Topic: [Review] Avalon 6 Miner - Winter Mining - Notlist3d - Also FAQ and Help - page 10. (Read 79375 times)

The blue adapter may be under powered.

I had an issue yesterday so I got a powered Usb hub then used a y cable from my compac stick  collection.

So two usb hubs are sending power to the rasp pi.

That little micro usb has more power to go into the usb.

I then got a second y cable plugged two ends into the rasp pi.
Put a usb out to the little blue stick and boom! All is well.

I suggest you try to beef up power to the little blue stick and to the rasp pi.

Did you try plugging into different USB ports in your RPi? Log seems to indicate some sort of trouble between RPi and the module (AUC?), or between RPi's USB ports and the module. It might be worth plugging into other USB ports on your RPi and see if RPi can resume communicating with the module.

Assuming the the "USB Dongle" is the AUC2 as mentioned in the Avalon documentation, there is mention of 3 LED's on the AUC2. I am assuming that they don't count the PWR LED as one of the three. They mention Red, Green, and Blue. I can observe a patern on those lights that looks like it roughly matches up with the failures in the "System Log" and "Kernel Log". I stared at it for a couple of minutes, and there is the pattern:

Red/Green both OFF . Blue is ON.
.....
Wait about 20-30 seconds
......
Red OFF. Blue and Green both ON for about 2 seconds
......
About 2 seconds later
....
Red OFF, Blue and Green turn OFF.
----
Red and Green remain OFF. Blue turns ON
----
Repeat back at the top of this sequence.

This looks to me like some kind of retry loop, either driven by the RPi, or possibly done by whatever hardware is on the AUC2. This might be why there is firmware mentioned for the AUC2. I also used my USB power meter, and the voltage coming out of the RPi USB port is spot on at 5.00V. The current is very low at about .01A when only Blue light is on, and it jumps to .05A for while and then falls back to .01A. This all looks like a very light load on the RPi USB port (i.e. no obvious overloads). I never saw the Red LED turn on or even blink when I watched it.

I'll probably try "ohming out" the 4-pin cable next, but I am getting pretty tired tonight. Right now I am pretty convinced that I'll need to get this AUC2 communication issue ironed out before I can really worry about anything else (i.e. the actual hashing unit).

When I apply the +12V to the hashing unit, the fan spins up and down a couple of time, until it finally settles down at a very low hum. I don't see any Red lights on the hashing unit, and all looks good there so far.  This just further leads me to think I have a breakdown somewhere between the RPi and the actual Avalon6. Even after I turn off the +12V and the fan spins down, the light flashing sequence, and the System Log messages continue. Never seen the Red light.

If anyone can correct or embellish my understanding of what I am seeing, please do so.

I am just stuck on actually getting hashing with my Avalon6. I seem to be getting into the Pi just fine, and I can see green lights on the hashing boards, and a Blue light (and a Green) on the USB dongle. I am pretty sure the USB dongle is a USB --> I2c converter. In any case. the Pi see kano.is just fine, but I never get any readings from the hashing unit itself. No temp, No Fan speed, no volts, Nothing. It really isn't seeing anything out there.

The following messages are in the system log, and look worrisome:

Sun Feb 28 01:54:13 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2416.368430] usb 1-1.2: USB disconnect, device number 87
Sun Feb 28 01:54:13 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2416.627728] usb 1-1.2: new full-speed USB device number 88 using dwc_otg
Sun Feb 28 01:54:13 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2416.751307] usb 1-1.2: New USB device found, idVendor=29f1, idProduct=33f2
Sun Feb 28 01:54:13 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2416.759816] usb 1-1.2: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3
Sun Feb 28 01:54:13 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2416.768746] usb 1-1.2: Product: USB2IIC Converter
Sun Feb 28 01:54:13 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2416.774930] usb 1-1.2: Manufacturer: CANAAN
Sun Feb 28 01:54:13 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2416.780621] usb 1-1.2: SerialNumber: 20141122
Sun Feb 28 01:54:13 2016 daemon.err udevd[2542]: failed to execute '/sbin/modprobe' '/sbin/modprobe -bv usb:v29F1p33F2d0100dcEFdsc02dp01ic0Aisc00ip00in01': No such file or directory
Sun Feb 28 01:54:13 2016 daemon.err udevd[2543]: failed to execute '/sbin/modprobe' '/sbin/modprobe -bv usb:v29F1p33F2d0100dcEFdsc02dp01ic02iscFEip00in00': No such file or directory
Sun Feb 28 01:54:42 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2445.909561] usb 1-1.2: USB disconnect, device number 88
Sun Feb 28 01:54:42 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2446.168853] usb 1-1.2: new full-speed USB device number 89 using dwc_otg
Sun Feb 28 01:54:43 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2446.292385] usb 1-1.2: New USB device found, idVendor=29f1, idProduct=33f2
Sun Feb 28 01:54:43 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2446.300918] usb 1-1.2: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3
Sun Feb 28 01:54:43 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2446.309820] usb 1-1.2: Product: USB2IIC Converter
Sun Feb 28 01:54:43 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2446.316055] usb 1-1.2: Manufacturer: CANAAN
Sun Feb 28 01:54:43 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2446.321746] usb 1-1.2: SerialNumber: 20141122
Sun Feb 28 01:54:43 2016 daemon.err udevd[2558]: failed to execute '/sbin/modprobe' '/sbin/modprobe -bv usb:v29F1p33F2d0100dcEFdsc02dp01ic0Aisc00ip00in01': No such file or directory
Sun Feb 28 01:54:43 2016 daemon.err udevd[2559]: failed to execute '/sbin/modprobe' '/sbin/modprobe -bv usb:v29F1p33F2d0100dcEFdsc02dp01ic02iscFEip00in00': No such file or directory
Sun Feb 28 01:55:01 2016 cron.info crond[405]: crond: USER root pid 2566 cmd /usr/bin/cgminer-monitor
Sun Feb 28 01:55:12 2016 kern.info kernel: [ 2475.470652] usb 1-1.2: USB disconnect, device number 89

