd be very interested in the mini rig, but would prefer a dc-only unit. We are running off the grid, and do not want to invert more power than necessary.
Know what you 15A worried guys gonna do ?
Convert your 110v outlet to a 220v by adding a breaker to the neutral and be done with it!
That's a 10min - cost nothing job. As said, we talking 15k$ per box ,,, just call an electrician !
Convert your 110v outlet to a 220v by adding a breaker to the neutral and be done with it!
That's a 10min - cost nothing job. As said, we talking 15k$ per box ,,, just call an electrician !
Sure. Just a few notes:
a) The breakers must have their handles tied together, per code. Easier to just get a dual pole breaker. Few bucks extra.
b) The neutral wire must be clearly marked on both ends to show that it is hot.
c) You must replace the wall outlet with a 240-only receptacle, such as 6-15R or 6-20R. Few more bucks.
1) If the wiring is 14 gauge, you must use no more than a 15 amp dual breaker, and a 6-15R receptacle.
2) If the wiring is 12 gauge, you must use no more than a 20 amp dual breaker, and a 6-20R receptacle.
d) This assumes that the rig supports 240v, which it should if it is using a standard PSU. You may need to chop off the plug end and install a 6-15P or 6-20P plug.
Hope this helps anyone that is planning to be cheap with their infrastructure upgrades.
I"m in for one mini rig,
Know what you 15A worried guys gonna do ?
Convert your 110v outlet to a 220v by adding a breaker to the neutral and be done with it!
That's a 10min - cost nothing job. As said, we talking 15k$ per box ,,, just call an electrician !
Side note : My favorite PSUs are 750w because I can run 4 GPU on them and plug two on one 15A. (convenience)
Know what you 15A worried guys gonna do ?
Convert your 110v outlet to a 220v by adding a breaker to the neutral and be done with it!
That's a 10min - cost nothing job. As said, we talking 15k$ per box ,,, just call an electrician !
Side note : My favorite PSUs are 750w because I can run 4 GPU on them and plug two on one 15A. (convenience)
Really guys? You're going to base your purchase decision on "can I fit 1 or 2 or 3 on a 15/20 amp circuit" ..?? We're talking $15,000 here .. If you have a doubt, bring in an electrician to run a dedicated circuit.
It is about maximum utilization, and efficiency.
It does not matter if you buy only 1 rig. But the larger your scale, the more you should care about these details.
I would rather spend 1 or 2 grands in mining hardware than in installing extra circuits because the BFL designers chose an awkward wattage that prevents me from utilizing my circuits to their maximum capacity.
This exactly. I'm already tired of balancing circuits to maintain 80% utilization. Something that REQUIRED a 20amp circuit would be a downer.
Still don't see why BFL wouldn't have a stepping stone build.. something in the 5-10 GH/s range would be perfect for the market of miners who already own 10-20 GH/s and want to expand to FPGA. But, I suppose this is just me wanting a product tailored to my price range and upgrade path.
Really guys? You're going to base your purchase decision on "can I fit 1 or 2 or 3 on a 15/20 amp circuit" ..?? We're talking $15,000 here .. If you have a doubt, bring in an electrician to run a dedicated circuit.
It is about maximum utilization, and efficiency.
It does not matter if you buy only 1 rig. But the larger your scale, the more you should care about these details.
I would rather spend 1 or 2 grands in mining hardware than in installing extra circuits because the BFL designers chose an awkward wattage that prevents me from utilizing my circuits to their maximum capacity.
Forgot to mention I applaud BFL for coming up with an offering (potentially) to compete price wise with LargeCoin...
I don't know about doing exactly what glasswalker described with a blade server, but I think he had the right idea in it being some type of modular design with a main board and housing. I like the idea of this a lot, but $15k is a little hard for me to swallow right off the bat.
All of the different apartments that I have lived in for the last 10 years (5+) were all 15A 14gauge circuits for receptacles and lighting. The only 20A 12gauge circuits I have come across have been for specialized appliances (i.e. stoves, refrigerators, fake furnaces, etc).
I would also suggest that BFL keep the wattage to fit on 15A circuits for a more mainstream application.
I would also suggest that BFL keep the wattage to fit on 15A circuits for a more mainstream application.
Usually a remodel will have better wiring. New construction by builders = as cheap as they can possibly get without setting fire to the place prior to sale. After sale = who cares!
+1 for cookie cutter boxes, but many custom builders are a little more careful. I've experienced both, and unfortunately many of the inexpensive remodels are 14 with a mixture of knob and tube in some shoddy bungalows. Most of the build to order houses near me are all done up with 12 everywhere. Some (including ours) even have a 400 amp service entrance.
Usually a remodel will have better wiring. New construction by builders = as cheap as they can possibly get without setting fire to the place prior to sale. After sale = who cares!
we had a kitchen fire last month. we are first floor apartment in a two family home. the house is about 100 years old. the kitchen in our apartment was redone approximately 20 years ago. the drywall isn't up yet, and after reading this thread i went and took a look at the wiring.
the wiring that existed prior to the fire, both to my apartment and the wiring traveling to the upstairs residence, as well as the new wiring installed by the contracter doing the repairs, is all 12 gauge.
too small a sample size to draw any conclusions, but there you go.
the wiring that existed prior to the fire, both to my apartment and the wiring traveling to the upstairs residence, as well as the new wiring installed by the contracter doing the repairs, is all 12 gauge.
too small a sample size to draw any conclusions, but there you go.
