the Blue ones above work well with Plugable 7 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 4A.
i suspect in this case you would want:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30501-FlexUSB-Adapter/dp/B0001LS3EI/ref=pd_sim_e_1
or
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Rotating-Swivel-Adapter-GCSWUSBAMAF/dp/B0055CRA3I/ref=pd_sim_e_5
Topic: Which USB hub to use with Block Erupters | NanoFury NF1 | BPMC Red Fury | Ant U1 - page 10. (Read 128597 times)
October 18, 2013, 02:37:27 PM
October 18, 2013, 02:10:57 PM
Another type, suggested by Trongersoll (https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.2941275):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007X82ZPA/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007X82ZPA/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
October 18, 2013, 12:15:29 PM
This is an update on the MCM hubs. As I've mentioned in my initial review, it supports seven miners. There are only 46 miners on this setup; 1+2 rear ports on the last two hubs respectively are not populated (waiting for more miners to come in):
...and here they are in action:
http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/visdude/media/MVI_0112_zps64f2f52e.mp4.html
The hub stands/bases were originally affixed onto the desk (here) but I found it to be inflexible and inconvenient. So, I got a cheapo clipboard and a roll of masking tape at the local 99-cent store and made a movable platform out of it to organize the hubs. This setup is ideal with these hubs since one can just pull it from the base and work on it independently from the rest (modular). Partly seen in the lower right hand corner of the image is another hub. I have started to create another row of seven MCM-type generic hubs (all black this time) along the other side of the clipboard. I'm pairing them with 4A bricks (much better alternative than wall warts in that it does not waste and occupy two outlets on the power strip). It comes out a little cheaper than MCM's without being subjected to exorbitant shipping charges and applicable sales tax. I would also have a bit of a headroom power wise (.5A more).
The setup is currently hosted through a single USB 2.0 port on an old netbook and draws 11W off the wall while mining.
...and here they are in action:
http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/visdude/media/MVI_0112_zps64f2f52e.mp4.html
The hub stands/bases were originally affixed onto the desk (here) but I found it to be inflexible and inconvenient. So, I got a cheapo clipboard and a roll of masking tape at the local 99-cent store and made a movable platform out of it to organize the hubs. This setup is ideal with these hubs since one can just pull it from the base and work on it independently from the rest (modular). Partly seen in the lower right hand corner of the image is another hub. I have started to create another row of seven MCM-type generic hubs (all black this time) along the other side of the clipboard. I'm pairing them with 4A bricks (much better alternative than wall warts in that it does not waste and occupy two outlets on the power strip). It comes out a little cheaper than MCM's without being subjected to exorbitant shipping charges and applicable sales tax. I would also have a bit of a headroom power wise (.5A more).
The setup is currently hosted through a single USB 2.0 port on an old netbook and draws 11W off the wall while mining.
I just bought 6 of these hubs from MCM. Two of them are dead, one I have to wiggle the ac adapter barrel to get to work and one that windows says is bad. Four of them are working however not well. I can only get 3 be's running in the hubs. I have mine orientated where the heatsink of the be's is facing up. If I plug anything into the bottom 2 ports they either just dont work or stop the top 3 from working. This happens on any of the 4 working hubs. Any advice?
October 18, 2013, 10:34:52 AM
This is an update on the MCM hubs. As I've mentioned in my initial review, it supports seven miners. There are only 46 miners on this setup; 1+2 rear ports on the last two hubs respectively are not populated (waiting for more miners to come in):
...and here they are in action:
http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/visdude/media/MVI_0112_zps64f2f52e.mp4.html
The hub stands/bases were originally affixed onto the desk (here) but I found it to be inflexible and inconvenient. So, I got a cheapo clipboard and a roll of masking tape at the local 99-cent store and made a movable platform out of it to organize the hubs. This setup is ideal with these hubs since one can just pull it from the base and work on it independently from the rest (modular). Partly seen in the lower right hand corner of the image is another hub. I have started to create another row of seven MCM-type generic hubs (all black this time) along the other side of the clipboard. I'm pairing them with 4A bricks (much better alternative than wall warts in that it does not waste and occupy two outlets on the power strip). It comes out a little cheaper than MCM's without being subjected to exorbitant shipping charges and applicable sales tax. I would also have a bit of a headroom power wise (.5A more).
