Topic: The Chili – 30+GH/s BFL based Bitcoin Miner Assembly - page 49. (Read 137904 times)
any updates on the second batch?
Here are two more pics of my chili
TIMs (those white spacers were just a little too tall so they are not there anymore... they felt solid and prevented the boughing issue but would not allow full force contact when I fired it up.
Back Heatsinks (I also have an 80mm fam blowing over the heatsinks and i run the whole thing standing up on the coollers lond side rather than letting it lie flat on stands
At first I was able to get just below 30 GH/s and I let it burn in over night... steady at 29+ all night. I tried to tweak it slowly adding more force via slowly tightening the screws round robin but I only ended up making it worse. I got a temp warning and shut off mining... backed the screws off and tested... repeated, even disassembled, reseated the cooler, got the screws tightened in unison and slowly tweaked them while watching for boughing... and was able to bring it back to near 30 GH/s with no warnings.
Man, I need a solution like what Teal made but sans a second cooler... like a heatsink with screw holes that fit the chili's closest mounting holes.
TIMs (those white spacers were just a little too tall so they are not there anymore... they felt solid and prevented the boughing issue but would not allow full force contact when I fired it up.
Back Heatsinks (I also have an 80mm fam blowing over the heatsinks and i run the whole thing standing up on the coollers lond side rather than letting it lie flat on stands
At first I was able to get just below 30 GH/s and I let it burn in over night... steady at 29+ all night. I tried to tweak it slowly adding more force via slowly tightening the screws round robin but I only ended up making it worse. I got a temp warning and shut off mining... backed the screws off and tested... repeated, even disassembled, reseated the cooler, got the screws tightened in unison and slowly tweaked them while watching for boughing... and was able to bring it back to near 30 GH/s with no warnings.
Man, I need a solution like what Teal made but sans a second cooler... like a heatsink with screw holes that fit the chili's closest mounting holes.
The bottom heatsink just has some Kapton tape and a little thermal grease on it, while the top cooler is just using thermal grease. Using this setup there is no board flex at all. The thermal grease is just the Antec branded stuff that's inside the box.
Isn't kapton tape a thermal insulator? Are you using the second heatsink purely as a symmetrical backplate, not to remove heat?
As you say, it's just to get good pressure on the ASICs without board flex. The fan on the bottom isn't even plugged it.
The bottom heatsink just has some Kapton tape and a little thermal grease on it, while the top cooler is just using thermal grease. Using this setup there is no board flex at all. The thermal grease is just the Antec branded stuff that's inside the box.
Isn't kapton tape a thermal insulator? Are you using the second heatsink purely as a symmetrical backplate, not to remove heat?
Ok I can glue at bottom a heatsink for vrms?
Or make problem at board?
Or make problem at board?
why use cgminer version 3.4.0
and not the last cgminer 3.6.6.
?
Because 3.4.0 works and I haven't bothered to update. and not the last cgminer 3.6.6.
?
why use cgminer version 3.4.0
and not the last cgminer 3.6.6.?
and not the last cgminer 3.6.6.
?
So here's a quick picture of what I've (on an unfortunate post-Halloween sugar bender) named my "Tower of Power" cooler.
Basic setup is two of the $10 Antec Kuhler Shelf coolers, with a 2" #8 screw connecting the two coolers. There's also two press on heatsinks on the VRMs.
The bottom heatsink just has some Kapton tape and a little thermal grease on it, while the top cooler is just using thermal grease. Using this setup there is no board flex at all. The thermal grease is just the Antec branded stuff that's inside the box.
The total cost of this cooling setup is about $26 including the two press-on heatsinks, though the space efficiency is terrible. I think you could get good numbers with just a simple backplate, as long as you are getting good contact with all the dies. My non-RevB (no engine 0) sample board with 7 ASICs mounted gets 32GH/s, and the other production (RevB) Chili I have configured like this is averaging 39.8GH/s, so I think there is a lot of benefit to looking at your cooling solution. Remember that you want your cooling solution to give good force pressing the ASICs to the heatsink (force is the red arrows, BTW) without doing so asymmetrically which will bend the PCB and give bad contact on the center ASICs.
Basic setup is two of the $10 Antec Kuhler Shelf coolers, with a 2" #8 screw connecting the two coolers. There's also two press on heatsinks on the VRMs.
The bottom heatsink just has some Kapton tape and a little thermal grease on it, while the top cooler is just using thermal grease. Using this setup there is no board flex at all. The thermal grease is just the Antec branded stuff that's inside the box.
