Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive Bitmain AntMiner S1 Setup [HD] - page 7. (Read 112399 times)

Does anyone know the spec on the Antminer S1 antenna connector?  I can't find a definitive post.  Is it SMA or RP-SMA?  Or something else?  Thanks.

yeah, I get a total short when the board is totally removed and nothing hooked up to it. (ie no PSU, no control lines, nor the little circuit board. even the fan is off)  Not even the heat sink was on it. just the bare board.  Every thing looks great on the board, but somewhere, something is totally short.  ( like 0 ohms!) i only wonder!?!   and why all of a sudden after working fine?    Thank you!! cheers!

Have you tested the PCI-E connection itself internally on the PSU side? (be careful)

Hi Dogie!

I had a little problem, and I'm interested if anyone else or yourself have run into this.  Basically, one of the boards to one of my antminer s1's went completely short!?!   When i put a multimeter between any of the 12volt and ground connections, i get a total short 0.00 ohms. 

I took off the heat sink, cleaned off the thermal paste and visually inspected for any wires or something that would be shorting it out-didnt find anything.  It was hashing fine at 201 gh/s , clocked to 393.75, and staying right around 50 degrees.  I had just hooked it up about 3 days ago from some guy on ebay and didn't have any problems until this happened.

So no, I'm running the other blade and its doing just fine, staying at 47 deg and putting out about 101 gh/s.   

My worst fear:  Is that what an antminer blade looks like when it finally burns out? Any components on the board that are known for this? (like maybe a cap shorted?)  Thank you dogie an advance!!!

Its pretty close but sounds okay.

Thanks for the reply. Yep, it's a bare bones MSI G61, dual core celeron, on-board VGA. Not sure how much power that stuff draws, but it can't be that much.

Corsair tends to be pretty solid with their PSUs so if it's saying 650W it's good for 650W. With the 2 R-Boxes and the S1 that's another 440w or so, so as long as the PC isn't pushing beyond 210w (if it's a low end, without a discrete graphics card, it's safe to say it's not).

Hi,
I'm running one S1 (not overclocked) on a Corsair TX650 R2 80+ Bronze, +12V@53A
Now here's the thing - the PS is also powering a low end PC, plus I have two R-Boxes (~40W each) connected to the PS via a PCI-e to molex adapter. So that's around 500W, not including the PC. Everything's running fine, was wondering if I'm pushing it a bit.

Thanks for the reply.  Just like the stock fans, it has 4 wires.   a black (-) a red (+) a yellow (tach) and a blue (PWM signal).   I tried swapping the yellow and blue, but as soon as i put the blue on the 3rd pin from the top, the fan shuts off all together.  Where as when i put the blue on the 4th pin, it works perfectly fine in reverse PWM function.  (antminer gets hotter, fan gets slower)  i even did some thing silly. i unplugged it from the network so the antminer stopped hashing and eventually the stock fan stopped spinning.  At this point, the Nidec Beta v was at Wide open 100% throttle!   Now, one thing that i wanted to mention was, the Nidec Beta V that is working perfectly fine ( normal PWM function) has the exact same model number and part number, but the color wires are different.  (it has black, red, blue, and green)  At first, i was sure that the green was the tach and the blue was the PWM signal, but then i found when i hooked it up that the green was actually the PWM and the blue was the tachometer.  But, all in all, it works great though.

With all the fans being sold on ebay and what not, it's hard to believe that I'm the only one that's ran into this problem.   The other question, i was wondering, when i shop for a "PWM" 4 wire fan, how would i know that its the regular pwm function and not the "reverse" pwm function?    And, if your really good, is there some kinda electronic component (like a transistor or inexpensive Integrated circuit) that will reverse these fan's reverse PWM function back to normal?  I would donate atleast a little BTC to one who could get me to the right answer!  Thanks again!

How exactly did you wire it in with its non standard header?