Really guys? You're going to base your purchase decision on "can I fit 1 or 2 or 3 on a 15/20 amp circuit" ..?? We're talking $15,000 here .. If you have a doubt, bring in an electrician to run a dedicated circuit.
Amen brother...
I have 4 20amp dedicated circuits just waiting
Really guys? You're going to base your purchase decision on "can I fit 1 or 2 or 3 on a 15/20 amp circuit" ..?? We're talking $15,000 here .. If you have a doubt, bring in an electrician to run a dedicated circuit.
I would like to pitch in on the idea for doing a blade server type approach.
Sell a chassis for something like $5K and then have inexpensive blades that can be added over time to increase hashing power. (up to a total price, fully populated of $15K for 25GHash of mining power roughly). This approach will open you up to a much larger market space, and allow people to ease into the investment more smoothly. Large one time investments tend to shatter the growth curve because of the significant cycle time between growth spurts. Solutions allowing constant growth provide a sharper growth curve, and better ROI to owners.
Sell a chassis for something like $5K and then have inexpensive blades that can be added over time to increase hashing power. (up to a total price, fully populated of $15K for 25GHash of mining power roughly). This approach will open you up to a much larger market space, and allow people to ease into the investment more smoothly. Large one time investments tend to shatter the growth curve because of the significant cycle time between growth spurts. Solutions allowing constant growth provide a sharper growth curve, and better ROI to owners.
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Again most outlet circuits in the US are on 20A breakers with 12 AWG romex (yellow). Its easy enuf to check and see if its a 14 AWG romex (white), 15A breaker circuit, but usually those are lighting circuits, not outlets. If its not 20A breaker with 12 AWG, then don't put a 5-20 outlet on it..
This is just silly. I see very few 20A installs in existing structures and even new structures, it's somewhat rare to see anything better than 14ga 15a. Builders are some of the cheapest mother fuckers on earth and are scum right next to car salesmen and bankers. They aren't going to spring for 12ga wire unless absolutely necessary. 15a, 14a is the "norm." Even if you specify 12ga, 20a, unless you watch most builders like a hawk or do it yourself, you're likely to end up with 14ga wiring.
I used to build custom houses (when there was a boom), lately its been additions and remodels. I use yellow 12ga for everything. I see more 20A outlet circuits then 15A, but hey i'm in California, most of our houses were built fairly recently, back east it might be a different story. Knob and tube is probably still the standard back there eh?
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Again most outlet circuits in the US are on 20A breakers with 12 AWG romex (yellow). Its easy enuf to check and see if its a 14 AWG romex (white), 15A breaker circuit, but usually those are lighting circuits, not outlets. If its not 20A breaker with 12 AWG, then don't put a 5-20 outlet on it..
This is just silly. I see very few 20A installs in existing structures and even new structures, it's somewhat rare to see anything better than 14ga 15a. Builders are some of the cheapest mother fuckers on earth and are scum right next to car salesmen and bankers. They aren't going to spring for 12ga wire unless absolutely necessary. 15a, 14a is the "norm."
Exactly. 12A IS becoming more common in new construction mainly due to having more outlets in a room more desirable. Still it is far from universal even in new construction and there are 100 million or so existing residences some with wiring 80 years old. So I stand behind the statement that "saying just change the outlet is reckless".
It is more like:
a) Check wiring is 12 gauge (replace if necessary). If wiring is older than ~1970s it may not comply to any color code. Remove section of wiring insulation to check gauge manually.
b) Ensure no other significant continual load is on the circuit (find all outlets on that circuit to verify)
c) Check breaker panel has a 20A breaker (replace if necessary)
d) Check existing outlets and ensure they don't have a current limit. Many NEMA 5-15A outlets are not rated for 20A passthrough. Rewire outlets using pigtails to bypass or replace all outlets on circuit if necessary
e)
f) Go to home depot and buy that $3 outlet and replace.
f is the easy part but code compliance requires a through e. Hardly universal or user friendly. If BFL wanted consumer to do that they could simply keep it at 2.5 KW and require a dedicated circuit. 1440W (1.5KW is close enough) is universally compatible.
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Again most outlet circuits in the US are on 20A breakers with 12 AWG romex (yellow). Its easy enuf to check and see if its a 14 AWG romex (white), 15A breaker circuit, but usually those are lighting circuits, not outlets. If its not 20A breaker with 12 AWG, then don't put a 5-20 outlet on it..
This is just silly. I see very few 20A installs in existing structures and even new structures, it's somewhat rare to see anything better than 14ga 15a. Builders are some of the cheapest mother fuckers on earth and are scum right next to car salesmen and bankers. They aren't going to spring for 12ga wire unless absolutely necessary. 15a, 14a is the "norm." Even if you specify 12ga, 20a, unless you watch most builders like a hawk or do it yourself, you're likely to end up with 14ga wiring.
BFL-Engineer, I would recommend to size the mini-rig either for 960W, or 1920W.
This way, either 1 or 2 could be placed on a standard 120V-20A circuit, while drawing no more than 80% of its rated capacity per the National Electric Code (1920W).
This way, either 1 or 2 could be placed on a standard 120V-20A circuit, while drawing no more than 80% of its rated capacity per the National Electric Code (1920W).
While 120V@20A circuits may very well be 'standard', they are far from common in North American households. What is both standard and common is 120V@15A (1800W peak, 1440W continuous).
Targeting 120V@20A circuits would severely limit the potential market for BFL. Clearly not a good business decision.
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