Wow, thanks for the update.
It's going to be a good winter 😁
Topic: Who likes pod miners? - page 23. (Read 56018 times)
I may open up orders in a couple weeks, when I'm closer to manufacture (or have already started). I'd like to be a little farther along than I am right now. I currently have exactly two complete prototypes, the firmware is still a work in progress and I don't even have a final BOM laid out yet to get cost estimates.
Your stocking would need to be a bit big. The thing's a rectangle 10x10cm and about 6cm high.
Jeez. I should really figure out how I'm gonna package these things, huh? Maybe stock up on some power bricks and USB cables and stuff.
Jeez. I should really figure out how I'm gonna package these things, huh? Maybe stock up on some power bricks and USB cables and stuff.
Among others, consider these (at $0.5 a pop=$25 for 50 boxes):
https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-Corrugated-Mailer-Length-Height/dp/B00BT59D0I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1507919791&sr=8-4&keywords=shipping%2Bboxes&th=1
I think that 5X5X3in in should be fine as 10x10X6 cm is approx 3.94X3.94X2.35 in inches.
Or bigger (6X6X3?, but for 66c a pop) if you would want to include power bricks and USB.
I was thinking of packing one with a brick and USB cable in a USPS Regional A box, which I can get for free and allows decent room for padding without getting crazy.
Smaller might be nice for folks who don't want a brick. Should make that an option.
Smaller might be nice for folks who don't want a brick. Should make that an option.
To help keep costs down, free is always the best option for simple things like boxes to ship the pods, and the USPS does have a nice array of different size boxes! They will also send you thousands of them via their online order form HERE, or you can pick some up from your local Post Office. The only downside is that you must use Priority Mail when using USPS supplied boxes, but sidehack usually ships Priority Mail anyway.
After looking at the boxes from the link Biodom posted, they reminded me of boxes I used to keep sports cards in as a child. Don't know if you have any local sports card stores in your area, but they will likely have many different size cardboard boxes for dirt cheap. You can also find them online HERE, and probably for even cheaper. If you would like me to look into finding a similar product for the lowest price, I will be more than happy to do some "shopping around" and send you a link after.
Lastly, not sure if you are allowing any type of pre-ordering, but please pencil me in for at least one unit! I can/will pay in advance as well if that helps. Thanks again for yet another GREAT product from sidehack/GekkoScience! Can NOT wait..
So, a few things about the pod.
Looks like it'll have trouble starting up at extreme low voltage, which isn't unexpected because node voltage balance is pretty critical when it's operating near bottom threshold. Balance also comes into play for stable operation. I looked at Bitmain's BM1384 spec and added 10% to the given stable voltage level for any particular frequency for the test which produced the following results:
100MHz (44GH) 660mV/node 2.64V total; 12V 1.4A for 16.8W/0.38J/GH
125MHz (55GH) 660mV/node 2.64V total; 12V 1.7A for 20.4W/0.37J/GH
150MHz (66GH) 660mV/node 2.64V total; 12V 2.0A for 24.0W/0.36J/GH
175MHz (77GH) 693mV/node 2.77V total; 12V 2.5A for 30.0W/0.39J/GH
200MHz (88GH) 715mV/node 2.86V total; 12V 3.1A for 37.2W/0.42J/GH
225MHz (99GH) 755mV/node 3.02V total; 12V 3.8A for 45.6W/0.46J/GH
250MHz (110GH) 770mV/node 3.08V total; 12V 4.4A for 52.8W/0.48J/GH
Might be able to get more than 250MHz out of it if you ask it nicely.
Looks like it'll have trouble starting up at extreme low voltage, which isn't unexpected because node voltage balance is pretty critical when it's operating near bottom threshold. Balance also comes into play for stable operation. I looked at Bitmain's BM1384 spec and added 10% to the given stable voltage level for any particular frequency for the test which produced the following results:
100MHz (44GH) 660mV/node 2.64V total; 12V 1.4A for 16.8W/0.38J/GH
125MHz (55GH) 660mV/node 2.64V total; 12V 1.7A for 20.4W/0.37J/GH
150MHz (66GH) 660mV/node 2.64V total; 12V 2.0A for 24.0W/0.36J/GH
175MHz (77GH) 693mV/node 2.77V total; 12V 2.5A for 30.0W/0.39J/GH
200MHz (88GH) 715mV/node 2.86V total; 12V 3.1A for 37.2W/0.42J/GH
225MHz (99GH) 755mV/node 3.02V total; 12V 3.8A for 45.6W/0.46J/GH
250MHz (110GH) 770mV/node 3.08V total; 12V 4.4A for 52.8W/0.48J/GH
Might be able to get more than 250MHz out of it if you ask it nicely.
