Pages:
Author

Topic: Swedish ASIC miner company kncminer.com - page 79. (Read 3049528 times)

copper member
Activity: 2898
Merit: 1465
Clueless!

Thanks frenchy. I saw that. It doesnt say anything about the surface mount resistor size. Ive ordered that professional desoldering tool , the Hakko FR-300 because I feel strongly that I can remove the entire vrm and replace. So that tool should be in in the next few days. IF I can remove the vrms, this will help fix alot of our problems, AND we might be able to upgrade to the 50A version of the vrms Wink THAT would solve LOADS of problems!

Vegas



Just so it is on this thread someplace I have to say the following : Ahem Smiley

"My god man do you have BIG BRASS ONES IMHO...sheesh........"

Ok just figured someone had to say it in that ..if you guys are like me .. I rarely make direct eye contact with my Titan(s) in case they become offended and brick
themselves into door stop status...I mean MAJOR SURGERY the mind boggles Smiley



did you try it with 1000uf??

google says: sometimes a higher uf is acceptable, but not always ... depends on the circuit   :|   isn't 1000uf to 1500uf a pretty big jump?

Google is correct. We can make circuits for noise reduction and for another purposes. So if this is noise reduction purpose then there will be the lower limit for capacitor NOT LESS, but if it is some oscillating circuit then higher capacitor will change the frequency or amplitude.. this was our hand book Smiley http://users.physics.harvard.edu/~horowitz/aoe/

I'd try a 1000uf, afterall we are troubleshooting, have to see what works and doesn't  

here's the pic of the spreader removed

http://s18.postimg.org/py0qzeio7/1_kch2zw_Ak_GWOPBBu2o_Sg_OEg.png

looks like he used that little precision screwdriver to pry on the upper left corner, I am not saying to try it, just showing you the picture  -- I've wanted to look under there myself but don't want to risk losing a good board

and I guess that's not a Titan board, maybe a Neptune??

Ok this is a Neptune board. The BTC logo tells me that. Only Neptunes have the BTC logo on them.  I was trying to find which cores include die 0 and 1, as there are 2 dies per core. Die 0 and die 1 are by far the most troublesome, and seem to always fail. I THINK its the core on the top left corner. Can anyone confirm this? Anyone else notice in this pic that the top left core is the only one that does not have thermal grease on it? I suppose the tech could have cleaned it, but then why just clean one? Is it possible there is a fault in the design where the plate does not meet the core on the top left , which I think is contains die 0 and 1? I think the tech in this pic is showing a major fault in design, that is the reason for this pic (im guessing) .This would explain a WHOLE lot! Guys im not suggesting to remove your plates, and there is a strong possibility it will damage your cores.

Vegas

OK don't laugh but on this thread someplace someone said that they could not get an RMA on a cube of some kind (think it was a Titan but maybe not) from KNC because they
simply told him to TIGHTEN THE SCREWS down on the plate thingy (hey be careful this is 20/20 hindsight remembering here) he was like wtf? i just remember because it was such
a lame way not to do his RMA

but anyway that would go along your idea above I guess? Smiley (don't try this just tossing it out as a clue to how this stuff hangs together in case it is important for another solution)
legendary
Activity: 1610
Merit: 1003
"Yobit pump alert software" Link in my signature!
Ok so ive mapped the die locations. see pic. The readings to the far right of the screen are the temps for the dies and NOT the vrms. There are no temps for the vrms.

I turned off all the dies except 2 dies at a time. I then use my thermal laser gun to find the only hot spot on the plate, that told me where the dies where. Anyway here you go:





legendary
Activity: 1610
Merit: 1003
"Yobit pump alert software" Link in my signature!
Thanks frenchy. I saw that. It doesnt say anything about the surface mount resistor size. Ive ordered that professional desoldering tool , the Hakko FR-300 because I feel strongly that I can remove the entire vrm and replace. So that tool should be in in the next few days. IF I can remove the vrms, this will help fix alot of our problems, AND we might be able to upgrade to the 50A version of the vrms Wink THAT would solve LOADS of problems!

