Topic: ANTMINER S5: 1155GH(+OverClock Potential), In Stock $0.319/GH & 0.51W/GH - page 188. (Read 451277 times)

Antminer Products will run on 208v, power source, as long as the PSU you use supports them.

Most of ATX or server grade PSUs are operational between 100v - 240v.  Then, those PSU will spit out 12v from the PCI-E connectors.

Has anyone published out the wattage draw to frequency settings in a chart for 110v?

Also...

I'm considering adding in additional S5s to some 2 Phase 208v 30 Amp Breakers. I have 4 of these circuits just sitting idle in one of my rooms.

Im a little unfamiliar with 208v to begin with, let alone 2 Phase. If I buy the simple distros for the sockets, use EVGA g2 1300w PSUs, how many could I plug in and feed of a 30a 208v 2 Phase?

Thanks!

Strato

Unfortunately, the only way Bitmain gave us to turn them off is to turn off the PSU. Yes, it does seem wrong and I hate doing it every time I need to. 

Thanks dogie and biodom!

I think I'm gonna get one of those nf-12. I need the miner a bit more quiet at a longer distance. I can hear it from in my kitchen which is down stairs and around the corner from my stairs and the miner is literally at the top of the stairs. I don't mind hearing it if I'm by my desk or walking up the stairs but not throughout the house. Thanks for letting me know that they are not quiet but from a distance they are not noticeable.

Dogie,

Thanks for the hardware error explaination. So a few hardware errors is almost expected when temps climb, but when hardware errors climb exponetionally, it's a problem. I've cranked the miner up to 300Mhz or about 1Th/s. Temps went up to 61 and 57. Within an hour I got 1 hardware error. It's been at this setting now for almost three hours and still at 1 hw. I like your range of 60-65c it's more realistic to real computing.

Another question...

How do you shut these miners down to say replace a fan or move the miner? Mine came with an antminer motherboard switch. Being a computer geek, I hate just cutting the power. Somehow it feels wrong, but is that what your supposed to do? Just kill the power either with the red antminer switch or the psu switch? Doing this a couple of time switching out fans to try them with temp control lead one board to not respond during initial boot. It was only after full boot and a restart that the board came back online. I can't find a shutdown or turn off setting anywhere, so how dose the rest of you power down your miner for either maintenence or changing a fan?

with  a good old evga 1300 g2 acting as the lube . (well the power source)

@huffdaddy5,

Please check your PM regarding the S5 control PCB.

Thanks for the Ant Porn!!!   

Thank you

Well I've got my 2 S5's running together. Literally. Looks like 1 of my controller boards is not working properly, so I decided that I would make both of my S5's run off of the same controller card.

Here is my Status page showing both S5's running off the same controller board. The temps are little warm but I'm adjusting some fans and I'm powering my fan's externally.
http://www.411px.com/2xS5.jpg

And here is some true to it's name S5 miner porn.
http://www.411px.com/S5porn.jpg

Funny how everyone is worried that the temp figures are out by 5-10C.
The goal being to get the overall temp reading below 60C.
Like dogie mentioned. There could easily be a 15C difference between the BM1384 and the temp reading.
Same as any car. The temp gauge is not reading the engine temp but rather the coolant temp. That sensor is not sitting on the block but in the radiator.
Is the sensor doing its job? Is the engine still running without 'hardware' issues?
My concern is the power regulators. My S1 runs @ 48-51C. The top right corner of the blades have temp readings of 74C.
I suspect I shall have a similar situation when the S5 arrives.
 
 

That's a crit temperature so there's likely to be a safety margin still within that. Say, 15C. So 80C = 110C and 55C = 85C. It could even be lower as the 80C threshold is arbitrary and more of a 'something is wrong if its got this hot' limit.

I would think the actual temperatures may be even higher, as the data sheet for the BM1384 states a max. operating temperature of 125° Celsius.

Probably in the 80s, its hard to tell. I'll see if I can measure the external chip temp at least when I'm next in there.

Hi Eddie,

You're questions are valid, no problem answering them.

1) Hardware errors are only a 'concern' when they become a tangible amount of mining. Historically that was 1-2% but on this generation its more like 0.2-0.3%. You're a long long way away from them being a problem.
2) 80C is considered a critical temperature, where as its recommended to remain below 60-65C in order to increase longevity and reduce the chances of premature failure.

I can't directly answer your question, but I've tested closing top and bottom off. It moves temps ~1.5C, not record breaking, and that's SEALED top and bottom rather than more plates which won't seal.



I would have thought that you're losing more in GPU depreciation than you're mining, surely? What coin are you on?

Noctua NF-12 description says 41db, but the actual dB emitting from this fan are more like 55-56dB at 1ft distance.
It is tolerable in the same office at 2-5ft distance, but I would certainly not call it quiet.
In another room 20 or more ft away-it is totally fine even with an open door (barely discernible)

Ok, so like most temp sensors, there is a variance and to error on the side of hot is better. Ok so my s5 running at 55 and 58 are probably running more like 60 and 65. But hardware errors? What causes them to occur and why would they occur at temps in the safe zone with no overclock, underclock say at 275Mhz? The miner still functions with hardware errors and they are less frequent than with my antminer U3. I guess the goal is 0 hardware errors =stability but 0 hardware errors = cooler temps in the below 60c range and that is where fans come in.

Unlike the Spondoolies or Hashfast chips (or your CPU) the S5s don't have a thermal diode right on the chip. The temperature sensor is on the back side of the board, and so is really measuring the temperature of the PCB. It's unknown (at least to me) what a good rule of thumb is for mapping die temperature to the temp sensor reading, but it's pretty much guaranteed to be a decent bit higher than what the unit says.

I actually looked at that but, as you correctly point out, since it did not have the exact model number, I discounted it .... seems correct though.

..... laser tachometer ... I hate giving negative answers, but, no I don't have one. On a positive note though, yes you are right by implication that I do not get any RPM readings on either of the rigs I run the TA500DC fans on (could not get one connecting the orange or other wire ... must be something I did wrong!)

Back to fans. Noctura nf-f12 is supposed to be a quiet 120mm with speeds up to 3000rpm. From reading all this, noise is the issue but you have to decide if you want speed or noise. The faster the s5 hashes the louder the fan because in order to keep the s5 in working temps (below 60) you have to push a lot of air and have the s5 is an ideal location. If you want a quiet fan then you need to sacrifice hash speed because the air displacement from fan has to exceed the heat generated to keep the s5 cool. This has been my struggle.

But I can't figure out why the s5 needs to be below 60c? Most computers run at or over 60c. The over temp cutoff is software set at 80c. I do get some hw but over a 12 hr period and from what Ive read some hw is ok but when does it become an issue?

It's the one below the one I posted, though it doesn't have the exact model as the one in the auction.
http://www.nidecpg.com/fanpdfs/c2003_4747.pdf
You don't happen to have a laser tachometer you could use to measure the RPM, do you?

Just looked at the directory of the datasheets and it seems there is no datasheet for the TA500DC .... probably these were made on order for Compaq only?! The only ones I've ever seen are all branded with the Compaq tag ..... so that may be the case.

Datasheet directory link: http://www.nidecpg.com/fanpdfs/ (from your link above).

But hey, you can pick this fan up for ~ $5 + shipping and the resistor for the mod is ~ $1 ...... who needs a datasheet?