So, i downloaded Hashra image for Blades, put it on my Rasp' and all is working like a charm with BFGminer
Topic: GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair - page 19. (Read 74047 times)
Thanks for the advices guys, resolved the issue.
So, i downloaded Hashra image for Blades, put it on my Rasp' and all is working like a charm with BFGminer
So, i downloaded Hashra image for Blades, put it on my Rasp' and all is working like a charm with BFGminer
Different pools only reports ~ 13-15 Mh/s, i have also 40 Mh/s all in GPUs and the hashrate reported by the pools is pretty accurate with them...
EDIT : What about the HW errors, what's the "normal" rate ?
EDIT : What about the HW errors, what's the "normal" rate ?
Nominal HW rate is 2% and below. Anything above is a negative return.
Different pools only reports ~ 13-15 Mh/s, i have also 40 Mh/s all in GPUs and the hashrate reported by the pools is pretty accurate with them...
EDIT : What about the HW errors, what's the "normal" rate ?
EDIT : What about the HW errors, what's the "normal" rate ?
Hi,
you are around 3.2% HW errors.
186*512/(2978896+16096)
I like to stay under 0.5%
High difficulty can give you some strange hashrate pool side.
If you can, check the 24h average.
For 7.2Mh/s, betarigs always show between 6.9 and 7.4Mh/s 2 hours average
Different pools only reports ~ 13-15 Mh/s, i have also 40 Mh/s all in GPUs and the hashrate reported by the pools is pretty accurate with them...
EDIT : What about the HW errors, what's the "normal" rate ?
EDIT : What about the HW errors, what's the "normal" rate ?
Hi there ! i think there's a problem on my 4 x G-Blades, dunno if it's the diff @512, or cgminer itself (i wanna change to cpuminer 1.0b, but it's not really compatible with Betarigs, since cpuminer and cgminer don't shows dead/alive pools the same way), or anything else 
...
I'm using a 80+ silver PSU, FSP brand, Win 7 x64.
(click here if image isn't showing)
...I'm using a 80+ silver PSU, FSP brand, Win 7 x64.
(click here if image isn't showing)
Um.... what do you think the problem is? All looks normal to me...
Hi there ! i think there's a problem on my 4 x G-Blades, dunno if it's the diff @512, or cgminer itself (i wanna change to cpuminer 1.0b, but it's not really compatible with Betarigs, since cpuminer and cgminer don't shows dead/alive pools the same way), or anything else ...
I'm using a 80+ silver PSU, FSP brand, Win 7 x64.
(click here if image isn't showing)
...I'm using a 80+ silver PSU, FSP brand, Win 7 x64.
(click here if image isn't showing)
I put a small heatsink on the backside of the board, right behind the DC powerjack .. over the area where the hottest ferrite beads are. They seemed to have cool down significantly, so has the general area of the board where the small heatsink is at.
Also, Im waiting for someone to try the vdroop mod =P ... not knowing much about PCB's, I dont know if it would have adverse affects or kill something =/
If I knew, Id be the first to try it =P
Small update on my bridge mod for 2x gblades ... 913mhz @ .35% HW overnight , avg hasrhate 12.36mh
I know that if we could address the vdroop problem, if all chips saw 1.3v ... hashrate would be decently higher, w/o much additional load on the VRM's ...
Also, Im waiting for someone to try the vdroop mod =P ... not knowing much about PCB's, I dont know if it would have adverse affects or kill something =/
If I knew, Id be the first to try it =P
Small update on my bridge mod for 2x gblades ... 913mhz @ .35% HW overnight , avg hasrhate 12.36mh
I know that if we could address the vdroop problem, if all chips saw 1.3v ... hashrate would be decently higher, w/o much additional load on the VRM's ...
ferrites are for leaking inductance.
this IRFB7437 can replace all 3 chips? IRFH5300/5301/5302
Why than they use two IRF5300
and one IRFH5301?
what is difference with IRF1404 and IRFB7437? less power?