As with any miner I've ever built or ever will build, the power draw is adjustable. Top clock will be around 60W, more if you've got a Pi plugged into it. I've bought a better bench supply to test with that'll give me good power readings, so I'll set it up next time I get time - maybe Monday if my 2Pac PCB batch delivery is delayed. I can put up a chart of expected power draws at a variety of frequencies.
Should be able to get around 88GH at 35 watts.
Should be able to get around 88GH at 35 watts.
These are going to be great!
Thanks for the info as well.
As with any miner I've ever built or ever will build, the power draw is adjustable. Top clock will be around 60W, more if you've got a Pi plugged into it. I've bought a better bench supply to test with that'll give me good power readings, so I'll set it up next time I get time - maybe Monday if my 2Pac PCB batch delivery is delayed. I can put up a chart of expected power draws at a variety of frequencies.
Should be able to get around 88GH at 35 watts.
Should be able to get around 88GH at 35 watts.
sounds good to me. thanks for info.
As with any miner I've ever built or ever will build, the power draw is adjustable. Top clock will be around 60W, more if you've got a Pi plugged into it. I've bought a better bench supply to test with that'll give me good power readings, so I'll set it up next time I get time - maybe Monday if my 2Pac PCB batch delivery is delayed. I can put up a chart of expected power draws at a variety of frequencies.
Should be able to get around 88GH at 35 watts.
Should be able to get around 88GH at 35 watts.
Why would you need a barrel adapter? The fact it's got a 6-pin PCIe on it was the subject of discussion about four posts ago. That's been a standard feature - by request - since the first version.
My wife's cousin is sick with emergency heart issues. We were going to party with him on this Sunday
I got the phone call as I was about to answer the guys question and frankly I fucked up.
What power will these draw sidehack?
30-50 watts a pod?
I ask because if they draw 30-35 I can use a quality 2 plug cable with a quality splitter. brings me to 120 -140 watts a cable.
if they use 50 watts I would just do a 2 plug cable and pull 100 for the cable
AWESOME!
Put me down for 4 when available.
Thx sidehack.
Put me down for 4 when available.
Thx sidehack.
Why would you need a barrel adapter? The fact it's got a 6-pin PCIe on it was the subject of discussion about four posts ago. That's been a standard feature - by request - since the first version.
I have a 750w computer psu with 6 pcie would it work for a few of these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/60cm-ATX-PCI-E-Express-6pin-to-6pcs-DC-5-5X2-5mm-Plugs-of-Gridseed-Mini-/161858667969?
this idiot has six most likely only 3 not six will work.
have sidehack confirm
these were 3 to a pcie no longer around
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-PCI-6-Pin-Barrel-Gridseed/dp/B00MAEOCIU
all wrong sorry.
I have a 750w computer psu with 6 pcie would it work for a few of these?
So I know y'all are a "pics or it didn't happen" kind of skeptical about miners, but I can't find the battery charger for my camera. It's somewhere in the mess on my workbench, I'm sure.
Anyways. I have the first Version 0.4 pod miner assembled and working. It's currently hashing away on my test bench, been running 250MHz/110GH for an hour or so on kano (http://www.kano.is/address.php?a=1BURGERAXHH6Yi6LRybRJK7ybEm5m5HwTr). The onboard controller has been removed because, unsurprisingly, the first version firmware didn't work.
I'm not surprised because it was written based on a hand-drawn schematic and a couple datasheets by someone with no access to the actual hardware. Partly because the actual hardware didn't exist until sometime yesterday afternoon.
So right now all I'm really proving is the updated hardware. We've got 12V power from both PCIe and barrel jack, USB-mini for your data connection, and a right-angle USB A (the standard rectangle) tied into local 5V (up to about 2A) for powering a Pi or other external controller. Core voltage is adjustable. There's hardware in place for the onboard controller to automatically reset the ASICs if the string locks up (y'all might recognize this as the "Zombie" condition on the 2Pacs), which isn't uncommon during efficiency tuning. The installed fans are PWM-speed-regulated based on temperature readings. All of this hardware has been tested to work.
So I've got one or two tiny changes to make to the board, mostly to make unit-testing during manufacture easier, and we're off to the races. And by the time I get PCBs back from the board house the controller firmware should be finished and tested. So I figure we'll be mass-producing these about the middle of November.
Now that the design is finalized I'll work up a full BOM so I can get a sale price estimate. And eventually some sweet photo-graphs.
Anyways. I have the first Version 0.4 pod miner assembled and working. It's currently hashing away on my test bench, been running 250MHz/110GH for an hour or so on kano (http://www.kano.is/address.php?a=1BURGERAXHH6Yi6LRybRJK7ybEm5m5HwTr). The onboard controller has been removed because, unsurprisingly, the first version firmware didn't work.
