T17/S17 malfunction: cases, solutions, remedies, RMA history - page 10.

CryptoLLC

newbie

Activity: 25

Merit: 11

Quote from: wndsnb on October 06, 2020, 06:16:31 PM

Turns out my host has about 25 dead S17 pros, not sure what % of his total that is. We've struck a deal so I'm going to attempt to fix his dead miners, I'll update the thread on what I find.

Did you figure out a way to find the bad chip? I have about 20 boards from S17+ 73th and all the boards have error temp sensor and then they show 0 asic found. I dont know how to find the bad chip? Which chip do I need to check the solder on?

Breeze

newbie

Activity: 86

Merit: 0

Quote from: favebook on November 13, 2020, 12:12:04 PM

Depends on what unit we are talking about. J1, J2 and J3 were used on old S9 model as far as I know. I didn't see them on any of S/T 17 miners.

Can you provide more info about your unit and your problem?

S17 Pro. It's very hard to see on S17 control board. You can see J1, then you have to look with a flashlight between the tight cable connection to see J2 and J3. Chain 0 dropped out. Tried all the tricks on this thread to get it working. So decided to open it up and take a look on my heatsinks.

Quote from: mikeywith on November 13, 2020, 12:46:39 PM

Usually, the label on the control board will be represented in the kernel log, in case that is not the case, then the ordering is ascending, so your chain 0 will be J1, the labels are quite visible on the control board, you just need to follow the ribbon cable to see which hash board goes to which socket.

Thanks. Wanted it to clarify it.

mikeywith

legendary

Activity: 2394

Merit: 6581

be constructive or S.T.F.U

Usually, the label on the control board will be represented in the kernel log, in case that is not the case, then the ordering is ascending, so your chain 0 will be J1, the labels are quite visible on the control board, you just need to follow the ribbon cable to see which hash board goes to which socket.

favebook

sr. member

Activity: 604

Merit: 416

Depends on what unit we are talking about. J1, J2 and J3 were used on old S9 model as far as I know. I didn't see them on any of S/T 17 miners.

Can you provide more info about your unit and your problem?

Breeze

newbie

Activity: 86

Merit: 0

Now when i checked carefully with a flashlight, i saw J1, J2 and J3 on the control board. That should be it? Thanks.

favebook

sr. member

Activity: 604

Merit: 416

Quote from: Breeze on November 13, 2020, 10:10:16 AM

Hi guys
Which hashboard is hashboard 1 (chain 0)?
Closes to the PSU for example.
Maybe @mikeywith can help me? Grin

Physical location does not matter. Check data connection cables.

IIRC order is:
0 3
1 2

They are marked on control board, you will have no trouble finding this out by yourself. If you have troubles, then send a picture of control board, and I will circle it for you.

Breeze

newbie

Activity: 86

Merit: 0

Hi guys
Which hashboard is hashboard 1 (chain 0)?
Closes to the PSU for example.
Maybe @mikeywith can help me? Grin

Vezza

newbie

Activity: 3

Merit: 0

Code:

nand: WARNING: pl35x-nand: the ECC used on your system is too weak compared to the one required by the NAND chip

Does anyone know why I get this thing up?

mikeywith

legendary

Activity: 2394

Merit: 6581

be constructive or S.T.F.U

Thermal cooling adhesive like the one from Arctic will do the job as well, the cheapest would be the "black glue" from China, I am not sure if that's more of solder or thermal adhesive, but it works, and it's dirt cheap, I tried to look for an alternative in the local market but with no luck, I am not even sure how do people here go about fixing heatsinks of other electronic equipment or maybe I didn't know what "material" I should be asking for since the words "solder/adhesive" didn't ring the bell, they would show me thermal paste used for CPUs and be like "this should work". Undecided

NotFuzzyWarm

legendary

Activity: 3752

Merit: 2667

Evil beware: We have waffles!

