Avalon ASIC users thread - page 92. | Bitcointalksearch.org

bitdude

sr. member

Activity: 277

Merit: 254

Quote from: thejestre on August 20, 2013, 09:26:04 PM

Quote from: bitdude on August 20, 2013, 02:16:36 AM

So, I am running late Batch 2 with 20130703. Will flashing to the latest version increase hash rate?
Thanks!

The 20130818 firmware increased my speed by at least 1 GH/s consistently, so I'd say choose that one or later to flash.

Thanks. I went for 20130820 and I can confirm your measurements! It is +1GH on 3 module Batch 2 machine.
24 hours uptime with avg. 82.876 GH and it was 81.8 avg. before the update.

DeathAndTaxes

donator

Activity: 1218

Merit: 1079

Gerald Davis

Quote from: jermwerty on August 20, 2013, 12:04:52 AM

Personally I am about to order one of these, as I am in your same boat (950W at the wall on a 910W PC Power & Cooling - hoping it doesn't fry with calculated 840W actual load, but 12V rail is still 12.2 so I think I'm good...) on my 4-module:

PSU are rated on DC load. So a 910W PC P&C means it has a peak load of 910W DC. If 90% efficient at 100% load that would mean 910W DC = 1,011W AC (910/0.9).

950W AC = 855W DC (950W*0.9)

I assumed 90% but you should look up efficiency curve for your PSU. If you cant find one and it is an "80Plus" rated unit you can check the 80Plus website. They have test which show efficiency at 100% load.

Ghost of USD

newbie

Activity: 31

Merit: 0

I have a batch 3 unit and replaced the PSU with one slightly too long to fit.

I'm running it now with the rear panel removed, and it actually runs about 5 degrees cooler than before.

Bogart

legendary

Activity: 966

Merit: 1000

Quote from: jermwerty on August 20, 2013, 08:48:29 PM

Quote from: greaterninja on August 20, 2013, 03:02:46 AM

Actually turns out the 850watt didn't burn out. After 2 weeks, I think it overheated and shutoff when my ac was turned off. ... Still though, I ordered a corsair hx 1050 gold to serve as primary psu.

Well that is good to hear! Just FYI the Corsair HX 1050 is about 1cm too long to fit inside. That's why I was hoping the V1000 would fit, but I am not sure if all the connectors will clear. It may work with using 2 out of the 3 PCI-E cables, not sure. Any problem with leaving just PCI-E 3 disconnected? Not sure how the power board distributes power.

I put a HX1050 in my Batch 1 unit. I removed the PDU to install the power supply. Then I reinstalled the PDU after all the cables were attached. I removed the side panel which made things easier.

Do not leave any inputs disconnected from the PDU. You may well melt the connected wires as they are unable to carry the amperage the unit is drawing, and overheat.

Mine takes the 24-pin EATX connector, the 8-pin CPU Power connector, and 2 8-pin PCIe connectors. Later batches may be different, I don't know.

thejestre

member

Activity: 76

Merit: 10

Quote from: bitdude on August 20, 2013, 02:16:36 AM

So, I am running late Batch 2 with 20130703. Will flashing to the latest version increase hash rate?
Thanks!

The 20130818 firmware increased my speed by at least 1 GH/s consistently, so I'd say choose that one or later to flash.

jermwerty

sr. member

Activity: 472

Merit: 250

Quote from: greaterninja on August 20, 2013, 03:02:46 AM

Actually turns out the 850watt didn't burn out. After 2 weeks, I think it overheated and shutoff when my ac was turned off. ... Still though, I ordered a corsair hx 1050 gold to serve as primary psu.

Well that is good to hear! Just FYI the Corsair HX 1050 is about 1cm too long to fit inside. That's why I was hoping the V1000 would fit, but I am not sure if all the connectors will clear. It may work with using 2 out of the 3 PCI-E cables, not sure. Any problem with leaving just PCI-E 3 disconnected? Not sure how the power board distributes power.

candoo

hero member

Activity: 602

Merit: 500

Vertrau in Gott

Hey,

did anyone manage to install the avalon openwrt firmware on a TP-Link TL-MR3020 ?

ProfMac

legendary

Activity: 1246

Merit: 1002

Quote from: phoenikx on August 20, 2013, 09:24:10 AM

Quote

I used the re-flashed retail unit with no hardware modification for an hour or so. The mini-USB supplied power. The Avalon USB plugged into the side. I removed one of the screws from the top of the Avalon and fed the USB cable through the slot, and mounted the TP-Link outside the case.

I later modified this unit, I removed a 0R resistor to disconnect the internal antenna, and added a 0R resistor to backfeed power from the Avalon USB connector, and added the antenna, and replaced the dead internal unit, and closed it all up.