The total cost of this cooling setup is about $26 including the two press-on heatsinks, though the space efficiency is terrible. I think you could get good numbers with just a simple backplate, as long as you are getting good contact with all the dies. My non-RevB (no engine 0) sample board with 7 ASICs mounted gets 32GH/s, and the other production (RevB) Chili I have configured like this is averaging 39.8GH/s, so I think there is a lot of benefit to looking at your cooling solution. Remember that you want your cooling solution to give good force pressing the ASICs to the heatsink (force is the red arrows, BTW) without doing so asymmetrically which will bend the PCB and give bad contact on the center ASICs.
so we must updated at new firmware?
So you beg for a new firmware and when it's released you ask if it's necessary to update?!
Quick tip for people with people dealing with fans on the Chili. The Cooler Master Evo 212 using the LGA 2011 parts work great on the chili didn't need anything else than what was in the box.
What holds the short standoffs to the board? If I remember correctly, the supplied nuts only fit the taller standoffs (i.e. for Socket 1155).
Quick tip for people with people dealing with fans on the Chili. The Cooler Master Evo 212 using the LGA 2011 parts work great on the chili didn't need anything else than what was in the box.
I only used what came with the fan.
WARNING: You have to be careful not to tighten the nuts excessively.
https://i.imgur.com/XHardqy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IcaFzSa.jpg
I only used what came with the fan.
WARNING: You have to be careful not to tighten the nuts excessively.
https://i.imgur.com/XHardqy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IcaFzSa.jpg
why not is worst fimware from the earlier/?
so we must updated at new firmware?
No, only if you have a unit that sits and flashes the two end LEDs during self test and doesn't stop.
so we must updated at new firmware?
? how does this board do jobs. i know on early firmware of bfl units it would only do 1 job per / later firmware they fixed it so it would do XX jobs per instead of just 1 job
to me it looks like the board is just doing 1 job at a time is this correct ?
if this this correct any plans on changing it to XX jobs instead ?
to me it looks like the board is just doing 1 job at a time is this correct ?
if this this correct any plans on changing it to XX jobs instead ?
Early BFL firmware did one job per device, but they had a hard time getting it to work efficiently. My understanding is that the problem they had is that the frequency of the chips varies between different chips even at the same frequency setting and voltage. They ended up with some chips finishing work early and idling while they were waiting for the last core to finish.
Because we actually measure the frequency of each chip independently, we can more efficiently divide work so that faster chips get a larger portion of the nonce range, and all the chips still finish at the same time. All things being equal, if you can get 100% efficiency using one job per device it's a better way to go, as you'll retire jobs 8x faster than one job per chip and you'll end up with lower stales every time there's a new block.
Updated firmware, that should solve the hang during startup.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8qhhoqmvtk6i6jj/Chili14d.hex
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8qhhoqmvtk6i6jj/Chili14d.hex
? how does this board do jobs. i know on early firmware of bfl units it would only do 1 job per / later firmware they fixed it so it would do XX jobs per instead of just 1 job
to me it looks like the board is just doing 1 job at a time is this correct ?
if this this correct any plans on changing it to XX jobs instead ?
also can i say i have fw 1.0.0 as this is what the RW2-BFL-Commport-Scanner outputted for me before
DEVICE: BitFORCE SC
FIRMWARE: 1.0.0
* i ordered a cooler for the chili and will be installing it monday, once the cooler gets here.
also thank u for the new firmware
to me it looks like the board is just doing 1 job at a time is this correct ?
if this this correct any plans on changing it to XX jobs instead ?
also can i say i have fw 1.0.0 as this is what the RW2-BFL-Commport-Scanner outputted for me before
DEVICE: BitFORCE SC
FIRMWARE: 1.0.0
* i ordered a cooler for the chili and will be installing it monday, once the cooler gets here.
also thank u for the new firmware
These is new firmware?
How I install it?
No, it's the same firmware that shipped on the second half of the first batch.How I install it?
Open ChiliFlash, and select the Chili that needs to be flashed from the drop down menu. Browse the the ChiliFW14c.hex hex file, and then hit program. The LEDs on the board should binary count quickly, and when it's done it will prompt to power cycle the unit and the LEDs should flash outer 4 then inner 4 until you do.
Is there a way to determine a board's current firmware version with a serial console? I don't know if I already have 14c, and they're connected to a linux pc. I tried the ZCX command but the output doesn't appear to include the firmware version.
These is new firmware?
How I install it?
No, it's the same firmware that shipped on the second half of the first batch.How I install it?
Open ChiliFlash, and select the Chili that needs to be flashed from the drop down menu. Browse the the ChiliFW14c.hex hex file, and then hit program. The LEDs on the board should binary count quickly, and when it's done it will prompt to power cycle the unit and the LEDs should flash outer 4 then inner 4 until you do.
Is there a way to determine a board's current firmware version with a serial console? I don't know if I already have 14c, and they're connected to a linux pc. I tried the ZCX command but the output doesn't appear to include the firmware version.
Also which is better more hashing speed
Cgminer or bfgminer?
Cgminer or bfgminer?
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