re question I was asked re cgminer-gekko, here was the answer:
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1173963.msg14421673;topicseen#msg14421673
however, vh has a new driver, which is apparently better.
it is on the 2pac support thread.
Topic: GekkoScience Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread - page 10. (Read 268015 times)
February 11, 2017, 01:15:22 AM
February 06, 2017, 01:16:10 AM
If you got a decent soldering iron, buy an $8 hub off eBay and beef up the rails. That's how I get powered hubs.
Or do that thing he just said.
I've always wondered how people do that... I have a cheap soldering iron but I don't want to break anything. Do you have any instructions on how to do this? I have plenty of hubs and one more powered hub couldn't hurt.Or do that thing he just said.
I googled:"more power usb hub soldering" and that came up as the 4th link...
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/modifying-a-usb-hub-for-extra-power-and-i-did-it-showoff-thread-1152953
February 04, 2017, 05:25:51 PM
If you got a decent soldering iron, buy an $8 hub off eBay and beef up the rails. That's how I get powered hubs.
Or do that thing he just said.
I've always wondered how people do that... I have a cheap soldering iron but I don't want to break anything. Do you have any instructions on how to do this? I have plenty of hubs and one more powered hub couldn't hurt. Or do that thing he just said.
February 04, 2017, 04:17:21 PM
If you got a decent soldering iron, buy an $8 hub off eBay and beef up the rails. That's how I get powered hubs.
Or do that thing he just said.
Or do that thing he just said.
February 04, 2017, 04:16:02 PM
What would be the max frequency and voltage I could set on the compact with just a single USB 3.0 port? I'm just a broke college student so I can't really afford to invest in a $200 powered USB hub, and I know I could achieve a similar effect with a Y-cable in terms of current, but it'll be a while before I could get one.
You could try using the sixty watt Superbpag ones that only cost 36 bucks with prime on amazon- they're nice and reliable and you won't have to worry about power draw unless you have more than five compacs. I think you can get around 400mhz with aquedate cooling with a Y cord; I run my gekko at 350 on a Y cable. February 04, 2017, 03:18:53 PM
What would be the max frequency and voltage I could set on the compact with just a single USB 3.0 port? I'm just a broke college student so I can't really afford to invest in a $200 powered USB hub, and I know I could achieve a similar effect with a Y-cable in terms of current, but it'll be a while before I could get one.
February 04, 2017, 02:00:51 PM
yeah I did 2 bridges and then a y-cable getting me in the 440 range a year ago.
I was lazy I did not want to swap heat sink.
this black hub on eBay is a beast I have the older silver version mine gives 0.9-1.1 amps and 2.2 amps with the bridges I have mine is usb 2.0 the black one is usb 3.0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eyeboot-19-Port-40A-USB-3-0-Hub-110-240V-2-amps-per-port-/351720554389?
The black 3.0 hub can deliver 2 amps per port when fully loaded quite nicely. Also available on Amazon with free shipping for USA:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EB33JOK
http://www.eyeboot.com/19-port-usb3
does the silver and black hub have identical spacing if they do I can use the bridge to go beyond 2 amps.
looking down the road for max power available.
February 04, 2017, 07:55:57 AM
Would it be safe to say solder a 4-pin molex to the usb board/pads on the compact and plug that directly into an ATX2 PSU with only the 5v+ and -ground pins populated as long as the USB connector had the + and - cut? Or would it need the - ground on the USB cable left intact?
you just isolate the 5v. ground stays connected.
February 04, 2017, 03:28:18 AM
yeah I did 2 bridges and then a y-cable getting me in the 440 range a year ago.
I was lazy I did not want to swap heat sink.
this black hub on eBay is a beast I have the older silver version mine gives 0.9-1.1 amps and 2.2 amps with the bridges I have mine is usb 2.0 the black one is usb 3.0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eyeboot-19-Port-40A-USB-3-0-Hub-110-240V-2-amps-per-port-/351720554389?
The black 3.0 hub can deliver 2 amps per port when fully loaded quite nicely. Also available on Amazon with free shipping for USA:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EB33JOK
http://www.eyeboot.com/19-port-usb3
February 04, 2017, 01:55:05 AM
As Biodom mentioned, a larger heatsink will also do a better job of cooling when you get into high power ranges. Somewhere in here I posted a mechanical diagram of the heatsink which gives screw positions if an overclocker wants to make his own heatsink. There are also several examples of over-spec heatsinks posted throughout.