I found IRFB7437 for 1,17€ pcs
here is pic what I think will do with to-220 mosfet
this is look from a side
Why than they use two IRF5300
and one IRFH5301?
what is difference with IRF1404 and IRFB7437? less power?
I found IRFB7437 for 1,17€ pcs
here is pic what I think will do with to-220 mosfet
this is look from a side
The orientation of the pqfn isn't the same on the 3 ones, so you won't be able to do it like this.
plus the legs of the TO-220 will be too short to bend them back to the other side
Since there will be 3 TO-220 next to each other, I'll probably go for a heatsink for the 3 of them and I'll let it stay on the PCB without soldering it, maybe glued with non conductive glue.
Look inside of a computer PSU to have an idea of what I mean, except in the PSU, the heatsink is soldered to the ground of PCB.
I have a few dead old PSU that I can take the heatsinks off for this project
Yo J4! How ya doin?
I see you've been busy in your mad scientist lab hah hah!
Just my 2 centerinos: I don't recommend adding FETs or messing with the overall design. Doing so will add leakage inductance to the switching circuit and could cause failure. Installing bigger MOSFETs might (/might/) be an option, but if the gate charge (basically gate capacitance) is higher than those installed it may go !bang! as a protest. Yes! More MAGIC BLACK SMOKE! WOO HOO!
WoOf
Edit: Another thought.....You might be able to use a 'separate' gate driver to switch the added FETs'. They MUST absolutely be 100% in sync with the main FET's gate driver which is where you'll tap the drivers gate signal from.
Maxim makes some great gate drivers if you're interested in trying this approach. Simply Google maxim gate driver...Mouser carries them.
Again, this is just an off the cuff idea without putting much thought into it but it's been my experience that the best way to drive a gate is with a gate driver, not direct output of the actual driver so you achieve nice clean square waves where you need them the most.
I presume you have the requisite test equipment including a good high speed analog or digital CRO. Gewed luck, doctor!
wasn't there on old baldes just 2 ferrites?
I see here now 6 resistros 0 ohm I suppose?
They are current asorbers because of high current here.
I see here now 6 resistros 0 ohm I suppose?
They are current asorbers because of high current here.
oh! mine has the newer AQ6 vrm as well, wonder if the FB's are gone on mine... lets see...
hrm... I dont show a 0 on top of mine, just blank... guessing they are still FB's then...
I have little tiny 6x6mm heatsinks, could I put them on the FB's safely?
Or would it risk shorting the contact points on the FB's?
Im wondering, could I just short the tops of the ferrite beads ... to achieve same thing as removing & shorting the pads?
hrm... I dont show a 0 on top of mine, just blank... guessing they are still FB's then...
I have little tiny 6x6mm heatsinks, could I put them on the FB's safely?
Or would it risk shorting the contact points on the FB's?
Im wondering, could I just short the tops of the ferrite beads ... to achieve same thing as removing & shorting the pads?
Do you have CSD 17556 for the other ones too or still the old IRFH ones?
Hrm... dont recall, they are under heatsinks now =/
oh! mine has the newer AQ6 vrm as well, wonder if the FB's are gone on mine... lets see...
hrm... I dont show a 0 on top of mine, just blank... guessing they are still FB's then...
I have little tiny 6x6mm heatsinks, could I put them on the FB's safely?
Or would it risk shorting the contact points on the FB's?
Im wondering, could I just short the tops of the ferrite beads ... to achieve same thing as removing & shorting the pads?
hrm... I dont show a 0 on top of mine, just blank... guessing they are still FB's then...
I have little tiny 6x6mm heatsinks, could I put them on the FB's safely?
Or would it risk shorting the contact points on the FB's?
Im wondering, could I just short the tops of the ferrite beads ... to achieve same thing as removing & shorting the pads?
Do you have CSD 17556 for the other ones too or still the old IRFH ones?
oh! mine has the newer AQ6 vrm as well, wonder if the FB's are gone on mine... lets see...
hrm... I dont show a 0 on top of mine, just blank... guessing they are still FB's then...
I have little tiny 6x6mm heatsinks, could I put them on the FB's safely?