The setup is currently hosted through a single USB 2.0 port on an old netbook and draws 11W off the wall while mining.
...and here they are in action:
http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/visdude/media/MVI_0112_zps64f2f52e.mp4.html
The hub stands/bases were originally affixed onto the desk (here) but I found it to be inflexible and inconvenient. So, I got a cheapo clipboard and a roll of masking tape at the local 99-cent store and made a movable platform out of it to organize the hubs. This setup is ideal with these hubs since one can just pull it from the base and work on it independently from the rest (modular). Partly seen in the lower right hand corner of the image is another hub. I have started to create another row of seven MCM-type generic hubs (all black this time) along the other side of the clipboard. I'm pairing them with 4A bricks (much better alternative than wall warts in that it does not waste and occupy two outlets on the power strip). It comes out a little cheaper than MCM's without being subjected to exorbitant shipping charges and applicable sales tax. I would also have a bit of a headroom power wise (.5A more).
The setup is currently hosted through a single USB 2.0 port on an old netbook and draws 11W off the wall while mining.
I just bought 6 of these hubs from MCM. Two of them are dead, one I have to wiggle the ac adapter barrel to get to work and one that windows says is bad. Four of them are working however not well. I can only get 3 be's running in the hubs. I have mine orientated where the heatsink of the be's is facing up. If I plug anything into the bottom 2 ports they either just dont work or stop the top 3 from working. This happens on any of the 4 working hubs. Any advice?
October 16, 2013, 01:40:14 PM
The easiest way to go is to take the cable with the barrel plug that already fits your hub. In other words, cut it off from the wall adapter. Then you'll need the other end, something to connect to you PSU. For that, a cut off Molex splitters work fine.
Then you need to figure out where (+) wire on the barrel cable is. It is usually noted on the wall adapter if (+) is in the centre or on the outer ring. You can use some 1,5 volt battery and some appliance to determine which wire is connected to the outer ring.
On D-Link and Rosewill the (+) wire was marked with long dashes.
Connect red wire to the (+) wire of the barrel cable. Connect the black wire to the (-) wire of the barrel cable.
Double-check the above.
Triple-check the above.
The result will look something like this:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3223688
Now, short the green-wired connector to the black one of the ATX PSU to power it up and connect your newly spliced Molex->barrel cable. Connect to the hub. If it seems to work, connect one BE. Still working? Good. Connect the USB cable and try hashing. Connect the rest.
When powering down, ALWAYS disconnect the USB cable first before powering down the hub.
Then you need to figure out where (+) wire on the barrel cable is. It is usually noted on the wall adapter if (+) is in the centre or on the outer ring. You can use some 1,5 volt battery and some appliance to determine which wire is connected to the outer ring.
On D-Link and Rosewill the (+) wire was marked with long dashes.
Connect red wire to the (+) wire of the barrel cable. Connect the black wire to the (-) wire of the barrel cable.
Double-check the above.
Triple-check the above.
The result will look something like this:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3223688
Now, short the green-wired connector to the black one of the ATX PSU to power it up and connect your newly spliced Molex->barrel cable. Connect to the hub. If it seems to work, connect one BE. Still working? Good. Connect the USB cable and try hashing. Connect the rest.
When powering down, ALWAYS disconnect the USB cable first before powering down the hub.
Thanks for the explanation. Im going to try this later this week.
October 16, 2013, 05:56:29 AM
Im having a hard time understanding where to start on this project. I want to power 10 D-link 7 Port Hubs off an old ATX power supply. I have scoured this tread and I see that a few of you are doing it already. My problem is exactly what I already stated that I have no idea where to start because I am almost fully retarded when it comes to electricity. As far as I can understand I need to take the 5v wires and add a barrel plug for each hub. I dont want to fry myself or my hubs could someone please give me some 8th grade level help on this?