Does the blue light stay on with your TP-Link? If you push the reset button while it is starting up, does the blue LED flash about twice/second?
Are you trying to connect via the LAN jack? I think the WiFi has to be configured.

Can't the original TP-link be send to TP-link for reflashing? Maybe for a small fee or so?

There is a serial connection on the board of the TP-Link to do a serial boot. The OpenWRT community is very familiar with this process. The gotcha with the TP-Link is that those traces are very fragile, and if someone tacks wires to it and does not provide strain relief, they will rip the traces off the board.

I might be willing to sell a spare 703n flashed with the ckolvias latest release firmware, and to buy a distressed unit. Shipping would cost almost as much as a buying a new unit, then there is my time, so I am an expensive, last resort option.

NiteShdw

member

Activity: 69

Merit: 10

Quote from: William Reed on August 20, 2013, 01:00:01 PM

Is there any significant (>1%) performance difference between 20130703 and 20130819 (or 20)? I'm trying to keep the reflashing to a minimum.
Are there changelogs somewhere for ckolivas' firmwares?

I just upgraded last night and my "--avalon-auto" clocks are up at least 5mhz. My pool is reporting my workers running at 260GH/s versus 242GH/s before the upgrade.

William Reed

newbie

Activity: 15

Merit: 0

Is there any significant (>1%) performance difference between 20130703 and 20130819 (or 20)? I'm trying to keep the reflashing to a minimum.
Are there changelogs somewhere for ckolivas' firmwares?

GenTarkin

legendary

Activity: 2450

Merit: 1002

Quote from: GandalfG on August 16, 2013, 12:12:04 PM

Quote from: GenTarkin on August 16, 2013, 10:49:02 AM

Quote from: GandalfG on August 16, 2013, 06:00:44 AM

Quote from: S M I L Y on August 15, 2013, 10:58:23 PM

Thanks lastbit and GandalfG for the info. I have access to a nice 12ghz oscilloscope and will take noise and ripple measurements of the output of the VR and see if it gets unstable past 20a.

Just took some measurements. At the top of the board closest to the VR im seeing 1.2v at the bottom im seeing 1.15v! Im surprised to see so much of a drop! They must have cheeped out on the amount of copper on the board.

I measure my board with my 100MHz oscilloscope with 1.3V mod and did not see noise on power lines. I check it now after over 10 days mining.
About drop:
Standby: 1.298V
395MHz:
1.278 on coil VR and nearest capacitor
1.268 first two chip
1.228 last chip.

I solder silver-plated wire 0,8mm across one board and check how its help.

Have any amps / watts per board power measurement?
Also, was this a b2 or b3? Did they change anything on the b3 miner boards?

I did not measure amps. It is Avalon clone based on B2 design that I build self. Buy PCB and parts from Strombom.
Actually have only 50 chip and patiently wait for supply from Bitsyncom.

Quote from: S M I L Y on August 16, 2013, 11:57:53 AM

Quote from: lastbit on August 16, 2013, 07:00:46 AM

50mv drop is horrible!

adding a couple thick wires from the output of the VR to the last chips should help a lot. although the problem could be a return path issue. I dont have my unit in front of me at the moment. I assume the bottom layer is Ground and the top is VCC? There may be an issue with the ground vias/pins not being able to handle the current.

Yes that huge drops are very undesirable. As I stated I solder wire and make measure again. I'm a little surprised that the original B1/B2 have a similar problem.
How about B3 machines that have changed design ? I see on one photos hash unit are probably grouped in 4 on one PCB and added thermal sensor on it.

Hey, do you have results of the wire mod improvement on voltage? dont recall seeing them...

loshia

legendary

Activity: 1610

Merit: 1000

Quote from: greaterninja on August 19, 2013, 11:03:18 PM

One of my Batch #3 Avalon stopped hashing Solid Red light and flashes an Orange light every few seconds.

I can remote into it, however fans and hashing is at 0.

Turns out my 850w Seasonic Gold PS burned out A/C went out for a few hours too :/ Overclocked at 358mhz on 4 modules. I am going to RMA it and buy a 1000-1300watt gold PS.

Luckily I bought a 750watt bronze and I disconnected the 4th module to get it up.

Be prepared for 750watt bronze blast soon

Now seriously - the idea to drive your PSU at 85% load and higher is not good at all. Just a friendly advise:

for 750W 320-330mhz MAX otherwise make sure you have third PSU around Wink

And no matter what CPU are you buying just make sure that 12V real can drive at least 80A enough for 4 modules at 350+ with a nice safety reserve

phoenikx

newbie

Activity: 44

Merit: 0

Quote

I used the re-flashed retail unit with no hardware modification for an hour or so. The mini-USB supplied power. The Avalon USB plugged into the side. I removed one of the screws from the top of the Avalon and fed the USB cable through the slot, and mounted the TP-Link outside the case.