Or would it risk shorting the contact points on the FB's?
Im wondering, could I just short the tops of the ferrite beads ... to achieve same thing as removing & shorting the pads?
hrm... I dont show a 0 on top of mine, just blank... guessing they are still FB's then...
I have little tiny 6x6mm heatsinks, could I put them on the FB's safely?
Or would it risk shorting the contact points on the FB's?
Im wondering, could I just short the tops of the ferrite beads ... to achieve same thing as removing & shorting the pads?
some people make it to run on over 1000 Mh and than it makes them blown
ferrite are still alive at 1063Mhz for weeks on my first blade, but I have forced cooling on the powerboard area.
Here is the newer version from Gridseed with ferrite replaced by 0 resistors and the vrm replaced by gridseed too
some people make it to run on over 1000 Mh and than it makes them blown
ive done direct wiring on motherboards to fix vdroop and stabilise memory. So in theory, your idea could work.
Anyone up to test it ?
Remember to remove the 2 ferrite beads, and replace them with thick solder. Otherwise you will damage your blade.
Anyone up to test it ?
Remember to remove the 2 ferrite beads, and replace them with thick solder. Otherwise you will damage your blade.
Why do they have to be removed? just curious. Mine seem to be running warm, but not scorchingly hot. Also, I would like a pic of the ones being talked about. The hottest ones seem to be next to the side of the DC jack. Do they just overheat? if so, couldnt putting little heatsinks on them / backside help?
Do they have to be removed when just doing the bridge mod?
BTW, update, over the course of 11hrs, the bridge mod is going well.... I have them at 875mhz , .04% HW rate!
this way you close fans path at the end and mosfets are really alot far away from soldering pins.
and i plan to use way larger heatsink to coll down mosfets, this what you suggest is a question if it will be enough.
and i plan to use way larger heatsink to coll down mosfets, this what you suggest is a question if it will be enough.
If the TO220 tabs have to be isolated you can use Mica Insulators + hardware or make the heat sink out of plastic.
Then add 3 finned TO220 individual heat sinks and space them out more, then the back tabs are isolated.
Top view of heat sink.
TO220 Finned Individual Heat Sink.
Winged Larger suface area.
Then add 3 finned TO220 individual heat sinks and space them out more, then the back tabs are isolated.
Top view of heat sink.
TO220 Finned Individual Heat Sink.
Winged Larger suface area.
Another idea for best cooling of Q6, Q7, Q8 is position your Blade so the circuit boards are vertical.
Mount 2 L brackets on the existing heat sink as there are holes on the ends for self taping screws.
Place a flat heat sink across the two L brackets 1/2 way between the Blade circuit boards and the
outside of the heat sink (Best airflow for cooling).
Mount Q6, Q7, Q8 on the heat sink (not sure of TO220 tabs are common?) if not film mica isolators
are needed and isolation hardware.
Run wires from Q6, Q7, Q8 other side of board where surface mounted chips where originally located.
This should get the best cooling to the FET's with the massive airflow of the current fan.
Revised quick picture below.
Mount 2 L brackets on the existing heat sink as there are holes on the ends for self taping screws.
Place a flat heat sink across the two L brackets 1/2 way between the Blade circuit boards and the
outside of the heat sink (Best airflow for cooling).
Mount Q6, Q7, Q8 on the heat sink (not sure of TO220 tabs are common?) if not film mica isolators
are needed and isolation hardware.
Run wires from Q6, Q7, Q8 other side of board where surface mounted chips where originally located.
This should get the best cooling to the FET's with the massive airflow of the current fan.
Revised quick picture below.
ive done direct wiring on motherboards to fix vdroop and stabilise memory. So in theory, your idea could work.
Anyone up to test it ?
Remember to remove the 2 ferrite beads, and replace them with thick solder. Otherwise you will damage your blade.
Anyone up to test it ?
Remember to remove the 2 ferrite beads, and replace them with thick solder. Otherwise you will damage your blade.
Anyone have a picture of the removed and bypassed ferrite beads?
I assume its the rectangular part beside the two power fets.
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