I'm not surprised because it was written based on a hand-drawn schematic and a couple datasheets by someone with no access to the actual hardware. Partly because the actual hardware didn't exist until sometime yesterday afternoon.
So right now all I'm really proving is the updated hardware. We've got 12V power from both PCIe and barrel jack, USB-mini for your data connection, and a right-angle USB A (the standard rectangle) tied into local 5V (up to about 2A) for powering a Pi or other external controller. Core voltage is adjustable. There's hardware in place for the onboard controller to automatically reset the ASICs if the string locks up (y'all might recognize this as the "Zombie" condition on the 2Pacs), which isn't uncommon during efficiency tuning. The installed fans are PWM-speed-regulated based on temperature readings. All of this hardware has been tested to work.
So I've got one or two tiny changes to make to the board, mostly to make unit-testing during manufacture easier, and we're off to the races. And by the time I get PCBs back from the board house the controller firmware should be finished and tested. So I figure we'll be mass-producing these about the middle of November.
Now that the design is finalized I'll work up a full BOM so I can get a sale price estimate. And eventually some sweet photo-graphs.
Nice news for fri the 13 th .
I see it does about 100 gh
What is power draw for the unit 35 watts?
I think I have some pcie to D.C. Jacks,
I can't think of any reason any designer who wasn't an idiot would make you power both jacks.
Not saying that probably hasn't happened, just saying the person who designed it was an idiot.
This thing takes in 12V. Doesn't care which jack you use.
Earlier on there were people speculating about it taking in power via USB and the barrel jack both. That's also a pretty terrible idea so don't bother asking if it's that way either. Runs on 12V. From either barrel or PCIe. Pulls zero power from USB. Sources power to USB on the A jack only.
If it's got the right size end, this thing would absolutely love a 12V/7A brick.
Not saying that probably hasn't happened, just saying the person who designed it was an idiot.
This thing takes in 12V. Doesn't care which jack you use.
Earlier on there were people speculating about it taking in power via USB and the barrel jack both. That's also a pretty terrible idea so don't bother asking if it's that way either. Runs on 12V. From either barrel or PCIe. Pulls zero power from USB. Sources power to USB on the A jack only.
If it's got the right size end, this thing would absolutely love a 12V/7A brick.
Does it need power to both the PCIe and the round jack, or is it an either configuration? I know I have a bunch of leftover 12v/7a gridseed bricks somewhere - seems like using an old pod brick on a new one would be fitting if it’d work.
Yeah but "I got the wrong brick because I didn't bother to read the specs and assumed this one would work and now it's on fire" isn't covered under warranty so it ain't really my problem. But there are folks who probably do have power bricks left over from other things that'd be fully compatible and why should I charge them extra for stuff they don't want or need?
The standard package will have a brick and USB cable, but "no accessories" will be an option for them that want it.
The standard package will have a brick and USB cable, but "no accessories" will be an option for them that want it.
I was thinking of packing one with a brick and USB cable in a USPS Regional A box, which I can get for free and allows decent room for padding without getting crazy.
Smaller might be nice for folks who don't want a brick. Should make that an option.
Smaller might be nice for folks who don't want a brick. Should make that an option.
Sounds great! options are also good but you might have problems when they get the wrong brick and burn something out.
I would leave it standard with brick, I wouldn't mind paying a little extra for a brick and bigger box.
I was thinking of packing one with a brick and USB cable in a USPS Regional A box, which I can get for free and allows decent room for padding without getting crazy.
Smaller might be nice for folks who don't want a brick. Should make that an option.
Smaller might be nice for folks who don't want a brick. Should make that an option.
Your stocking would need to be a bit big. The thing's a rectangle 10x10cm and about 6cm high.
Jeez. I should really figure out how I'm gonna package these things, huh? Maybe stock up on some power bricks and USB cables and stuff.
Jeez. I should really figure out how I'm gonna package these things, huh? Maybe stock up on some power bricks and USB cables and stuff.
Among others, consider these (at $0.5 a pop=$25 for 50 boxes):
https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-Corrugated-Mailer-Length-Height/dp/B00BT59D0I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1507919791&sr=8-4&keywords=shipping%2Bboxes&th=1
I think that 5X5X3in in should be fine as 10x10X6 cm is approx 3.94X3.94X2.35 in inches.
Or bigger (6X6X3?, but for 66c a pop) if you would want to include power bricks and USB.
Your stocking would need to be a bit big. The thing's a rectangle 10x10cm and about 6cm high.
Jeez. I should really figure out how I'm gonna package these things, huh? Maybe stock up on some power bricks and USB cables and stuff.
Jeez. I should really figure out how I'm gonna package these things, huh? Maybe stock up on some power bricks and USB cables and stuff.
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