I later modified this unit, I removed a 0R resistor to disconnect the internal antenna, and added a 0R resistor to backfeed power from the Avalon USB connector, and added the antenna, and replaced the dead internal unit, and closed it all up.

Does the blue light stay on with your TP-Link? If you push the reset button while it is starting up, does the blue LED flash about twice/second?
Are you trying to connect via the LAN jack? I think the WiFi has to be configured.

Can't the original TP-link be send to TP-link for reflashing? Maybe for a small fee or so?

ProfMac

legendary

Activity: 1246

Merit: 1002

Quote from: yantis on August 20, 2013, 01:36:01 AM

I tried this today with a TP-LINK TL-WR703N 20130703 but it looks like it bricked it. After the flash I couldn't connect to it at all. Also, unlike the routers in the Avalons or a Raspberry PI it required an external power supply to work but when I used it the Avalon wouldn't power up at all. Am I missing a hardware mod or something?

Quote from: ProfMac on August 14, 2013, 10:12:49 AM

Quote from: yantis on August 14, 2013, 09:22:13 AM

Was happily running 20130703 since release with no issues at all. Highly recommended (on 20 or so units - batch 1 and 2, on my batch 3's I just run stock because of the temp sensor change etc). I saw the new firmware and decided to give it a shot on a batch 1 and it bricked it. No reset or nothing could get it back.

I figured no problem. I picked up some extra TL-MR3020 to replace the TP-LINK TL-WR703N router but those didn't flash and in the end I gave up on messing with that (from what I can tell you need a custom one or something).

A retail TP-Link 703n can be found on eBay or Amazon for about $20. It can be flashed with the 20130703 firmware, and then plugged into the USB cable inside the Avalon. The LAN cable or WiFi can be used to access it. It has a mini-USB power cable. I ran a for-repair Avalon a few hours this way before I got the soldering iron and made a permanent repair.

I used the re-flashed retail unit with no hardware modification for an hour or so. The mini-USB supplied power. The Avalon USB plugged into the side. I removed one of the screws from the top of the Avalon and fed the USB cable through the slot, and mounted the TP-Link outside the case.

I later modified this unit, I removed a 0R resistor to disconnect the internal antenna, and added a 0R resistor to backfeed power from the Avalon USB connector, and added the antenna, and replaced the dead internal unit, and closed it all up.

Does the blue light stay on with your TP-Link? If you push the reset button while it is starting up, does the blue LED flash about twice/second?
Are you trying to connect via the LAN jack? I think the WiFi has to be configured.

greaterninja

hero member

Activity: 924

Merit: 1000

Quote from: jermwerty on August 20, 2013, 12:04:52 AM

Quote from: greaterninja on August 19, 2013, 11:03:18 PM

One of my Batch #3 Avalon stopped hashing Solid Red light and flashes an Orange light every few seconds.

I can remote into it, however fans and hashing is at 0.

Turns out my 850w Seasonic Gold PS burned out A/C went out for a few hours too :/ Overclocked at 358mhz on 4 modules. I am going to RMA it and buy a 1000-1300watt gold PS.

Luckily I bought a 750watt bronze and I disconnected the 4th module to get it up.

Ouch. Sorry man. Pulling 980W+ at the wall on a 850W PSU just isn't good, regardless of "Seasonic or not". Can't say I didn't warn ya though:

Quote from: jermwerty on August 15, 2013, 01:31:47 PM

Quote from: greaterninja on August 10, 2013, 09:47:21 PM

Batch#: 3
Modules:4
PowerSupply: 850w Seasonic Gold Modular
[Firmware Version] => 20130723
Chip Frequency(Default: Advance): 350(insane); 354 is actual read out.

Umm....

850W with 4 modules at 350+mhz?

I hope you have another PS laying around for when this one goes up in smoke.

For comparison, I have a good 910W PS on a B3 @ 325mhz and it pulls ~915W from the wall, a 65W increase from 300mhz which was 850. My estimates put 350Mhz B3 4 module at 980W give or take from the wall, or basically you need a 1KW+ supply guaranteed!

Personally I am about to order one of these, as I am in your same boat (950W at the wall on a 910W PC Power & Cooling - hoping it doesn't fry with calculated 840W actual load, but 12V rail is still 12.2 so I think I'm good...) on my 4-module:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171078

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=344

FYI the 1300W Rosewill is too large to go inside a Batch 3 Avalon. I am hoping the v1000 will fit.

Actually turns out the 850watt didn't burn out. After 2 weeks, I think it overheated and shutoff when my ac was turned off. I hooked it up to another system and it runs fine. Funny shit crashes when my gf gets back in town and stays home... I told my gf to keep the ac 73-78f. Still though, I ordered a corsair hx 1050 gold to serve as primary psu.

knite

newbie

Activity: 33

Merit: 0

I recently purchased a batch 2 3-module. I've been running it for a couple of days and have some questions. I've done a bit of searching in this thread, and haven't been able to find definitive answers. I'm sure the answers are somewhere inside these 132 pages, so I apologize for adding to the clutter.