Vegas
newbie
Activity: 31
Merit: 0
Hello vegas i was searching about dcdc modules and found this page where you can download the datasheet of BMR m46X series.Don't know if it will help...this is the link:
http://www.ericsson.com/hu/ourportfolio/products/bmr464-series?nav=fgb_101_378|fgb_101_379

sr. member
Activity: 342
Merit: 250
it might work, I'm not sure how that vrm is mounted if you can get everything from the top, you might need to preheat the board too

if you have trouble because of the thickness, if you get as much out with the hakko as you can, fill the joint with chip quik to dilute that no lead solder, and hit it with the hakko again, bet that would do it

https://youtu.be/H0m_d52m1DU

https://youtu.be/gZxqpH23ZEM

another cool hakko tool, this one's for removing smd's:    https://youtu.be/nKxS6yNqess
legendary
Activity: 1610
Merit: 1003
"Yobit pump alert software" Link in my signature!
So im am replacing some surface mount resistors on the ericson. I bought some new off ebay a few months ago, and Im  out. I cant remember the size or specifications or that resistor. Does anyone know? I tried to go to Ericsson's website and look up the specs on the 764-BMR4641002 to find out the surface mount resitor as there are no markings on it.

Vegas



good luck non of that stuff has markings, maybe try to find an old cube for parts, maybe a Neptune would work

Steve thanks for your response. I wanted your opinion on something:

Ive carefully looked at these vrms and it appears that they could be desoldered with a professional desoldering tool like the Hakko FR-300

Take a look at the pic of our vrms :

(TOP):

Ive marked the holes in red that I believe a desolder tool with a built in vacuum could remove all the solder out, releasing the VRMs from the board for repair, and MAYBE upgade.


 (The underside):

What are your thoughts Steve? Anyone else is welcome to chime in with info.

Vegas
legendary
Activity: 2450
Merit: 1002
UPDATE, small error found in previous v.99 upgrade. For anyone that has updated so far, please reapply the .bin found here:
https://github.com/GenTarkin/Titan/releases/tag/v.99

BTW, as of now the enable / disable lighttpd option under SYSTEM tab works =)
sr. member
Activity: 342
Merit: 250
So im am replacing some surface mount resistors on the ericson. I bought some new off ebay a few months ago, and Im  out. I cant remember the size or specifications or that resistor. Does anyone know? I tried to go to Ericsson's website and look up the specs on the 764-BMR4641002 to find out the surface mount resitor as there are no markings on it.

Vegas



good luck non of that stuff has markings, maybe try to find an old cube for parts, maybe a Neptune would work
legendary
Activity: 1168
Merit: 1009
Here is a Titan controller board if anyone needs one:  Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin


http://www.ebay.com/itm/KNC-TITAN-CONTROLLER-BOARD-/221867035009?hash=item33a84e4981


this may be a dumb question but could someone just 'homebrew' clone such a board....? Not saying it is practical but for folk on here with the skills and such
is such a thing possible ..even in a mad scientist 'breadboard' type of manner?

Just curious is all with all the electronics talk on Titan fixes how far someone could go with all this ...expertise wise on this thread Smiley

Sure you can all you need is an old Neptune controller and a Pi only tricky part is the card to interface the pi tot he old board
legendary
Activity: 1610
Merit: 1003
"Yobit pump alert software" Link in my signature!
So im am replacing some surface mount resistors on the ericson. I bought some new off ebay a few months ago, and Im  out. I cant remember the size or specifications or that resistor. Does anyone know? I tried to go to Ericsson's website and look up the specs on the 764-BMR4641002 to find out the surface mount resitor as there are no markings on it.

Vegas
legendary
Activity: 2450
Merit: 1002
ANNOUNCING v.99 firmware:
https://github.com/GenTarkin/Titan/releases/tag/v.99

Release notes:
Changes for v.99:
After a failed original v.99 release, this is the new version with fixes for OTA & .bin upgrades!!

