I still have a problem with the same hash board. Now, after replacing some chips, I had a problem with another chip, the point is that the values on CKL and other points are not OK even after replacing two correct chips.
I will try to present you my problem through pictures.
How to multimeter parameters
https://imgur.com/SVVyvXK
Start loading the saw
https://i.imgur.com/FSy1BLz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fEz9bQU.jpg
start testing
https://i.imgur.com/fEz9bQU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gVs19Rc.jpg
Chain 2 find 0 asic and look at the values on the multimeter which should be from 0.7v to 0.9v
https://i.imgur.com/HbjoMMx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qDl9k91.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CkACRRN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ayeHcwM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rl0iujl.jpg
Measuring only the CLK on the previous chip shows the correct values
https://i.imgur.com/Mluu1mq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Qz87PFc.jpg
If you think I'm not doing something right feel free to write to me because I'm a beginner.
Topic: T17/S17 malfunction: cases, solutions, remedies, RMA history - page 5. (Read 7059 times)
I recall one of the folks here was from Canada, I have a bad memory tho, so let's hope he sees your post and respond to you, meanwhile if sending it to the U.S is an option you might want to have a look at this topic and perhaps ask your question there since the topic is pinned and related to mining fixing service I suppose you have a better chance in getting answers there than here.
Thanks for this! I'll get in touch with some of those people there in the interim and see if anyone else pops up here.
Of course, since we are compatriots and we have the same problems, I will share all my knowledge with you here and I can contact you privately.
although I have a lot of problems so far, today I have solder chips with solder paste up to 138 degrees Celsius and got some positive signals for the first time in a month.
I heated the solder to 350 degrees Celsius on a low speed blower
First he gave me an error on chip number 36 which reported a bad RO which I measure the black pin of the multimeter I prick in the RO behind the chip and the red on the chip itself.
As far as I understand so far, the normal values for RO are minus 1.8..v
So after checking all five signals I concluded that the RO signal is not OK on chip number 35, which I replaced but then I was told the same error on chip number 36 which I also replaced today, after measuring on both chips I later the same values of 1 , 8v but now my problem is chip 34 which gives bad values on CLK, CO, RSD by reducing the voltage by half than normal, after that I did not research more than I left the board to cool down until tomorrow.
although I have a lot of problems so far, today I have solder chips with solder paste up to 138 degrees Celsius and got some positive signals for the first time in a month.
I heated the solder to 350 degrees Celsius on a low speed blower
First he gave me an error on chip number 36 which reported a bad RO which I measure the black pin of the multimeter I prick in the RO behind the chip and the red on the chip itself.
As far as I understand so far, the normal values for RO are minus 1.8..v
So after checking all five signals I concluded that the RO signal is not OK on chip number 35, which I replaced but then I was told the same error on chip number 36 which I also replaced today, after measuring on both chips I later the same values of 1 , 8v but now my problem is chip 34 which gives bad values on CLK, CO, RSD by reducing the voltage by half than normal, after that I did not research more than I left the board to cool down until tomorrow.
Shipping from where I live to the U.S will sure cost a ton of money, the same thing to China, it's why I throw away most of the gears that die on me, but depending on your offer we might work it out especially if you only need the hash boards and not whole miners.
I'll confirm what do I have left untouched and send you a PM accordingly, I know I have hash boards of these models (S17 pro, S17, T17, T17e, S17+) I just need to confirm the numbers.
I'll confirm what do I have left untouched and send you a PM accordingly, I know I have hash boards of these models (S17 pro, S17, T17, T17e, S17+) I just need to confirm the numbers.
Thanks, let me know what you find. I have a bunch of APW9s, so one option is to just remove the PSU which is ~40% of the weight.
So if your boards are failing you can always try different angles to get them back to life. Worth a try, hopefully it will work with your gear as well.
I've seen a lot of excess solder that dripped down from heatsinks on hashboards I've repaired. The solder forms small solder balls that can sit right between the exposed pads for the chip connections and the bottom of the heatsink. It can sometimes be very close to shorting out signals, and just a bit of pressure on the heatsink can cause it to touch the signals and short them out. I'm sure the opposite is true as well, so a bit of pressure in the right spot could pull the solder away enough to open a short.
