Hi,
Yes, they're still available. I took them off the online ordering page a few days ago.
PM me what you're interested in and I will give you a quote and payment instructions, etc.
Thanks!
Topic: Klondike - Adapters and Mounting Systems (Read 7736 times)
Hey guys, I know one of the GBs died, but I actually did get a couple working K16s out of Steamboat's GB. Are these still available (I don't see them on the website OP posted) or would someone be willing to re-sell me a few they aren't using anymore?
Cheers.
Cheers.
Sweet 
It fits!
I received a K16 today from Bkk. Thanks Bkk!
I received a K16 today from Bkk. Thanks Bkk!
Received my order today, looks great! Thanks!
Well I saw in the TerraHash thread yesterday that they are printing k64s with perforations to make it easier for people like me to break them apart into k16s, so I might be able to go with the k16 atx plate after all 
lol
lol well, I just did a little google fu on it and if I do try it I would probably go with a razorknife to score both sides and then crack it apart. Seems like the lowest impact option to me. I might want to mine until it breaks even before I try though 
Better yet, just buy K16s, if that's what you want
Leave your K64s intact.Yea, that would be smart
... I didn't see past the part where I saved a few bucks on a k64 over 4x k16s, then later realized I can fit more hashing power in a regular case with k16s I'm sure I will figure out something thoughOh, I see... So you are really looking at maybe needing to cut some apart... Lol, up 'til now I thought we were just speaking theoretically
Your method of scoring both sides and breaking the board does work, but be very careful about flexing the boards. Even if they are cut pretty deeply, it can still take a good deal of force to break the board, and SMT capacitors and resistors can crack if they get flexed much. It should be fine, just don't force it.
well, I just did a little google fu on it and if I do try it I would probably go with a razorknife to score both sides and then crack it apart. Seems like the lowest impact option to me. I might want to mine until it breaks even before I try though
Better yet, just buy K16s, if that's what you want
Leave your K64s intact.Yea, that would be smart
... I didn't see past the part where I saved a few bucks on a k64 over 4x k16s, then later realized I can fit more hashing power in a regular case with k16s I'm sure I will figure out something though well, I just did a little google fu on it and if I do try it I would probably go with a razorknife to score both sides and then crack it apart. Seems like the lowest impact option to me. I might want to mine until it breaks even before I try though
Better yet, just buy K16s, if that's what you want
Leave your K64s intact.
well, I just did a little google fu on it and if I do try it I would probably go with a razorknife to score both sides and then crack it apart. Seems like the lowest impact option to me. I might want to mine until it breaks even before I try though
I thought the K64 was simply four K16s arranged in a square, with interconnects plugged in between boards? Or is it a standalone board?
The boards will be manufactured panelized, and can be cut into individual K16s or 2x2 to make K64s. See https://github.com/bkkcoins/klondike/blob/master/docs/KLego.pdf?raw=true .
I saw that but wondered can they really be cut without damaging the chip connections, etc? I assume one would need a dremel and some care to get it done, not sure if I would want to risk it
Companies that manufacture the PCBs do this all the time. You can do it by hand, but it is a lot of work. I wouldn't recommend buying K64s and then cutting them into K16s.
I suppose TH (and other board builders) could order them with break-away cuts if they wanted to, so they can easily be separated.
What I meant with the dremel comment was that I am pretty sure I can't just lay the thing down on my table saw and cut away... Work I am fine with, finding out the vibrations from my work shook loose a chip or three I am not so fine with
I guess I will have to look into this a bit more. I only have 1x k64 and the rest is all k16s, so if I know I can do it without breaking anything, it might be worth the effort for me. jdape - brilliant!
FWIW, I've cut boards like that many a time with a band saw - but FR4 is pretty rough on the blades. I don't recommend it.
I thought the K64 was simply four K16s arranged in a square, with interconnects plugged in between boards? Or is it a standalone board?
The boards will be manufactured panelized, and can be cut into individual K16s or 2x2 to make K64s. See https://github.com/bkkcoins/klondike/blob/master/docs/KLego.pdf?raw=true .
I saw that but wondered can they really be cut without damaging the chip connections, etc? I assume one would need a dremel and some care to get it done, not sure if I would want to risk it
Companies that manufacture the PCBs do this all the time. You can do it by hand, but it is a lot of work. I wouldn't recommend buying K64s and then cutting them into K16s.
I suppose TH (and other board builders) could order them with break-away cuts if they wanted to, so they can easily be separated.
What I meant with the dremel comment was that I am pretty sure I can't just lay the thing down on my table saw and cut away... Work I am fine with, finding out the vibrations from my work shook loose a chip or three I am not so fine with
I guess I will have to look into this a bit more. I only have 1x k64 and the rest is all k16s, so if I know I can do it without breaking anything, it might be worth the effort for me. jdape - brilliant!
Added countersunk holes on the washer, so it will double as a support for the weight of the K64's.
So, I made a 'floating' mounting system which gives ~13mm of movement in every direction. If the K64 has holes anywhere around the corner of the PCB, it should work.
It involves a large hole in each corner of the Micro ATX plate, an oversized washer underneath, and a custom 10mm standoff between the K64 and the plate.
Here's what it looks like. I used a K16 board just for show.
Top:
Bottom:
It involves a large hole in each corner of the Micro ATX plate, an oversized washer underneath, and a custom 10mm standoff between the K64 and the plate.
Here's what it looks like. I used a K16 board just for show.
Top:
Bottom:
I thought the K64 was simply four K16s arranged in a square, with interconnects plugged in between boards? Or is it a standalone board?
The boards will be manufactured panelized, and can be cut into individual K16s or 2x2 to make K64s. See https://github.com/bkkcoins/klondike/blob/master/docs/KLego.pdf?raw=true .
I saw that but wondered can they really be cut without damaging the chip connections, etc? I assume one would need a dremel and some care to get it done, not sure if I would want to risk it
Companies that manufacture the PCBs do this all the time. You can do it by hand, but it is a lot of work. I wouldn't recommend buying K64s and then cutting them into K16s.
I suppose TH (and other board builders) could order them with break-away cuts if they wanted to, so they can easily be separated.
I thought the K64 was simply four K16s arranged in a square, with interconnects plugged in between boards? Or is it a standalone board?
The boards will be manufactured panelized, and can be cut into individual K16s or 2x2 to make K64s. See https://github.com/bkkcoins/klondike/blob/master/docs/KLego.pdf?raw=true .
I saw that but wondered can they really be cut without damaging the chip connections, etc? I assume one would need a dremel and some care to get it done, not sure if I would want to risk it
I thought the K64 was simply four K16s arranged in a square, with interconnects plugged in between boards? Or is it a standalone board?
The boards will be manufactured panelized, and can be cut into individual K16s or 2x2 to make K64s. See https://github.com/bkkcoins/klondike/blob/master/docs/KLego.pdf?raw=true .
The circuitry is indeed four K16's, however, a single large PCB will be used for K64's.
I thought the K64 was simply four K16s arranged in a square, with interconnects plugged in between boards? Or is it a standalone board?
Idea....
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