Topic: The Habanero - 650GH/s - OOS - page 46. (Read 96043 times)

Have you already bought your PSUs?  There is a member sidehack who has developed three Dell 750 PSUs working in series with only one control supplying ~2200W of power. 

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.5971378

For the other small frys that are following along this is what I have committed to so far:

2 Habaneros
2 Gigampz break out boards
4 Apevia 6PIN PCI-E Y splitters
4 sets of Klondike_bar 30CM 16AWG bare end to 6PIN PCI-E cables
2 HP DPS-800GBA

Electricity is from a couple of 30amp 240v US circuits.

Cooling is still TBD.

Controller will be a RASPI long term. A windows box till the RASPI software is in place.

If this works well for me I'd like to scale up to my goal of ~10 TH. (So I guess 17 of these cards. I have some shelves in the basement I am stacking this all on. So 3 or 4 of these per shelf.) I'll also liquidate all of my Antminers, BLF based equipment, Drillbit cards, etc.

This should be one of the more power efficient environments available on the market today... so everyone that builds this way should be able to keep this equipment in production much longer than those running things such as Antminers.

Comments are welcome. Especially if I am screwing something up :-)

Any of the server PSU above 750W will work fine.  The thing is, for instance, an 800W PSU *should* remain a bit more efficient a bit longer as it blows past its rated output (which they surely will) and it approaches 1kw output.  This is because by the time you get to 1kw with a 750W PSU you've WAY over committed it.  On the other hand if it's already a 800W unit you've spent less space between its rated top end and the place where you're shipping the ever living SH!T out of it.  You probably by now know whether or not I've had a favorable experience with a particular board member who sells a particular PSU breakout board and you might think I'm going to mention that again now .... but I'm not.  You might also think that I surely must be a shill for that particular PSU *or* breakout vendor .... but I'm not.  It turns out I have 9.6kw of DPS 800 just waiting to power something.  Heck .... I might even have to pick up 12 Habanero boards to test out that 9.6kw and my mineral oil/igloo cooler with frankensteined window A/C unit cooling methodology (which will surely be fun).  In any case my experience has been the server PSUs are the cheapest, most reliable, brain dead simplest way to power something up to 125% of said PSUs rated power output. Keep in mind though that due to the noise if you use these things in your home "man cave" your mate might send you *AND* your miners to live in the back yard due to the noise  .... ask me, I know.  Oh yea, and one more thing, I'm on the jerry-rigging side (having seen the Dead's last show at the Pyramid in Memphis a couple of shows B4 Jerry passed).  Though, to be fair, my wife told me the proper term is jury-rigging so I'll use that term around her.

H@shKraker

Yeah, that should work fine, I'm using server power supplies on a few boards here and they perform flawlessly.

Aligning myself completely behind H@shKraker's cooling philosophy, and having attended more than one Grateful Dead concert, I would like to approve of the expression "jerry-rig", provided it is understood, correctly, as a derivative of jury-rig.

As for Peppermining's business, well, let's hope it goes poof in a flash. Hyenas.

Looking at using this solution to power the boards:

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=622783.new

Any thoughts?

Those boards. No way around it

Hawt as F**k

Sidehack,

I drop boiling wort in a 3/8 in copper tube to 72F in 20 feet of counterflow (the outer tube is 5/8").  The glycol just recirculates through the cooler where the evap rad is.  In THIS instance it might be a bit better to dispense with the water blocks all together and just put the cards in the same cooler as the evap coil in a path of mineral oil.  One could use some of those Avalon delta fans to push the oil through the evap radiator (thus providing a circulation effect).  I bet in a large igloo cooler you could successfully do 10 cards before the mineral oil got to 80F.

H@shKraker

Anyone try the XSPC coolers?
They offer a full range of DIY components, and sell complete kits also.
Check out the XSPC Raystorm 750 EX360 here for $169.99:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21236/ex-wat-271/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310

You get a neat looking copper cooling block, a separate pump, fluid reservoir and a triple fan radiator.
And it seems to get great reviews beating out the h80i/h100i.

I specifically use the term "jerryrig" because my dad is Jerry, and I have a great respect for his ability to haphazardly rig things together better than most people can make it work the official way.

But in general, yeah you're right.