I'm currently using the following settings string: --avalon-options 115200:24:10:d:355 --avalon-auto --avalon-freq 256-375 --avalon-temp 55.

- Do I need to add a cutoff setting as well or make any other changes?
- Is the avalon-auto flag expected to "just work" and produce the best possible result (errors, temperature, etc)?
- How do I calculate my "true" hashrate, so I can compare against my reported hashrate in my mining pool?
- Are there any monitoring tools I can setup for my miner? I'd like to set it and forget it, and receive an email if it goes offline, stops mining, or has a significant drop in hashrate.
- Is there a way to upgrade the miner by adding a fourth module?
- Should I upgrade the stock PSU?

bitdude

sr. member

Activity: 277

Merit: 254

So, I am running late Batch 2 with 20130703. Will flashing to the latest version increase hash rate?
Thanks!

yantis

member

Activity: 110

Merit: 11

I tried this today with a TP-LINK TL-WR703N 20130703 but it looks like it bricked it. After the flash I couldn't connect to it at all. Also, unlike the routers in the Avalons or a Raspberry PI it required an external power supply to work but when I used it the Avalon wouldn't power up at all. Am I missing a hardware mod or something?

Quote from: ProfMac on August 14, 2013, 10:12:49 AM

Quote from: yantis on August 14, 2013, 09:22:13 AM

Was happily running 20130703 since release with no issues at all. Highly recommended (on 20 or so units - batch 1 and 2, on my batch 3's I just run stock because of the temp sensor change etc). I saw the new firmware and decided to give it a shot on a batch 1 and it bricked it. No reset or nothing could get it back.

I figured no problem. I picked up some extra TL-MR3020 to replace the TP-LINK TL-WR703N router but those didn't flash and in the end I gave up on messing with that (from what I can tell you need a custom one or something).

A retail TP-Link 703n can be found on eBay or Amazon for about $20. It can be flashed with the 20130703 firmware, and then plugged into the USB cable inside the Avalon. The LAN cable or WiFi can be used to access it. It has a mini-USB power cable. I ran a for-repair Avalon a few hours this way before I got the soldering iron and made a permanent repair.

jermwerty

sr. member

Activity: 472

Merit: 250

Quote from: greaterninja on August 19, 2013, 11:03:18 PM

One of my Batch #3 Avalon stopped hashing Solid Red light and flashes an Orange light every few seconds.

I can remote into it, however fans and hashing is at 0.

Turns out my 850w Seasonic Gold PS burned out A/C went out for a few hours too :/ Overclocked at 358mhz on 4 modules. I am going to RMA it and buy a 1000-1300watt gold PS.

Luckily I bought a 750watt bronze and I disconnected the 4th module to get it up.

Ouch. Sorry man. Pulling 980W+ at the wall on a 850W PSU just isn't good, regardless of "Seasonic or not". Can't say I didn't warn ya though:

Quote from: jermwerty on August 15, 2013, 01:31:47 PM

Quote from: greaterninja on August 10, 2013, 09:47:21 PM

Batch#: 3
Modules:4
PowerSupply: 850w Seasonic Gold Modular
[Firmware Version] => 20130723
Chip Frequency(Default: Advance): 350(insane); 354 is actual read out.

Umm....

850W with 4 modules at 350+mhz?

I hope you have another PS laying around for when this one goes up in smoke.

For comparison, I have a good 910W PS on a B3 @ 325mhz and it pulls ~915W from the wall, a 65W increase from 300mhz which was 850. My estimates put 350Mhz B3 4 module at 980W give or take from the wall, or basically you need a 1KW+ supply guaranteed!

Personally I am about to order one of these, as I am in your same boat (950W at the wall on a 910W PC Power & Cooling - hoping it doesn't fry with calculated 840W actual load, but 12V rail is still 12.2 so I think I'm good...) on my 4-module:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171078

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=344

FYI the 1300W Rosewill is too large to go inside a Batch 3 Avalon. I am hoping the v1000 will fit.

greaterninja

hero member

Activity: 924

Merit: 1000

Quote from: greaterninja on August 19, 2013, 11:03:18 PM

One of my Batch #3 Avalon stopped hashing Solid Red light and flashes an Orange light every few seconds.

I can remote into it, however fans and hashing is at 0.

Turns out my 850w Seasonic Gold PS burned out A/C went out for a few hours too :/ Overclocked at 358mhz on 4 modules. I am going to RMA it and buy a 1000-1300watt gold PS.

Luckily I bought a 750watt bronze and I disconnected the 4th module to get it up.

Topic: Avalon ASIC users thread - page 92. (Read 438516 times)