These seem to just repeat forever, and actual hashing blades and fan are very quiet, though the fan is turning.

Any thoughts on what to look at? I have tried various cable swaps that I can do (i.e. the usb cables and RPi power supply and such) all to no avail. I only have the single 4-pin cable for the A6, which I expect is essentially an i2c "cable".

I noticed aways back mention of additional kinds of firmware for other bits (i.e. AUC, MM, Fan, etc), but I have no idea how I would check them and/or change them. Are those items flashed separately from the RPi image? How does one inspect those bits of firmware for their version?

Thanks for any of your thoughts.

I wish I could take credit for image, but it's actually image for BlockC RPI kit's.  I backed it up and shared it as I thought others would find it useful.  The DHCP makes it easy on any network to find it log in, then set a static IP that works for you.

But all thanks goes to BlockC on the image I posted.

Don't worry much about bad sdcards. I suggest having 2 or 3 spare cards and 1 spare rasp pi.

If you have four or five Avalon 6s.

If you have 1 avalon6 have at least one sdcard.

Since I acquired my Avalon6 used and without a Raspberry Pi, I have been fiddling around a bit with getting all setup. I have found out a few things that I thought others might find of value, since I haven't seen them mentioned elsewhere.

1) The various Raspberry Pi firmware images I expect use the original OpenWRT setup in terms of networking. This means that they have a static IP address and won't try and use DHCP to get an address. This makes some sense if it was actually a router, but it's not. The one image I looked into had a static IP address of 192.168.0.100. If you use the image that Notlist3d created, then it has DHCP already set.

2) The base image from ehash.com is actually quite small. It would almost certainly fit on a 1 Gbyte card, if that's what you happen to have. No need for an 8GB card.

3) As downloaded, the initial login is root with NO PASSWORD. Once you are in, you can add a password to root, and also enable ssh.

4) It appears that OpenWRT doesn't use the usual Linux shutdown -h command to shut down the raspberry Pi cleanly. Instead it appears you use "poweroff" from the command line (i.e. ssh in), and wait about 10 seconds. I am always nervous about just yanking the power on a running Pi, to avoid SD card corruption. Yes, it's inconvenient to have to ssh in, but it sure avoids the anguish of  corrupted SD card.

The ehash website has some documents that aren't specifically for the Avalon6, but are for an earlier generation of the Avalon seies, The basic items mentioned above are in there I think. They haven't done much to change their basic strategy for OpenWRT setup since earlier generations. You can also observe the kano.is pool address in the download image. It's unfortunate they don't also switch to DHCP as well.

On firmware I wanted to distribute a untouched copy of BlockC's kit at time of release.  So  I left it without being in a zip/rar file.  I do have a .rar that is around 600 MB if anyone needs it.   I might be taking it for granted on my internet speed, I just liked that I felt it was almost from kit to users on here without me zipping it up.

Biggest thing I changed on it myself after is static IP.  The DHCP is a great option for install as is not configured for a different IP range then some users.   But I hate it jumping around as  I do like to monitor gear.   So I suggest going to static after you get it up on network.