Note that the Compac heatsink actually has 8 fins. I wasn't really specifying the profile so much as the dimensions.
February 03, 2017, 11:38:25 PM
Would it be safe to say solder a 4-pin molex to the usb board/pads on the compact and plug that directly into an ATX2 PSU with only the 5v+ and -ground pins populated as long as the USB connector had the + and - cut? Or would it need the - ground on the USB cable left intact?
February 03, 2017, 11:04:45 PM
Maybe. Does it have any active parts or does it just link two jack "rails" and only send data down one? Also is the spacing the same between the hub it was built for and the one you want to use a 4A bridge with?
I should probably one of these days get back around to my high-power-handling hub project. Maybe if 2Pac assembly goes smoother than expected, but that's going to depend a lot on whether or not the guy helping starts being more effective.
I should probably one of these days get back around to my high-power-handling hub project. Maybe if 2Pac assembly goes smoother than expected, but that's going to depend a lot on whether or not the guy helping starts being more effective.
February 03, 2017, 09:04:26 PM
For extreme overclocking I definitely recommend VH's new cgminer driver over Novak's. The original ramp code, while still better than nothing, was still pretty hard on the works as far as step current is concerned (which can cause the USB voltage to bottom out or trip the voltage controller and break hashing). VH's new driver exactly emulates the S5's smooth linear power increase and should make hitting the high frequencies quite a bit easier.
The new 2Pac also has hardware improvements to isolate the buck controller from voltage ripple resulting from high power use by the ASICs, so with both that and the better driver overclocking on those is a breeze. I hacked a basic version of this into "Max", the uber-test-Compac we pushed almost to 500MHz back in the day.
As Biodom mentioned, a larger heatsink will also do a better job of cooling when you get into high power ranges. Somewhere in here I posted a mechanical diagram of the heatsink which gives screw positions if an overclocker wants to make his own heatsink. There are also several examples of over-spec heatsinks posted throughout.
The new 2Pac also has hardware improvements to isolate the buck controller from voltage ripple resulting from high power use by the ASICs, so with both that and the better driver overclocking on those is a breeze. I hacked a basic version of this into "Max", the uber-test-Compac we pushed almost to 500MHz back in the day.
As Biodom mentioned, a larger heatsink will also do a better job of cooling when you get into high power ranges. Somewhere in here I posted a mechanical diagram of the heatsink which gives screw positions if an overclocker wants to make his own heatsink. There are also several examples of over-spec heatsinks posted throughout.
Sidehack if I ship a bridge could you make one that handles 4 amps?
I would use it with the new black eyeboot usb hub.
No rush but I am thinking down the road if you make bf sticks.
February 03, 2017, 08:53:30 PM
For extreme overclocking I definitely recommend VH's new cgminer driver over Novak's. The original ramp code, while still better than nothing, was still pretty hard on the works as far as step current is concerned (which can cause the USB voltage to bottom out or trip the voltage controller and break hashing). VH's new driver exactly emulates the S5's smooth linear power increase and should make hitting the high frequencies quite a bit easier.
The new 2Pac also has hardware improvements to isolate the buck controller from voltage ripple resulting from high power use by the ASICs, so with both that and the better driver overclocking on those is a breeze. I hacked a basic version of this into "Max", the uber-test-Compac we pushed almost to 500MHz back in the day.
As Biodom mentioned, a larger heatsink will also do a better job of cooling when you get into high power ranges. Somewhere in here I posted a mechanical diagram of the heatsink which gives screw positions if an overclocker wants to make his own heatsink. There are also several examples of over-spec heatsinks posted throughout.
The new 2Pac also has hardware improvements to isolate the buck controller from voltage ripple resulting from high power use by the ASICs, so with both that and the better driver overclocking on those is a breeze. I hacked a basic version of this into "Max", the uber-test-Compac we pushed almost to 500MHz back in the day.
As Biodom mentioned, a larger heatsink will also do a better job of cooling when you get into high power ranges. Somewhere in here I posted a mechanical diagram of the heatsink which gives screw positions if an overclocker wants to make his own heatsink. There are also several examples of over-spec heatsinks posted throughout.