Every day I spend up to 10 hours on the same hash board and new problems are constantly born, problem Chain 36 after a while an error appears chine 21 then chine 6 then Asic 0 and so constantly, a lot of trouble for a beginner, and those from Zeusbtc will not really cooperate...
I find that very frequently heating and removing a heatsink will melt excess solder on nearby chips causing other issues. Also just handling and flexing the board can expose other issues. Especially when starting out, it is a good idea to test in stages as you put chips and heatsinks back on. I set the test fixture to only do the asic count test (this can be set in the config.ini file on the sd card, Only_find_ASIC=1), and will test the board before applying either heatsink, then after applying the back heatsink, and again after applying the top heatsink. Many times the board will find all chips fine, but after applying the back heatsink for the chip I'm working on I get 0 asics.
Hey guys.
Some info i just found out.
I managed to get all 3 boards to work on one of my miners ( with some of chips getting X tho after couple of minutes of mining, total hashrate ends up at 50 TH/s instead of 60 TH/s ) by placing a miner at tilted at 45 degrees with one side being set on the wall next to it.
Also the 2nd miner works only with 1 board but only if placed on its PSU.
So if your boards are failing you can always try different angles to get them back to life. Worth a try, hopefully it will work with your gear as well.
Some info i just found out.
I managed to get all 3 boards to work on one of my miners ( with some of chips getting X tho after couple of minutes of mining, total hashrate ends up at 50 TH/s instead of 60 TH/s ) by placing a miner at tilted at 45 degrees with one side being set on the wall next to it.
Also the 2nd miner works only with 1 board but only if placed on its PSU.
So if your boards are failing you can always try different angles to get them back to life. Worth a try, hopefully it will work with your gear as well.
The miners are located in Eastern Canada. Do you know of any repair sites in that part of the world?
I recall one of the folks here was from Canada, I have a bad memory tho, so let's hope he sees your post and respond to you, meanwhile if sending it to the U.S is an option you might want to have a look at this topic and perhaps ask your question there since the topic is pinned and related to mining fixing service I suppose you have a better chance in getting answers there than here.
I'm in the northeast USA.
I'd consider buying them, but if they are partially working it may be better for you to limp along with them while profitability is as high as it is now. Guess that depends on how often the 5 sometimes working hashboards go down.
I'd consider buying them, but if they are partially working it may be better for you to limp along with them while profitability is as high as it is now. Guess that depends on how often the 5 sometimes working hashboards go down.
Let's say that two out of five hashboards work every 10th try if miner is preheated and other three hashboards work every 3rd try if miner is preheated. If they are not preheated, there is maybe like 5% that 2 of them will work rest will not work at all if atmosphere temperature is under 25C.
Sadly as RRZP028 noted, shipping from Serbia to China or USA is way too expensive for anything that is heavy.
I am from Serbia as well which means I might be in need of your recently acquired skills RRZP028.
today I ordered another 50 chips, although I haven't even learned how to install them yet, I'm from Serbia, so sending from here is difficult, both to China and the USA,
I ask about the temperature because these with Zeusbtc advise 450 degrees Celsius when it is removed and when the chip is glued, so I assumed that it might not be much and whether that temperature will damage the chip
and how do I know that I haven't burned the chip from overheating and I don't know if I should put pressure on it during the gluing process,
for soldering I use two solder pastes 138celsius and 183 celsius, which is your opinion which is better
I ask about the temperature because these with Zeusbtc advise 450 degrees Celsius when it is removed and when the chip is glued, so I assumed that it might not be much and whether that temperature will damage the chip
and how do I know that I haven't burned the chip from overheating and I don't know if I should put pressure on it during the gluing process,
for soldering I use two solder pastes 138celsius and 183 celsius, which is your opinion which is better
First two miners are finding 0 chips on one hashboard at startup. Not something that is generally fixable without getting the hashboard on a test fixture and tracking down the issue. As mikeywith said, your best option is probably to try to just run with 2 hashboards each. If you can find a repair shop reasonably close you could consider sending them to get repaired, but by the time you pay shipping both ways and repair of 2 hashboards it would probably be > $500. Sending them back to Bitmain is not a good option in my opinion. I RMAed a S17pro under warranty to Bitmain's repair facility in California in May and still don't have it back.