Also, if I'm thinking right, using an AC to cool something... Say a typical cheap window unit pushing 5000BTU/hr. That corresponds to 5.275MJ moved in 3600 seconds, so a net power transfer of 1465W. That'd be enough for two of these boards cooled indefinitely in closed-loop, but to go past that would require help. I could be wrong about the physics, anyone want to toss in?

And ... a respectably large volume of chilled glycol helps.

H@shKraker

Very interesting - I'll have to try this.

Unfortunately I don't have the means to test the board level power consumption. My wife has even "tidied" the damn kill-a-watt.

I hope nobody thinks I'm an ass for pointing this out but it's actually "jury-rig" not "jerry-rig". It's a sailing term and I for some unknown reason like letting people know this.

https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/132868/jury-rigged-or-jerry-rigged


Edit: That's a good looking board!

I'm pretty sure the h100i outperforms the h110

Nice color.

I guess that now it will be a rush to sell them asap not to have the sale of the chips reversed by the trustee next week?

Hey guys, been a busy week for us, both Mr. Teal and I where at the assembly house and are just recovering.. but I did a small post on the site with some pics! cheers

https://peppermining.com/small-update/

Ok folks …. If we’re talking FrankenCooling it is now time for me to pull out my rather extensive knowledge related to HERM beer brewing and associated thermal management during wort transport to the fermenter.  I know this sounds a bit off topic BUT bear with me and I think you’ll see where I’m headed (which might be to the fridge for a cold one).  My all electric home brewer is a 15 gallon HERM with a 17 Gallon conical fermenter all made form stainless steel kegs.  I know, this by itself is WAY cool but there’s one thing that one MUST pay attention to and that is heat dissipation when one transfers the hot wort from the boil cycle to the sterile fermentation vessel.  The thing one MUS do is quickly drop the hot wort from boiling to roughly 70F in order to initiate what is called “cold break” *AND* to get the wort to a temp where it can be inoculated with yeast so beer making can commence.  To do this ones transfers the hot wort through a counter flow chiller where the hot wort is headed toward the fermenter and in an outer tube the chilled liquid passes the other direction in an effort to shed the heat from the inner tube to the outer liquid.  That clod liquid, at least in my case, is chilled glycol.  How does one DIY chill glycol you ask …. Well …. One frankensteins a window AC unit, a cooler and the volume of glycol so that one has a pool of WAY chilled glycol.  You might also be asking how one DIYs a pool of chilled glycol for this purpose …. Well …. One follows these instructions here -> https://byo.com/brown-ale/item/1877-build-your-own-glycol-fermenter under the section named “Glycol Chiller”.  Once this is complet one heads over to frozencpu.com and picks up the LGA1155 water blocks, connects “cool in” paths to one side of the block and “hot out” paths to the other side of the block and viola….. even better than closed loop Corsair chilling.  Please be sure that when you modify the window A/C unit you leave enough of the A/C unit to still fit into a window so you can exhaust the heat front the Glycol to the out of doors.  My bet is one can dissipate a TON of heat energy across multiple Habanero boards this way.  Heck, I know I can drop 15 gallons of hot wort from boiling to 71F in 22 feet of counter flow.

H@shKraker

Looking forward to pictures of your JerryRig!

I haven't done sufficient testing with different coolers, but my gut and some experience tells me that it is better to go the double radiator route since they don't cost much more than a single wide radiator.
Another note is that it is measurably better to have the fans pulling air through the radiator as opposed to pushing it through, just swapping the direction can drop temps by a couple degrees.

Also, the rated CFM on a fan can be deceptive, even with really good brands. Take a look at these Delta ones.
http://www.delta-americas.com/products/FanUploads/Specification/QFR1212GHE-SP01%28REV01%29.pdf
http://www.delta-america.com/Products/FANUploads/Specification/AFB1212GHE-CF00%28REV00%29.pdf

The first one has a little bit higher pressure and lower CFM ratings than the second one. If you look at the graphs towards the end though, you'll see the second fan has a huge drop in airflow once you get past 0.45 inches of water on the graph, while the first one is nice and linear. Into a radiator, the first fan would probably work much better even though it's 210CFM instead of 241CFM.


I can say I really like the Nepton 280L. I really hate the Antec Kuhler H20 1250.

I just got a car radiator and 12V fan in from eBay, total about $75, that is going on a 3KW dummy load. Should be twice the cooling I need. Just saying, jerryrig is probably not a bad idea if you're looking to go big. As for PSU, if these'll work fine with my D750 setups, it's around $90/KW including wiring.