February 03, 2017, 05:41:19 PM
Thanks guys I'm understanding all this now. I've been playing around with the clock settings and voltage, and after dialing the voltage to .77V (I don't have a voltmeter on me so that's based off the picture at the beginning of this thread) I was able to hold 300 MHz for ten minutes before the stick seemingly crashed and couldn't be recognized as a device by both cgminer and Windows. After unplugging it for a little bit I got it working again and it's been humming along at 290MHz with no issues for well over an hour now.
I've seen plenty of posts where people get their compacs to run at 20GH/s (I'm sitting at 15GH/s) so I'm wondering what I'd need to do to get it there without crashing. Do I need to dial up the voltage more? Or is the current draw insufficient (I have it in a 3.0 USB port on the front of my desktop)?
I've seen plenty of posts where people get their compacs to run at 20GH/s (I'm sitting at 15GH/s) so I'm wondering what I'd need to do to get it there without crashing. Do I need to dial up the voltage more? Or is the current draw insufficient (I have it in a 3.0 USB port on the front of my desktop)?
few things:
1. Y-USB connector (or a bracket that phil shows in his pics), so you bring power from two or more USB slots to one stick.
2. Intense cooling (I had a Vornado fan at full blast at a 5-10 inch distance). A very large custom heatsink would probably do it as well.
3. Slowly dialing up frequency at 800 mv (i got it up to 435 Mhz for 24 Gh)
check this out:
https://i.imgur.com/WVfQw3j.png
Trying this can fry your stick; I am not responsible, proceed with caution.
yeah I did 2 bridges and then a y-cable getting me in the 440 range a year ago.
I was lazy I did not want to swap heat sink.
this black hub on eBay is a beast I have the older silver version mine gives 0.9-1.1 amps and 2.2 amps with the bridges I have mine is usb 2.0 the black one is usb 3.0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eyeboot-19-Port-40A-USB-3-0-Hub-110-240V-2-amps-per-port-/351720554389?
February 03, 2017, 05:26:22 PM
Thanks guys I'm understanding all this now. I've been playing around with the clock settings and voltage, and after dialing the voltage to .77V (I don't have a voltmeter on me so that's based off the picture at the beginning of this thread) I was able to hold 300 MHz for ten minutes before the stick seemingly crashed and couldn't be recognized as a device by both cgminer and Windows. After unplugging it for a little bit I got it working again and it's been humming along at 290MHz with no issues for well over an hour now.
I've seen plenty of posts where people get their compacs to run at 20GH/s (I'm sitting at 15GH/s) so I'm wondering what I'd need to do to get it there without crashing. Do I need to dial up the voltage more? Or is the current draw insufficient (I have it in a 3.0 USB port on the front of my desktop)?
I've seen plenty of posts where people get their compacs to run at 20GH/s (I'm sitting at 15GH/s) so I'm wondering what I'd need to do to get it there without crashing. Do I need to dial up the voltage more? Or is the current draw insufficient (I have it in a 3.0 USB port on the front of my desktop)?
few things:
1. Y-USB connector (or a bracket that phil shows in his pics), so you bring power from two or more USB slots to one stick.
2. Intense cooling (I had a Vornado fan at full blast at a 5-10 inch distance). A very large custom heatsink would probably do it as well.
3. Slowly dialing up frequency at 800 mv (i got it up to 435 Mhz for 24 Gh)
check this out:
https://i.imgur.com/WVfQw3j.png
Trying this can fry your stick; I am not responsible, proceed with caution.
February 03, 2017, 04:49:37 PM
Thanks guys I'm understanding all this now. I've been playing around with the clock settings and voltage, and after dialing the voltage to .77V (I don't have a voltmeter on me so that's based off the picture at the beginning of this thread) I was able to hold 300 MHz for ten minutes before the stick seemingly crashed and couldn't be recognized as a device by both cgminer and Windows. After unplugging it for a little bit I got it working again and it's been humming along at 290MHz with no issues for well over an hour now.
I've seen plenty of posts where people get their compacs to run at 20GH/s (I'm sitting at 15GH/s) so I'm wondering what I'd need to do to get it there without crashing. Do I need to dial up the voltage more? Or is the current draw insufficient (I have it in a 3.0 USB port on the front of my desktop)?
Yeah, you can't get above 295mhz or something like that without a powered usb hub because USB 3.0 only supplies so much power. Superbpag usb hubs are nice and cheap and do the job well. Once you get a powered hub 400mhz is reachable with a fan; past that, it's almost impossible to go higher to my knowledge. I've seen plenty of posts where people get their compacs to run at 20GH/s (I'm sitting at 15GH/s) so I'm wondering what I'd need to do to get it there without crashing. Do I need to dial up the voltage more? Or is the current draw insufficient (I have it in a 3.0 USB port on the front of my desktop)?