As for the 3rd one, it doesn't see any chips on bootup from any hashboard. Not likely that all 3 hashboards decided to die at the same time. So, like mikeywith suggested, you should see if your host will swap a PSU to see if it runs with a good one. If that doesn't do it, you might see if they'll swap the control board out.
As for the 3rd one, it doesn't see any chips on bootup from any hashboard. Not likely that all 3 hashboards decided to die at the same time. So, like mikeywith suggested, you should see if your host will swap a PSU to see if it runs with a good one. If that doesn't do it, you might see if they'll swap the control board out.
The miners are located in Eastern Canada. Do you know of any repair sites in that part of the world?
If you want to sell any of your dead gear instead of watching it do nothing, shoot me a PM. Shipping might be too expensive to make it worth it, but maybe not.
Shipping from where I live to the U.S will sure cost a ton of money, the same thing to China, it's why I throw away most of the gears that die on me, but depending on your offer we might work it out especially if you only need the hash boards and not whole miners.
I'll confirm what do I have left untouched and send you a PM accordingly, I know I have hash boards of these models (S17 pro, S17, T17, T17e, S17+) I just need to confirm the numbers.
I use a soldering iron set at 315 deg C to remove solder from chips. As long as you don't let the chip get too hot for too long, it won't get damaged. The key is time + temperature. Most components and the PCB have materials that will start to break down above 150 to 200 degC. Both have specs for how long it can safely be above a certain temperature so they can be reflow soldered in a reflow oven.
As for removing solder from the board before installing a new chip, I do that because I find it very difficult to place the chip when there is solder on both the board and the chip. Since the solder on the board and the chip create rounded bumps, the bumps on the chip nearly always will fall off the bumps on the board.
As for removing solder from the board before installing a new chip, I do that because I find it very difficult to place the chip when there is solder on both the board and the chip. Since the solder on the board and the chip create rounded bumps, the bumps on the chip nearly always will fall off the bumps on the board.
Every day I spend up to 10 hours on the same hash board and new problems are constantly born, problem Chain 36 after a while an error appears chine 21 then chine 6 then Asic 0 and so constantly, a lot of trouble for a beginner, and those from Zeusbtc will not really cooperate,
Every chip I want to glue, I zoom in ten times to see if everything is in place and again I can't set it up nicely, and I'm also interested in whether you test the desoldering plate right while it's warm or it has to cool down really well.
I ordered all the equipment from Zusbtc https://www.zeusbtc.com/.
Can the solder be removed from the chip with a soldering iron, how safe is it for the chip, and is it wise to clean all the solder from the board before installing a new chip?
Every chip I want to glue, I zoom in ten times to see if everything is in place and again I can't set it up nicely, and I'm also interested in whether you test the desoldering plate right while it's warm or it has to cool down really well.
I ordered all the equipment from Zusbtc https://www.zeusbtc.com/.
Can the solder be removed from the chip with a soldering iron, how safe is it for the chip, and is it wise to clean all the solder from the board before installing a new chip?
I have 2 units that are sometimes working, sometimes not. S17 Pro and S17+. One has dead hashboard (exactly one loose heatsink) while all 5 other hashboards sometimes work. Where are you from and would you try to repair them or want to buy 'em out?
I'm in the northeast USA.
I'd consider buying them, but if they are partially working it may be better for you to limp along with them while profitability is as high as it is now. Guess that depends on how often the 5 sometimes working hashboards go down.
I have 2 units that are sometimes working, sometimes not. S17 Pro and S17+. One has dead hashboard (exactly one loose heatsink) while all 5 other hashboards sometimes work. Where are you from and would you try to repair them or want to buy 'em out?
I had someone else fix them for me after that, and that person is no longer available, so all I can do is watch those gears sit there do nothing.
If you want to sell any of your dead gear instead of watching it do nothing, shoot me a PM. Shipping might be too expensive to make it worth it, but maybe not.