I have a way of operating if it works don't mess with it, unless big issue fixed.  I have had Avalon 6's since first hit market and never updated  the firmware.  You could do a MM update on gear, but I have been happy with it.  The fixes are all listed here: https://en.bitcoin.it/wiki/Avalon6#AUC2_Firmware  So it really is personal preference I don't think there is a wrong choice.  

I don't think there are any mundane tasks you need to do, beside checking and making sure you are hashing.  Which as a miner I have always enjoyed monitoring.   In my opinion Avalon did a great job with the miner.  Below you will see about a month of running without doing any tasks:


So really very stable any not something I have had any tasks that needed repeated to keep it going.

I have a couple of what will probably be simple questions. My Avalon6 is currently in transit, so I thought I would get the RPi environment all worked out before it arrives.

I started with the image that was provided by Notlist3d. This a bit shy of 4G and was rigged for DHCP. I got that flashed onto a card, and Model B Pi that I have seemed boot just fine. I was able to get in via the web interface using just "admin" for the Id (no password). Obviously a bunch of stuff is blank/empty since there is nothing connected to the USB port. All looking good.

What I have found so far is a NO way to "Shutdown" the Pi from the web GUI. Maybe its buried somewhere and I am just not seeing it. I am really reluctant to just yank the power on a Ri for fear of corrupting the SD card. I found a Reboot button that works great, but no "Shutdown". Any comments/thoughts?

I then thought I would do the "Set a password and enable SSH" thing. I am really not understanding how to correctly operate that page. I can enter a password and confirm it just fine, but it seems to have zero effect. I am also confused by the Id that I am setting the password for. Is it "root" or "admin". Any comments on the userid/password structure that is in place would be greatly appreciated.

I also looked at the ehash website and found a variety of firmware versions, all from different dates. I also see multiple files for each date. It would be really good to know exactly which one I need to flash, and what it's expectations are in terms of network environment (DHCP, Static, etc). I am also surprised by the fact that the largest one is but a mere 76Mbyte in size, way smaller than the 3.9 Gbyte image I started with. I can obviously try some of these things to see what happens, but thought I would see what the collective wisdom is one some of the more mundane "System Admin" tasks for the Rpi in this environment. I have a comfortable grasp of Raspbian on the Pi, but OpenWrt is way new for me.

I love my EVGA 1300's they seem to hold value decent.   So that is what I have been doing on some.

And server PSU's really are taking over.   It get's harder and harder to buy ATX psu's at least if you have 220/240 the price difference has made many go server PSU's.

Thanks Phil

 The first temperature reading is not ambient intake temp, it is the temperature of the control board itself. The machine will shut down and flash red at 45c. It will restart the controller and continue hashing once the temps have gone back down.

yes I used 2  seasonic 760 or 750 plats  works fine


this one

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151120&ignorebbr=1&cm_re=seasonic-_-17-151-120-_-Product

Has anyone powered individual boards with low power (750 watt?) power supplies?

Thanks!

Thanks for the input, I will try another power adapter.

I had some issues with power supplies with the RPi's... The Samsungs that BlockC shipped all seem to be good to go, but I had picked up some RPi's separately that did not have those, and had some issues.  I ended up picking up a couple of these and switching everything over to them:

http://amzn.to/1Qn3fsu

One can easily run 6 RPi's, plus it's rated to 240v so I can run it off of a C13 with an adapter.  As a bonus, it shows the actual amp draw of each RPi - not really useful for anything, but cool.  I've been using them for a few months now without issue, so if you want to consolidate your cabling a bit and clean things up, it's a good option.

I think my Raspberry Pi crashed yesterday. I came back from hockey and both AV 6 were not hashing (Flashing green light) I  restarted the Pie ... was all good after that. Only lost 15 mins

I created a video and started a new topic regarding the power supply modifications I did for use with my Avalon6 if anyone is interested:

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/guide-hp-hstns-pl11-psu-for-avalon6-auto-start-and-voltage-adjust-1356319

Ok... at 12.15V on the multimeter I'm seeing 3830 or so.  I might be a on the high side of what I should be then.  I'll keep an eye on it a little longer and will probably be backing it down to 12.13 or so.  I agree that the new voltage reading is closer to reality than before, but at the same time I don't like how the reading is bouncing around so much when the supply is perfectly stable. 

My temps are reading 33/74/74.  I'm not sure why I'm getting 33 in.  The three SP20s right next to it are all reading 24C intake and actual ambient is 71F (22C) .  I'm mining right at the HVAC return to heat the house, so airflow is very good.

My 4K IBM volmeter is at 12.13v UI show 12.1-12.2 hashing 3750-3800.

So from my Rev 2 perspective, you can trust the voltage for a Rev 2, Rev 1 not exact