GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair - page 16.

ZiG

sr. member

Activity: 406

Merit: 250

Quote from: GenTarkin on May 28, 2014, 09:47:40 AM

Quote from: Blisk on May 28, 2014, 01:32:59 AM

Ok but you must be avare of making extra inductance on the board after that.

I barely know anything bout electronics, I just know this type of mod has been attempted on several multi chip ASIC designs in the past. So, wanted to try it on gblade.
Its helped a bit, just not as much as Id hoped =)
So, all in all, w/ the wire mod & bridge mod, Im at 925mhz .25% HW avg across all my blades.

Good job, buddy...

Bridge mod = VMOD1...Correct...?

ZiG

GenTarkin

legendary

Activity: 2450

Merit: 1002

Quote from: Blisk on May 28, 2014, 01:32:59 AM

Ok but you must be avare of making extra inductance on the board after that.

I barely know anything bout electronics, I just know this type of mod has been attempted on several multi chip ASIC designs in the past. So, wanted to try it on gblade.
Its helped a bit, just not as much as Id hoped =)
So, all in all, w/ the wire mod & bridge mod, Im at 925mhz .25% HW avg across all my blades.

tuanvie

sr. member

Activity: 448

Merit: 250

I am so interested to have a hardware mining
but whether the overlock the original without overlock feel the difference?

Blisk

sr. member

Activity: 412

Merit: 250

I will try with to-220 housing they are much easier to cool down

styson

newbie

Activity: 20

Merit: 0

Quote from: J4bberwock on May 26, 2014, 08:34:39 AM

Quote from: styson on May 26, 2014, 05:22:44 AM

Lost them while busy trying to find a short on the board, 3 Ferrites were blown and the FET is shorted !!! Waiting for replacement FET's now.

Thanks J4bberwock

anything else than the ferrites and fet blown?

it can be helpful for some other people.

As far as I can see, nothing else damaged, I did get a confirmation from gridseed that you can use 100ohm 1206 100Mhz Ferrite Bead instead of the 300ohm 1206 100Mhz bye the power plug, but they say you can't go lower than that, but I suppose if your using a good quality power supply you can just put a 0ohm resistor in the or jumper it like you guys do.

As for the FETs, I have ordered :

CSD16321Q5C (replaces IRFH5302) * Dual Cool
CSD17556Q5B (replaces IRFH5300) * Correction these are not DualCool

Which are the DualCool type, should run a lot cooler Grin

Blisk

sr. member

Activity: 412

Merit: 250

Ok but you must be avare of making extra inductance on the board after that.

GenTarkin

legendary

Activity: 2450

Merit: 1002

Quote from: Blisk on May 28, 2014, 01:06:27 AM

Quote from: GenTarkin on May 28, 2014, 12:55:39 AM

Quote from: Blisk on May 28, 2014, 12:34:15 AM

Why you put that wires there?

If theres a better place.. Id be willing to try =P but dont think there is.

I still have no idea why at all you put that wires on board?

Oh an attempt to minimize voltage drop across the chips.
Cuz theres a .05v difference between VRM area & chips.

Blisk

sr. member

Activity: 412

Merit: 250

Quote from: GenTarkin on May 28, 2014, 12:55:39 AM

Quote from: Blisk on May 28, 2014, 12:34:15 AM

Why you put that wires there?

If theres a better place.. Id be willing to try =P but dont think there is.

I still have no idea why at all you put that wires on board?

GenTarkin

legendary

Activity: 2450

Merit: 1002

Quote from: Blisk on May 28, 2014, 12:34:15 AM

Why you put that wires there?

If theres a better place.. Id be willing to try =P but dont think there is.

Blisk

sr. member

Activity: 412

Merit: 250

Why you put that wires there?

GenTarkin

legendary

Activity: 2450

Merit: 1002

Quote from: ZiG on May 27, 2014, 08:41:37 PM

Quote from: GenTarkin on May 27, 2014, 09:49:17 AM

Quote from: xcooling on May 27, 2014, 05:47:50 AM

@GenTarkin please post pics of the wiremod

@racebyu very thin layer of super glue is how i attached all my heatsinks.

Ill try to do that =) , maybe Ill put on some bigger wire... but 18AWG is gonna be harder to solder on these small contacts, specially since all I have my hands on is stranded 18AWG.

Stranded is BETTER, General... Grin

Ha it is? psh well.. I just tried 18 AWG stranded copper wire, was using 20 AWG solid before.
Voltage went from 1.255 to 1.258 =P ROFL!