Hi everyone!  I purchased a Nidec Beta V VA450DC and installed it on one of my Ants.  It works great, and the pwm function works nice too  ( ie when the ant gets hot, it blows way harder thus cooling the antminer down)

So i bought 7 more of the Nidec beta V VA450DC and started installing them.  What i found is that when the antminer s1 gets hotter, the fan slows down?  it continues to do this untill the Antminer hits 60 degrees C and then the fan totally stops. If i manually cool the antminer, the fan will gradually get faster. Everyone of the New 7 Nidec fans is doing the same thing ( so its not just an oddity with one of them)

One thing i also noticed is, when i first turn on the antminer, the stock fan doesnt run, but the nidec runs at full speed.  It seems to me that the PWM function is working totally opposite of what its supposed to!!?!  I tested it and basically the cooler the antminer is, the faster the fan blows.  So, its totally inverse of what its supposed to be.  Amazingly , this exact same thing happened when i bought a Delta Fan as well.  I had to pull the PWM line off so now it blows full speed. 

The 7 that i bought are the same model number and everything as the nidec that works just right. Has anyone experienced this problem with certain PWM fans? Is there anything i can do to fix it?  Why is it totally opposite of what its supposed to do?

Get a $5 usb hub off amazon and then you have many usb ports on your pi

looking for configuration guidance.
i tried a couple things with bridging, etc, but not having any success.

i have my s1 running with a wireless network connection.
i would like to bridge or forward the wired network port to the wireless active connection.
ie: i would like to plug in a raspberry pi on the wired port and piggyback/share the wireless
  connection the s1 is using.

this way i can run my older technology miners (butterfly 60ghash boxes) which are noisy and hot
in the garage where they belong

any configuration suggestions?
i'm fine with static ip numbers for the wired connection, the raspberry pi isn't dependent
on dhcp. but either is fine.

thanks!

ps: yes, i *could* get a usb wifi adapter for the raspberry pi but that would a) cost more money - i'm that cheap,
 and b) use up a precious usb port that the miner boxes need, and c) not tickle my rube goldberg genes enough

1) Makes little difference, not required.

2) See the OP

3) Will make it worse, don't bother

4) Thats fine

5) Not recommended at all, its pushing it way past the limits for 18 gauge.

I just picked up a couple S1's and I'm excited to get them up and running.  Having read a ton of threads to prep myself for setup and success I have a few questions. 

One - Has anyone used any additional heatsinks on the outside?  I see kits for sale but have no idea if they are worth it.

Two - Can anyone point out a good but relatively cheap wifi antenna?  I don't know the same of the connection on the S1 so I'm not sure what to look for.

Three - Has anyone tried mounting these pointing up.  i.e. with the fan on the bottom?  There looks to be enough frame on the units to do this and since the heat is rising anyway I would think you'd get a little more heat dissipation from the fan versus the normal horizontal setup.

Four - I'm planning to try to run both S1's off on one power source (link below). It seems like it'll be on the line of working if I have both units overclocked.  I have older BFL units that I can steal another power supply (Corsair not the junk BFL's come with) from if I need to.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0HZMKG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Five - There seem to be pretty mixed responses to this throughout the inter-web but can I run one S1 (both blades) from one power cable that splits into two PCI-e connectors?  It seems like the gauge of the wire should be able to handle it.  Let me know if you run yours this way.



Answers to any or all of these questions would be much appreciated.  Thanks!

There is a tiny reset button on the controller card. If you push that gently with a pen top or something it should reset back to factory default settings and allow you to connect back to 192.168.1.99 or whatever is on the sticker for the i.p address for the miner.

Hi, I have trouble running S1.
I bought 3 used S1, v1.5.
As for now, I can't see any blinking lights from RJ45 ports and I think that's why I can't connect to 192.168.x.x.
I don't know what went wrong since I could see the light blinking when I first got it. (I could connect to 192 at the beginning although I couldn't run the miner anyway.)
Could you give me some assumption what I did wrong?
Thanks

Can you give us more infos? Have you putted on your router the correct subnet (192.168.1.x)?

Guys, can someone help me? After I set my router things to 2.xx the website doesnt load.