This site may have what you need
edit:- replacement connectors
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271266632312?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
October 16, 2013, 05:48:37 AM
The easiest way to go is to take the cable with the barrel plug that already fits your hub. In other words, cut it off from the wall adapter. Then you'll need the other end, something to connect to you PSU. For that, a cut off Molex splitters work fine.
Then you need to figure out where (+) wire on the barrel cable is. It is usually noted on the wall adapter if (+) is in the centre or on the outer ring. You can use some 1,5 volt battery and some appliance to determine which wire is connected to the outer ring.
On D-Link and Rosewill the (+) wire was marked with long dashes.
Connect red wire to the (+) wire of the barrel cable. Connect the black wire to the (-) wire of the barrel cable.
Double-check the above.
Triple-check the above.
The result will look something like this:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3223688
Now, short the green-wired connector to the black one of the ATX PSU to power it up and connect your newly spliced Molex->barrel cable. Connect to the hub. If it seems to work, connect one BE. Still working? Good. Connect the USB cable and try hashing. Connect the rest.
When powering down, ALWAYS disconnect the USB cable first before powering down the hub.
Then you need to figure out where (+) wire on the barrel cable is. It is usually noted on the wall adapter if (+) is in the centre or on the outer ring. You can use some 1,5 volt battery and some appliance to determine which wire is connected to the outer ring.
On D-Link and Rosewill the (+) wire was marked with long dashes.
Connect red wire to the (+) wire of the barrel cable. Connect the black wire to the (-) wire of the barrel cable.
Double-check the above.
Triple-check the above.
The result will look something like this:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3223688
Now, short the green-wired connector to the black one of the ATX PSU to power it up and connect your newly spliced Molex->barrel cable. Connect to the hub. If it seems to work, connect one BE. Still working? Good. Connect the USB cable and try hashing. Connect the rest.
When powering down, ALWAYS disconnect the USB cable first before powering down the hub.
October 15, 2013, 09:25:35 PM
Im having a hard time understanding where to start on this project. I want to power 10 D-link 7 Port Hubs off an old ATX power supply. I have scoured this tread and I see that a few of you are doing it already. My problem is exactly what I already stated that I have no idea where to start because I am almost fully retarded when it comes to electricity. As far as I can understand I need to take the 5v wires and add a barrel plug for each hub. I dont want to fry myself or my hubs could someone please give me some 8th grade level help on this?
October 15, 2013, 03:25:28 PM
I have two 5v 20a power supplies and 4 10 port usb hubs for sale below. .40btc
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3343670
October 15, 2013, 05:36:30 AM
I am powering more than half of my BEs from ATX PSUs on USB 2.0 D-Link (and one Rosewill) hubs (drawing 5V). Older PSUs work like a charm. Tried a newer Corsair 600GS and discovered at it did not manage to power the hubs that well. It is rated at 25A (just like one old PSU), but manages to power only 6 BEs per hub, whereas the old one tackles the full load of 7 without breaking a sweat.
I only draw 5V. There is no load on 12V contacts.
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3223688
I only draw 5V. There is no load on 12V contacts.
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3223688
Maybe I should get some more D-link hubs, Then I can split the load on the ATX PSU between the 12v and 5v rails.
There is so much equipment out there that is not quite the same, but still in spec.
October 15, 2013, 05:23:44 AM
I am powering more than half of my BEs from ATX PSUs on USB 2.0 D-Link (and one Rosewill) hubs (drawing 5V). Older PSUs work like a charm. Tried a newer Corsair 600GS and discovered at it did not manage to power the hubs that well. It is rated at 25A (just like one old PSU), but manages to power only 6 BEs per hub, whereas the old one tackles the full load of 7 without breaking a sweat.
I only draw 5V. There is no load on 12V contacts.
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3223688
I only draw 5V. There is no load on 12V contacts.
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3223688
October 15, 2013, 05:18:51 AM
I got some of the Orico p10-u3-bk 10 Port USB 3 hubs from dx.com before they ran out of stock (http://dx.com/p/orico-p10-u3-bk-10-port-usb-3-0-hub-w-indicator-led-switch-external-power-adapter-black-231977)
I'm using 6 of these hubs 24/7. The power brick needs some cooling. (3 replacement power supplies in 3 months)
Don't forget USB3 is no good on a Pi.
