A shot in the dark - is the flakely board one of the ones with the 10k resistors in place of caps? If so could be that the remaining caps are starting to fail from excessive ripple currents.
Buck inductor temps are something I've never been comfortable with for various reasons. They are actually rated to run pretty bloody hot with max ratings often 140C or more. At least they are one of the few things that heat does not really affect until insulation failure. If you can keep a finger on it without branding yourself then it's good. I'd worry more about the solder connections to them failing from temp cycling and the heat getting to nearby components.
Yea, those seem to be the largest source of heat, once the cards stop functioning. May be the coils insulation failing. Those too, it seems, are not real flush-mounted to the board. There are exposed heat-pads under them, on the heat-sink side. However, the varnish actually raises the heat-sink from direct contact to the metal at all. (Looks like the heat-sinks should be machined to match the pads, but they are not. They are essentially using the heat-sink compound to "fill the gap" between the exposed heat-pad and the heat-sink, which is not the function of thermal grease. Thermal grease is designed to fill the microscopic gaps, not gaps of zero-contact. Which is where heat-pads are designed to function.)
Might also be why the heat-sinks are not showing as being needed, and the smaller ones seem to be over-heated. There is just not enough actual thermal-transfer to the larger heat-sink directly. Due to that large gap. (0.01mm is a large gap to thermal transfer, when there is 0 direct metal-metal contact. Not sure how thick the varnish layer on the PCB is. I would use aluminum foil shims, but then I need two applications of thermal grease. xD Plus, the grease tends to corrode foil. The silver/tin on the metal plates is already corroded. That should have been gold.)
I may just rip off the heat-sink on this one, make a pencil rubbing of the back of the board, and transfer that pattern to the heat-sink. Then grind it down by hand, to match the pads, for direct contact. Though, thermal-pads would be much better than all this extended effort.
One unit has a full sheet of thermal-pad across the whole backing. Not sure how wise that is... the cold spots will act as risers, not allowing the thermal pad to compress. While the hot parts will have an air-gap as the heated material thins-out. Though it will stop any possible shorting of the through-holes rubbing against the expanding and contracting heat-sink. (Which is something I also fear may be happening to the mystery working/failing card.)
Card completely failed today at 1:30 PM... Knocked the whole machine down to 0 GHs... Same as the one that had previously shorted. So now I am back to 385GHs. 1/3 of 1.2THs. (Still not sure why they sent me this. This is not what I asked for. They didn't ever reply back, about testing them, or send any testing information. So I assume they sent this as an attempt to fill my order. I got sort-of a mix of what I asked for, if a complete unit could not be sent, and what they were offering, but neither of any, but more and less. xD. I am so confused.)
This one was not missing any parts on it. All four of the CAPs and Resistors were where they should be, on each chip. There was also no screws-shorts on the cards.
Did notice another thing that bugs me a little, about the cards... The PCB sticks-out beyond the heat-sinks, by a fraction of a MM... This bugs me because the frame mounts firmly to the cards by the heat-sink, which has a metal-edge pressing hard against the PCB itself. This too stresses the PCB, and I am not 100% sure that the inner layers may or may not have any stray "copper traces" near the edges, which are in direct contact with the metal frame. Mostly, my concern is the compression of the PCB, as the aluminum expands and contracts from the heat. (This also being a concern due to the solid screw mounting which is firmly holding the non-expanding fiberglass PCB to the expanding aluminum heat-sink. Which is also being crushed between the mounting frame.)
Having the heat-sink in two separate halves would alleviate some of the expansion, if there was an adequate gap between them, and if the cards were not suspended by the heat-sink, through a firm mounting. However, that would require a complete redesign. The PCB would not sustain the stresses of the heavy heat-sink, in a setup like that.