Not sure how commercial places are making money repairing these. Hmtech charges $40 diagnosis + $150/hashboard for "basic" repair, $300/hashboard for "advanced" repair. I'm sure their techs are way more skilled than me, but I wonder if they would repair the board from my last post for $300 or if they'd just say it's not repairable. It's possible it could need $100 worth of replacement chips.
So far, every board I've fixed has taken more than 8 hours of work. The S17+ that I repaired took ~24 hours of work, although that was the first S17+ for me so there was some learning curve on that one.
I also found on the S17+ that chips will come up with the heatsink when trying to just remove the heatsink. So just pulling heatsinks to get access to repair other chips can cause other issues.
Started working on another S17+, this one is a real mess. One hashboard had 9 heatsinks fall off, some with chips still attached.
I had the same issue with my S17+, these gears are terrible compared to the S17 pro, they are less terrible than T17/T17e but still, the failure rate on my S17+ is 50% easily, and most of the heatsink fell along with the chips unlike the T17s, I also noticed this on the S17, I wish I had the skills, time and tools to fix these chips like you and the other folks, I had some success with the S9s chips but my overall performance was very poor, I had someone else fix them for me after that, and that person is no longer available, so all I can do is watch those gears sit there do nothing.
I use a heatgun set at 315 degrees C set at low airflow to remove/attach heatsinks and chips.
Attaching heatsinks on S17 boards is pretty tricky. For S17 and S17 pro, I've been removing most residual solder from the heatsink and adding what I think is the correct amount of solder to the top of the ASIC. I put some tacky flux on the top of the chip, then heat the heatsink with my heatgun for ~20 seconds and set it down on the chip. There is then a small window of time where you can adjust the placement of the heatsink. If you are not quick enough, the solder holding the chip to the board can melt and then you can shift the chip.
On the S17+, that technique didn't work for chips with the smaller heatsinks. So on those, I prepare the chip and heatsink the same way, but then just place the heatsink on the chip and heat it directly until the solder flows.
For attaching chips, I remove the solder from the board with solder wick, apply tacky flux to the board and place the chip in position, then apply heat for ~45 seconds. For new chips, I use a stencil to apply solder paste to the chip and melt the solder before placing it on the board. Nearly every time I do this, all connections are not made, so I add solder paste with a small syringe to the edge of the chip, reflow, add more flux, reflow again, and clean up any excess solder with an exacto knife while the solder is still liquid. Pretty tedious process.
Flux I use: https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=310003
solder paste I use: https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=470006
solder wick: https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=640002
Heat gun I use: https://www.masterappliance.com/proheat-1500-lcd-programmable-professional-heat-gun-kit/
Started working on another S17+, this one is a real mess. One hashboard had 9 heatsinks fall off, some with chips still attached.
The heatsinks that fell off look like they came off with the film from the top of the chip. Without the film on the chip, it is impossible to get solder to flow evenly on the top of the chip, so impossible to get a good contact with the heatsink. I saw the same issue on some chips on another S17+. Looks like a manufacturing issue with the chip packages. Or maybe it just breaks down if it gets too hot for too long.
To save the chips, I'd have to use a thermally conductive adhesive instead of solder to attach the heatsinks. Not too excited about that idea. A lot of the chips got hot enough to melt the solder holding them to the board and slid down towards the bottom of the miner. Pretty sure some/most of them would be toast anyway so might just replace them all.
Pretty sure this board is going in the "maybe later" pile.
These chips would normally be covered in solder, or would be an amber color if a heatsink was never attached.
Most of the film from the chip is still stuck to the heatsink.
Attaching heatsinks on S17 boards is pretty tricky. For S17 and S17 pro, I've been removing most residual solder from the heatsink and adding what I think is the correct amount of solder to the top of the ASIC. I put some tacky flux on the top of the chip, then heat the heatsink with my heatgun for ~20 seconds and set it down on the chip. There is then a small window of time where you can adjust the placement of the heatsink. If you are not quick enough, the solder holding the chip to the board can melt and then you can shift the chip.
On the S17+, that technique didn't work for chips with the smaller heatsinks. So on those, I prepare the chip and heatsink the same way, but then just place the heatsink on the chip and heat it directly until the solder flows.