February 03, 2017, 04:40:06 PM
Thanks guys I'm understanding all this now. I've been playing around with the clock settings and voltage, and after dialing the voltage to .77V (I don't have a voltmeter on me so that's based off the picture at the beginning of this thread) I was able to hold 300 MHz for ten minutes before the stick seemingly crashed and couldn't be recognized as a device by both cgminer and Windows. After unplugging it for a little bit I got it working again and it's been humming along at 290MHz with no issues for well over an hour now.
I've seen plenty of posts where people get their compacs to run at 20GH/s (I'm sitting at 15GH/s) so I'm wondering what I'd need to do to get it there without crashing. Do I need to dial up the voltage more? Or is the current draw insufficient (I have it in a 3.0 USB port on the front of my desktop)?
I've seen plenty of posts where people get their compacs to run at 20GH/s (I'm sitting at 15GH/s) so I'm wondering what I'd need to do to get it there without crashing. Do I need to dial up the voltage more? Or is the current draw insufficient (I have it in a 3.0 USB port on the front of my desktop)?
February 02, 2017, 08:31:07 PM
You guys are overlooking the stats. He is mining to a pool that has set the MINUMUM Share difficulty over 2000. Many pools won't lower the Min until you hit it at least once. His miners BEST SHARE so far in the screenshot is 75. He's got a ways to go. Now some pools will start hiding work if you don't submit a valid share fast enough, while others will begin lowering diff after a certain amount of time. What mmpool's strategy is I wouldn't know because I've not used it. The message "Share Above Target" really means that your miner submitted work that is not above the minimum share difficulty ie. 1/1 and 2/1 when what you need at mmpool was at least 2.5k/2.5k Diff.
Probably a stupid question but is there any way to increase the difficulty on my stick? It starts out around 20 but then over time increases drastically (currently 829 after 5 minutes). Is there any way to accelerate that process? I'm very new to this so I don't completely understand what the difficulty factor is related to (I assume it has something to do with hashrate).EDIT: I learned a little more by playing around with it. I'm using slushpool now for its very low minimum share difficulty of 9 and I'm submitting shares at a rate of about one per second. However, something like 80-90% of the shares the stick tries to send are still below the minimum difficulty. Is there a way to prevent it from even attempting to work on shares below the minimum difficulty? It seems like a waste of power and efficiency.
Can you toss a pair of dice and always go over 7?
Nope
Same with a stick or any asic.
They will toss small shares.
Sorry I was trying to answer the question how to prevent small shares. The answer I gave was not clear enough .
The best way to explain this is any miner will toss little shares and you can not prevent that.
I left this part out any miner will toss medium size shares and large shares.
It is the nature of the random al- gore-rhythm that the ASIC is using to toss shares at random within the guidelines of the coin.
February 02, 2017, 08:24:28 PM
You guys are overlooking the stats. He is mining to a pool that has set the MINUMUM Share difficulty over 2000. Many pools won't lower the Min until you hit it at least once. His miners BEST SHARE so far in the screenshot is 75. He's got a ways to go. Now some pools will start hiding work if you don't submit a valid share fast enough, while others will begin lowering diff after a certain amount of time. What mmpool's strategy is I wouldn't know because I've not used it. The message "Share Above Target" really means that your miner submitted work that is not above the minimum share difficulty ie. 1/1 and 2/1 when what you need at mmpool was at least 2.5k/2.5k Diff.
Probably a stupid question but is there any way to increase the difficulty on my stick? It starts out around 20 but then over time increases drastically (currently 829 after 5 minutes). Is there any way to accelerate that process? I'm very new to this so I don't completely understand what the difficulty factor is related to (I assume it has something to do with hashrate).EDIT: I learned a little more by playing around with it. I'm using slushpool now for its very low minimum share difficulty of 9 and I'm submitting shares at a rate of about one per second. However, something like 80-90% of the shares the stick tries to send are still below the minimum difficulty. Is there a way to prevent it from even attempting to work on shares below the minimum difficulty? It seems like a waste of power and efficiency.
Can you toss a pair of dice and always go over 7?
Nope
Same with a stick or any asic.
They will toss small shares.
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