NOTE: If upgrading from v.98 via OTA, it "WILL" say theres an error in red letters and show error: as error result. But, if everything above the red letters doesnt state an error then its safe to reboot - there was no error. If upgrading using .bin file, there should be no issues.

NOTE: if anyone upgraded to v.99 prior to this new release, you will need to upgrade again using the .bin file listed on the page linked above!

Implementation of new graphics. Removal of KNC branding. Rewording of warning message on SYSTEM page.
Implemented auto increase of die clocks which have been underclocked due to DCDC overheat.
Created upgrade packages to allow installing my firmware via SYSTEM -> UPGRADE(knc's firmware upgarde method).
Various code fixes for monitoring script, donations & webgui.
Creating Backup now saves voltages, die clocks & minername. Minername now saved as part of backup filename.
Branding now enabled for all builds.
Groundwork started for enabling / disabling lighttpd access logging(disabled saves SD card life).
NOTES:
.bin file can be used to upgarde from STOCK KNC 2.00 firmware, the process takes a good few minutes.
.img file will be uploaded on request but is no longer needed really due to .bin being able to upgrade stock firmware to my modified firmware.
If upgrading from previous versions of my firmware then using the upgrade button on status page should upgrade to v.99.

Reboot after upgrading!
Note: if upgrade happens to fail repeatedly then redownload full v.98 img and attempt upgrade again.
sr. member
Activity: 342
Merit: 250
did you try it with 1000uf??

google says: sometimes a higher uf is acceptable, but not always ... depends on the circuit   :|   isn't 1000uf to 1500uf a pretty big jump?

Google is correct. We can make circuits for noise reduction and for another purposes. So if this is noise reduction purpose then there will be the lower limit for capacitor NOT LESS, but if it is some oscillating circuit then higher capacitor will change the frequency or amplitude.. this was our hand book Smiley http://users.physics.harvard.edu/~horowitz/aoe/

I'd try a 1000uf, afterall we are troubleshooting, have to see what works and doesn't  

here's the pic of the spreader removed

http://s18.postimg.org/py0qzeio7/1_kch2zw_Ak_GWOPBBu2o_Sg_OEg.png

looks like he used that little precision screwdriver to pry on the upper left corner, I am not saying to try it, just showing you the picture  -- I've wanted to look under there myself but don't want to risk losing a good board

and I guess that's not a Titan board, maybe a Neptune??

Ok this is a Neptune board. The BTC logo tells me that. Only Neptunes have the BTC logo on them.  I was trying to find which cores include die 0 and 1, as there are 2 dies per core. Die 0 and die 1 are by far the most troublesome, and seem to always fail. I THINK its the core on the top left corner. Can anyone confirm this? Anyone else notice in this pic that the top left core is the only one that does not have thermal grease on it? I suppose the tech could have cleaned it, but then why just clean one? Is it possible there is a fault in the design where the plate does not meet the core on the top left , which I think is contains die 0 and 1? I think the tech in this pic is showing a major fault in design, that is the reason for this pic (im guessing) .This would explain a WHOLE lot! Guys im not suggesting to remove your plates, and there is a strong possibility it will damage your cores.

Vegas

Looks like they are using thermal pads to fill the gap between the chips and the plate, could also be using thermal paste ...thermal pads come in different thicknesses and are pretty expensive for the good ones with high heat transfer, which still aren't as good as thermal paste

actually dies 0,1,2,3 are the problem dies for me. It looks like the Neptune has 4 mounting holes for the heat sink, the titan has only 3. Maybe the 2 chips for dies 0,1,2,3 are at the top, where there is only one mounting hole in the middle, so maybe those 2 chips are not getting enough pressure on the pads??