I tried that and the power draw, at the wall, nearly doubled. Then my ATX psu tripped, the cooling fan was not adjusting to the 12v rail demands, only the 5v rail, and that was idle.
October 15, 2013, 05:06:53 AM
I got some of the Orico p10-u3-bk 10 Port USB 3 hubs from dx.com before they ran out of stock (http://dx.com/p/orico-p10-u3-bk-10-port-usb-3-0-hub-w-indicator-led-switch-external-power-adapter-black-231977)
I'm using 6 of these hubs 24/7. The power brick needs some cooling. (3 replacement power supplies in 3 months)
Don't forget USB3 is no good on a Pi.
October 15, 2013, 04:06:45 AM
Did anyone try USB 3.0 hubs connected through a USB 2.0 hub and then to the raspi?
I'm using 6 of these hubs 24/7. The power brick needs some cooling. (3 replacement power supplies in 3 months)
Don't forget USB3 is no good on a Pi.
I got some of the Orico p10-u3-bk 10 Port USB 3 hubs from dx.com before they ran out of stock (http://dx.com/p/orico-p10-u3-bk-10-port-usb-3-0-hub-w-indicator-led-switch-external-power-adapter-black-231977)
Comes with a 12V 4A power brick (i.e. 48W), uses a figure-8 mains power lead. So for 10 USB miners, the PSU will be running at just over half its rated output according to the label
Much better USB sockets than the $10 10 port USB 2.0 hub "sticks" I have. And at $56 each, no wonder they sold out
With Windows, works fine so far with 10 miners plugged in, running for 15 minutes so far.
Comes with a 12V 4A power brick (i.e. 48W), uses a figure-8 mains power lead. So for 10 USB miners, the PSU will be running at just over half its rated output according to the label
Much better USB sockets than the $10 10 port USB 2.0 hub "sticks" I have. And at $56 each, no wonder they sold out
With Windows, works fine so far with 10 miners plugged in, running for 15 minutes so far.
I'm using 6 of these hubs 24/7. The power brick needs some cooling. (3 replacement power supplies in 3 months)
Don't forget USB3 is no good on a Pi.
October 15, 2013, 04:03:48 AM
I got some of the Orico p10-u3-bk 10 Port USB 3 hubs from dx.com before they ran out of stock (http://dx.com/p/orico-p10-u3-bk-10-port-usb-3-0-hub-w-indicator-led-switch-external-power-adapter-black-231977)
Comes with a 12V 4A power brick (i.e. 48W), uses a figure-8 mains power lead. So for 10 USB miners, the PSU will be running at just over half its rated output according to the label
Much better USB sockets than the $10 10 port USB 2.0 hub "sticks" I have. And at $56 each, no wonder they sold out
With Windows, works fine so far with 10 miners plugged in, running for 15 minutes so far.
Comes with a 12V 4A power brick (i.e. 48W), uses a figure-8 mains power lead. So for 10 USB miners, the PSU will be running at just over half its rated output according to the label
Much better USB sockets than the $10 10 port USB 2.0 hub "sticks" I have. And at $56 each, no wonder they sold out
With Windows, works fine so far with 10 miners plugged in, running for 15 minutes so far.
I'm using 6 of these hubs 24/7. The power brick needs some cooling. (3 replacement power supplies in 3 months)
Don't forget USB3 is no good on a Pi.
October 15, 2013, 03:53:38 AM
I got some of the Orico p10-u3-bk 10 Port USB 3 hubs from dx.com before they ran out of stock (http://dx.com/p/orico-p10-u3-bk-10-port-usb-3-0-hub-w-indicator-led-switch-external-power-adapter-black-231977)
Comes with a 12V 4A power brick (i.e. 48W), uses a figure-8 mains power lead. So for 10 USB miners, the PSU will be running at just over half its rated output according to the label
Much better USB sockets than the $10 10 port USB 2.0 hub "sticks" I have. And at $56 each, no wonder they sold out
With Windows, works fine so far with 10 miners plugged in, running for 15 minutes so far.