I guess, at this point, would have to run many upon many wires ... not worth it =(

Here be picture:
http://imgur.com/JXIPbZ1

kingscrown

hero member

Activity: 672

Merit: 500

http://fuk.io - check it out!

dcent thread. im in EU but buy from gaw - check my review of the blade - http://fuk.io/gridseed-g-blade-vs-gawminers-cloud-hosting-comparision-and-review/
cloud hosting from gaw is decent

wolfey2014

sr. member

Activity: 378

Merit: 250

Quote from: GenTarkin on May 27, 2014, 09:49:17 AM

Quote from: xcooling on May 27, 2014, 05:47:50 AM

@GenTarkin please post pics of the wiremod

@racebyu very thin layer of super glue is how i attached all my heatsinks.

Ill try to do that =) , maybe Ill put on some bigger wire... but 18AWG is gonna be harder to solder on these small contacts, specially since all I have my hands on is stranded 18AWG.

What gauge is your current wire? 18AWG may be overkill anyway.

Wolfey2014

ZiG

sr. member

Activity: 406

Merit: 250

Quote from: GenTarkin on May 27, 2014, 09:49:17 AM

Quote from: xcooling on May 27, 2014, 05:47:50 AM

@GenTarkin please post pics of the wiremod

@racebyu very thin layer of super glue is how i attached all my heatsinks.

Ill try to do that =) , maybe Ill put on some bigger wire... but 18AWG is gonna be harder to solder on these small contacts, specially since all I have my hands on is stranded 18AWG.

Stranded is BETTER, General... Grin

GenTarkin

legendary

Activity: 2450

Merit: 1002

Quote from: xcooling on May 27, 2014, 05:47:50 AM

@GenTarkin please post pics of the wiremod

@racebyu very thin layer of super glue is how i attached all my heatsinks.

Ill try to do that =) , maybe Ill put on some bigger wire... but 18AWG is gonna be harder to solder on these small contacts, specially since all I have my hands on is stranded 18AWG.

J4bberwock

hero member

Activity: 840

Merit: 1000

Quote from: natbyte on May 27, 2014, 05:57:25 AM

Looking to use CSD16321 as a replacement with dual IR5300

http://uk.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Ntt=CSD16321&bdprt=1&cartid=50231000

Mouser lists 2 components for this part, I assume the FET I need is CSD16321Q5C can you confirm J4bberwock please, thanks.

they are the same, but the Q5C is supposed to have better cooling, so maybe better for us.
they are the ones I have too.

CSD16321 is for upper gate, instead of 5301/5302

my irfb7430 arrived at lunch time, so I'll try it this afternoon.

natbyte

member

Activity: 70

Merit: 10

Looking to use CSD16321 as a replacement with dual IR5300

http://uk.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Ntt=CSD16321&bdprt=1&cartid=50231000

Mouser lists 2 components for this part, I assume the FET I need is CSD16321Q5C can you confirm J4bberwock please, thanks.

xcooling

member

Activity: 145

Merit: 10

@GenTarkin please post pics of the wiremod

@racebyu very thin layer of super glue is how i attached all my heatsinks.

racebyu

sr. member

Activity: 346

Merit: 260

I have heat sinks glued to the back of my board under the regulator section.
Also noted for cooling if you do not us a additional fan for cooling this area
you can extend the Blade shroud out with cardboard on all side to help keep
the airflow directly over your bottom mounted heat sinks.

I will be adding a higher voltage capacitor, removing FB's and also adding heat
sinks to the 3 main FET's on the top side of the board. How did everyone
secure the heat sinks to the power section, sticky thermal tape or thermal epoxy
on the 3 tops?

I will add a 10 turn 50k pot and adjust to around 39k and see what hash rate
is possible with freq range from 900hz to 1khz, will post up picks soon.

racebyu

sr. member

Activity: 346

Merit: 260

Quote from: GenTarkin on May 26, 2014, 07:17:07 PM

update here, I attempted the wire mod from the VRM SMD yellow cap to both the middle(on one blade) and furthest(the rest of my blades) of the 3 ASIC caps(same type of cap) on both +/-

Results arent as great as Id hoped.
The middle one , while working great for the first 2 SMD caps in the ASIC area .. didnt really help the last cap much.
So the last 3 blades, I connected the wires to the last cap, this worked better for all 3.

1.3v for VRM cap - doesnt change of course.
Results:
stock: 1.24-1.235v(first to last) for middle caps
wiremod: 1.255-1.255v(consistent for all 3 now) for middle caps.

So, it helped a bit, HW error dropped a bit at same speed.
What I dont get is why the voltage didnt go up closer to the VRM cap of 1.3v =(

Solder joints look good.
What I used: 20ga copper wire, solid core.

Maybe its your wire resistance?
You could go to a thicker gauge wire.

Topic: GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair - page 16. (Read 74153 times)