I solved all the vrm heat problems by using teslaman's mods in this thread and using high speed fans, I didn't do it exactly the way he did. I only fixed the ones that were running hot and I didn't epoxy everything. If they only needed to come down a few degrees I used the thermal pad that came with the heatsink. The epoxy will knock it down 10c or more if you use it.  I also found some .25 in heatsinks that fit under the eplate, but they don't work as well as the bigger ones where you need to modify the eplate

the funny thing is except for the high speed fans, some cubes just don't need any mods, they just run cool ... others you need to mod everything in sight
legendary
Activity: 1610
Merit: 1003
"Yobit pump alert software" Link in my signature!
did you try it with 1000uf??

google says: sometimes a higher uf is acceptable, but not always ... depends on the circuit   :|   isn't 1000uf to 1500uf a pretty big jump?

Google is correct. We can make circuits for noise reduction and for another purposes. So if this is noise reduction purpose then there will be the lower limit for capacitor NOT LESS, but if it is some oscillating circuit then higher capacitor will change the frequency or amplitude.. this was our hand book Smiley http://users.physics.harvard.edu/~horowitz/aoe/

I'd try a 1000uf, afterall we are troubleshooting, have to see what works and doesn't  

here's the pic of the spreader removed

http://s18.postimg.org/py0qzeio7/1_kch2zw_Ak_GWOPBBu2o_Sg_OEg.png

looks like he used that little precision screwdriver to pry on the upper left corner, I am not saying to try it, just showing you the picture  -- I've wanted to look under there myself but don't want to risk losing a good board

and I guess that's not a Titan board, maybe a Neptune??

Ok this is a Neptune board. The BTC logo tells me that. Only Neptunes have the BTC logo on them.  I was trying to find which cores include die 0 and 1, as there are 2 dies per core. Die 0 and die 1 are by far the most troublesome, and seem to always fail. I THINK its the core on the top left corner. Can anyone confirm this? Anyone else notice in this pic that the top left core is the only one that does not have thermal grease on it? I suppose the tech could have cleaned it, but then why just clean one? Is it possible there is a fault in the design where the plate does not meet the core on the top left , which I think is contains die 0 and 1? I think the tech in this pic is showing a major fault in design, that is the reason for this pic (im guessing) .This would explain a WHOLE lot! Guys im not suggesting to remove your plates, and there is a strong possibility it will damage your cores.

Vegas
newbie
Activity: 31
Merit: 0
But it seems that i am not the only one in this case because UserNaem seems to have a comparable issue with his controller too.I PM him but still wait his answer to know if he have found how to fix the problem.
newbie
Activity: 31
Merit: 0
The problem beginning when you have two green leds instead of three and when you lost the temperature of one cube on the main page of webgui.and one day after 4 cubes have no temperature and only one green led instead of three.since this the controller have infinite reboot issue and no more possibility to reset to factory default.
newbie
Activity: 31
Merit: 0
I know this reset procedure :5 time button pushed wait 5 seconds and again 5 time button pushed but in my case it doesn't work at all.
legendary
Activity: 1078
Merit: 1050
there's a button on the controller card that looks like it might be a reset button, but I have never pushed it or know what it does(if anything) or how it operates.

Does anyone know?

It is a manual, hard reset button. You can find more info in the manual.
sr. member
Activity: 342
Merit: 250
there's a button on the controller card that looks like it might be a reset button, but I have never pushed it or know what it does(if anything) or how it operates.

Does anyone know?
newbie
Activity: 31
Merit: 0
You are right searing.Or just someone who will be able to release a new firmware version with a button for forcing the hardware to reset to factory defaults.I have had this problem on my controller and have a infinite  reboot issue on all stock firmware.just the time to log on ssh and....reboot.And when i try to reset factory default on advanced page then.... nothing.and a few seconds after....reboot.No more lcd screen ,no more big led flashing white becomming green and only one green led instead of three.if anyone have any idea.for fixing this issue the community will reward you.It s already done for me with a premium version firmware purchase and 0.5 BTC donation to vegas to help development.
newbie
Activity: 31
Merit: 0
 ;DI was just looking for buying one but something said to me that this price is very....indecent.I preder wait and see if the litecoin halving will finally increase the price of my prefered miner.  Wink
Pages:
Jump to: