The Chili – 30+GH/s BFL based Bitcoin Miner Assembly - page 45.

MrTeal

legendary

Activity: 1274

Merit: 1004

Quote from: Spieder on November 08, 2013, 01:49:16 PM

Mr. Teal,

Any good news on how the rework went?

The boards are back at the assembly house, and the good news is that the pads are much better. We have a couple where the second pass of the air knocked some of the mask off between some pads, but not enough that it will affect any customer's boards.

MrTeal

legendary

Activity: 1274

Merit: 1004

Quote from: ?? on ??

Where can i find the latest firmware for the chilis? I have one that won't start hashing and is reporting to cgminer as a BAJ instead of an ls. I figure it was a bad flash or something stupid like that as it's brand new.

Flash Utility: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xpccbhfkbpinov8/ChiliFlash.exe
source: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zn8gkojly2f87wx/ChiliFlash.rar
FW Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8qhhoqmvtk6i6jj/Chili14d.hex

Keefe

hero member

Activity: 681

Merit: 500

Quote from: ?? on ??

Where can i find the latest firmware for the chilis? I have one that won't start hashing and is reporting to cgminer as a BAJ instead of an ls. I figure it was a bad flash or something stupid like that as it's brand new.

Quote from: MrTeal on November 04, 2013, 08:25:45 PM

Quote from: jelin1984 on November 04, 2013, 07:42:31 PM

which is the newest firmware?
any link/

Quote from: MrTeal on November 02, 2013, 06:02:05 PM

Updated firmware, that should solve the hang during startup.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8qhhoqmvtk6i6jj/Chili14d.hex

Choadmeyer

sr. member

Activity: 495

Merit: 250

Quote from: Spieder on November 08, 2013, 01:49:16 PM

Mr. Teal,

Any good news on how the rework went?

+1

one4many

hero member

Activity: 516

Merit: 500

Quote from: MrTeal on November 08, 2013, 11:07:54 AM

Quote from: one4many on November 08, 2013, 11:03:44 AM

I try identify the form factor of the USB connection on the board.
Is it mini USB .... or micro USB?

one4many

It's a 5 pin Mini-B.

Thx ... this is just what I needed ... need to order a few ... still prefer to use chaining ;-) If it would have been ready.

Bogart

legendary

Activity: 966

Merit: 1000

Quote from: MrTeal on November 08, 2013, 11:07:54 AM

Quote from: one4many on November 08, 2013, 11:03:44 AM

I try identify the form factor of the USB connection on the board.
Is it mini USB .... or micro USB?

one4many

It's a 5 pin Mini-B.

Nice. That's what all the other USB miners I have use *except* for my bitburner which uses a micro. I much prefer the mini-style.

Spieder

member

Activity: 66

Merit: 10

Put the TIM against the chips and added grease on top of the TIM. The grease comes in contact with the base of the heatsink, not the chips.

daemonfox

hero member

Activity: 630

Merit: 500

Quote from: Spieder on November 08, 2013, 01:35:27 PM

I was trying out different coolers last night and noticed something about the chips. The chips aren't just at different heights but are slanted in different directions.

They are slanted so much that the fuji TIM wasn't thick enough to make up the difference. For my first setup I applied Arctic Silver on top of my TIM and reached 36 Ghz. On my subsequent tries with just the TIM I was topping out at 29 to 30 Ghz. When I took the coolers off and looked at the TIM I could clearly see how uneven the chips were. I put Arctic back on top and I was able to get 36 Ghz again.

My thoughts are add some grease to your TIM or add a second layer of TIM to thicken it up.

I had my suspicions on this... the first time i unmounted my cooler and looked at the heatsink surface... in the right light I could see the outline of where the TIM had pressure on the surface. A couple spots looked like there might be less contact but not congruent with where board flex would have it... like the ships were not level.

So you are saying you put TIM on the chips... then paste on the TIM? So paste to the cooler base? Or do you mean paste on the chips, then TIM on top to cooler base?