For attaching chips, I remove the solder from the board with solder wick, apply tacky flux to the board and place the chip in position, then apply heat for ~45 seconds. For new chips, I use a stencil to apply solder paste to the chip and melt the solder before placing it on the board. Nearly every time I do this, all connections are not made, so I add solder paste with a small syringe to the edge of the chip, reflow, add more flux, reflow again, and clean up any excess solder with an exacto knife while the solder is still liquid. Pretty tedious process.
Flux I use: https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=310003
solder paste I use: https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=470006
solder wick: https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=640002
Heat gun I use: https://www.masterappliance.com/proheat-1500-lcd-programmable-professional-heat-gun-kit/
Started working on another S17+, this one is a real mess. One hashboard had 9 heatsinks fall off, some with chips still attached.
The heatsinks that fell off look like they came off with the film from the top of the chip. Without the film on the chip, it is impossible to get solder to flow evenly on the top of the chip, so impossible to get a good contact with the heatsink. I saw the same issue on some chips on another S17+. Looks like a manufacturing issue with the chip packages. Or maybe it just breaks down if it gets too hot for too long.
To save the chips, I'd have to use a thermally conductive adhesive instead of solder to attach the heatsinks. Not too excited about that idea. A lot of the chips got hot enough to melt the solder holding them to the board and slid down towards the bottom of the miner. Pretty sure some/most of them would be toast anyway so might just replace them all.
Pretty sure this board is going in the "maybe later" pile.
These chips would normally be covered in solder, or would be an amber color if a heatsink was never attached.
Most of the film from the chip is still stuck to the heatsink.
Well, I'm a beginner in that, today I successfully replaced my first chip, I replaced it after a few attempts, chip No. 01 after that it gave an error on chip 34, I still haven't been able to solve it, can you tell me how to glue a refrigerator for chip and what temperature do you use then and what when should you glue the chip to the hash board.
When it shows Asic 0, I first control the first chip, and then the last. I look at which test point the parameters are not good and after that I start with the control of the chip, first I take off the cooler and check if there are soldering balls then I try to reattach the chip at a temperature of 400 degrees Celsius, if that doesn't help I take off the chip and first try to I put it back again because I clean it nicely, if it doesn't help you either, then I mount a new chip, after that I measure the resistance, if everything is OK, then I go to test and check the values at the checkpoints again.
Has anyone completed the BItmain course that wants to help a little.
When it shows Asic 0, I first control the first chip, and then the last. I look at which test point the parameters are not good and after that I start with the control of the chip, first I take off the cooler and check if there are soldering balls then I try to reattach the chip at a temperature of 400 degrees Celsius, if that doesn't help I take off the chip and first try to I put it back again because I clean it nicely, if it doesn't help you either, then I mount a new chip, after that I measure the resistance, if everything is OK, then I go to test and check the values at the checkpoints again.
Has anyone completed the BItmain course that wants to help a little.
Yes, so far I've repaired 3 S17 hashboards and one S17+ hashboard. Most were reporting 0 Asics at some point. I'd say more issues cause 0 asics than some number fewer than the total asics.
To solve it, you need to trace the signals through the board to try to locate the spot where they go bad. The repair manuals on Zuesbtc are a good place to start. It's not easy though, both the locating of issues and then the techniques to remove/replace heatskins and chips. I'm an Electrical Engineer with >25 years experience and it took me a month of nights and weekends to decode the manuals/reverse engineer the hashboards to get to the point where I could repair one. I'm sure it would have been a lot easier to just take the Bitmain repair course, but I guess I'm just a glutton for punishment...
To solve it, you need to trace the signals through the board to try to locate the spot where they go bad. The repair manuals on Zuesbtc are a good place to start. It's not easy though, both the locating of issues and then the techniques to remove/replace heatskins and chips. I'm an Electrical Engineer with >25 years experience and it took me a month of nights and weekends to decode the manuals/reverse engineer the hashboards to get to the point where I could repair one. I'm sure it would have been a lot easier to just take the Bitmain repair course, but I guess I'm just a glutton for punishment...
did you manage to fix a board, do you have problems with the Asic 0 error that occurs a lot with me and I can't solve it
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