Comes with a 12V 4A power brick (i.e. 48W), uses a figure-8 mains power lead. So for 10 USB miners, the PSU will be running at just over half its rated output according to the label
Much better USB sockets than the $10 10 port USB 2.0 hub "sticks" I have. And at $56 each, no wonder they sold out
With Windows, works fine so far with 10 miners plugged in, running for 15 minutes so far.
October 15, 2013, 02:05:51 AM
Hi everyone,
I believe I've found the holy grail on USB hubs for miners. Orico makes a 10 port USB 2.0 hub (P10-U2), but never advertises is. I just got in contact with my rep, and will be placing a very large order on them. Cost is going to be significantly lower than any other hub on the list on the front of the page. The PSU is 12v/3a, and is a spitting image of the P10-U3 (which ranges in price from $50 - $65 online).
I should be able to sell them for between $25 - $30 USD including shipping. I am planning on buying at least 100 of them to save a little money on shipping to me (which is likely going to cost about $3 - 5 per unit).
I haven't seen anyone else mention this hub, so I thought I'd speak up. I've had great success with Orico, since they're the ones behind the major favorites like Anker and Satechi.
I believe I've found the holy grail on USB hubs for miners. Orico makes a 10 port USB 2.0 hub (P10-U2), but never advertises is. I just got in contact with my rep, and will be placing a very large order on them. Cost is going to be significantly lower than any other hub on the list on the front of the page. The PSU is 12v/3a, and is a spitting image of the P10-U3 (which ranges in price from $50 - $65 online).
I should be able to sell them for between $25 - $30 USD including shipping. I am planning on buying at least 100 of them to save a little money on shipping to me (which is likely going to cost about $3 - 5 per unit).
I haven't seen anyone else mention this hub, so I thought I'd speak up. I've had great success with Orico, since they're the ones behind the major favorites like Anker and Satechi.
I bought two of these from Amazon under the Anker label w/4A power supplies back in July. They have been going 24/7 since. Only problem is the push/push type power switch tends to stick down in hot weather and needs an occasional tap on the unit to free it up. The 4A supplies get quite warm but not hot, so I might think the 3A units underpowered.
October 14, 2013, 05:18:12 PM
Hi everyone,
I believe I've found the holy grail on USB hubs for miners. Orico makes a 10 port USB 2.0 hub (P10-U2), but never advertises is. I just got in contact with my rep, and will be placing a very large order on them. Cost is going to be significantly lower than any other hub on the list on the front of the page. The PSU is 12v/3a, and is a spitting image of the P10-U3 (which ranges in price from $50 - $65 online).
I should be able to sell them for between $25 - $30 USD including shipping. I am planning on buying at least 100 of them to save a little money on shipping to me (which is likely going to cost about $3 - 5 per unit).
I haven't seen anyone else mention this hub, so I thought I'd speak up. I've had great success with Orico, since they're the ones behind the major favorites like Anker and Satechi.
I believe I've found the holy grail on USB hubs for miners. Orico makes a 10 port USB 2.0 hub (P10-U2), but never advertises is. I just got in contact with my rep, and will be placing a very large order on them. Cost is going to be significantly lower than any other hub on the list on the front of the page. The PSU is 12v/3a, and is a spitting image of the P10-U3 (which ranges in price from $50 - $65 online).
I should be able to sell them for between $25 - $30 USD including shipping. I am planning on buying at least 100 of them to save a little money on shipping to me (which is likely going to cost about $3 - 5 per unit).
I haven't seen anyone else mention this hub, so I thought I'd speak up. I've had great success with Orico, since they're the ones behind the major favorites like Anker and Satechi.
I had one and luckily the powerbrick died just before 30 days so I was able to return it to Amazon and get a very similar one with another brand label on i (looks the same.. maybe antec? cant remember)
Anyway, cool the powerbrick as well as the miners is the lesson
October 14, 2013, 04:14:03 PM
That's what I figured One should consider 0.6A per BE in the calculations
One should consider 0.6A per BE in the calculations October 14, 2013, 11:03:10 AM
edit only able to run 6... 7 was giving too many hw errors
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