As wndsnb said it is NOT thermal paste. Thermal paste does not mechanically bond things (heat sinks) to chips - it only fills gaps/voids between surfaces and relies on clips or other means to hold things together. Same applies to self-sticking thermal pads. Either solder or a thermal epoxy adhesive MUST be used or the heat sinks will eventually fall off.

wndsnb

hero member

Activity: 544

Merit: 589

They are attached with solder. This is what I am using: https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=470007

Pendrak

member

Activity: 208

Merit: 46

What thermal paste they use for attach those heatsink?

wndsnb

hero member

Activity: 544

Merit: 589

I'm finding that the hashboard I'm troubleshooting that had 5 heatsinks shifted and shorting adjacent rows also has shifted chips. And on top of that, it looks like too much solder was used when the heatsinks were originally attached and some of it has migrated down and is now shorting pins on some of the chips. Looking like I'm going to have to take off more than half the heatsinks before I can get this one back up.

Here's a thermal image of the board where you can see some of shifted chips in the upper left corner. Not really necessary, but a cool toy to play with. That is where all the shifted heat sinks were as well. This was taken when the test fixture was just querying the chips status to get an asic count, so no hashing yet. The photo is cool, but in this case, it was also easy enough to find those by just feeling the board.

NotFuzzyWarm

legendary

Activity: 3752

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Evil beware: We have waffles!

Quote from: wndsnb on November 03, 2020, 09:58:19 AM

If using thermal adhesive, be aware that most of them are electrically conductive. Be careful not to let any drip over the side of the chip which may short out circuits on the board.

^^ Not necessarily. The Arctic Silver brand specifically state they are electrically non-conductive though do have a small capacitance value. Just make sure whatever you get states that it is electrically non-conductive.

When using any thermal compound that is conductive one trick often done is to simply apply a thin line of RTV (silicone glue for electronics) over the IC pins to keep the thermal epoxy from touching them.

wndsnb

hero member

Activity: 544

Merit: 589

If using thermal adhesive, be aware that ~~most~~ some of them are electrically conductive. Be careful not to let any drip over the side of the chip which may short out circuits on the board.

edit: just looked up arctic silver and it looks like that one does not conduct.

edit #2: ... looks like NotFuzzyWarm beat me to it

mikeywith

legendary

Activity: 2394

Merit: 6581

be constructive or S.T.F.U

Quote from: favebook on November 02, 2020, 02:05:35 PM

Would you recommend any specific one? Preferable purchasable in Europe?

Read my topic, I had gone through a similar problem, I ended up ordering Arctic silver form this link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087X7262 for $17, now the price has gone up to $37 which is way too much, actually even $17 is a lot for 7g, if shipping from China is an option and doesn't take forever, then get the black glue from a place like ZeusBtc https://www.zeusbtc.com/RepairDetails.asp?ID=86, you can actually find it cheaper on Aliexpress (not sure if it's the same quality).

If you end up ordering the "black glue" make sure whatever forwarder you use will be able to get it to you within 10 days, the guys at Zeusbtc told me that it can't be stored out of the fridge for more than 10 days.

favebook

sr. member

Activity: 604

Merit: 416

Sadly there are no Arctic Silver or Alumina in my country. There are only epoxy resins in my country and they are used for something totally different. Looks like I will have to pull cords to get it from Germany/Italy or I will have to order from Amazon.

Thank you for your help tho. I will try it before RMA-ing the unit.

NotFuzzyWarm

legendary

Activity: 3752

Merit: 2667

Evil beware: We have waffles!

Do a search for Arctic Silver or Arctic Alumina on your fav site. Key point is that it be a thermal epoxy so it holds the heat sink in place and is NOT just a thermal paste. Thermal pastes and stick-on thermal pads will not rigidly bond so things can move.

favebook

sr. member

Activity: 604

Merit: 416

Quote from: NotFuzzyWarm on November 02, 2020, 01:29:52 PM

So instead of soldering, use a good epoxy thermal adhesive to reattach the heat sink... Assuming the chip itself was not damaged, should work just fine.

Would you recommend any specific one? Preferable purchasable in Europe?

NotFuzzyWarm

legendary

Activity: 3752

Merit: 2667

Evil beware: We have waffles!

So instead of soldering, use a good epoxy thermal adhesive to reattach the heat sink... Assuming the chip itself was not damaged, should work just fine.

Topic: T17/S17 malfunction: cases, solutions, remedies, RMA history - page 10. (Read 7029 times)