Spieder

member

Activity: 66

Merit: 10

Mr. Teal,

Any good news on how the rework went?

Spieder

member

Activity: 66

Merit: 10

Quote from: Mudbankkeith on November 08, 2013, 08:13:28 AM

Quote from: daemonfox on November 08, 2013, 07:53:28 AM

Quote from: jborkl on November 07, 2013, 08:59:05 PM

To answer the questions.

You will need a power supply with a 6 in pcie
You will need a Higher end CPU cooler or GPU cooler.

I have been having very good luck with the dual antec kuhler shelf setup. This also makes a nice stand for the card. I have also been having very very good results with the corsair H60.

The cards HAVE to have a backplate,or they will have trouble booting (blinking or solid lights).

The boards will still connect but not hash in this state. It is poor contact or poor cooling (same thing).

The boards flex easily and even if you can not see it, it will make your board
1. Not boot, blink
2. Boot , throw a high hash rate but all errors
3. Hash slowly.

More detail please...

TIM or paste on chips?

TIM or insulator and paste on the bottom?

Hashrate using the Chilibug setup and the dual shelf setup?

1,2 and 3 are not 100% correct... I want more hashes... but I am 33-34 GH/s @ 70C with only the Arctic Accelero TT II no backplate using just Fulpoly TIM on the chips and thermal adhesive + mini heatsinks under the chips and VRMs.

EDIT: and where did you get an H60 for $32?

With extra cooling ABOVE the mosfets, I gained another 5Gh up from 32 to 37

I was trying out different coolers last night and noticed something about the chips. The chips aren't just at different heights but are slanted in different directions.

They are slanted so much that the Fulpoly TIM wasn't thick enough to make up the difference. For my first setup I applied Arctic Silver on top of my TIM and reached 36 Ghz. On my subsequent tries with just the TIM I was topping out at 29 to 30 Ghz. When I took the coolers off and looked at the TIM I could clearly see how uneven the chips were. I put Arctic back on top and I was able to get 36 Ghz again.

My thoughts are add some grease to your TIM or add a second layer of TIM to thicken it up.

MrTeal

legendary

Activity: 1274

Merit: 1004

Quote from: one4many on November 08, 2013, 11:03:44 AM

I try identify the form factor of the USB connection on the board.
Is it mini USB .... or micro USB?

one4many

It's a 5 pin Mini-B.

Mudbankkeith

hero member

Activity: 868

Merit: 1000

Quote from: one4many on November 08, 2013, 11:03:44 AM

I try identify the form factor of the USB connection on the board.
Is it mini USB .... or micro USB?

one4many

Mini

edit :- and I think the mini is also a better connector (shame that the EU are forcing us to go micro)

one4many

hero member

Activity: 516

Merit: 500

I try identify the form factor of the USB connection on the board.
Is it mini USB .... or micro USB?

one4many

Mudbankkeith

hero member

Activity: 868

Merit: 1000

Quote from: daemonfox on November 08, 2013, 07:53:28 AM

Quote from: jborkl on November 07, 2013, 08:59:05 PM

To answer the questions.

You will need a power supply with a 6 in pcie
You will need a Higher end CPU cooler or GPU cooler.

I have been having very good luck with the dual antec kuhler shelf setup. This also makes a nice stand for the card. I have also been having very very good results with the corsair H60.

The cards HAVE to have a backplate,or they will have trouble booting (blinking or solid lights).

The boards will still connect but not hash in this state. It is poor contact or poor cooling (same thing).

The boards flex easily and even if you can not see it, it will make your board
1. Not boot, blink
2. Boot , throw a high hash rate but all errors
3. Hash slowly.

More detail please...

TIM or paste on chips?

TIM or insulator and paste on the bottom?

Hashrate using the Chilibug setup and the dual shelf setup?

1,2 and 3 are not 100% correct... I want more hashes... but I am 33-34 GH/s @ 70C with only the Arctic Accelero TT II no backplate using just Fulpoly TIM on the chips and thermal adhesive + mini heatsinks under the chips and VRMs.

EDIT: and where did you get an H60 for $32?

With extra cooling ABOVE the mosfets, I gained another 5Gh up from 32 to 37

daemonfox

hero member

Activity: 630

Merit: 500

Quote from: jborkl on November 07, 2013, 08:59:05 PM

To answer the questions.

You will need a power supply with a 6 in pcie
You will need a Higher end CPU cooler or GPU cooler.

I have been having very good luck with the dual antec kuhler shelf setup. This also makes a nice stand for the card. I have also been having very very good results with the corsair H60.

The cards HAVE to have a backplate,or they will have trouble booting (blinking or solid lights).

The boards will still connect but not hash in this state. It is poor contact or poor cooling (same thing).

The boards flex easily and even if you can not see it, it will make your board
1. Not boot, blink
2. Boot , throw a high hash rate but all errors
3. Hash slowly.

More detail please...

TIM or paste on chips?

TIM or insulator and paste on the bottom?

Hashrate using the Chilibug setup and the dual shelf setup?

1,2 and 3 are not 100% correct... I want more hashes... but I am 33-34 GH/s @ 70C with only the Arctic Accelero TT II no backplate using just Fujipoly TIM on the chips and thermal adhesive + mini heatsinks under the chips and VRMs.

EDIT: and where did you get an H60 for $32?

jborkl

sr. member

Activity: 246

Merit: 250

Team Heritage Motorsports

Nicknamed mine the chilibug. $32 cooling keeps it at 55c

jborkl

sr. member

Activity: 246

Merit: 250

Team Heritage Motorsports

To answer the questions.

You will need a power supply with a 6 in pcie
You will need a Higher end CPU cooler or GPU cooler.

I have been having very good luck with the dual antec kuhler shelf setup. This also makes a nice stand for the card. I have also been having very very good results with the corsair H60.

The cards HAVE to have a backplate,or they will have trouble booting (blinking or solid lights).

The boards will still connect but not hash in this state. It is poor contact or poor cooling (same thing).

The boards flex easily and even if you can not see it, it will make your board
1. Not boot, blink
2. Boot , throw a high hash rate but all errors
3. Hash slowly.

agibby5

sr. member

Activity: 267

Merit: 250

Quote from: asjfdlksfd on November 07, 2013, 07:48:56 PM

Hi,

I'm searching the post with the different power consumption values of different Hashing speeds.
Can anybody help me? Why I'm asking? If the difficulty will grow more and more I would like to throttle the boards down to a value of the best hashing rates / watt.
The only post I've found was a 180 W at 35 GH/s which is 5,14 W/GH/s
My original Little single need 125 W from wall at 30 GH/s which is 4,17 W/GH/s

Cheers...

I agree that it's hard to find things with the search. I think this info should be copied to the OP along with ideas as to what needs to be purchased to make one of these run.

asjfdlksfd

full member

Activity: 128

Merit: 100

Hi,

I'm searching the post with the different power consumption values of different Hashing speeds.
Can anybody help me? Why I'm asking? If the difficulty will grow more and more I would like to throttle the boards down to a value of the best hashing rates / watt.
The only post I've found was a 180 W at 35 GH/s which is 5,14 W/GH/s
My original Little single need 125 W from wall at 30 GH/s which is 4,17 W/GH/s

Cheers...

daemonfox

hero member

Activity: 630

Merit: 500

Quote from: Bogart on November 07, 2013, 10:22:37 AM

Meh. The Chili plug is somewhat appropriate for this thread, but a plug for a pool is not. Please remove it.

WOW... wasn't even given a chance to change the post before it was deleted for me.

Topic: The Chili – 30+GH/s BFL based Bitcoin Miner Assembly - page 45. (Read 137978 times)